2006 toyota matrix dash removal

Hey all so I am planning to put a CM3000 into a 06 Matrix in the next few days, I was looking at the car trying to plan out some stuff before time. To access under the dash + ignition wires etc. is a nightmare. I just want to know if any of you have any tips or advice before approaching this.

It seems as though the whole top of the dash needs to be removed, along with the steering wheel + instrument cluster and much more. I will link to the PDF where I found instructions. Is this really what any of the shops would do to install a remote starter/alarm? Seems like a crazy amount of work.

Also after everything is removed, how is one suppose to test wires such as ignition, accessory, starter etc. Isnt this a bad idea to start the car / have the battery hooked up with no cluster or steering wheel?

Thanks for any advice and help

PDF For Dash Removal
goo.gl/KOmmF

Go to your local stereo shop and purchse the installation kit along with the wiring harness.  The kit will have instructions to remove the dash.  The wiring harness will be color coded to match up with the wires of your aftermarket radio.

"Is this really what any of the shops would do to install a remote starter/alarm"

I think removing the lower portion of the steering wheel I will be able to get at most things i need, its just a tighter fit.

According to the 12volt wiring diagram for the Matrix, it says the White 12v constant wire is fused at 25A. Does anyone know where I can find a non fused wire ?

Actually popping the instrument cluster usually 4-6 screws is the easiest way to go!
Normally on most Japanese vehicles there's enough room to install the unit behind it and run your wiring down from there so it's all properly stealthed.
I wouldn't dream of saying this about a German car but on a Japanese vehicle of this age disconnecting the dash whilst testing shouldn't be a problem, I always do it this way on Japanese cars.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Ref lower portion of steering wheel I'm assuming you mean the cowling, again quite normal, probably the best way to get at the looms, ignition etc. Of course if you're worried use the continuity part of your DMM.
Mr. I we're talking about an alarm/RS not a head unit

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I did not catch the part about the remote start.  I thought he was trying to change the radio.  Pay attention to Howie.  I am an Idiot.

Thanks howie for all the help! I will defs look into putting it behind the cluster. Any idea where to get 12v constant?

Main battery lead to internal fusebox, probably white or white primary, or ignition switch loom.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Those cars aren't too hard. It does seem at first that you're going to have a lot of trouble with the dash, but it doesn't really get in the way much at all.

Well, unless you're trying to do a super-stealth install and hid everything....then it would get trickier, I would think.

Anyway.....

Take off the lower half of the steering column shroud, the driver's kick panel, and the driver's door sill. Optional---pop out the change pocket on the left of the driver's dash. It's easy and lets a little more light get into the underdash area.

Prep your brain so that all of your ignition wires are together, and so that they're long enough to reach from where you intend to put the brain, to the wires that plug into the ignition switch. I usually zip-tie the brain high up above the driver's kick panel.

Then you can just pretty much let the brain sit right on the floor of the car, run your (already prepped and bundled together) ignition wires up there, connect them......after you're done, zip-tie them along the steering column wiring harness.

Other stuff I can randomly think of:

---TEST the ignition wires (of course!), then make notes so you know which is which, and then if you unplug the igniton harness you can stretch it out straight, cut into the factory tape a little bit, and then you'll have enough room there to make your connections.

---The trim around the instrument cluster pops off, then one screw at the top of the cluster, then two "hooks" that hold the bottom of the cluster in. Sounds hard but you'll see it's easy when you go to do it. Lower your tilt steering all the way down, lay the cluster down sideways so you can see where the wires go in.......tach is a black wire....I want to say it's the black that's right next to a RED / white....it's been a while.

---The trunk-release switch, you can reach in from behind where you removed the change pocket, and push the switch out.

---When you go to find the doorlock wires in the kick panel, just take a close look at everything in that area before you start, and you can clearly see that a bundle of wires comes in from the driver's door and goes to two plugs. The lock wires are in one of the plugs.......green and blue / YELLOW? Something like that. They test while turning the key back and forth in the exterior key cylinder of the driver's door.

---Along the doorsill there's a harness running to the rear of the car. Green positive parking lights, GREEN / WHITE brake, and RED / yellow door trigger. There are two GREEN / WHITEs; test carefully. The RED / yellow catches all five doors, including the rear hatch.

---If you have to run wires under the hood, there's a big factory grommet above the gas pedal. If you look at the other side under the hood, you'll see what looks like a "nipple" off to the side. Cut the tip of the nipple off, and you can pass a coat hanger or old car antenna through there to fish wires through. Under the driver's dash, the steering linkage is totally exposed.......wiggle the steering wheel and make yourself aware of the linkage, so you'll be able to run your wires across without danger of them getting caught up.

Great reply as usual Chris, I wonder if the moderators could transfer this to the hot topics section under "rookies and all those seeking advice" topic. The points you made are very relevant especially ref the steering column and fouling of cables, standard rule: cable (zip)tie to secure AWAY from moving parts.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Thanks howie and chris both for all the tips.
Yesterday while looking at the car I had the kick panel off and found all the wires you referenced.

Your post Chris would definitely be helpful for any rookies looking to improve, I know it sure gave me some things to think about. This will be my 7th car I am doing a remote starter/alarm in and I find with everyone you never really know what to expect. Even though the process is the same, it always seems a bit different how to get at the wires or where to mount the brain.

Thanks both for your time.

The point is; subject to you removing the panel both the positions Chris and I mentioned will work! My installation point is that here in Europe, it's primarily the alarm then the RS. Alarms have to conform to codes of manufacture and wiring and are rigidly tested in the UK. If you can be bothered, Google "Thatcham Car Alarm Test Procedures". Therefore the stealth mount, all joints soldered etc. etc.
I even have fabric looming tape to equal what the Germans use ex factory.
As a point of interest in Nissan, behind the instrument panel is the alarm, separate RS plus a Parrot kit! Dropping the instrument panel will easily access lights, door triggers if you have the icons on the dash for door ajar etc.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Definitely an interested read Howie.
I took out the instrument panel tonight just to poke my head in and have a look around.

Will all the wire colors be the same for things such as Tach? Triggers? etc?

I have been looking for the main battery lead that goes to the internal fuse box, I circled a wire in a picture that I think might be it. I wasn't feeling brave enough to test it in case it was something different. Any ideas if that is it? The picture is posted at the link below.

https://i.imgur.com/abW1Q.jpg

That is looking in where the instrument panel should be, you can see the big connector in the top right of the photo.

Ryan

Yes.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

ok so got everything in and everything except one thing works. I can unlock and lock the doors using the compustar remote. But not when the car is remote started or started with the key. I used the wires it says in the kick panel.

Any idea why?

Thanks

Was there anything in the instructions about a keysense wire?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Only for the bypass but I haven't got it yet so its not in right now, waiting on UPS. I did find the key sense wire. When remote starting I had the key in the ignition. But then if I remove the key and the car keeps running it still won't lock or unlock.

Connect it to your status aka GWR wire, I believe black on that unit, when you go to share it with the by-pass, remember to diode separate the wires, i.e. black wire 2 inline 1N4004 in a Y shape, one to the keysense, the other to the by-pass, UNLESS the by-pass takes care of the problem.
Try leaving the key in, also if you haven't yet installed the by-pass why even bring this up? Wait.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Yeah I plan on just waiting. That is leaving the key in, so just worries me that's not the problem.I will put the bypass in Monday or Tuesday and report back. Does it make sense even if I am leaving the key in for it to not work?

No but try what I said. It also disarms the factory alarm during remote start which may be the reason you can't unlock the doors with the Compustar remotes.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

This car is really ease if you have done 6 remote starters before. you may not need a bypass either, for unlock program double pulse.

The car won't start without a bypass just cranks forever. I could wire up a relay to use a spare key or program a new one but I rather use a bypass. And as for unlocking, I know it requires double pulse, I didn't wire it like that though. I have drivers door priority. So two unlock presses unlocks all the doors. I'm not sure if you read the previous posts but I said unlocking and locking works fine as long as the car isn't started.

@Howie:
I get that you were getting at now, I'm just gonna wait for the bypass. Thanks for the help.

Does it crank forever because of no by-pass, i.e. the factory immobiliser is holding it off or you haven't programmed tach?
I'm pretty sure you've done it correctly but I just wanted to be clear in my mind.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Yeah its for sure the immobilizer because as soon as I push the in the ignition column it starts.