2001 bmw 330i lock/unlocking

I have recently had a friend that brought me a 2001 BMW 330i. I installed a clifford 770 blackjack alarm. The issue I am having with this car is that the lock/unlock won't work correctly. For example I need to unplug the battery to reset everything and the lock/unlock function would work properly but after my friend would drive the car and arms the car, the doors won't lock or the locks would start clicking lock/unlock three times. Should I put a diode to the wires of relays?

-------------
Just cut ur frame and drag the thing!

Driver's kick panel, door return cable, RED / blue unlock and WHITE/ black lock, NEG pulse. Use only those and diode. N.B. Check I've got it the right way round, I haven't looked at one since yesterday.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Another thought, disconnect the alarm brain lock wires and see if this still happens. The lock units have a microwave positioning switch inside. If this goes wrong you can loose the locks and window close.
Also the door tubes, has there been any door damage and replacement. I'm thinking of leads getting mangled in the door/trunk lid feeds, they chafe and short or open circuit as you go over bumps, potholes etc.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I am going to check it tonight. for right now I am going to disconnect the lock/unlock pin from the alarm to see what it does just as you you said Howie.

-------------
Just cut ur frame and drag the thing!

For the record, I have been reading the past posts and other threads on this as well. I also am having problems finding the correct wire. I did take off the drivers door kick panel and found the white wire with the black stripe. I connected the ?trigger wire? to this with with no action. When I touch this wire (twice) directly to a ground, the system activates. I have tried the blue wire with the red stripe and got the system to activate with the door open button, but I don't feel comfortable using this method.

Car 2001 BMW 325Ci Convertible
System Stellar remote start 1050

It's designed to use the key fob door lock button.

I am about ready to give up. Thoughts or ideas from the BMW guru's?



-------------
I'd rather do it once slow than twice fast.

To the last poster, those are the correct lock and unlock wires you simply use your fob and press twice or even three times, you set that up via the remote start tell me what and where you've connected the other wires please.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I read your post Howie. You are the BMW GURU. Here is your answer

12 volt hot went to the 12 volt hot in the ISH
Starter went to the BLACK/ blue wire in the ISH
The 12 gauge Acc wire went to the purple (ignition 2) in the ISH
My two grounds are grounded well.
The small ignition 2 and acc 2 wires are left unconnected.
Positive wait to start is going to the 12 volt constant.
Brake, parking lights, and hood pin are ok.

Like I said, if I take the trigger wire and tap it twice on the cig lighter or keyhole, the system activates.

Thanks again for you help. If you are open to calling, 630-327-2700. My name is Chuck. Any and all help is appreciated.

Hope your holiday weekend is going well.

-------------
I'd rather do it once slow than twice fast.

oops, I just noticed you are in the UK. I also use skype. wallawalla210 is my skype name.

-------------
I'd rather do it once slow than twice fast.

You have the ACC wrong.
Don't connect the R/S output to the car's purple ACC wire.
Wire it up as ignition 2.*
Also what by-pass are you using?
I suggest a 556UW, wired Euro style, i.e. no loop, direct wire.
In it use the grey valet key.**
Tach is on your data socket adjacent to lower dash dome light, black, pin 9.
* Like the only other car I can think of, some Porsches, the ACC actually takes a role in engine start and it doesn't "dump" on crank.
**If you wire it as an ACC, it won't get power from the R/S until that unit recognises that the engine is running, therefore it MUST be wired up as ACC 2.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Do me a favour, it's 10:15pm here and I'm just catching up on the week's TV, my best pal just came back from his 3 times a year 6 weeks in Fla., now my Sis is off to the Caribbean, I'll be talking to her via Skype for the next 3 weeks, my daughter's off to New Zealand, more bloody Skype, on my damned cell-phone as well.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Hi Howie,

Thanks for all your help. I gave up on the stellar remote. I purchased another one from directed electronics. It came with everything and the instructions were so much better. I got it working in less than three hours.

I do still need your help, however. I saw your comment "a 556UW, wired Euro style". This unit came with a transponder wire and somehow I think you know my next comment. I put that damn transponder in every which way buy loose and I couldn't get the car to recognize it. It is a loop transponder. I don't have a valet key, but I will order one next week. I am using the second full size key. I found the two wires coming off of the key area and have determined that this is for the transponder signal. I disconnected them and the car would not start.

Questions on the transponder:

1. Please explain wiring euro style.
2. Can I take this two wire loop and wire it euro style?

If I can't hook it up this way, I will purchase the model you recommended.

I also need to bypass the clutch. I found the wire that needs to have a positive signal to bypass it. I do not have a positive output that would energize only when the remote start is being used. Right now I am using the ignition wire, but as you know, it bypasses the safety switch when the key is on. I would like to avoid this if possible. I do have a negative signal coming from the remote starter. This is connected to the transponder.

Any thought on how to accomplish this would also be appreciated.

Thanks again and all of us Beemer owners should be thankful for people like you.


-------------
I'd rather do it once slow than twice fast.

ONLY use a 556U with a valet key. It has full instructions for Euro style use. Cut off the loop and cut one of the car's two, join each end to two of the three by-pass wires and solder the third to the other, blue by-pass wire to your status output, red to 12v+ constant and black to ground.
Valet key is recommended because use of the normal key in the box will affect the locks especially in manual transmission reservation mode.
As for the clutch switch use the second status (GWR) wire or if only one, diode separate them, "Y" shape, bands of diodes (1N4004) towards R/S then relay a pos to the clutch switch.
Same principle for relay aided trunk release, RED / white trunk release, to 85, 86 and 87 via a 5amp fused to constant 12v+, 30 to grey/light green in the passenger floor loom level with rear of front passenger seat, very hard to find. (87a not used)
Let me know if this is an alarm or an alarm/RS, I have more relevant info for you.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

It is a remote start only.

Here is a link to the unit. https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Ready-Remote,-Remote-Car-Start-Designtech_10035499-P_N3534_A%7CGRP2021_____

There is no marking on the bypass unit, but it is made by Directed Electronics. I believe that is the same company that makes the 556U. I will hunt down and purchase the 556U. I found the instruction manual for the 556U online. The 556U has three wires going to the transponder loop, the one that came with the remote start only has two wires.

Thanks again

I guess I need to wait until I get a valet key and the 556U before continuing. I will still wait for any other advice.

-------------
I'd rather do it once slow than twice fast.

I don't know if this unit has car lock and unlock but if it has does it have comfort close? Let me know either way.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

It does not have door lock and unlock. It has one button for remote start. I didn't read anything about comfort lock. So, I have to assume it does not.

-------------
I'd rather do it once slow than twice fast.

OK, my 556U arrived today and I am going to finish this project.

Howie, et al, does it matter which one of the two factory transponder ring wires that I tap into. It is not specified on the instructions for the 556u. Here is a link to the instructions that I will be following.

https://assets......com/manuals/directed/556uw.pdf

-------------
I'd rather do it once slow than twice fast.

No.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Thank you

-------------
I'd rather do it once slow than twice fast.