blocking diode equal rectifier diode?

Hey all,

Trying to wire my 520t back up battery but my alarm only has one (-) instant trigger input and my hood pin is connected to this trigger input already.

After hooking up the 520t and hooking the 520t's blue (-) trigger output to the same input as my hood pin I noticed when disconnecting the main battery the 520t wouldn't trigger my alarm.

After research I noticed that if you wire two (-)trigger outputs to one (-) instant trigger input on an alarm you will need to isolate the trigger outputs using "blocking diodes".

Well I googled blocking diodes and nothing came up.

So here I am.

Is a rectifier diode the same as a blocking diode?

and would this one from radioshack work for what I am trying to do?


https://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productid=2062589

it's a mixed pack of rectifier diodes, but it says it will include a 1N4001. 1N4001 is the one I will need right?

Thanks

Yes, blocking diode - rectifier diode. The Radioshack diode should work perfect.

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Kevin Pierson

The general part number of the blocking diode you are looking for is 1N4001.  It is rated to 1 Amp and 50 V ( Peak Repetitive Reverse Voltage ) and the most common.  Also very common is the 1N4004, 1 Amp & 400V. They are usually stocked at RadioShack but also available "online"  for Qty 100 at $3.00.   Here is a link to the Spec Sheet for these diodes :  https://www.jameco.com/Jameco/Products/ProdDS/35975.pdf

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Soldering is fun!

Compared to a 1N4001, any 1N400x diode will do.
Get the cheapest, though 1N4004 or 4007 is probably the most common and also used for spike suppression (relay coils & inductive loads) - the IN4001 & 4002 having too low a PIV for that.

Yes to your post, then X 4 with KP, Kreg and Oldie.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Thanks fellas

I appreciate your help and input

So I have just learned that a 'rectifier' converts AC input to DC output. Does this mean that a rectifier diode with DC input, has the same DC output? I have some 6amp rectifier diodes that I was going to use in a r/s install. I had purchased this package to link my ATV's low beam to high beam so that low satys on when you switch to high. This is, like our vehicles, a DC setup. Its works fine and I see in this post that the rec. diode will work for the r/s application as well. Can anyone answer my question for me?  Thank You

Yes, DC in will get you DC out on a rectifier diode.

6-amp diodes are overkill for this application, but you can certainly use them. Anything 1-amp & over is fine.

If the diodes have white lines on them, the lines should face towards the pin sw on one & towards the 520t on the other.

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Good Enough Isn't!

Thanks, I just ordered some 1n4004's for the r/s. p.s. im not the original poster from may 2011, so he/she may not see the info you gave them after answering my question

ieetgluu wrote:

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Does this mean that a rectifier diode with DC input, has the same DC output?

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FYI - each diode has a "forward" (ie: conducting, current flowing) voltage drop of typically 0.6V depending on current and diode type.
[ Schottky diodes typically ~0.3V; common Silicon types 0.6V drop - though academic circles usually cite 0.7V - but all (voltage) drops increase with increasing current. EG - the generally antiquated & overpriced diode battery isolators often drop over 1.0V at rated load. ]

ieetgluu wrote:

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... to link my ATV's low beam to high beam so that low stays on when you switch to high...

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If they use relays, it probably just needs a 1N4004 (or 4001 etc) between the highbeam and lowbeam relay coils.

If they don't have relays, GET THEM!. But no modern car would use full-rated switches - relays are the norm (though they should stick to plain SPST! Or SPDT for its extra "control only" ability).
Besides, why suffer probably a 1V drop to the headlights when that diode drop to a relay coil's behavior is negligible.


But DO NOT RUN BOTH filaments in a high-low bulb simultaneously - they will fail and maybe explode.
If it's separate hi & lo beams, then fine. And that should work too for the "flash" function - ie, lo comes on with hi - but check to make sure (assuming it's illegal to have high beam without low).

No I was saying in the past I had bought the 6amp rec. diodes that I now have laying around to link high and low beams on my atv, or 4 wheeler, not my car. And yes the filaments are seperate- the low beam lights are body mounted, the high is handle bar mounted, totally seperate bulbs. but thank you.

as for legal or illegal use in cars, some vehicles, like my honda, use low and high together when highs are turned on. some vehicles, like my gmc, use low or high, either or, but not both at the same time. and both of these vehicles have seperate bulbs for each, not double filament bulbs.

Our laws may have changed for OEM vehicles like that...

But using the diode for the relays rather than the lights (power) stands.