viper, dei 530t, 97 ford explorer

I just finished installing the 530T in my 97 Explorer, and it doesn't seem to work correctly. When I turn the key on and use the buttons, they work fine (express up, express down).
When I arm or disarm the alarm system, they move about 1-2 inches, and stop. If I short the up or down wires to ground (to manually trigger them), they do the same. I've adjusted the dip switches to the low, medium and high settings, to no avail.

I have the two 'ground path' wires directly grounded, I also have the 'low current' ground wire directly grounded. Have I wired this incorrectly?

What's the colour of the "low current ground wire" and where have you grounded it to, i.e. in the car or in the doors?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

The low current ground is a grey wire on the h2 harness (looks like about a 20 gauge wire), and it's grounded to the frame

Read the instructions! The grey wire is used to by-pass sensors, nothing to do with operation.
When you say grounded to the frame, are you talking about the vehicle frame or the door frame. The wires to be grounded are black and violet/black.
Use a heavy gauge power source such as the battery or fuse box battery supply.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Ahhh, so the grey should tie into the alarm somewhere.
I disconnected it, and i have the same issue. The drivers side has a one touch down, but I can't figure out how to bypass it. Could that be the issue? The passenger side has no one touch but also doesn't work

Again, read the instructions. Wiring should go directly to the motor wiring in each door. Do not ground in the door.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Each wire is attached directly to the motor, or switch, as per the instructions. The only thing grounded tto the frame is the black and purple wires

Can I get an answer from you about the frame? Door frame or an existing bolt in the car? And it's the motor wires in each door, yes?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Yes, door frame. I ran a bolt from the frame of the vehicle to the door with a jumper wire, so I have a solid ground connection.

The module is inside the door, despite the directions saying not to do so to avoid water damage (I've got the module inside the plastic liner, up against the vinyl door cover, so I'm not concerned about water permeating the window seal, the plastic liner below the window, and the foam/plastic liner on the door).

And the wires for the drivers window run to the motor, the wires for the passenger window (which has no express down or up feature) are run to the switch on the drivers side control (small gauge wires) and the wires that run to the motor (heavy gauge wires).

So undo everything, mount the 530t in the car, take the passenger side as well as the driver's side to each motor and run all power and ground direct to battery then sit down and read the instructions properly.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Despite my misgivings, I did what you said. I ran wires to each motor and switch, ran ground and hot DIRECTLY to the battery, and, surprise, it didn't solve my issue.
I have read the instructions. Several times. And, aside from putting the module in the door, I've followed them to the letter. I've wired the module into the drivers side switches. All switches work, and the drivers side switches provide one touch up/down on both windows, when the key is on. The system is wired properly, I'm 100% sure. The issue is that when I ground the 'window up' wire, they don't go up. They go up as long as I have the wire grounded, but once I release it, they stop. My dad had one of these put into his vehicle, and once you ground the 'up' wire, it rolls the windows up all the way.

Again, when I press the down button on either window with the key on, it works perfectly. When I press the up button on either window with the key on, it works perfectly. When I ground the window down wire, it drops about 2 inches, then, if I continue grounding it, it rolls all the way down (regardless of whether I disconnect the 'down' wire or leave it connected).

Next suggestion

The down part is correct, touch once and it vents about 2", hold for about 3 secs. and they open all the way. Absolutely OK so we have to look at the "up" orange wire. Connect this too the GWA, orange if DEI. It will then work. Again as per the instructions.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I did connect it to the ground when armed, and I get 1/4" of movement before it stops. Same thing when I touch the wire directly to ground. Moves until I release it from ground

OK, then it seems to the problem is with the GWA. Are you using this for any other functions?
Frankly if it works when you are grounding the 530t orange wire, then in theory it should work when connected to the alarm's GWA wire!
Either the alarm's GWA wire is faulty,
you've connected to the wrong wire,
It isn't sinking enough current to ground the 530t orange wire.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Well, apparently, the wiring diagram sheet I had was either wrong or modified. I had the GWA on the wrong wire, wrong wiring harness. I attached it to the correct wire and voila, it works.

Not sure why the admin locked my post and told me to post to something that is UNRELATED, but here it is:

I'll have to trace down my wires and post it. I have used a DMM to double check the wiring.

Something I did notice is that I get +12 on the H3/1 wire from the moment the key is turned on, through cranking, and when the engine is running with the key on.

I actually had to disconnect this wire to keep the starter from engaging when using the remote start. I reconnected it and disabled the remote starter while I'm attempting to solve this problem, but I feel they may be related.

So that everyone knows what's going on here:

I attempted to install a Viper 5901 into a friends 97 Ford Explorer. All went well, except the system doesn't seem to recognize that the ignition is on. Remote start works, door lock/unlock works with the alarm arm/disarm.
The reason I know the system isn't detecting ignition is because if the alarm is triggered, and I disarm it, I hear 4 chirps (meaning an alarm triggered in my/his absence) as opposed to 2 (standard disarm). According to everything I've read, when you start the car, it should clear the previous triggers. When I disarm the system after starting it, I still get 4 chirps. This will continue until I unplug all +12V inputs and wait 30 seconds.

Also, I can't use the valet button programming method (which involves leaving a door open, turning the ignition key on, and pressing the valet button), so I'm pretty sure it's the ignition sense issue again.

Now I've already shorted the H3/1 wire (ignition sense) to +12V directly, no result.

The following is how I have the wires all connected:

H3/1 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 GREEN/ Purple

H3/2 RED / WHITE (+) FUSED (30A) Yellow

H3/3 ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT Gray / YELLOW

H3/4 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE) RED / Light Blue - cut

H3/5 GREEN (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE) RED / Light Blue - cut

H3/6 RED (+) FUSED (30A) Yellow

H3/7 PINK/WHITE (+) IGNITION 2 BLACK/ Green **Viper programmed for Accessory2

H3/8 PINK/BLACK (+) FLEX RELAY 87A Not Used

H3/9 RED / BLACK (+) FUSED (30A) Yellow

H3/10 NC (no connection) Not Used


When the H3/1 wire is connected to the specified wire, and I engage the remote starter, the vehicle starts, but also grinds the starter. When I disconnect this wire, it runs fine. In neither case does the system reset or detect that the key is on or engaged.

A thank you to everyone who responded to my plea :-) turns out, the heavy gauge h3 harness from the 5701 and 5901 had the ignition input output wire in the wrwrong slot. There's ten spaces, 9 wires. The solid pink was in the area marked n/c. Switched it to the right spot, works like aa dream.