2007 hyundai entourage door lock

Have a CA4051 One Button add on Remote Start in a 2007 Hyundai Entouage. The issue is as follows - The van has power sliding doors which are controlled via the factory key fob. I want to continue using the factory fob for all it's features (lock, unlock, sliders) and the one button add on for remote start and defrost activation only. However, this model van puts the factory fob to sleep anytime the vehicle is running. So, I can't control the door locks via remote and have to walk to the car and key the door open manually. The big downer comes with pit stop mode - once the car enters pit stop mode it forces the doors unlocked and you cannot relock them. Basically, does anyone know if this feature can be disabled or bypassed on the van manually? If I could find a work around that would allow for the factory fob to work with the current set up, it would be great!

I put a call into Audiovox and they claim I can use a Flashlogic module which will allow for controll of all OEM functions via the OEM keyfob. Can anyone confirm this? I'd like to keep the CA4051 in the van because it functions nice and I am currently using the unlock output on it to trigger the front/rear/mirror defrosts and flash hazards for confirm.  

Thanks in advance for anyone that can assist.

This note was copied from techservices.audiovox.com   

REQUIRES A DOUBLE PULSE TO UNLOCK ALL DOORS ON SOME MODELS. DOOR LOCKS FALL ASLEEP WHILE VEHICLE IS RUNNING MUST US DATA MODULE TO AVOID THIS

On some vehicles you can cut a wire to make the keyless module not be able to see the ignition power wire.  This vehicle appears to not have a way to trick it.

Thanks, that's what I thought. I was hoping there would be a way to trick the IPM Module into thinking the car was off.

I did come up with a partial trick though - the vehicle will allow you to lock the doors while running if it thinks the doors are all closed. If you were to use a switched output while running, you could have it hold the door trigger so the van thinks the door is shut. That would allow for pit stop, but you still won't be able to use the keyfob.

It looks like a data module will be ordered unless someone else knows of a way to trick the vehicle into thinking it's off? Even if I had to cut a wire, I could simply use the active output to trigger a relay which would switch it only open while running.

Thanks for the reply

Well, I got the data module installed today and it added nothing to the mix. It's actually worse now as the doors all unlock upon remote start, which they didn't before. The OEM remote is still asleep during remote start as well. Can anyone off any advice? I've got days and countless hours into this install and am no better off than the initial install. In fact, at least without the module the van left the doors locked. Note that it does re-lock the doors if I abort the remote start. Any help or tips from those that have done one of these vans would be geatly appreciated! Thanks in advance.

This is a follow up on this install. Forgot all about asking this because the vehicle is mine and wasn't a pressing issue.

The install is done with a Flashlogic (iDataLink) module for door locks and I've noticed that when I unlock and the module sends an unlock command that the parking lights flicker instead of giving me the two solid flashes and the Parking Brake dash light flickers in unison on the cluster. It only does this while running under remote start and no other time. Has anyone else encountered this or is it just a side effect of the databus module? Thanks for any input. Otherwise the unit is functioning fine (Code 5050)

the door locks on this vehicle are not the greatest to do. i did one of these awhile ago. you have to connect 2 wires to the arm/disarm, then you have to solder 2 wires onto the actual circuit board in the door switch, then diode isolate those 2 wires and connect to arm/disarm.
you need to run 4 wires into the driver doors. unless you use a data module.

if you want to retain factory keyless, you have to go to the "RAM" module as they call it. its in the left rear side of the vehicle. you have to interrupt a wire in the right side plug. i forgot what colour it was since its been a while. its the wire that goes to 12v when the key is turned onto ignition.


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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Sorry to hear that the flawed documentation got you into a lousy situation. I just went to the Audiovox site and red the same misleading/confusing information you did.

I've never seen any Entourage/Sedona where the factory keyless could be used during remote start, regardless of which data module is used.

I've always done these vans using a 5-button remote starter like the Pursuit PRO9276C or the identical (but remotes look different) Prestige APS687C, both made by Audiovox (same company that makes your Code Alarm 1-button). The new remotes have individual buttons for lock, unlock, start, left slider, right slider. You can also have panic by pressing and holding either Lock or Unlock (but, due to poor product design, must also leave the programming menu so that the unit also beeps the horn every time you remote start.)

In the above scenario, the factory remote still works when the car is turned off, but the customer would typically keep it stored away until it's time to sell the car. The new remote duplicates all factory functions, plus starts the engine too.

As far as the van unlocking when remote started, I'm just curious. Did you use the data-to-data cable with the Code Alarm unit, or did you hardwire all the connections to the module? Was it a Flashlogic-branded module? FLCAN probably?

The only thing I can think of that you might do to keep your 1-button in there, would be to, as tedmond said, gain access to whatever module incorporates the factory keyless, and try cutting ignition wire(s) and see what happens. You might luck out, or it still might not work even with the wire cut.

I swapped out the one button for a 4 button - my question is now I get odd parking light flicker when the module unlocks while running under remote start (the parking brake cluster light flickers as well). This is using W2W with the data module because I use the trunk release to activate the front/rear windows defoggers. Just wondering if this is a characteristic of the FLCAN module.

Are the parking lights connected manually or through the bypass? I haven't seen many bypasses that integrate the lights so that most likely needs to be connected manually. The quick flicker you see may just be the factory response to the sent signals.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

as kenny suggested, not many bypasses integrate parking lights. What most bypasses do are send factory door lock/unlock codes through data. The vehicle picks them up as "factory remote" codes, so it triggers the keyless entry module. Inside the keyless entry module it also controls parking lights.

this is apparent on most japanese and select domestics.



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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Well it seems to be the way the bypass module handles the door locks. I can live with it as everything works properly/ I was just wondering if others have encountered the issue.

Why not just manually connect the parking lights? Should be pretty simple.

Parking Lights-      blue      -      headlight switch or IPM, blue 72 pin plug, pin 69
Notes: The IPM (Instrument Panel Module) is part of the fuse box under the driver side dash.


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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

The lights are manually connected at the IPM. Again, they only flicker in unison with the Parking Brake light while running under remote start. Lights are normal under all other conditions. It's only a quick flicker while the lock motors are firing too. Seems to be a firmware glitch.

That is weird.

Does your van have automatic headlights that come on at night? If so, do you use that feature? As in.....is the switch set to "off" or "auto?"

If it's set to "auto," just out of curiousity, try putting it to "off" temporarily and see if things change.

The reason I ask is because, at least on the identical-to-your-van Kia Sedona, the negative parking lights wire is non-functional if the switch is left in "auto." On a couple of customers' cars, I had to test for and find the auto wire and interrupt it with a relay during remote start, to get the parking lights to come on.

It has the auto lights, but I don't use them. This all could be avoided if Hyundai didn't have the factory FOB's go to sleep while the vehicle is running. Ideally, I would have had the one button add on start and still been able to utilize my factory fobs with slider control.

hy there to all im Juyce,this forum is realy great,sorry if this isnt the right place to make one question.Anyway is about my door locking:
I have a Mk3 Mondeo with 3 wires negative door lock system,i have seen on this forum various ex,and diagram(wireing is similar to F.Focus)but cant figured out witch 2 of 3 wire are the one i need to hook up the viper 5901 because i have yellow,yellow with black stripe and white with black stripe.Testing it with the multimeter it seems yellow is "permanent ground" either "double lock" .I really apreciate all comments thx