bicron alarm/remote start

I just purchased a bicron vcs 7000a to install in my 98 accord 4cyl ex. The alarm work fine the only problem is I have four wire leftover (which I am told is normal)a 10 A (-) output during engine running a 100 ma (1) output during start (crank) and orange wire which goes to starter kill relay #85 and a wire that is (+) for door trigger (I have a - trigger). Also in the six pin connector with the larger guage wires the yellow wire says "connect to the output line from starter relay" and then it goes to a box that says restarter. Am I doing something wrong I have 10 years custom audio and video experience but this is my first shot at an alarm. The wiring diagram for the alarm is available at bicron-alarm.com
Than
MD_MEDIC

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John S. Dittmann, NREMT-p

I am not familiar with that unit, but going by the ( loosely translated ) install guide...
The heavy gauge Yellow wire can be connected directly to the Accords BLACK/ White Starter wire.  If you
want the optional "Starter Kill" feature you will need a 30/40A SPDT relay.  The wiring for the relay is:
Relay Pin 85 to R/S Pin 5 Orange wire ( 12 Pin connector)
Relay Pin 86 and Accord Ignition wire BLACK / YELLOW
Relay Pin 30 to Accord cut Starter wire - Vehicle side
Relay Pin 87A to Accord cut Starter wire - Ignition switch side
Relay Pin 87 to R/S Pin 3 Yellow ( Heavy gauge 6 pin connector )

Does the Accord have a transponder immobilizer system?  ( Will a plain metal key start and run the car?)
If it has the transponder chip in the ignition key, you will need a bypass module to get the car to remote
start.  The PURPLE / Black wire is probably used as a "Ground When Running" signal to control the bypass module.

Also note that the '98 Accord has two Accessory wires and your R/S has only one Accessory output.  To
wire up the ACC2 circuit would require a 30/40A relay.  (The R/S does have two Ignition outputs but the
Accord only needs one, so the heavy gauge White wire would be unused.)  Here is a link to the DEI site for the wiring guide :  https://www.readyremote.com/main.asp

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Soldering is fun!

Thanks for the info. The oddest thing happened I switches it from manual to automatic and it started (I have a manual) but only for five-7 second then it shuts completely off then starts up again and it does this over and over. They say it has to do with the tach wire (-) but when I measure it at the tach wire in the engine bay it registers between 1.42v at idle and then on up to about 8v at 4k rpm. When I connect the tach wire and measure the voltage at the plug with it in the alarm it registers a full 14v with no fluctuation with engine speed. I am measuring the voltage with the negative probe and the positive hooked directly to the battery. Thanks for all your help. Alarms are greek to me.

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John S. Dittmann, NREMT-p

Going by the manual, connect the WHITE/ Black wire to the verified tach source and then cut the "Tachless loop" wire.  Not sure what you have to do to a Tach Learn.  Perhaps start the car with the key.  Then try a remote start.

The user manual doesn't show any procedure for manual trans reservation mode.  How does it know that it
is safe to start the car?  Just because all the doors are closed and the hood is shut doesn't look too safe to me.  Did you bypass the clutch interlock switch?  I see some liability issues here.  Might be best to call the manufacturer and ask some questions.  Don't let the customer use it until you verify that it is safe and can't be started in gear....

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Soldering is fun!

Update:  The User Guide does describe Manual Transmission Remote Start and how to enter into
reservation mode.  While the guide states that opening the drivers door will cancel Reservation
Mode, opening any door monitored by (-) Door / Hood Trigger wire or the (+) Door Trigger wire will
cancel Reservation Mode.
The unit itself does not monitor the Parking Brake or have a Neutral Safety input.       Most remote start
systems do require the use of Tach Mode when running in Manual Transmission Mode.

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Soldering is fun!

According to the12volt.com wbsite the WHITE/ black wire is the ignition 2 wire. According to the DEI website it is the second accesory wire which one is it?

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John S. Dittmann, NREMT-p

According to Bulldog Security, the WHITE/ Black is Accessory2 .
 ACCESSORY /HEATER BLOWER 2   WHITE/ BLACK (+)    @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS

According to DEI it is Accessory2.
 Second Accessory    WHITE/ black  +       ignition harness

According to AudioVox it is Ignition2.
 Ignition 2     WHITE/ BLACK  (+)      IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS (ABS LIGHT)

Another site lists the WHITE/ Black as Accessory1 with no Accessory2, but they have the Yellow wire
listed as Ignition2....

The only sure way to tell is testing with a Digital Multi Meter.  An actual Ignition wire will stay at
+12V during engine cranking while an Accessory wire will drop from +12v to 0v during engine cranking.
Ignition Switch       OFF        ON      START
Ignition wire            0V        +12V     +12V
Accessory Wire      0V        +12V         0V
Starter Wire             0v            0V     +12V
 

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Soldering is fun!

The latest it I got it to start and run for 5-10 sec then it shuts off for 5-10 seconds then restarts then runs for 5-10 sec then shuts off again so on and so on. Anyway when I do the remote start and then turn the key to the run position every 5-10 sec you can hear the starter cranking like it doesnt know the car is running and my tach does not work. but when I disconnect the tach wire from the brain the tach works fine. The person I ordered it from is supposed to be sending me another brain


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John S. Dittmann, NREMT-p