code alarm 1151 on a 96 land cruiser

This is my first alarm install, after hours of reading an looking at diagrams I thought I'd be able to handle this... maybe not haha.

I recently bought a 96 land cruiser that had an alarm installed and deactivated. They left it in valet mode due to loosing the remotes. There is no name on it but it's fairly straight forward, they were using all the points I was going to tap into. I remove it and everything works fine (except starter, which was plugged directly into the brain of this circa 2002 equipment).

I've routed all the wires that I determined were necessary.

6 PIN MAIN:
Parking light output/input
Ground
12v+
Siren

6-Pin Output:
Green Door Trigger ( - ) to RED / blue in kick panel
Yellow to ignition
orange to relay

6 PIN Door Lock:
violet/black & Violet - Grounded
Blue/Black to blue / YELLOW & Blue/orange with diodes (stripes towards alarm)
This deviates from the table posted here, but the previous alarm was using these points.
GREEN/ Black to GREEN/ red

Now, the problem I have is the door lock and unlock is inconsistent.
I can arm the system and the doors lock.
The alarm will disarm, but doors dont unlock.
The door panel unlock switch also fails to work
until I manually unlock one door for the electronic switch to work again.

Leaving the doors open, the remote lock/unlock works 100%. Never stuck in the lock position.

I saw the Audiovox Toyota lock integration pdf, but my year and model are not on the list.

Any help or input would be great.
Thanks.

DEI says Blue/black as the lock wire, try that after testing, the rest seems OK, so:
Alarm GREEN/ black to blue black;
Alarm blue/black diode out see diagram, to blue yellow and blue orange.
Test first.
toyota.bmp

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Just a thought; you have connected at the driver's kick panel and grounded at a decent grounded bolt in the car, not in the door haven't you.
Grounding in the door would give this result as panel grounding in a car door should never be done, you can loose that ground when the door is closed.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I've just remembered a piece of arcane knowledge.
On Toyotas of that vintage there was a lock module and this had a driver's door trigger as a stand-off for the locking system; i.e. if it sensed the door open it would unlock the vehicle.
Find the module, test for the wire that goes to ground ONLY when the door is open and cut and seal it.
It's quite possible on a vehicle of this age to have a faulty door pin switch.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Hi Howie. Thanks for the input.

There were 3 blue/black wires at the kick panel, non of them responded to the lock function. So I followed the GREEN/ red as listed on this site.

I have I solid ground on the chassis, sanded paint off and everything.
However, I don't know if this is an issue - black, violet, and violet/black are all grounded at the same spot.

The lock module is active. It automatically unlocks the doors if I lock them with an open door.
I'm assuming the module is the box in the drivers door? or do I find it elsewhere?

Thanks again.

OK, your grounding point is OK, that module should be a black box, about the size of a cigarette pack, vertically mounted, under driver's side.
The other place to lock is the driver's door pin switch. See if there are two wires from it anywhere and cut the one that isn't "reddish".

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Well, I moved the door lock wire to the blue/black wire as you suggested and it cure the problems with locking and unlocking. Now, for some reason the alarm will not activate when the FL door is opened.

I'm going to take another look at it tomorrow. Its a nightmare on this harness, vampire crimps everywhere... I hate vampire crimps but whoever put the last alarm on loved them. I'm assuming that maybe theres a short or a cut wire being hidden in the crimps somewhere.

Oh please, get rid of all those crimps and solder the joints!
Why would you want to activate the alarm when the f/left door is opened any way? Some common sense here please.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I was testing the door triggers. Is it not common sense that the alarm should go off when the door is opened All other doors trigger, just not the FL.

I'm in the process of undoing the previous owners/installers poor decisions with some clean soldering and heat shrink. I think I've pulled at least a roll of electric tape out too. Didn't we have wire-loom in the late 90's?

Activate means turn on not engage or does it? Confusing, try "sound the alarm", any way the answer is that door pin switch, wire brake or switch corrosion.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.