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type r central door lock system

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=127867
Printed Date: March 29, 2024 at 5:51 AM


Topic: type r central door lock system

Posted By: rahsengan
Subject: type r central door lock system
Date Posted: July 09, 2011 at 5:29 PM

I have a 91 Toyota Corolla and I'm trying to install the system. I am able to connect the rods and actuators alright, but when I plug the wires in and press the lock/unlock buttons on the remotes, nothing happens. I have already read some threads showing the same lock system, but I still cant figure out what's wrong.posted_image
There is the diagram, but there is also a black wire on the back, do I need to connect it to anything?



Replies:

Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: July 09, 2011 at 7:36 PM
GROUND

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: rahsengan
Date Posted: July 10, 2011 at 3:45 PM
You know which wire I'm talking about right? because if it's what you say, I need to ground two wires? I know the diagram shows the black wire and that it needs to be grounded, but what isn't shown on the diagram is ANOTHER black wire coming out of the opposite side of the box, and I want to make sure I know what to do with it because it is not shown on the diagram




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: July 10, 2011 at 4:52 PM
Ouch! Sorry, since it's a keyless I assume that's the aerial.
N.B. Only connect the 5 wires to driver's door motor, connecting to the passenger side will cause positional and switching problems, it will try to unlock itself as you lock and vice versa.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: rahsengan
Date Posted: July 10, 2011 at 5:03 PM
It's alright, just wanted to clarify, and so you're saying that extra black wire I just leave hanging? And thanks for the help, much appreciated.




Posted By: KarTuneMan
Date Posted: July 12, 2011 at 12:27 AM

One of those black wires should be heavier than the other.... and stiffer. (maybe) Thats the one you DON'T ground!



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Posted By: rahsengan
Date Posted: July 15, 2011 at 3:43 PM
ahh yeah thanks for the help, I'm new to this kind of thing, but I got it all working. One thing though, maybe a stupid question, but will connecting the aerial wire to the radio antenna increase the range of the remote?




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: July 15, 2011 at 3:52 PM
No you will ruin reception on both. They operate on completely different frequencies. A military radar antenna might help, that's a similar frequency, about 400mhz.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: rahsengan
Date Posted: July 17, 2011 at 3:20 PM
Ahah alright, thanks. It's just that the range is really short but I guess I get what I payed for.




Posted By: rahsengan
Date Posted: August 17, 2011 at 1:43 AM
I was finally able to install the locks, but I'm not very good with it, and recently my car battery died. I've connected the box to the battery itself and did not connect the brown and white wires to anything. could it be the reason the battery died or just coincidence?




Posted By: 91stt
Date Posted: October 03, 2011 at 10:19 PM
If the unit is operating properly, than connecting it to the battery would not be a problem. The brown and white wires are used to manually trigger the central locking, so it is unlikely to cause any battery drain issues. To determine if the unit is causing a drain, you need to check the current draw with an ammeter. At rest it should only draw several milliamps. Any more and you have a faulty unit. If you still have a battery drain problem, you will need to conduct a quiescent current test to see if you have an excessive current draw. Typically, it should not exceed 500 mA.

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This information is provided only as a reference.
All circuits should be verified with a digital multi-meter prior to making any connections.




Posted By: rahsengan
Date Posted: October 10, 2011 at 2:32 AM
wait, so im supposed to connect the brown and white wires too? because when i tried to connect them the system wouldnt work. when i left them alone the system worked fine




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: October 10, 2011 at 2:54 AM
The brown and white in turn trigger either the lock or unlock, they are on the same circuit as the brown and white going to the door actuators. The would be connected to a keyless entry system or alarm if you installed one.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: 91stt
Date Posted: October 10, 2011 at 1:34 PM
After rereading my response, I realize that I did not make myself clear.
The brown and white wires that are not connected to the doorlock solenoids are used to trigger lock and unlock operation when they are grounded separately either by a switch or keyless entry system. The particular operation of each wire will depend how the solenoids are installed. In some cases, the ground outputs from a keyless / security system does not provide enough grounding to trigger an event. In which case you will need to install relays.
Often times one of those wires will show ground depending on the position of the solenoids. When the solenoid is moved to the other position the other wire will show ground. You will only get ground on these wires if you have connected the black, white and brown wires at the solenoid.

-------------
This information is provided only as a reference.
All circuits should be verified with a digital multi-meter prior to making any connections.




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: October 10, 2011 at 3:47 PM
91stt..500ma from a 91 Corolla, I'd guess nearer 40ma! But then from the various questions asked I don't think our poster understood about draw tests anyway.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: rahsengan
Date Posted: October 10, 2011 at 9:01 PM
thanks for the replies. well i do understand testing with an ammeter, but at the moment i dont have one with me so i cant test it. my question is, do i need to connect those brown and white wires(which says its supposed to be connected the vehicle hull on the diagram i guess?) to anything or would they not make a difference? i will try to get an ammeter to test the voltage but i just want to make sure im connecting everything the right way in the first place




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: October 11, 2011 at 2:17 AM
NO!!! Unless as previously stated by 91stt and myself, you either have an alarm or a keyless entry. If not tape them up, do NOT connect them to the vehicle ground. Hull? or is that from the Chinglish instructions.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: 91stt
Date Posted: October 11, 2011 at 3:12 PM
howie good catch, I must have fat fingered it, it should have been 50ma. Thanks for keeping me honest :)

The brown and white wires shown in the diagram are connected to a set of switches that go to ground (hull). Unless you want to operate the locks with an external switch or a keyless entry system, those wires should be insulated and carefully tucked away. If you connected the black, brown, and white wires at the solenoids than you do not need an external switch. The solenoids have built in switches to operate the central locking feature.

-------------
This information is provided only as a reference.
All circuits should be verified with a digital multi-meter prior to making any connections.




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: October 11, 2011 at 3:27 PM
With my fat fingers all I can say is thank the gods for spell-check!
I don't think our poster is either understanding or listening, if you constantly grounded either brown or white you would simply activate the lock/unlock. The relay (although I prefer the MES blue relay, much better quality) SHOULD time out after three seconds, also if it didn't it would burn out the actuator before it flattened the battery.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: rahsengan
Date Posted: October 11, 2011 at 11:27 PM
sorry if i dont seem to be listening, but i dont fully understand all this so bear with me @.@ so are you saying the actuator wouldve been dead before the battery? does that mean the battery mightve coincidentally just died, or maybe the locks are defective and drawing too much power? should i just get another relay?




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: October 12, 2011 at 8:13 AM
You can test the relay. When you actuate the lock side the green wire should go to 12v+ for about 0.8 seconds.
When you actuate the unlock, the blue should do the same.
Both sit on ground or 0v (NOT hull!) at rest.
Battery probably co-incidental. If the relay were constantly powering up it would train the battery (say 7.5 amps per motor and 63AH) in about 1.5 hours with 4 power locks, 3 with 2 power locks but as I said you're more likely to burn out the motors.
Mechanically the trick is to mount the actuators so the locks move smoothly with no sticking.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: rahsengan
Date Posted: October 12, 2011 at 11:10 PM
ahh alright, i see. i guess it was coincidental since i had the locks plugged in for about 2-3 days before the battery died. also the sticking seems like it could have been the problem since the back door actuators were hard to mount so they might be sticking. i will check everything out, thanks so much for all the help guys!





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