5902, xk01, dead 2006 envoy battery

2006 GMC Envoy XL Denali

Viper 5902 Alarm/Remote Start using XK01 (AMDL) interface via D2D interface.

I am turning to the board after 2 experts installer failed to resolve my problem of a dead vehicle battery after being parked for 10 or so hours. This occurs without regard if the system is armed or disarmed.

I had a reputable dealer specializing in alarms install the system. It worked great, alarm, remote start, everything. There was an occasional message on the remote that a door was open while arming, really wasn’t the case, doors were all closed. Also, when I remote started the vehicle, got in, inserted and turned the key, and pressed the brake, the remote start did disable but the door locks would pop open & close and I would hear the door chimes. All about 10 seconds after pressing the brake.

A week later, I parked in the garage for 10 hrs, and in the morning the vehicle battery was dead. Assuming the battery was weak due to age, I replaced it, charged it and forgot about it. All was good for about 3 days when it occurred again and again. From there I would put a charger on it every night to be assured it would start and bought a 20 ft set of jumper cables.

I took the car back to the original installer, different tech, explaining the problem. He said he suspected a bad battery because it was only at 30% charge. I told them it is a new battery and I just charged it that morning. The car sat 9 hours and I came here directly from work. They went ahead and checked the system out. They found the current draw to be normal but notice that for some reason it would jump up to 1 amp. They rewired some lines and finally replaced the Viper 5902 and the XK01 bypass. This draw dropped to within an acceptable range of 60 ma.

Three days later, the same thing. I returned to the installer and had them remove the 5902, XK01 and pulled all the fuses. Took it to a GM dealer and validated there was no weird parasitic current draw due to a rouge module, all checked out OK from battery to alternator.

Yesterday I decided to try and fix it myself and spent 3 hours creating the following wiring connection chart. I have great electronics and auto experience and believe I can handle repairs if given some directions where to look for the problem. I have some ideas formulated after pouring through the hundreds of posts at this forum but would appreciate ANY help, advise or insight.

H1 12 Pin VIPER MAIN HarnessVehicle Harness

H1/1 RED / White (-) 200MA Trunk Release Out N/A

H1/2 Red (+) 12V Constant Red

H1/3 Brown (+) Siren Out Siren

H1/4 WHITE/ Brown Parking Light Isolation N/A

H1/5 Black (-) Chassis Ground Body Steel

H1/6 Violet (+) Door Trigger Input N/A

H1/7 Blue (-) Trunk Pin/Instant Trigger Input (N/C or N/O) N/A

H1/8 Green (-) Door Trigger Input (N/C or N/O) N/A

H1/9 BLACK/ White (-) 200ma Dome Light Supervision Output N/A

H1/10 WHITE/ Blue (-) Remote Start N/A

H1/11 White Parking Light Output Brown

H1/12 Orange (-) 500ma Ground-When-Armed Output (GWA) N/A

H2 18 PIN Harness

H2/1 Lt. GREEN/ Blk (-) 200ma OEM Alarm Factory DISARM Output N/A

H2/2 ORANGE / Blk (-) 200ma Aux 4 Output N/A

H2/3 GREEN / WHITE (-) 200ma OEM Factory ARM Output N/A

H2/4 Violet/Blk (-) 200ma Aux 2 Output N/A

H2/5 WHITE/ Blk (-) 200ma Aux 3 Output N/A

H2/6 WHITE/ Violet (-) 200ma Aux 1 Output N/A

H2/7 Gray/Blk (-) Diesel Wait-to-Start Input N/A

H2/8 BROWN / Blk (-) 200ma Factory Horn Honk Output N/A

H2/9 Violet/White Tachometer Input N/A

H2/10 Dark Blue (-) 200ma Status Output N/A

H2/11 Pink/White (-) 200ma Flex Relay Control Output N/A

H2/12 Orange (-) 200ma Accessory Output 86 of relay

H2/13 Purple (-) 200ma Starter Output N/A

H2/14 Pink (-) 200ma Ignition 1 Output N/A

H2/15 Grey (-) 200ma Hood Pin Input (N/C or N/O) Hood Switch

H2/16 Blue/White (-) 200ma 2nd Status/Read Defogger Output N/A

H2/17 Brown (+) Brake Shutdown Input White

H2/18 BLACK/ White (-) Neutral Safety Input (Gnd for auto trans) Body Steel

H3 REMOTE START Harness 18 Pin

H3/1 Pink (+) Ignition 1 Input/Output Pink

H3/2 RED / White (+) Fused 30amp Ignition 2/Flex Relay Red

H3/3 Orange (+) Accessory Output Orange

H3/4 Violet (+) Starter Output (Car Side of the Starter Kill) N/A

H3/5 Green (+) Starter Input N/A

H3/6 Red (+) Ignition 1 Fused 30amp Input Red

H3/7 Pink/White (+) Ignition 2 /Flex relay output White

H3/8 Pink/Blk (+) Flex Relay Input 87a side of flex relay N/A

H3/9 RED / Blk (+) Accessory/Starter Input Fused 30 amp RED / White

H3/10 N/C

XK01 BYPASS Module (Program to Type 1)

1 Brown (-) Ground While Running (GWR) Status Input N/A

2 Green (-) Lock Input N/A

3 Blue (-) Unlock Input N/A

4 Violet/White (-) Door Trigger Output N/A

5 Violet Data Violet

6 Pink/White (-) Aux 2 Output N/A

7 Pink (-) Aux 1 Input (To dome light for rear door detection) N/A

8 Orange (-) Disarm Input N/A

9 Red (+) 12 Volt Input N/A

10 Black (-) Chassis Ground N/A

Relay. Not sure what is does. Maybe is accessory shutdown after remote start timeout so radio and other acc shuts off..

*Pin 85 – Red +12VDC (vehicle harness)

*Pin 86 – H2/12 Orange

*Pin 87 – Jumper to 85

*Pin 30 – Brown (vehicle harness)

Notes:

All grounds tied together and then connected to bolt on body.

Siren + H1/5 + H2/18

The vehicle does have anti-grind and it is functional.  Learned this when my son tried to start the car when it was already running.  The Remote Start is handled by the XK01 and thus H3/4 Vilot and H3/5 Green are not connected nor is the yellow wire in the harness is cut to facilitate the relay you stated is wired incorrectly.  The relay energizes when H2/12 orange (200ma accessory output) from the Viper is active.  This sends 12vdc to the brown wire on the vehicle iginition harness.  I should look-up what this wire goes to.  I was also surprised to see the relay but assumed it was to kill the accessories after the remote start times out, simulating a door opening.  I need to check if the relay is energized all the time or just after remote start time out.

And with respect, I am not good at this.  That is why I am here asking for advise because the installers can't get it right and $500 later the viper is sitting here next to me and not in the SUV. 

Looks like that extra relay is to power the Brown ACC2 wire at the ignition switch harness.   While Bulldog does not list an ACC2, Audiovox does.  The wiring looks correct for that application. 

Shouldn't H3/4 Violet go to the Yellow starter wire at the ignition switch harness?  If H3/5 Green is not used, then no starter kill and no cut in the Envoys' Yellow starter wire.

Verify all grounds are very solid.  Everything else looks OK.  ( Other than the XK01...  I prefer the iDatalink modules and the reliability of W2W wiring.)

That is a very good question why does it even remote start if H3/4 Violet is not connected to the Envoy starter wire.  Iginition kill is not necessary since the OEM alarm cuts fuel supply and prevents the SUV from starting.  This is done via the XK01 module.  One of the options on the table is to punt the XK01 and use the iDatalink module.  Do you happen to know which is the correct one for 2006 GMC Envoy XL Denali? Thanks for your reply.

Another thought...
The Viper and the XK01 were already swapped out but how about the extra ACC2 relay?  If that relay was bad it could
be supplying the ACC2 Brown wire with +12v continuously, instead of only during remote start engine run time.  The brown
ACC2 wire is somewhat optional - only the ACC circuits for heating and cooling are necessary during remote start.  There
should be a fuse in the relays' Pin 85 / Pin 87 wire going to the Red +12v constant...

There are several iDatalink modules that duplicate the functions of the XK01 / AMDL module.  Here is a link to the
iDatalink site :  https://www.idatalink.com/helpdesk/  Look up you car - any of the Solo Series in the orange
box ( ADS ALSL GM, ADS DLSL GM or ADS DLSL GM1 )  will work - and download the install guide for complete info.
They all ( Solo Series ) come pre-loaded with the correct firmware but should be connected in the W2W mode
( Mating the Viper and bypass module together on the work bench in W2W mode is only about 9 wire connections.)  As
noted, the iDatalink modules will not output a Tach signal if your Envoy has a V-8 engine.

kreg357 wrote:

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Another thought...
The Viper and the XK01 were already swapped out but how about the extra ACC2 relay?  If that relay was bad it could be supplying the ACC2 Brown wire with +12v continuously, instead of only during remote start engine run time.  The brown ACC2 wire is somewhat optional - only the ACC circuits for heating and cooling are necessary during remote start.  There should be a fuse in the relays' Pin 85 / Pin 87 wire going to the Red +12v constant...

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Doubtful that the XK01 is the problem.  I would check that extra relay for proper operation or temporarily disconnect it.

No additional aftermarket devices.  You suggested to connect the starter wires?  Being connect H3/4 to Envoy Yellow iginition?  And swap the relay and test for proper operation.

I agree with starting my own draw test.  Already built the set up and have a Fluke meter with 10 amp capacity.

Thanks for your suggestions. 

To clarify.  H1/12 Orange is GWA and is not connected.  I wish it was then it would be an easy fix.

Actually H2/12 Orange is (-) 200ma Accessory Output and that is connected to the relay.

Following on one idea that the BCM and other modules are still alive because the XK01 is preventing them from sleeping, is there any merit to connect the XK01 Brown GWR to H2/10 Blue (-) 200ma Status Output to put the XK01 to sleep when the alarm is active.  Some posters suggest this is necessary/helpful even though the 5902 and XK01 are connected via the 4 pin DEI link cable?

ronhapanowicz@a wrote:

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So far nobody has any ideas what is killing the battery.

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I confirmed the relay is used for remote start.  Provides power to the ACC 2 wire as required for remote start.  Relay is not stuck or always active.

Now off to connecting a amp meter and wait and watch for voltage spikes.