Printer Friendly Forum Posts - clifford in a mk7 transit

Im posting this on behalf of a friend. we've had a good search through the forum but cant find what we are after.

He is currently fitting a concept 300 into a ford transit mk7 van SWB 280 tdci, everything is ok bar the central locking, he cant seem to work out what the actual colours or type of system the central locking is?

Does anyone have a wiring diagram, or know what type the central locking is?

Also does anyone know what the door pin trigger wires are?

any help would be appreciated, thanks in advance.

What year, 07 on? Let me know and I'll post it on downloads/manuals.
It's a PITA.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Hi Howie.

its a 2006, mk7 model, registered sept 2006 56 plate

hth

hetz

I really can't help you. This version is extremely simple; it's easy to separate front and side door locking, if you can't pick up the door triggers (you need to add side and rear pin switches) you really shouldn't be doing this.
I've just remembered your previous posts, I think what you're trying is above your knowledge and capabilities

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

thanks for your help Howie!

I thought working from a wiring diagram would make life easier im pretty sure this is how pro's work?.... but i guess resorting to tracing wires and testing with a multimeter shouldnt be too hard.

thanks again.

hetz

Now you are thinking like a pro! I'm still not sure whether this Transit is the latest shape or the previous!
Have you got a lidded glove box either side of the dash or just a drop in cubby on the left?
No point in asking about this, I'm the only person here who knows them, I did the work -ups for DEI on the last Mondeo and the Transit Connect.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Hi Howie

I am the guy with the transit. I have a glove box on the top on each side of the dash. The main glove box on the passenger side drops down and you a fuse box. This also drops down to reveal a GEM box . The gem box has a number of connectors from top left to bottom left you have C4 grey, C3 black , C6 white, C1 black. On the right on the GEM box is C2 Brown and C5 Grey.

I have found and identified starter, iginiton cuts and indicators via digrams found on the net but i still had to test these as many of the diagrams did not correspond to my wiring. I have manged to find the lock wire on C3 which is blue and grey but this keeps blowing the fuse on the relay i have built once the doors are locked. The wire shows positive when unlocked and negative when locked.

I need to identify the unlock, door, sliding door and rear door triggers and the dome light wires. Also the dealock wire.

I have tried testing the unlock and deadlock wire as per cobras instructions but all wires show positive on unlock and lock.

Your help will be appreciated.

Thanking You

Anand

PM me with an email address, I'll send you the info.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I have a 2010 transit tourneo, and can't get it to lock via the GEM box. I have it down on my data sheet as Grey/Blue C3, but if I neg pulse this nothing happens apart from the fact that if you pulse the lock wire (Grey/Blue) and then pulse the Blue (unlock), each time you pulse lock unlock the courtesy light goes on off as you would expect apart from the fact that the doord do not phisically lock. The function of this lamp however is overidden if it is still on the timed illumination after the doors have been opened/closed. The unlock works OK as in it will unlock the doors if you first lock them with the OEM fob.

After reading some posts hereI have tested the yellow on C3 but there is no change in voltage when deadlocked (stays at 12v), so not tempted to try pulsing this. I am guessing that either the 2010 have something new (Ford modified the circuit to get over the deliberate shorting unlock problem that criminals used to open the rear doors?), or I am missing something very basic. The 2010 van I have has the single rear door and twin sliders (8 seater), and the locking mechanism is identical to the normal van as in it is one press of the OEM fob for lock, two presses for deadlock.

I have tested all connectors on C3 and none of them change voltage between lock and unlock (apart from blue ). You can however still hear the relay latch when deadlock is selected.

I am fitting the Toad 606i, and everything works except the lock function. I have tried manualy pulsing this wire just to confirm no problems with alarm unit.

I have downloaded Ford's Etis information, but not sure if the output of C2 pin 23 can be used as an input, with a meter I can see no voltage change on this pin anyway.

Run out of ideas on where to go next with this issue, help.

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If you don't know how to do it then ask someone who does

OK, I played with an 08 on Saturday and it was an add on so I didn't need to lock the doors.
Blue/brown deadlock, grey/orange unlock, yellow something regular lock. Probably a fourth to unlock the back doors separately.
These are all motor wires and should be wired accordingly,i.e. 5 wire alternate.
I went to one of the front domelights and picked up the switched side, this also picks up the door triggers in the back.
Unfortunately the 606i is an overpriced primitive POS with awful programming and I think if you do the motor wires it won't turn off the domelights hence the 606 will give you false alarms.
Contrary to the last post there are no keyholes to side or rear door so crims can't ground out the loom, apart from the fact that that is only applicable to the previous model, apart from which Ford addressed that problem from about 04.
Using a G5 Clifford 650Mkll which is virtually the same trade price will give you ignition lock/unlock plus deadlock on arming and separate unlock for the side and rear doors.
We also installed a bonnet switch.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Are you saying all 5 wires come back to C3? I have everything working (added bonnet switch) any door turns on all dome lights, 606i has interior light overide so will activate, and operates perfectly, sonics, microwave ect, but cant locate locking wire.

OK with electrics, relays ect, but no expert on transits or deadlocks/motors. I have guessed that a standard digital meter will be fine for this task. read on this site about the elusive deadlock wire (yellow) is this a myth?

I am as about day 5 with this problem, it must be somewhere on this connector as if you unplug it then no locks work, unplug one side of it (splits into 2 plugs inside connector) an it locks but signals door still open (one horn beep). Etis tell you door signals go to this plug on pins 1, 8, 13, 14 and 19, but they are not very good at showing pin numbering.

As I say the system works 100 percent if you did not want to lock the van overnight.

I have a headache.

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If you don't know how to do it then ask someone who does

Amazing, it took two of us 3 minutes! Mind you my pal had access to the latest data. Directechs was wrong and we used Autodata to tell us the colours.
All I needed was my trusty old school Snap-On test light.
Lock ALL.
Deadlock ALL
Unlock.
Unlock rear.
Forget the colours, test.
Those wires if you must waste time with a DMM will all sit on ground and go to 12v+ for 0.8 seconds.
By the way I count that as 4 wires.
On the 606 use the locks diagram marked "universal motor driven" on page 10. You will need 2 extra relays one triggered by your boot trunk release aux to separately unlock the rears; window close wire aux, timed for 4 seconds to trigger the deadlock set up to activate on arming.
Deadlock wire WAS yellow up to 06, now blue/brown as I previously posted or are you one of those who won't take advice.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I take as much advice as I can, trouble is I do plumbing, and before that photo copiers, so unless it has water, or paper in it then I am a bit slow.

I shall print and digest over a cup of tea (plumbers need this to take information in)

Thanks for you great wisdom, I am forever in your debt.

By the way next year they will be reducing cistern flushing to just 4 litres, big news in the plumbing world (2001 went from 11 litres to 9, 2004 9 to 6, and 6 is not enough). central locking will be the last of all our problems then!

Adam

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If you don't know how to do it then ask someone who does

Forgot to say, rear doors unlock wire is violet/brown (c3), double pulse, can get that to work.

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If you don't know how to do it then ask someone who does

4 litres? Enough? What next, Teflon coated bogs? Did I just invent something?
Theoretically there are - triggers for lock all, unlock front and unlock rear which you found.
I thought the worst part was finding the indicator wires in the white quadlock plug, top left.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Yes the indicator plug was a bad one, although I did takenote that the air ducting unclips easily to reveal better access, anyway I digress, totally confused now. Am I looking in the wrong plug (C3), I have the Blue as Unlock, and that goes to 12v when the van is locked, if you neg pulse it it unlocks the front doors, so I take it that works. I have the Violet/Brown (C3) as rear doors, this works if you pulse it once on unlock and then again via Aux output boot release. lastly I have Grey/blue as lock, this does not work. C3 does not contain Blue/Brown or Grey Orange, so is it that my van is different, or is it another connector (not C3)???

Just for info the toilet manufacturers do "test" every toilet to make sure it "works", however they use plastic sausages and paper to test, but not at the same time, thus when we fit a 10 grand bathroom it is too much too ask for a toilet that flushes everything away without leaving the paper, and yes I have spoken to them about it and their comment was that "that's how we test, one thing at a time only", amazing !

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If you don't know how to do it then ask someone who does

News update.

After my brief lesson in "central locking confangalism" I have progressed past the not getting anywhere stage!

Have located in C2 what I guess by the cable size will be the relay outputs to the locks. I have:

Grey/Brown pulsing to +12v on Lock and Deadlock.
Blue/Brown pulsing to +12v on Unlock
PURPLE / Orange pulsing to +12v on Deadlock and unlock

Lock and unlock I get (as per 5 wire two ground leg system), guess the gem box represents the CDL relay and loom goes to the motors, so cut and connect as per Universal Motor instruction.

As for the Deadlock I am a bit unsure why it pulses on unlock, is this normal??? not sure if deadlock is a solenoid or motor. My worry is that if it sits at ground will I need to disconnect the loom from the GEM box when I put 12v down it via my relay, or am I going to far.

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If you don't know how to do it then ask someone who does

In a word yes. 5 wire. Hold your fire, I'm waiting on someone sending me a wiring diagram, you should get one motor wire pulsing on lock, the same plus another pulsing on deadlock a third on front unlock and a fourth plus the third on rear unlock.
All the motor wires sit on ground so you have to isolate them via a 5 wire set up. The gem box holds the relays.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

The confusion comes from my data sheet as this is working on the inputs to the relay box (connector below the indicator plug), in this respect it works fine other than no lock/deadlock input. I am tempted to keep my connections for the unlock and double unlock as they work fine, and double neg pulsing for the rear unlock is easier this way since I can do this with a few diodes. As for the lock I will add a relay to use my neg pulse from the alarm to +12v pulse the lock side, thus disconnecting the neg leg from the relay box as I imagine it needs. I know the alarm unit has the relays inside to do this all but I need that doublepulse for the rear doors and the wires are already done. I will hang fire for you in case my ideas are wrong. Back down halfords for another 15A fuse I suppose.

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If you don't know how to do it then ask someone who does

OK, I have added my "locking" relay, and this works fine, I think I will leave it at that since the "unlock" pulse will not overide the deadlock, so I will use the OEM keyfob when doing this, unless anyone has a better idea.

Next issue, am I correct in saying that dual zone microwave detectors will not pass through heated screens? I have set mine up just right except no detect zone at front of van. Due to the highly expensive bodykit for which I purchased the alarm to protect, I had allready cabled up a loom to the front of the van. I was going to mount a dual zone shock sensor (in a waterproof box) in the front bumper, but I think I can add another microwave sensor, as this area is shielded from the first by the bulkhead and screen. Anyone see a problem here?

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If you don't know how to do it then ask someone who does

I finally got the wiring diagrams yesterday afternoon, after someone sent me the earlier ones with wrong colours.
First two may be the wrong way round, TEST.
Motor wires.
Lock Grey/brown. B 24
Deadlock Violet/orange. B23
Unlock FRONT Blue/brown. B12
Unlock REAR Yellow/violet. B8
Possible low current trigger wires
Grey/Blue lock. C7
Blue FRONT Unlock. C16
GREEN/ violet Rear unlock. C5
All yours. Dead easy.
Front cabin roof mounted single or dual prox won't work in the cargo area if there's a metal division.
Front bumper might if not under metal.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Thanks for that, not sure what a low current trigger wire is (hurtled over my head), I think I will tinker with the setup I have now as in my last thread you will see the unlock problem. Did you read my last post through, this is a full windowed van with no bulkhead, but a heated screen, I think this stops the outside microwaves just like an oven door (plumbers understanding) or faraday cage if you are a scientist. Anyway point is can anyone see an error in mounting a microwave sensor behind the grille pointing out to warn passers by at the front.???

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If you don't know how to do it then ask someone who does

The unlock is simple, it's called priority unlock. separate front and rear. The 606 will handle this (just).
Low current triggers = terminal 85 of the lock relay (internal to the GEM box) when 86 and 87 are pos, 87a is grounded and 30 is the output.
Place your existing prox in the centre roof.
Yes you're right about the screen and the front end or one in the rear roof and one in the front roof linings. The signal will still transmit through everything bar the front windscreen.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Thankyou howie for all this info, I am much the better now with all this. one thing I am not sure about is the deadlock, does this operate as a motor separate to the lock function, ie first power the lock with a +12v leg pulse, then +12v leg pulse the deadlock? And will powering the unlock direct to the motor, unlock this deadlock (does this even make sense???)

The reason I ask is if +12v leg pulse unlock will overide the deadlock then it will be worth doing, but as it is at the moment I am using what I think is the low current unlock input to the GEM box (sorry if my lingo is a bit poor here), this does not overide the deadlock, I guess ere that this input is similar to trying an internal handle when inside the van on deadlock, that is that it wont work.

In a nutshell

1. Is powering the deadlock the same as lock, with the Aux from the alarm +12v after the lock ?

2. Does simply powering the unlock motor direct, unlock a deadlock, or is it more complex ?

3. Is santa real ?

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If you don't know how to do it then ask someone who does

1) Yes use a timed aux set for 4 seconds thus:-
White, programmed to operate on arming and the time set for 4 seconds to 85.
20amp fused 12v+ constant to 86 and 87.
GEM side to 87a.
Door side to 30.

2)Yes, use the inbuilt relays for lock and unlock, use the above for deadlock and the trunk release wire thus:-
Blue/Black to 85.
20amp fused 12v+ constant to 86 and 87.
GEM side to 87a.
Motor side to 30.

Using the front or rear unlocks will free off the deadlock. You can still have ignition lock which won't deadlock the vehicle.

3)No because I'm Jewish and Chanukka, Xmas, Eids etc. etc. simply took the place of the Pagan winter solstice festivals all over the world.
I did hear a lovely one about a p****d off Santa and the Fairy though.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

What do you mean no Santa, I know he exists, I saw him in Selfridges on Saturday.

Happy Hanukkah

I think we made a big loop here, my data sheet also showed Grey/Blue as low current Lock, in my van this tests as no change, and does not respond to a neg pulse, maybe it's something to do with it being a minibus design.

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If you don't know how to do it then ask someone who does

Ah you just found out about my Saturday job.
Having tried that in previous years, even with a disabled sticker, there's no way I would even try Selfridges that close to Xmas.
I was in the Harlequin in Watford on Sunday and that was bad enough, I used to live in off Brent Street in Hendon, this time of the year I walked to Brent Cross.
Had to do a job on West Molsely yesterday, nearly 2 hours to get back to Boringwood via Twickenham and the North Circ, Wembley and Stanmore.

OK don't forget on that vehicle you will often have two wires with different functions just look at the BLACK/ blue wires in the passenger floor loom of a pre 07 Mondeo or at the GEM box, ditto Transit Connect, pre 2010, driver's floor loom 3 x blue/black, one is the door trigger.
Generally the the thinner wires would be lock triggers (= 85) and the slightly thicker motor wires(= 30).

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I am starting to follow that on the wires, I did wonder if the working unlock trigger wire had a different system to the motors, as when locked the wire stays at 12v, when you pulse it with 0v it unlocks the front and drops t to 0v, and will stay at 0v until you lock the doors again. I pondered the concept of pulsing 12v on the same wire when it was sitting at 0v to see if it would lock the doors, but I hate that feeling you get when you bust something expensive.

My gut feeling is that the system must be something like a flip/flop circuit, as only 1 wire changes state in the low current side when locking/unlocking.

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If you don't know how to do it then ask someone who does

Forget all that c**p but using a DMM, this is the tried and tested old school method.
Use a Snap-On or similar, only use the Snap-On if this is your living, you can buy a cheaper semi-throwaway in Halfords for much less as long as it has an incandescent bulb, the reason being that for none data the bulb draws enough to trigger and if you are probing a wire "sitting" on 12v+ to earth you won't damage the circuit.
You can even pick up a side light unit off a wreck and solder/crimp a croc clip to one side!
Then close all but the passenger door, flip over the catch on the rear of the door so that it locks and unlocks then test.
Those wires are NOT flip-flop, you're simply seeing the pos coming over from the GEM internal lock/unlock relays which don't have diodes across the coils. Take a relay then wire pos to 86 and neg to 85 the relay will obviously activate, now disconnect the 85 side and test probe you will see 12V+ at 85. Now do you get it?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

hi im new to this site ive got a transit connect van 2004 im trying to install remote locking to it ive found the central locking module located by the fuse board and found the lock/unlock wires which ive tested showing 12v when locked and 12v when unlocked ive applied 12v to the lock wire but it does not lock or unlock when voltage applied to unlock wire i would say this is a positive control system any help would be greatly apprrechated thanks

Last post, o4 Connect.
You're about as wrong as you can

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Sorry sent off last post too early.
04 Connect.
Look at the two left hand plugs, BLACK/ dark red is lock and BLACK/ green unlock front BOTH NEG PULSE.
Too unlock the rear you will need the motor wires* these should be yellow/black and yellow, WHITE/ black and white in the adjacent plug.
All sit on ground at rest, one of them will go to 12v+ on side and rear door unlock for 0.8 secs. Cut this wire.
Use an aux output from your alarm which is what by the way?
Take it to a relay via an inline diode 1N4004, band to alarm, to 85.
GEM side of cut wire to 87a, motor side to 30 12v+ constant 15 amps to 86 and 87.
One of those 4 wires mentioned also lights up for 0.8 secs. when you deadlock the vehicle via the factory fob.
Set up an aux wire to activate with arming, timed for secs. and feed a relay via the diode as above.
You can only perform this with a Clifford or Viper with multiple aux. outputs.
*On some, probing as explained previously can find a NEG wire which will trip the side/rear, I only ever found it once.
Whilst you're there blue and blue/red in the middle are your indicators.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.