viper 5301 remote start trouble

I bought this alarm a while ago but just recently started installing it in my 1992 Subaru SVX. Most of the wiring is complete but I ran into a few problems that I could really use some help/advise on.

1. All of the remote start wiring is installed but when I hit the remote start button on the remote it just buzzes and flashes - I hear the alarm box click after that but it doesn't attempt to start the car.

2. Power Door locks - unable to figure out how to hook them up. The car is 2 door and has power locks but no switch for it - you push the lock on the driver side up or down and it operates both sides. I located two wires in the door from the lock that have power when locking/unlocking but if I hook the wire from the alarm to it nothing happens. Suspect I need to ad a relay but unsure and any help with wiring it would be great.

I can't answer the starting problem till you tell what's been connected to what. Basics; is your BLACK/ white NSS connected to either ground, the parking brake or does that model have an NSS pin on the engine management?
Have you checked the remote's outputs,e.g starter output?
Ref; the locks. Without keyless entry you will need an actuator in the driver's door, you remove the bolt holding the bottom of the rear window channel slacken the top, move it forward and mount the actuator behind it. then re-site the channel, it's the only place to mount the actuator in that door without fouling the window mech.
You will also need a pair of relays or a 451 module to power the locks.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

OK - got a chance to play with it a little today - I found that the remote start was optioned by default to Manual mode and it's installed in an automatic so I changed that option. Now it will go through the start process but it will not crank the starter. I checked the starter wire (Violet/Purple off the alarm) and it's connected to the correct starter wire off of the ignition harness in the car (verified by checking voltage while I cranked the car). The alarm box goes through the process of trying to start the car all 3 times but the PURPLE / violet wire coming out of the alarm does not supply any voltage.

Could this be an option in the set up menu or something else connected wrong out of the heavy guage harness.

Here is how I connected the wiring on the heavy guage harness (H3) 8 pin:

H3/1 Pink - Ignition 1 input/output  ---- connected to solid black wire of Ignition Harness (power when key to on)

H3/2 RED / White - (+) Fused 30a Ignition 2 / Flex relay Input ---- Not Used

H3/3 Orange - Accessory Output ------ BLACK/ Blue Ignition Harness

H3/4 Violet - Starter Output ----- BLACK / YELLOW Ignition Harness (has power when cranking)

H3/5 Red - (+) Fused 30a Ignition 1 input ----- BLACK/ White ignition harness (constant power)

H3/6 Pink/White - (+) Ignition 2 / Flex relay output 30 ----- not used

H3/7 Pink/Black - Flex Relay Input 87a Key Side (if req) of Flex Relay ----- not used

H3/8 RED / Black - (+) Fused 30a Accessory/Starter input ---- not used.

To answer the earlier reply - The NSS wire is attached to ground - is that correct?

The car has power locks so it is equiped with actuators but no normal lock/unlock button like most newer cars. I have to use the slide lock/unlock on the top of the door to operate it - it will do both doors at the same time.

Connect the RED / white and the RED / black to constant power, can you do the same ref; locking from the passenger side? Bet you can't. NSS goes to ground if auto or reverse light wire as an extra safety.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Thanks for the reply. You are right - the power lock for both doors only works when applied from the driver side. I'll try hooking the oher two wires to constant power after work later today and report back.

RED / white is only used to power pink/white... so not needed if 2nd Ign not needed... RED / black powers the crank and ACC relays, so definately needed...  did tach learn?

it will need this as a reference or V-tach.....    

BTW, 5301 is not an alarm model.... 5701 is....

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Kevin Gerry
Certified Electronics Technician
MECP First Class Installer

Owner/Installer
Classic Car Audio
since 1979

I ALWAYS tell'em to connect RED / white, at least you then know everything's connected, how much longer does it take?
Leaving things out are for the likes of us, not rookies.
Best place for tach on that car is behind the instrument panel, I can't remember the colour but it's a PITA to get the panel back with the cable speedo drive.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Thanks all - I connected RED / Black and remote start is working. Still hung up on the door locks so any suggestions on how to wire them up on this car would be greatly appreciated.

You were told what was required in my first post.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

If I understand correctly, you mentioned that the car has power door locks.  Are they factory or aftermarket?  Is there a
lock/unlock switch in the door or on the console?  Do you have a factory FOB that controls the locks?  Aftermarket door
locks will have wires added to the cars' door harness and a small control module ( under the dash? ) that connects / controls
both doors.

If the car has factory power door locks, here is info from DEI :
 Function            Wire Color         Polarity    Location 
Power Lock       blue/brown or orange     (-)      driver kick panel   
Power Unlock     orange or blue/orange    (-)      driver kick panel

If you locate these wires in the drivers kick panel, verify them with a DMM.  Set to 20V DC, Red lead to +12v constant
and Black lead to suspect wire.  Actuate the locks, the DMM should briefly go to +12v.  If it is indeed factory locks,
you should be able to directly connect the Vipers Blue and Green wires to the correct vehicle wires.

If you have aftermarket door locks you will probably have to open up the drivers door panel and start tracing from there.
The actuator on the drivers side should have 5 wires.  These wires should go to a control unit.  The control unit might
have unused lock and unlock control wires just for this purpose.  If you find an aftermarket control unit, get the make
& model number and try to find an install guide for more more detailed info.

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Soldering is fun!

Kreg, we've already been over this which is why my last post was a bit short, OEM with an actuator required in the driver's door + a 451.
I have pictures of this from a UK spec car, there's a special way to mount the motor, it won't work in any other position. I'll email you with the photos, perhaps you can resize them for me and post them to show our friend.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Special thanks to Howard for these photos.

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Soldering is fun!

Thanks Kreg, don't forget to mirror image these for the US.
Don't even attempt to mount the actuator anywhere else, you will foul the window mechanism, I did loads of these up to 98/9 When they went (here) to 1 wire NEG/open circuit full motor operation.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Thanks guys - I got it all done today. Didn't need any actuators just had to tap into the orange and blue/orange lock wires off of the factory set up and it works good. I appreciate all the help.

Well that taught me something, the US model had "multipoint" power locks and the UK model "single point". Live and learn.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.