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02 civic trunk pin switch connection

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=127347
Printed Date: May 21, 2022 at 7:46 AM


Topic: 02 civic trunk pin switch connection

Posted By: cpncpn
Subject: 02 civic trunk pin switch connection
Date Posted: May 15, 2011 at 4:27 PM

I just installed the alarm system for my 02 Civic EX 2DR. All went well except I don't know how to install the pin switch for the trunk. (The trunk has to be released using the button inside the car; it's not factory remote controlled trunk release)

Here is what I did: I tapped the signal (red cable from the green connector from driver side kick panel) to the alarm system (grey) so that it will trigger when the trunk is forced open? I checked with the voltmeter, trunk closed (+12V), trunk opened (-). I activated the AUX output from the alarm system already. But when I opened the trunk using the pull switch inside the car, the alarm did not go off.

My alarm is Crime guard 350i5. It has the AUX. output where the trunk release trigger can be connected to according to the diagram.

I'd appreciate any help from the experts.

Car: 2002 Honda Civic EX 2DR.
Alarm system: Crime guard 350i5



Replies:

Posted By: Mike M2
Date Posted: May 15, 2011 at 6:19 PM
I think you are very confused. The trunk trigger is to make the alarm sound, the AUX wire is to open the trunk remotely. 2 different things. You should connect the trunk trigger wire to the negative trigger wire on your alarm, which is blue....

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services




Posted By: syl20rochon
Date Posted: May 15, 2011 at 6:39 PM
If you want to monitor the trunk with the alarm, install a pin switch or there is a red (-) wire at the OEM alarm that is the OEM trunk pin.

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Sylvain Rochon
MECP security specialist
Tech support for remote starters
26 Years of experience counts
I'm here to help.




Posted By: cpncpn
Date Posted: May 15, 2011 at 7:01 PM
Ok I am more confused now. Let me see if I can get myself straight here.

1. For the door triggers, should I connect the Green from the alarm to BOTH the driver door trigger Green (-) and Passenger door trigger Light Green.Red (-)

2. For the trunk trigger, should I connect the BLUE from the alarm to the RED cable from the green connector (driver side kick panel)?

Thanks for your help guys, I am a total noob in this alarm thing.




Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: May 15, 2011 at 7:01 PM

In the trunk, is there a light that illuminates when you open the trunk?





Posted By: cpncpn
Date Posted: May 15, 2011 at 7:02 PM
i am an idiot wrote:

In the trunk, is there a light that illuminates when you open the trunk?




Yes that's the red cable.




Posted By: syl20rochon
Date Posted: May 15, 2011 at 7:10 PM
For door pins, do the following but isolate with diodes..

The factory alarm plug is a green plug above the drivers kick panel. The drivers door trigger is green, front passenger door trigger is lt. GREEN/ red, and the rear door trigger is GREEN / WHITE.

-------------
Sylvain Rochon
MECP security specialist
Tech support for remote starters
26 Years of experience counts
I'm here to help.




Posted By: cpncpn
Date Posted: May 15, 2011 at 7:57 PM
Here is what I just did and all the doors and the trunk worked:

1. For the door triggers, I connect the Green from the alarm to BOTH the driver door trigger Green (-) and Passenger door trigger Light Green.Red (-)

2. For the trunk trigger, I connected the BLUE from the alarm to the RED cable from the green connector (driver side kick panel)

Someone has mentioned using a diodes. Do I need them? So far all seems to work fine for me.

Thanks for all your help.




Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: May 15, 2011 at 8:39 PM
Is there a display on your dash that shows which door is open?  If so, notice that if you open either door, it will now illuminate both driver and passenger on that display.




Posted By: syl20rochon
Date Posted: May 15, 2011 at 8:45 PM
If the manufacturer has 2 different wires, there is a specific reason for doing so, you should isolate with diodes not to change the OEM settings.

-------------
Sylvain Rochon
MECP security specialist
Tech support for remote starters
26 Years of experience counts
I'm here to help.




Posted By: cpncpn
Date Posted: May 16, 2011 at 12:02 AM
syl20rochon wrote:

If the manufacturer has 2 different wires, there is a specific reason for doing so, you should isolate with diodes not to change the OEM settings.

Can you tell me or direct me to a drawing how to isolate doors with diodes? I prefer to do things in a proper way.




Posted By: cpncpn
Date Posted: May 16, 2011 at 12:31 AM
Is the drawing on the left applicable to my car door triggers?

https://www.the12volt.com/diodes/diodes.asp




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: May 16, 2011 at 4:49 AM
Actually on these Mr I is right
Look at your gauges.
With the ignition on you should have one warning light each for both trunk/hatch open and door(s) open.
remove the gauge cluster (very easy, 2 screws and pull out the binnacle, then either 2 or 4 screws to remove the cluster).
With a DMM see which two wires go to ground when either ANY door OR the trunk/hatch are opened.
Your green and blue wires go to each of these respectively, no problems with dome light delays and you won't need dome supervision
And look once the gauges are out how much room there is to loose the alarm up there.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: May 16, 2011 at 5:56 AM

posted_image





Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: May 16, 2011 at 6:01 AM
Not needed on this vehicle there's one instant on/off switched line for all doors and trunk to rear of instrument panel.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: May 16, 2011 at 6:02 AM
Sorry, I meant to say one each for doors and trunk/hatch.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: cpncpn
Date Posted: May 16, 2011 at 9:04 AM
howie ll wrote:

Not needed on this vehicle there's one instant on/off switched line for all doors and trunk to rear of instrument panel.


So I don't need the diodes, correct?
Thanks for all your help.




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: May 16, 2011 at 9:06 AM
Not on this vehicle

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: cpncpn
Date Posted: May 16, 2011 at 9:19 AM
OK. Thanks. One more connection I'd like to make to the dome light. The manual said I need a relay to do this. Where can I buy this? Or is it a DIY thing?




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: May 16, 2011 at 10:01 AM
You won't need it. Notice how when you close the door your dome light stays on for about one minute or until you lock it? That's built-in dome light supervision so it isn't needed

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: t&t tech
Date Posted: May 16, 2011 at 6:36 PM

Civicz of that generation, i usually pick up trunk and door contacts at the front of the fuse box, no diodes needed and no dome supervision, but that's RHD spec, so it may not apply to you.



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Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: May 17, 2011 at 3:21 AM
Civicz??? That apart I agree, as I've also pointed out, "Specifications may vary on different regions" and boy do they!
You're right about the fusebox, it's just that the last one of that vintage I did was an "R" type with full Mugen spec. and I couldn't even get at the fuse box for all the rubbish, I actually found it quicker to get behind the instrument panel

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.





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