problems, remote starter, 92 cherokee

Hi, installing the Vizion CM4200 S controller into a 1992 Jeep Cherokee, 4.0.

right now I have power wire, ground and tachometer connected to the module and am using a light to ground tester to see if the ignition/starter wires/parking lights are turning on when I use the remote to start it.

The only feedback from the computer thus far has been 3 lights, which supposedly indicate the tach source is no good, but then an additional 2 light after that indicating that "Manual Car Key is in the off position."

Any idea what that means? The dip switch is set for tach on the unit.

Thanks

You should connect all the necessary wires from the CM4200 to the correct wires in the Jeep first.  Then do the Tach Learn process.  Then try a remote start.

The Jeep is pretty straight forward and has no transponder immobilizer to worry about.  Here is a link to Bulldog Security for their wire guide.  https://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/vehiclewiringdiagrams.asp

It is much safer to locate and verify your wires using a Digital Multi Meter.  A standard test light draws too much current and can damage the cars computer circuits.

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Soldering is fun!

Let me add before I get back out there, that the outputs from the module make no sense. The starter wire goes straight into common on the relay out of the unit, and the coil on the relay has a red and a purple, purple apparently being ground and red (ignition) going to the module.

There are two wires coming out of the module to the relay - red and yellow, red being for ignition and yellow for starter. My assumption was that they are triggered at once but that the yellow would trigger the relay, which would open up a higher amp circuit to the starter.

Instead, the red ignition wire goes to one side of the relay coil from the module, and the other side of the coil has a strange connector on it (I assume ground).

The yellow output from the module goes into the common pole of the relay (?!) so how can it be an output? the other wire out of the relay is yellow with black so I assume its starter ground

From your CM4200 S description, I figured it was the Compustar CM4200 S re-labeled.

Is the unit you are installing anything like this? :  https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=399

The extra external relay is for starter kill / anti-grind and is optional.

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Soldering is fun!

It's identical. You're saying that relay is not related to my install?

I went out there and connected the ignition wire. Now I have the following wires connected:

- Ground for unit
- power for unit
- tachometer input to ECM
- parking light connected to test light
- module ignition output connected to blue ignition wire from harness

after all is said and done, it blinks 3 times continuously, meaning "no signal or the signal is not fast enough, find a different wire"

I found the alternator wire, if need be. The unit seems to know what the tach or alternator signal is, based on pulses.

yah i have no idea where to go with this, I just don't understand what the module wants from me. I await a knowledgeable reply... thanks

I didn't connect ALL the wires, but again understanding what the computer wants and how it wants it are key here. Again if the starter is such a high amperage, then the output starter wire should run into a relay which then powers the starter.

If this is the case and the tachometer circuit is working properly, my test light should show positive. The test light has little resistance, but the starter must be the highest amperage load in the whole system. Did I fry the computer? it still pulses

the voice of experience is needed, please.

Where to start?

Here is a link to a video of a very simplified remote start install:  https://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/remoteStartervideo.html

The CM4200 basically has to duplicate everything the "key in the ignition start sequence" does for a remote start.

A couple of basics.  All wires should be located and verified before connections are made.  Trial and error is bad.
The wire guides are just that, guides.  They have been known to be wrong.  In the best case, an incorrect connection
will not allow the vehicle to start.  In the worst case you will damage a working vehicle to the point where it
needs to be towed to the repair shop.  All connections should be soldered and insulated with quality electric tape.

At a minimum, here are the connections you will need.  This is assuming the Bulldog information is correct.  It is
necessary to verify all wires...

CN1
Pin 1 Red                 +12v Constant        Red @ Ignition Switch Harness
Pin 2 GREEN / WHITE  (+) Parking Lights   Blue/Red in Driver Kick Panel
Pin 3 RED / White       +12v Constant       Red @ Ignition Switch Harness
Pin 4 White               ACC1                     Purple @ Ignition Switch Harness
Pin 5 Blue                 N.U.
Pin 6 Yellow             Starter                     YELLOW /GREEN @ Ignition Switch Harness  (Cut off relay and connect thick yellow wire.)
Pin 7 GREEN/ Red     Ignition                     Blue @ Ignition Switch Harness
Pin 8 Black              Chassis Ground

CN2
Pin 3 to external relay if you want starter kill - it is optional and requires cutting the vehicles Starter wire.
Pin 7 to BLACK (-)  @ RIBBON CABLE, IN THE STEERING COLUMN       if you want the horn, optional

CN3
Pin 2 Gray/Black                Hood pin switch
Pin 3 Light Blue/White       WHITE (+) @ SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDAL
Pin 9 Yellow/Black             GRAY/BLUE  @ PCM, the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) is located on the LEFT Inner Fender behind the HEADLIGHT.
 There are other places to obtain a Tach signal.  Fuel Injectors and the coil are alternatives.

Additionally, assuming the Jeep is an automatic trans, cut the JM1 jumper wire.  Set the Tach switch ON, the other
switch to OFF for 15 minute run time.  If the Jeep is a manual trans, have the unit professionally installed.

If you feel it's too complicated, it is worth the money to have the unit professionally installed.  There are other
connections ( door locks, trunk, etc ) that still have to be made and some Option Programming for a complete install.
This is a 6 hour job with several hours of research / prep work prior to starting. 

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Soldering is fun!

If you wish to use the Starter Kill circuit, connect the pre-wired external Starter Kill relay as follows:

Purple wire with connector goes to Purple wire with connector from CN2 Pin 3.

Cut Jeeps' YELLOW /GREEN Starter wire at an accessible location. 
Solder the relays Yellow/Black to the cut YELLOW /GREEN wire on the Ignition switch / Key side. 
Solder the relays Yellow wire to the cut YELLOW /GREEN wire on the vehicle side.

In the CM4200 programming options, Menu 1-10 is factory defaulted to Anti-Grind only.  You can
change it to Anti-Grind / Passive Starter Kill if desired.

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Soldering is fun!

Yesterday I connected the RED / white power to connector 1, and the tachometer worked. But the Jeep doesn't start, there are no parking lights or any response from the unit unless doing a tach test.

so I connected the blower fan accessory circuit just now and it still didn't work. Fried the computer?

CN1 is connected completely. Yellow/black (tach) is connected. I'll go out there now and connect brake pedal.

Hard to say.  Exactly which wires from the CM4200 do you have connected and to which vehicle wires are they connected?

As mentioned earlier, all vehicle wires should be located, tested and verified.  Then proper connections ( soldered ) should be made to all necessary wires.  Then Tach Learn and testing.   Most remote start brains are fairly well fused and protected but truly heinous mis-wiring can kill them.

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Soldering is fun!

Every wire in CN1 is connected. I have tested for continuity in them all. I turned the starter by connecting my hot red wire to the jeep starter wire and located the ignition wire on the column.

The only other wire connected is the yellow/black to tachometer.

The yellow wire on the harness is connected to the yellow wire CN1.
Red harness is connected to the two red wires on the unit.
Ground is connected to dash.

Parking light is connected to my test light, which worked for tachometer tests.

Accessory has been connected to purple on the harness. I should add that there was a remote start on this vehicle at some time because there are aftermarket clips on each of these wires.

There are batteries in the remote, the light works.

 Is the antenna harness and antenna plugged in? 

What type of remotes?  Did you program the remotes to the brain? 

Does the unit respond ( by blinking the test light ) to a lock or unlock button press? 

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Soldering is fun!

the unit doesn't respond to the remote at all, the antenna is plugged in. I didn't program the remote to the unit, wasn't aware that needed to be done

ps. the remote came with the module.

For a four button one way remote:

1. Turn the key to ON then OFF five times within seven seconds.  The Parking Lights should flash once.

2. Press the Lock button once on the first FOB.  The Parking Lights should flash once.

3. Repeat step 2 for the second remote FOB.  ( Three FOB's max. )

4. Wait a few seconds and the Parking Lights should flash twice.  Programming sequence ended.

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Soldering is fun!

finally some progress. I followed step 1, but the parking lights flashed once and then in a couple seconds flashed twice

There is a ~5 second time limit between step 1 and 2, and 2 and 3...

After the parking lights flash once, quickly start pressing lock on the remotes.

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Soldering is fun!

Kreg, thanks for the advise. The system works, though oddly enough the engine only turns on for about ten seconds then quits then restarts repeating like that.

The other question I had is, should both the ignition and starter circuits be wired directly to the unit as they are, or should a relay be placed between? Thanks.

The thick CN1 wires should be directly connected to the Jeeps ignition wires, no relays required.  There are internal relays in the brain.  The pre-wired external Starter Kill relay is optional if you desire that feature.

The engine turning off after 10 seconds might mean you should re-learn the Tach signal at a normal, warm engine, slow idle. If necessary you can even re-learn the Tach with the trans in reverse for an even slower idle...

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Soldering is fun!