4 new lock actuators in a ’98 volvo
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=127215
Printed Date: May 19, 2024 at 8:10 AM
Topic: 4 new lock actuators in a ’98 volvo
Posted By: blankenship
Subject: 4 new lock actuators in a ’98 volvo
Date Posted: May 03, 2011 at 9:34 PM
I own a '98 Volvo V70 4-door and the locks are going out. You can read more about the diagnosis https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?156449-door-LOCKS-what-the-heck-is-going-on, but I've been told I need to replace all 4 lock actuators with the OEM units (that cost $135 each) (!).
I'd love to avoid spending that kind of cash, and in my search came across https://www.volvo-forums.com/t17967-cheap-diy-repairs.htm which leads me to believe there are other options with aftermarket units. The guy in that post used some "Direct" units for his 2-door car, so the install is different (plus, I can't make sense of the photos he provided).
Can anybody advise on what I should do?
My current guess is to buy a setup like THIS ONE (that includes a couple 5-wire units) on eBay, and that I'll also need to install some sort of relay (like a DEI 451M (?)). If that's the case, I could do this all myself for $40, instead of spending $540.
Would really appreciate some thoughts and/or resources...
Replies:
Posted By: blankenship
Date Posted: May 03, 2011 at 10:48 PM
That eBay link was suppossed to go https://cgi./524K-Power-Door-Lock-Kit-4-Door-524N-524F-NEW-/250759205301
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: May 04, 2011 at 1:34 AM
You need to change all of the locks. The 5 wires worry me because the factory wiring may be different I suggest using a dedicated timer relay NOT a 451 with them
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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: blankenship
Date Posted: May 04, 2011 at 8:28 AM
So maybe the thing to do is use (4) of the 524N's so they are all small and slim, and are just 2-wire reversing polarity motors?
The Volvo Forum poster said (in a different post) that he never tested to see, but it could be that the stock actuators are indeed already a reverse polarity setup. So could be that I don't need a relay? Anybody know?
Is there a reason to use a dedidicated timer relay rather than the 451M with the 524N's? Will I need (1), (4), or none of each?
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: May 04, 2011 at 8:47 AM
On aftermarket actuators, if you use 5 wires, they are a motor and a switch. Depending on whether up or down, one of the "trigger" wires s ALWAYS grounded, therefore your control relay is always engaged = flat battery in 10 hours or less, thus use a timer.
One 5 wire motor used will need the timer relay. Spal and MES* both sell kits with timer relays and spurs for negative "triggering" such as from an alarm. They also sell the timer relays separately.
So yes you could use 4 x 2 wire + a 451, no problems assuming the factory triggering is neg,(I haven't checked) or you have an AFTERMARKET alarm. Don't forget the tailgate/trunk lid.
DON'T use a 5 wire in each front door as masters, just the two. Unless you mount both perfectly, you will find the doors unlock as soon as you lock one of them.
Size doesn't matter, all Euro door locks have the same mounting.
*MES, they possibly make the DEI units are the best quality.
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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: May 04, 2011 at 8:53 AM
OK, easier than I thought you CAN use the factory looms, you shouldn't need ANY relays, assuming you have 5 wires in each front door, one will be a constant ground, two will go to ground, either when the motor is "up" or "down"; these are the "trigger" wires. The last 2, will be at ground till you lock the car then one of them will show 12v+; vice versa when you unlock. These are the motor wires.
The back doors will just have the last 2 (the motor) wires).
-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: blankenship
Date Posted: May 04, 2011 at 5:03 PM
howie ll wrote:
OK, easier than I thought you CAN use the factory looms, you shouldn't need ANY relays
Hey Howie- Does this mean you did some checking after your 6:47 post and found that these Volvo's do have a reverse polarity setup so I don't need relays? I've yet to disassemble a door and look...and I don't have a wiring diagram yet,  so I have no idea how many wire there are in the front doors...
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: May 04, 2011 at 5:07 PM
If by reverse polarity you mean the motor wires, no. The triggers are negative. All the actual motor wires are reverse polarity, at least all permanent magnet motors are whether it's a cordless drill, an electric window motor or a door lock.
I think you're confused about the wiring. Get some info first then go and re-read my previous post. I'm already thinking don't do this yourself.
-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: blankenship
Date Posted: May 04, 2011 at 11:45 PM
Ye of little faith.
I'll pop the door panel off soon and do some research.
I'm capable, I've just never done this sorta thing before.
Thanks, Howie...hope you'll check back in with me when I've got an update.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: May 05, 2011 at 4:04 AM
Sure but your comments on polarity reversal worry me! Just open the driver's door panel, look at the motor wiring, tell me what you see and the colours, then we will take it from there.
It's not little faith its just don't jump to conclusions! If there are 5 wires to each front door and 2 to each back, its easier than you think!
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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: blankenship
Date Posted: May 18, 2011 at 7:22 PM
Hey there-
Finally got a non-rainy afternoon free and took off the Volvo driver door panel to see what we're dealin' with.
The SWITCH that leads to the door locks is pictured (first photo), as well as the driver's door motor (second photo).
The driver's door lock has two groups of wires—
The first is a 3-wire grouping with Yellow, Blue/Brown, Purple. (These wires are a larger gauge than the others).
The second is a 4-wire grouping with Grey / YELLOW, Grey/Red, Black, and BLACK/ White.
Appreciate any light you can shed with this new info!
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: May 24, 2011 at 2:39 AM
I can't help you any more, you have to test the wires with a DMM, see what they are doing when you lock and unlock the doors
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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
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