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e class rear defogger

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=127670
Printed Date: June 03, 2024 at 6:08 AM


Topic: e class rear defogger

Posted By: homeinstaller
Subject: e class rear defogger
Date Posted: June 18, 2011 at 5:00 PM

I have a 95 E 420 it has factory alarm so I got a Python 413 remote start .

I really would like to use the defogger but i cant seem to figure out how to hook it up.

The unit gives me a 200 mA neg output (latched / pulsed) .

The defogger has an ext combination relay.

But I drew a blank with this one. Any help would be great.

Thank you. :oops:




Replies:

Posted By: homeinstaller
Date Posted: June 22, 2011 at 10:53 AM

Comfort closure on a 1995 mercedes e420.

the unit is a python 413 remote start.

from the unit i have a blue unlock and a green lock wire on 2 relays

set up for vac locks it is working properly .

I also have a GREEN / WHITE -factory alarm rearm wire

also a GREEN/ black -factory alarm disarm

both ( - ) 200  mA  and work properly

i programed the unit for the comfort closure but the unit does not  close the windows

or the sunroof .if i use the key in the door the car rolls up the windows and the sunroof.

i took note the unit is sending a 20 second (-) signal through green lock wire but

if i apply a 20 second (-) from ground to the cars factory arm wire it will arm and close the windows and the sunroof  

the unit is sending a neg pulse through the GREEN / WHITE rearm wire

i cant see what i am doing wrong . i would like to use the comfort closure from the unit.

any help would be great. thank you.

one more thing how do i use a mutimeter on  a fuel injector to find the non comman side for the virtual tach.

i belive set to AC  and i do not know where the red probe or the black probe need to go. Thank You.





Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: June 22, 2011 at 12:02 PM
I thought the lock wires on that model were black and blue, two thin wires going to the pump. Access point on right hand drive, those wires go along the conduit across the right hand front seat and join the main loom level with the seat. Apply your lock to black and you will get total close.
Rear defog, best bet is to find the wire going to the rear window that goes to 12V+ when you turn on the defrost and wire it as follows:-

1_relay_template.bmp

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: June 22, 2011 at 12:11 PM
Sorry, didn't realise the US model was still using vac. control, it was fully electronic with the above mentioned colours as in the last post over here.
For that model, use an aux output, time for however long it takes to close the windows and roof (if applicable) + 2 seconds.
Look in either floor loom for a rubberised tube containing a yellow/blue, BROWN / black and RED / white wires, join to the yellow/blue.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: June 22, 2011 at 12:25 PM
Tach should be a YELLOW /GREEN to rear of instrument panel or in engine bay diagnostic socket.
If you need to use tach on an injector, each injector has two wires, look for the colour that's common to all the injectors, don't use it use the any of the other colours. To test set your DMM to 20
VAC.
Black lead to ground, red lead to wire, should read 2-4 volts AC at idle, increase slightly if you rev up.
Question doesn't this vehicle need a by-pass and if so what did you use?
If you apply that pulse to the factory arm, does it lock as well? If that's the case remove the relays and wire the lock outputs as a type A to the factory arm and disarm, still set for comfort close.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: homeinstaller
Date Posted: June 22, 2011 at 12:58 PM

Question doesn't this vehicle need a by-pass and if so what did you use?
If you apply that pulse to the factory arm, does it lock as well? If that's the case remove the relays and wire the lock outputs as a type A to the factory arm and disarm, still set for comfort close.

No bypass was needed the RS unit had a factory arm and a factory disarm wire .so i wireed as needed and it does work properly.

A. a 20 sec pulse to the factory arm will close windows ,sunroof and,arm the system but will not lock the actuators.

a single 0.5 or 0.8 sec pulse will only arm the factory system





Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: June 22, 2011 at 3:54 PM
OK, if leaving the locking side on comfort close didn't hurt the locks, take that green wire with comfort control still on and wire it to the factory arm before the relays, that should close the windows and roof.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: homeinstaller
Date Posted: June 26, 2011 at 10:56 AM

thank you Howie ll

since my last post i,ve got  my tach signal ran and working

and also i,ve got my rear defogger wired and  working

i,ve decided not to use the comfort closure.

the information using DMM on the fuel injector was very helpful

now i have to do my wifes car

as always i thank you for your help    posted_image 






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