2010 tundra, viper 5301
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=128306
Printed Date: May 21, 2024 at 2:13 AM
Topic: 2010 tundra, viper 5301
Posted By: lmbbuilders
Subject: 2010 tundra, viper 5301
Date Posted: August 21, 2011 at 5:46 PM
Okay, 2010 tundra with factory alarm, Looking to install a viper 5301 remote start only...I think I have figured it out....Could someone look it over and verify that I have this correct.
H1/1 Not connected H1/2 +12 V Constant H1/3 To truck horn White 24 pin plug (pin 11) H1/4 Not connected H1/5 Chassis Ground H1/6 Not connected H1/7 Not connected H1/8 < color=#ff0000>???????????????? < color=#ff0000>(see notes) H1/9 Not connected H1/10 Not connected H1/11 DB Pin 18 and J4 Pin 23 H1/12 Not connected
Door lock 3-pin Connector 1 Blue ....NJ2 pin 6 2 Empty...Blank 3 Green...NJ2 pin 7
H2/1 < color=red>< color=#ff0000>?????????????? < color=#ff0000>(see notes) H2/2 Not connected H2/3 < color=red>< color=#ff0000>?????????????? < color=#ff0000>(see notes) H2/4 Not connected H2/5 Not connected H2/6 Not connected H2/7 Not connected H2/8 Not connected H2/9 OBD Pin 9 H2/10 Keysense (gray) and pkall (blue/white) H2/11 Not connected H2/12 Not connected H2/13 Not connected H2/14 Not connected H2/15 Hood switch H2/16 Not connected H2/17 Switch @ Brake pedal (orange) H2/18 Ground
H3/1 J9 pin 1 H3/2 +12 V Constant H3/3 J9 pin 2 H3/4 J9 pin 7 H3/5 +12 V Constant H3/6 J9 pin 6 H3/7 Not connected H3/8 +12 V Constant
< color=red>< color=#ff0000>Note 1< color=#ff0000>...Door trigger input...can I connect just the drivers door or do I have to connect all 4 doors like mentioned in the 5901 alarm/remote start install? < color=#ff0000>< color=#ff0000>Note 2< color=#ff0000>...which one do I use...The Factory alarm disarm output < color=#ff0000>OR< color=#ff0000> Factory alarm arm output to pin 86 on Auto Headlight relay
Replies:
Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: August 21, 2011 at 7:07 PM
A few corrections. Always verify all wires with a DMM....
H1/1 RED / WHITE (-) TRUNK RELEASE H1/2 RED (+)12v CONSTANT INPUT +12V constant Black @ Dash Fuse Box 140A H1/3 BROWN (-) HORN OUTPUT Violet wire @ White 24 Pin plug PIN 1 H1/4 WHITE/ BROWN LIGHT FLASH PIN 87a H1/5 BLACK (-) CHASSIS GROUND Chassis Gorund H1/6 VIOLET (+) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT* NA - use (-) door trigger H1/7 BLUE (-) FACTORY HORN INPUT H1/8 GREEN (-) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT* BROWN (-) @ BODY ECU, (WHITE, 26-Pin Plug) Pin 24 H1/9 BLACK/ WHITE (-) DOME LIGHT OUTPUT H1/10 WHITE/ BLUE (-) REMOTE START H1/11 WHITE PARKING LIGHT OUTPUT Tan @ Headlight Switch ***Set Viper Fuse/Jumper to (-) H1/12 ORANGE (-)GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT
H2/1 LIGHT GREEN/ BLACK (-) ALARM DISARM Pink wire @ DKP Blue 17 Pin Plug Pin 16 *** Set Viper for Double (-) Pulse H2/2 ORANGE / BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 4 OUTPUT H2/3 GREEN / WHITE (-) 200mA OEM ALARM ARM H2/4 VIOLET/BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 2 OUTPUT H2/5 WHITE/ BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 3 OUTPUT H2/6 WHITE/ VIOLET (-) 200mA AUX 1 OUTPUT H2/7 GREY/BLACK (-) WAIT TO START INPUT H2/8 BROWN / BLACK (-) HORN HONK OUTPUT H2/9 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT Black wire @ OBD Pin 9 H2/10 DARK BLUE (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT PKALL GWR H2/11 PINK/WHITE (-) FLEX RELAY CONTROL OUTPUT H2/12 ORANGE (-) 200mA ACCESSORY OUTPUT H2/13 PURPLE (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT H2/14 PINK (-) 200mA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT H2/15 GREY (-) HOOD PIN INPUT (N/C OR N/O) Hood Pin Switch H2/16 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS Light Green Keysense *** Viper default 2nd Status H2/17 BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT Tan wire @ Brake Pedal Switch H2/18 BLACK/ WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY INPUT Chassis ground *** if Auto Trans
H3/1 PINK IGNITION 1 Black @ Ignition harness H3/2 RED / WHITE (+) FUSED (30A) Black @ Dash Fuse Box 140A H3/3 ORANGE ACCESSORY OUTPUT Gray @ Ignition harness H3/4 VIOLET STARTER OUTPUT Green @ Ignition harness H3/5 RED (+) FUSED (30A) Black @ Dash Fuse Box 140A H3/6 PINK/WHITE (+) IGNITION 2 Light Green @ Ignition harness *** Viper default = IGN2 H3/7 PINK/BLACK FLEX RELAY INPUT 87A N/C H3/8 RED / BLACK (+) FUSED (30A) Black @ Dash Fuse Box 140A
*Door trigger input is needed if one of the following are used: MTS, passive arming, auto re-locking, door ajar error honk or Smart Key control.
*Factory Alarm Disarm (test at driver door key cylinder) double - pulse Pink wire driver kick panel, blue 17 pin plug, pin 16 ------------- Soldering is fun!
Posted By: lmbbuilders
Date Posted: August 21, 2011 at 7:45 PM
Thanks Kreg...few more questions...
on H1/11...you stated Tan @ Headlight Switch ***Set Viper Fuse/Jumper to (-), but On a different forum a member wleeb used DB pin 18(head lights) and J4 pin 23 (parking)...Whats the difference there?
Also on H2 the arm and disarm wires...Wleeb used the Alarm Arm...Just wondering whats the reason to use the Alarm Disarm?
Also on H2/16 what is the reason putting my keysense on there rather than on H2/10...both say -200 ma status?
Again...Thanks alot!!! I hope to have it installed this weekend.
Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: August 21, 2011 at 8:06 PM
As you are noticing there are many ways to accomplish the goal. In the case of the Viper controlling the vehicles Parking Lights, there are wires that can be used with a (+) signal and other wires that need a (-) signal. I usually try to use the most convenient (-) wire. The Viper has an internal Fuse/Jumper that selects which type output its' White wire will have. Most remote starter systems only use the Parking Lights ( for command confirmation and while the vehicle is remote started ).
If your Tundra has a factory alarm, you will want the Viper to be able to turn it off. Usually necessary prior to a remote start and an unlock command.
You can use the H2/10 Blue (-) Status Output for both vehicle wires but you must diode isolate the keysense wire ( band towards the Viper https://www.the12volt.com/diodes/diodes.asp ). This prevents the normal startup ( inserting key into ignition ) from supplying a (-) signal to back to the PKALL and making it think a remote start is about to happen ( and to do it's transponder bypass thing ). As long as you are not using it for the Defroster, using the extra (-) 2nd Status wire does the isolation for you. ------------- Soldering is fun!
Posted By: lmbbuilders
Date Posted: August 25, 2011 at 4:28 PM
Thanks Kreg...I got everything sorted out and made as much soldering connections on the bench before installing this weekend... I triple checked the diagrams to make sure...and taped up the unused wires as to not get them mixed up. The only question I have right now is the is on the Viper sytem they have to options...-200ma factory alarm disarm and -200ma factory alarm arm...I looked on the DMM sheets and it states Blue 17 pin plug pin #16 which is the same as you mentioned above...but Some people went to pin 86 on the AUTO H/L interrupt relay...just wondering if it is nessary for that or what is the reason before I get down into it. Thanks again...Lance
Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: August 25, 2011 at 6:48 PM
Haven't done a 2010 Tundra, so hopefully someone who has can chime in. Here is additional info from the usual sources.
Bulldog: FACTORY ALARM DISARM PINK to BLACK (-) (Requires Double Pulse), NOTE #2 in DRIVERS KICK PANEL, (BLUE, 17-Pin Plug) Pin 16 NOTE #2: TEST this wire while turning the Key in the Drivers Door, this wire will also Unlock the Doors.
AudioVox Alarm Disarm BLACK & PINK (-) MAIN BODY ECU USE BOTH WIRES, TEST THESE WIRES WHILE TURNING THE KEY IN THE DRIVER DOOR CYLINDER, DOUBLE PULSE WILL UNLOCK ALL DOORS
DEI Factory Alarm Disarm pink (driver door key cylinder) double (-) driver kick, blue 17 pin plug, pin 16
Should be easy enough to test. DMM set to 20 VDC, Red lead on +12V constant, Black lead on suspect wire. Turn the key in the drivers door cylinder. Meter should go to +12v with disarm.
Not positive, but the "Auto H/L relay" sounds like they are disabling the Auto HeadLight feature during remote start. On vehicles with auto headlights, if you leave the switch in that position, when you remote start the vehicle after dark, the headlights will come on and the R/S will turn on the Parking Lights... ------------- Soldering is fun!
Posted By: Mike M2
Date Posted: August 25, 2011 at 7:24 PM
You don't want to use the pink wire in the DKP for disarm as it will also unlock the drivers door. To disarm the factory alarm all you need do is connect the keysense wire as kreg states above to the staus output wire on the Viper. This will disarm and keep the doors locked...
------------- Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services
Posted By: lmbbuilders
Date Posted: September 01, 2011 at 12:21 AM
Okay...got it installed...the good thing is the door lock and unlock buttons work...the bad news is the remote start does nothing...I press it and and my key fob makes a buzzing noise then my lights flash on and off...about 7 times....I've read that you have to have it in automatic mode...tried to program that a few times...Not sure if It took it or not....I also tried to put my key in the ignititon...then tried to remote start...turned the key on...then tried remote start...then turned it to acc and tried to remote start....no luck with that...Thanks in advance...I hope its an easy fix.
Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: September 01, 2011 at 3:49 AM
Seven flashes means the Viper is still in Manual Trans Mode. See page two of this guide : https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=711 Keep trying....... ------------- Soldering is fun!
Posted By: lmbbuilders
Date Posted: September 01, 2011 at 10:15 AM
Still no luck....I have been over and over with the automatic setting procedure...it seems like it is taking it but I still get the same 7 flashes....Also....My truck has the immobilizer on it...but my key just has a dot on it...no G key....I called up expresskit...and they have two ways to wire up the immobilizer....one is connection 7 on page 8 and the other is on this link..
https://www.xpresskit.com/Documents.aspx?productid=196
..I had it connected as per the link because it pretty much was the same way as the xk05...I'll try to wire it up the other way....The only thing is....where is the wires for the Tx and Rx?...It says its a black pin....connection 4 and 5...
Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: September 01, 2011 at 3:38 PM
That harness is on the ignition key cylinder as shown in this install guide : https://www.xpresskit.com/DocumentDownload.aspx?documentid=6237&productid=196&firmwareid=1636
Wire colors should be : ( For orientation, Pin 3 is empty. 7 pin connector ) Pin RX Pin TX 4 Light Green 5 Blue ------------- Soldering is fun!
Posted By: lmbbuilders
Date Posted: September 07, 2011 at 2:12 PM
Kreg...everything went good. Thanks for all the help. The only issue I have so far is..I accidentally pressed the remote start button and didnt know it and when the truck turned off....it left my headlights on. Any way of fixing that issue? Also..when I remote start it..and then drive down the road...my key fob makes some beeping noise...and a green led lights up along with a red led...nothing happens...it justs makes this noise once or twice then I notice a click from the immobilzer bypass click. Is this normal? Thanks, Lance
Posted By: hackerbeavis
Date Posted: November 30, 2011 at 9:12 AM
If you set the options on the unit so that it re-locks/re-arms after a remote start shutdown, it should take care of the headlights being left on.
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