autopage c3 rs 603 on a gmc
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=127636
Printed Date: May 17, 2025 at 6:56 PM
Topic: autopage c3 rs 603 on a gmc
Posted By: tayler
Subject: autopage c3 rs 603 on a gmc
Date Posted: June 15, 2011 at 11:45 AM
Car - 2000 GMC Sierra 2500 it does not have an alarm or door lock switch but does have door lock actuators.
I have installed the unit and everything is powered and grounded as it should be. It will attempt a start but will not stay running after it disengages the starter. Also the door lock actuators wiggle but do not engage with the FOB.
Questions about the door lock - Is there a specific actuator that is needed for this model? If so, which one.
It says on the bulldog wiring schematic that it is equiped with GM's PassLock 2 anti-theft system and that I will need a bypass module.
Is there a way to by pass this with out a module?
If not what module do I need?
Thanks in advance,
Tayler
Replies:
Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: June 15, 2011 at 3:23 PM
If the power door locks are not factory, you will need to check to see the type of unit that is installed. Depending on
which type of aftermarket unit, the wiring will vary.
There is a way to bypass the Passlock2 system with 2 relays and a resistor. Here is a link with the wiring diagram
and procedure : https://documents.audiovox.com/700054.pdf You will need a Digital Multi Meter to determine the resistor
value required.
The DEI 556LW bypass module will do the same thing and costs about $25 or less. ------------- Soldering is fun!
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: June 15, 2011 at 4:32 PM
That symptom also suggests you haven't programmed tach.
As for the door locks, did they work before?
a) See if the vehicle does an R/S with the key in the ignition, if it does and does the same thing connect and program tach.
b) Are the door lock actuators factory or aftermarket?
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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: June 15, 2011 at 4:36 PM
If they wiggle it suggests that you have two masters wired up, disconnect the spare wires from the actuator.
If aftermarket you will have either of these two lots of colours at the actuators:
green blue
blue red
black black
white violet
brown brown
Disconnect the black from the passenger side.
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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: tayler
Date Posted: June 15, 2011 at 5:41 PM
howie ll wrote:
That symptom also suggests you haven't programmed tach.
The tach programmed with all the program beeps and flashes.
As for the door locks, did they work before?
That was the issue. They only worked when hitting the lock function. I did not install it and could not find a schematic for the old system. At one point it did work but it stopped working....? So that is why I bought this.
a) See if the vehicle does an R/S with the key in the ignition, if it does and does the same thing connect and program tach.
Does not just engages and stops. All electrical (ACC Blower/Heating-A/C) are running just not the car. Then it tries to start again and same thing. Tries to start but does not stay running.
b) Are the door lock actuators factory or aftermarket?
I am assuming it is an after market as it was not a GMC FOB. I am thinking there is a low volt / high volt type actuator. I need the appropriate H/L volt actuator to allow it to throw the rod.
I spoke with an install shop they said I needed a by-pass for the key pass system. As it stands everything does what it should. It just does not remain running. Kinda stinks that you can wire this unit correctly and it still wont work!
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: June 15, 2011 at 5:54 PM
OK, point one, what you described still tells me your problem is tach, the fact that the starter motor stays engaged and then it all shuts down after 10-15 seconds is a no-tach symptom. So look again at where you've connected your tach wire and test with the engine running, DMM set to 20 VAC red probe to the suspect wire, black to ground, should get 1.5 -3 volts AC at idle increasing slightly if you rev. up. N.B. If this vehicle is a diesel, you'd be better off with something like a DEI 464 inductive tach feed, doesn't affect the engine and it's more reliable and stable.
Back to the locks and Kreg will agree with me, there ain't no such animal as a "high/low voltage" actuator.
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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: tayler
Date Posted: June 15, 2011 at 6:06 PM
kreg357 wrote:
If the power door locks are not factory, you will need to check to see the type of unit that is installed. Depending on which type of aftermarket unit, the wiring will vary.
There is a way to bypass the Passlock2 system with 2 relays and a resistor. Here is a link with the wiring diagram and procedure : https://documents.audiovox.com/700054.pdf You will need a Digital Multi Meter to determine the resistor value required.
I have (1) four pin relay, a 40 amp fuse and a 10 amp fuse all for ignition ; not (2) 5 pin relays. My set up is in the black box at the battery.
The DEI 556LW bypass module will do the same thing and costs about $25 or less.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: June 15, 2011 at 6:07 PM
Second point is regarding what you said about the locks.
ALL actuators on a 12volt vehicle will run on 12 volts.
After market units run on 2 or 5 wires.
2 wire is a standard permanent magnet motor where both wires at rest sit on ground, then one goes to 12v+ while the other stays at ground and vice versa for the other direction.
5 wire is the same but usually known as a master, sits in the drivers's door and goes back to a specialist "timer" relay. Turning the key in the driver's door pushes this actuator thus engaging the internal micro-switch (the other three wires) actuating or triggering this relay operating the other "slave" motors.
It's a mistake two wire up 2 masters as the micro-switches inside if they are not mounted in EXACTLY the same position will "work" against each other making the motors go up and down.
You have to look at your actuators and describe them to us especially the wire colours and we can take it from there. The fact that they don't unlock means you have to test at the controlling relay. Do they only lock with the key? You still haven't answered my question.
Are we sure this vehicle needs a by-pass. An install shop told you...does your car key or owner's manual tell you? A lot of vans and SUVs in the US never had them at this time. Though I might be wrong at this point, GMC vans are as rear as rocking horse s**t in the land of Sprinters and Ford Transits.
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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: June 15, 2011 at 6:13 PM
If your aftermarket power locks have a FOB to remotely lock and unlock the doors, then start looking for the control module. There might be an antenna on the windshield and a small box under the dash. Just follow the wires. Often times there are unused external input wires meant for Alarm or Remote Starter control.
The Passlock2 immobilizer system usually affects the fuel pump. The vehicle will crank but not run due to lack of fuel. It is resistance based and there is no transponder chip in the key. ------------- Soldering is fun!
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: June 15, 2011 at 6:17 PM
Crank AND run = tach not programmed, end of yes K.?
I wan't going as far as the dedicated timer relay yet, that's for sometime tomorrow which it is here right now.
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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: June 15, 2011 at 6:20 PM
Oh, OK then, Spal and MES use either a blue or black relay, double size with 6 terminals set out in standard Bosch pattern.
The nasty Taiwanese copies use an (unreliable, I've had some DOA) black relay with the tenminals in a straight line.
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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: tayler
Date Posted: June 16, 2011 at 7:13 AM
My actuators are of the two wire variety. I connect the blue and green wires to the brains of the autopage unit and it will wiggle a little but nothing resembeling a lock or unlock. The old unit has been found and removed as it did not work reliably. Sometimes it would and some times it would not. That is the reason i'm here posting about the autopage unit I bought to replace it.
UPDATE: I took the actuator off the door to relieve it of the load and they still slide. They just seem weak. Are they just worn out? They are made by PARADA as was the old keyless entry unit.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: June 16, 2011 at 9:04 AM
OK. Go to the relay section on this site, sub section, door locks, adding actuators. That will show you the correct diagram and what you need.
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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: June 16, 2011 at 1:22 PM
This is my modified IMO more correct version, 2 relays, 2 1N4004 diodes or use a 451 module from DEI, it might even plug strait in.
add_actuators.gif------------- Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: tayler
Date Posted: June 16, 2011 at 6:52 PM
I did mention that I have an autopage unit with actuator +/- out. There is no lock relays in my truck. Because there were none there to begin with, only an after market PARADA unit. I have replace the Parada unit with the autopage unit. It is my understanding that the autopage unit will power actuators to throw the locks. However it does not do this under a load. It throws the actuator with no load just fine. The actuators are just to weak with this unit (autopage).
Is there an actuator that works well with the autopage unit? I.E. if you are an autopage shop what actuator do you use with the system? This is all I want to know.
Thanks,
Tayler
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: June 17, 2011 at 1:04 AM
How many lock wires does this Autopage unit have?
You haven't mentioned which model.
There's NO point in changing the actuators at this point till we know.
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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: June 17, 2011 at 1:51 AM
Sorry, scrub last comment, didn't look at your original headline.
I've just looked through the install guide, 2 low current lock wires..
You will need the two relays as per diagram I posted before for ANY actuators.
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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: tayler
Date Posted: June 17, 2011 at 1:58 PM
I'm sure you're doing a great job of explaining this but I don't understand.
The low volt wires are only a trigger for the relay that sends the right amount of oomff to the actuator? If so I get it now and that makes perfect sence.
Now The relays don't have a slot to plug into in my vehicle. If they do I don't know where they are. I would think that GMC has a standard block for all sierras but I looked in three different locations for a relay or slot marked pwr/lock and there are no open slots. Sooooo the best bet would be for the 451 module?
Thanks again,
Tayler
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: June 17, 2011 at 3:23 PM
Exactly. So now go back to the diagram I posted but please, low current not low voltage, it's all 12volts, I'm not having a real go, it's just confusing.
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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: tayler
Date Posted: June 17, 2011 at 3:59 PM
OK no 451 unit available in my area. So two realys wired as advertised and it works. This thread has left my "DD" noobies showing...........thanks for your help.
Oh and I was only missing the module for the passkey2 by-pass. It will start from your house now.
Do you think it would be advisable to carry a fire exstinguisher for a week ot two......just in case?
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: June 17, 2011 at 4:09 PM
Very droll, no at least you listened, bet you don't forget about voltage and current requirements in the future....
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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: tayler
Date Posted: June 17, 2011 at 5:17 PM
Yea, low voltage and I guess high voltage still read 12.9 on my meter. Now I know.
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