factory key fob actions disarm alarm?
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=127548
Printed Date: May 14, 2025 at 4:45 AM
Topic: factory key fob actions disarm alarm?
Posted By: jmoline
Subject: factory key fob actions disarm alarm?
Date Posted: June 04, 2011 at 6:27 PM
I have a 08 Mercury Sable that I installed a Compustar CM6000 brain into with the P2W9000-SS remote and antanae. Everything works as normal even my rear defrost and heated seats. The only problem I have is that if the Compustar is armed and I hit the trunk or unlock on the factory key fob (factory key fob is built into the key) the Compustar alarm will go off. Does the CM 6000 have a disarm input? Or can one of the POC's be programmed to be a disarm input? Basically I would have to hook it up to the factory unlock and trunk pop so that when it is triggered it also disarms the Compustar alarm. Does anyone know if this is possible? I know it would have to be a DISARM INPUT but need to know if it has that capability and if so what wire or POC to I need to use? Thanks so very much.
Replies:
Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: June 04, 2011 at 6:46 PM
Check your CM6000 install guide for details on AUX 1 Input, Option 4-06 Option 3 or 4. Excerpt below :
4-06 Aux 1 Input – This option changes the input behavior of the pre-warn wire on the Aux Input Sensor green connector. Default 1: Will pre-warn with a negative (-) ground input. Option 2: Will instant trigger with a negative (-) ground input. Option 3: Will disarm the alarm with a negative (-) ground input. Used when adding an alarm to a factory keyless entry system. Option 4: Will disarm the alarm with a positive (+) 12V input. Used when adding an alarm to a factory keyless entry system.
------------- Soldering is fun!
Posted By: jmoline
Date Posted: June 04, 2011 at 7:28 PM
Thanks Kreg. To tell you the truth I caught that 10 minutes after I posted this thread. Green Plug CN14 is used for optional inputs, usually for extra sensors or factory keyless. Pin 4 on that connect will in fact disarm the system witha negative input via option 3. So I have to take a wire from the trunk pop input and also the door unlock input and diode isolate them to this Gray/ White wire on CN14 Pin 4 and change the option. Diode must be in place or when I go to unlock the doors the trunk will pop also. Also Aux 2 input which is Pin 2 on the same CN14 can be programed to ARM with a negative input. So I will then take my lock input to this as well so that if the factory key fob is pushed to lock it will also arm the system.
Thanks so much for your input I came to post a DUH me reply but you had already gave me the answer I overlooked. THANKS AGAIN.
Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: June 05, 2011 at 12:52 PM
Exactly.  Luckily both unlock and trunk release are (-) signals, so combine with diodes ( bands away from CM6000 ) and set 4-06 to option 3. ------------- Soldering is fun!
Posted By: jmoline
Date Posted: June 05, 2011 at 9:59 PM
kreg357 wrote:
Exactly. Luckily both unlock and trunk release are (-) signals, so combine with diodes ( bands away from CM6000 ) and set 4-06 to option 3.
Even if they were different polaritys I could still use a relay and diode the same. Question though. Will a standard 1 amp diode be sufficient or do I need tomething bigger to hold the pulse? Thanks.
Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: June 06, 2011 at 8:36 AM
Standard blocking diodes ( 1N4001 , 1N4004 or 1N4007 ) will work fine.
------------- Soldering is fun!
Posted By: jmoline
Date Posted: June 06, 2011 at 9:56 PM
Ok Kreg...Stumper. I set the two options for those inputs as we described via my OP500. I diode isolated both negative pulses (unlock and trunk) to the negative UNARM input and took the negative lock to the negative ARM input respectively. I took these off the same unlock, lock, and trunk triggers. Put it all back together and when I hit the unlock trunk or lock on the factory key fob it DOES NOT arm or disarm.....When I DDM test these wires I get 12volts on rest and ground on trigger as its suppose to but when testing the same wires and hitting the key fob triggers it does not go to solid ground (hense not enough signal. I tried a relay from ground trigger to ground and there is still not enough to trigger the relay..... HOWEVER if I hit the lock unlock or trunk buttons within the car, it does arm and disarm as its suppose to. So I guess the question is, is there a keyless entry module somewhere in the car with different triggers for the lock and unlock? Or why am I not getting the same SOLID GROUND from the keyfob that I am getting from the actual door buttons? Any ideas? THANKS!!!
Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: June 07, 2011 at 6:22 AM
Not sure on the Tarus/Sable... Think that year might be the SJB. It should be part of the fuse box assy. If it's the same SJB configuration as the 08 Edge, test the wires on Plug D. Pin 15 Trunk Release(GREEN / WHITE) and Pin 28 Drivers Door Unlock (Blue/Green). For Lock, try Pin 6 (Gray/Brown).
------------- Soldering is fun!
Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: June 13, 2011 at 9:09 PM
the compustar can be set for disarm-unlock-trunk release. if you have that programmed it shouldnt set off the factory.
i know youre asking for disarm inputs, but the compustar can retain all factory functions without the use of the factory fob.
------------- Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert
Posted By: jmoline
Date Posted: June 14, 2011 at 9:33 AM
I understand that but th factory key fob is part of the key and too many times a button has been hit on accident which sets off the compustar.
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