turn on lights when alarm armed?

Hello, I have a 2004 Chevy Avalanche and one feature I really like is when I lock the doors it turns on the parking lights/reverse lights for 30 seconds or so.

I am planning on installing an aftermarket alarm in my '93 Corvette. I've searched and searched but I cannot find where any aftermarket alarms feature this option? Can anyone tell me if the top of the line DEI security systems have this feature?

Thanks,

You would have to add it - you can do it several ways, but the easiest would probably be a DEI pulse timer connect to the lock output of the alarm. When the lock output pulses it can trigger the pulse timer to turn on for 30 seconds. The contacts of the pulse timer can drive the parking lights / reverse lights / head lights / etc.

-------------
Kevin Pierson

KPierson wrote:

---

You would have to add it - you can do it several ways, but the easiest would probably be a DEI pulse timer connect to the lock output of the alarm. When the lock output pulses it can trigger the pulse timer to turn on for 30 seconds. The contacts of the pulse timer can drive the parking lights / reverse lights / head lights / etc.

---

Thanks for the answer that is exactly the info I was looking for.

Kevin, wouldn't you need at least one extra relay or a pair of diodes, one 3 amp* for the reversing lights and one 3 amp for the side lights.
508d.
BLACK/ white from alarm's lock pulse.
Black to ground.
Red and yellow to constant 12V+, fused at 20amps.
Orange not used.
Brown via diodes, bands (cathodes) away from 508d towards lights and reversing lights.
* 1N54XX diode.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Since I'm not familiar with the wiring of that vehicle I didn't go in to details of how to hook up the contacts of the pulse timer. You would need to keep all the signals isolated for sure!

-------------
Kevin Pierson

Howie, me thinks you have a typo error. the 508d is a motion sensor. Maybe you ment a 528t?

-------------
When all else fails, Read the Instructions
Support the12volt.com Make a Donation

You think right luckily certain things are joined to me permanently
I meant of course 528t.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I have connected this type of setup on my 2000 Ford Taurus Wagon and it works, BUT, the diode get very hot. As in untouchable hot when the 528t is triggered with the unlock.   Is this normal for the diode to get this hot?    Have I connected something wrong?    I know I have the correct wire to the back up lights. BLACK/ Pink in the drivers kick panel, as when I cut that wire, no back up lights.

I have connected just a tail light bulb the the brown wire with the diode, grounded the bulb, hit the unlock trigger, and still the diode get hot. 

Red and Yellow to 12 volts constant, Black to ground, BLACK/ White to unlock trigger, and Brown to back up lights (BLACK/ Pink)

-------------
When all else fails, Read the Instructions
Support the12volt.com Make a Donation

What is the part number for the diode you installed? How much current do the headlights pull? How much current do the reverse lights pull?

You may be better off using two additional relays - one for each set of lights, for the isolation over the diodes.

-------------
Kevin Pierson

X 2 with KP, also if just staying with the diode, use an 2N54xx not 1N4xxx. 2 x rev lights a 21watts =42watts divide by 12 = 3amps +!

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

The diode is  a 1N5400.  I am  using this for the reverse lights only. As to the current draw, I'll have to look at that later today.   Using an additional relay may be the answer. I'll see what I can find in the relay section as to the smartest way to do it.  I take  it that I will be using the 528 to trigger the additional relay.  Thanks for the direction.

-------------
When all else fails, Read the Instructions
Support the12volt.com Make a Donation

If a 5400 is running hot then you definitely need a relay, a smaller 10 amps capacity should be fine such as DEI 8166, I think that's the part number, I prefer to buy them raw, from the UK equivalent of Farnell and diode and wire them up myself, it costs a third as much!

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Try Newark, part number 74R1537, IMO SRM-1C-SL-12VDC, PC relay, 10 amps power handling as a SPCO or 12 amps switching, $1 plus a few cents for a diode and some 30mm (1.25") shrink sleeving.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

The current draw on the reverse lights is 3.88 amps.  That diode gets into the 170F (77c) degree temp range for the 30 seconds the 528 is activated. 

Should I be going to a 5 amp diode and can I use a 30/40 relay?

-------------
When all else fails, Read the Instructions
Support the12volt.com Make a Donation

Yes of course although that's an expensive route, that's why I suggested mini relays.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Issue resolved with a 6 amp diode. Work great!  Diode only gets warm for a 40 second timed activation.

-------------
When all else fails, Read the Instructions
Support the12volt.com Make a Donation

I found this quite interesting for the following reason.
In Europe (actually everywhere bar North America) we use amber direction indicators front and back. When I do a UK Cat l alarm and add a remote start, it doesn't feed these lights. So I modify using the GWR status output via a relay and a pair of 1N54XX diodes to each white light wire, (those white wires are on separate circuits here).
Now these have a load of 3amps constant, ie 36watts.
Each side adds up to 2 x 21 watts (front and rear) and 10watts (front wing side indicator) = 52 watts but I've never had any problems.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.