Printer Friendly Forum Posts - remote start on 2011 dodge challenger

Thanks, because this thing has been driving me crazy( lol) The xpresskits company told me today that they have a 2011 dodge challenger in their shop that they used the DB-ALL, firmware 401.CHRYSLER 3.10 hooked up D2D. They said they hooked the Tach from the DB-ALL to the remote starter and it works. When I try this I get the "tach voltage is to low" on my 2-way lcd when I attempt the remote start. then I have to go through the remote start manual transmission program sequence all over again. why does mine does this, am I missing something?

has anyone hooked up remote start on a dodge challenger 2008-11 d2d using xpresskits db-all? also did you have to use the tach wire from the remote starter to an fuel injector? when I use d2d w/o hooking up the tach to an injector but to the dball bypass I get a message on the 2way remote that says "low voltage".( the tach) I wanted to avoid going to the injector wire under the hood.

has anyone with info on this?

have you tried using voltage sensing? or my personal favorite on any new car, NO SENSING. turn every sensing type off and set your crank time for probably the minimum time possible because more than likely the starter wire input is simply a pulse to the vehicle computer which then tells the car to start itself. i rarely ever have problems when doing this on any new car.

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soundnsecurity wrote:

have you tried using voltage sensing? or my personal favorite on any new car, NO SENSING. turn every sensing type off and set your crank time for probably the minimum time possible because more than likely the starter wire input is simply a pulse to the vehicle computer which then tells the car to start itself. i rarely ever have problems when doing this on any new car.

Ive only tried d2d using the DB-ALL bypass module instead of w2w. when I try to program the remote starter to manual mode since I have a 6 speed. It say on the remote "low tach voltage" which people said I just need to go to the injector wire. is the no sensing the best way to hook it up?

Not familiar with the Python unit, but two things come to mind with Viper systems.

1. You must be in Tach Mode if you are installing the unit in a manual transmission vehicle. Here is a note for a Viper Install Guide :

Note: The tach wire must be connected and programmed for the manual transmission mode to work.

2. The Viper units have jumpers on the side of the brain for Tach Threshold. Does your Python unit have this? Here is the note from Viper :

                   In most cases, this jumper can be left in the Off position. Some new vehicles use
                   less than 12 volts in their ignition systems. The unit may have trouble learning the
                   tach signal in these vehicles. Changing the jumper to the On setting changes
                   the trigger threshold of the digital tach circuit so that it works with these type
                   vehicles.

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Soldering is fun!

TROC4434 wrote:

Thanks, because this thing has been driving me crazy( lol) The xpresskits company told me today that they have a 2011 dodge challenger in their shop that they used the DB-ALL, firmware 401.CHRYSLER 3.10 hooked up D2D. They said they hooked the Tach from the DB-ALL to the remote starter and it works. When I try this I get the "tach voltage is to low" on my 2-way lcd when I attempt the remote start. then I have to go through the remote start manual transmission program sequence all over again. why does mine does this, am I missing something?

I had this issue when using "voltage sense" and "virtual tach". The problem stopped when I connected a physical tach wire to one of the fuel injector wires. I was using the XK01 bypass module which was suppose to have a tach output through the data wire, but unfortunately the Viper 5901 that I was using doesn't read the tach over data. So my suggestion, connect the tach from your remote start to your injector wire.

kreg357 wrote:

Not familiar with the Python unit, but two things come to mind with Viper systems.

1. You must be in Tach Mode if you are installing the unit in a manual transmission vehicle. Here is a note for a Viper Install Guide :

              Note: The tach wire must be connected and programmed for the manual transmission mode to work.

2. The Viper units have jumpers on the side of the brain for Tach Threshold. Does your Python unit have this? Here is the note from Viper :

    In most cases, this jumper can be left in the Off position. Some new vehicles use
    less than 12 volts in their ignition systems. The unit may have trouble learning the
    tach signal in these vehicles. Changing the jumper to the On setting changes
    the trigger threshold of the digital tach circuit so that it works with these type
    vehicles.

the python 592 and the viper 5092 2ways have the same brains and features. I did set the system into tach mode. my problem is getting it to remote start to work hooking it up using D2D like expresskits says I can do. They said when they (xpresskits)installed the DB-ALL
they did it D2D without any problems on a 2011 dodge challenger. I dont understand why I have to use the tach wire from the remote starter when they just hooked their tach wire to the bypass.

TROC4434 wrote:

the python 592 and the viper 5092 2ways have the same brains and features. I did set the system into tach mode. my problem is getting it to remote start to work hooking it up using D2D like expresskits says I can do. They said when they (xpresskits)installed the DB-ALL
they did it D2D without any problems on a 2011 dodge challenger. I dont understand why I have to use the tach wire from the remote starter when they just hooked their tach wire to the bypass.

You should be able to use the tach wire output from the DB-ALL. I also believe the brains for the python 592 and viper 5902 are the same brains as the viper 5901 and corresponding python. The only difference is the color transmitters. You could purchase color transmitters and use them on the 5901. (I think...) This may be a stupid question but have you tried learning the tach signal? This is a step that a lot of people miss. I don't know the extent of your knowledge.

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By the way, it was brought to my attention, on your abbreviation for circuit you use "CKT". There is not "K" in circuit. Should this possibly be CCT? - R. Robson

hahahahahahaha

groundzero2010 wrote:

TROC4434 wrote:

the python 592 and the viper 5092 2ways have the same brains and features. I did set the system into tach mode. my problem is getting it to remote start to work hooking it up using D2D like expresskits says I can do. They said when they (xpresskits)installed the DB-ALL
they did it D2D without any problems on a 2011 dodge challenger. I dont understand why I have to use the tach wire from the remote starter when they just hooked their tach wire to the bypass.

You should be able to use the tach wire output from the DB-ALL. I also believe the brains for the python 592 and viper 5902 are the same brains as the viper 5901 and corresponding python. The only difference is the color transmitters. You could purchase color transmitters and use them on the 5901. (I think...) This may be a stupid question but have you tried learning the tach signal? This is a step that a lot of people miss. I don't know the extent of your knowledge.

I had the tach output wire from the db-all hook to the remote starter tach wire from the the python brain. which it doesnt work( "low voltage" response shows on my 2-way). Ive already done the learning tach signal. I was just seeing if I could avoid hooking the remote starter tach wire directly to the fuel injector. but it weird how it worked on xpresskits dodge challenger that they installed the db-all on using d2d without hooking it to the injector without issues. maybe i will just tap into the injector wire and hook it up that way. I really wanted to avoid this, thats why I hooked it up D2D vs W2W.

Straight from the mouth of a dei rep at a remote start training. "When installing on a manual trans car, the tach has to be hardwired to the vehicle."

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Advanced

dasbogie wrote:

Straight from the mouth of a dei rep at a remote start training. "When installing on a manual trans car, the tach has to be hardwired to the vehicle."

thanks, I will try this. I already have the tach wire from the remote starter routed out to the injector, just never hooked it up. I wanted to see if I could get the remote starter to work through data to data using the DB-ALL bypass module. I think the reason xpresskits got the DB-ALL to work on their 2011 challenger is because it was an automatic transmission. But they claim they did it on the 6 speed challenger with this module. I dont believe what xpresskits tech guy say. He refused to give me any other info on this matter because Im not a authorized dealer for viper. but I buy what I need for a job im working through my distributor. I dont stock alarms systems, I build custom cars which most of the times already have a alarm system in unless it comes right from the dealership. Im thinking about to start using I-Data Link stuff instead.

i think you need to change the tach threshold jumper link someone said. i was thinking that it might have a setting like that but its been forever since i touched a viper alarm and had to deal with these kind of problems.

honestly, if you want to avoid physically hooking up the tach wire to the injector and you cant get the digital tach to work then you need to do what i was telling you and just switch the engine sensing option to off and set the crank time for the minimum.

tons and tons of installers will swear up and down that a physical tach connection is the only way to go, and honestly it is usually the most reliable when it comes to long term use. the only problem with the way i am suggesting is that is the remote starter fails to start the engine then it will not know it.

so what happens is the the electrical system stays on without the engine running for however long you set the run time for. with any other setting turned on the remote starter will keep trying to start the engine for a period of time, which can also be a blessing or a curse because if it just wont start and it keeps trying to crank the starter over and over then you will come out to a dead battery.

but, with engine checking turned off, the car will only crank once. this is perfect for new cars with computerized ignition systems. if you can turn the key to the start position for just a moment but the car continues to crank until the engine starts running. if you have this kind of system and the remote starter wont start the car with engine checking turned off then there is probably something wrong with the car itself that is causing the factory computer system to not be able to start the car in one shot. if you live in a very cold place then cold starts might also become a problem for the remote starter and this is the only real situation that i really recommend using the tach wire.

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D2D is not as reliable as W2W I NEVER use D2D. The Tach output on the DB-ALL is a strong Tach signal when connected W2W and will work great. You cant switch to Tachless start on that RS because It has to see a physical Tach signal to remote start a Manual car. IF you use W2W it will work fine.

I have yet to have a problem with d2d, besides the fact that I get the install done much quicker. Im using Xpresskit and Omegalink currently, Omegalink seems to be a little more reliable, they also offer more features on the multi platform bypasses than xpresskits. Idatalink is the same company as omegalink but they use just 3 bypass modules. Seem to work ok but have had issues, such as failure to learn pk1.

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1 12" mtx 9500 4ohm dvc 1 8100d and 1 1501d almost loud enough to cover the sounds of my car dying.

Well I did mine D2D because I wanted to use the oem key fob to work with the python 592. usually I wire cars W2W, but Ive always have done automatic cars. which I used virtual tach when installing W2W. but since the dodge challenger is manual I could not use virtual tach. everything works(the alarm, unlock, lock, trunk aux ect) in D2D except the remote start. It un programs when I go through the manual remote start setup, then the 2way reads low voltage. so now I know the only way its going to work right is to hook the remote start tach wire to the injector rather then the bypass module tach wire. thanks guys for all your feed back.

Im still having the same problem. Today I hooked up the tach wire from the remote starter to the fuel injector wire still does not work. It says " low voltage" on my color lcd after doing all the step to setup the remote start. I have the brain set to manual mode and already did the learn tach. what could be the problem? Im using the db-all bypass d2d kook up.

still having issues with the remote start not working. could the tach threshold jumper cause this issues Im continue to have with the remote start? still get a "low voltage" on my 2 way screen.

Did you try changing the tach threshold jumper yet? It sounds to me like that is probably your problem...

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

offroadzj wrote:

Did you try changing the tach threshold jumper yet? It sounds to me like that is probably your problem...

I tried this morning programing the system again, still same error " low voltage" I search the options on my bit writter to see if there is an option for tach threshold, found nothing. I looked at my python 592 brain to see if there is a jumper anywhere on there, found nothing but the jumpers for the d2d and w2w jumper when using bypass. im lost with this, where is the jumper for tach threshold? it crazy, because when the car seems like it going to turn over the engine, but stops. it try to start the car 3 times and then says "low voltage" on my 2way remote. the parking lights flashes 7 times.

the tach threshold jumper is usually on the side of the brain on the pythons. Its a small black connector. There should be one for parking light polarity and one for tach threshold...

Edit: I stand corrected. It is normally on the side of the brain, but looking at the install guide online it doens't appear to be there any longer. I'll keep looking and see what I can find.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

offroadzj wrote:

the tach threshold jumper is usually on the side of the brain on the pythons. Its a small black connector. There should be one for parking light polarity and one for tach threshold...

Edit: I stand corrected. It is normally on the side of the brain, but looking at the install guide online it doens't appear to be there any longer. I'll keep looking and see what I can find.

Is it a physical location on the brain, or something i have to program using the bit writter?

On the older units it was similar to the D2D jumper, but looking at the diagram online, it looks like they got rid of it. I can't seem to find out how to change it on that unit.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

When you learned the tach, did it give you the confirmation that the tach signal was learned? Try learning it again but this time way 5-10 seconds after starting it to tell it to learn. That will allow the engine to "level out" and give a more accurate tach signal.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

offroadzj wrote:

When you learned the tach, did it give you the confirmation that the tach signal was learned? Try learning it again but this time way 5-10 seconds after starting it to tell it to learn. That will allow the engine to "level out" and give a more accurate tach signal.

yes the brain made clicking sound to confirm.

could the bypass I'm using cause issues with the car starting?
(db-all xpresskit)

I'm honestly not 100% sure because I've yet to use that bypass, but I wouldn't think so. Especially since you hardwired the tach. Did you try relearning the tach after waiting a few seconds?

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

it says I have to start the car, within 5 sec press and hold program button for 3 seconds then release once light goes solid. so you are saying leave the car running? or turn car off?

just tried the tach program again, same issue "low tach". could my bypass just need an update, I see on xpresskits website that they have a newer firmware for my bypass. I should be able to take the bypass out the car and try to update it via the internet to see if that could fix the issue Im having the the tach low voltage. Their website sates it fix an tach issue on the wrangler and nitro, but said nothing about the
challenger. https://www.xpresskit.com/product.aspx?productid=461

The new firmware for my car is 401.CHRYSLER.402-firmware. my current one that on the bypass now is 401.CHRYSLER.V3.12.08

Its worth a shot. Do you have the XK Loader to update it?

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

offroadzj wrote:

Its worth a shot. Do you have the XK Loader to update it?

yes, I have an xk loader and the xpresskit vip desktop software to load the firmware. when I unplug it from the car to update it the the xk loader, do I have to reprogram the db-all bypass in the car when I hook it back up?

Again, I don't have experience with them, but I would assume so. I believe when you update the firmware you are basically clearing it out... but I could be wrong. It shouldn't hurt to reprogram it anyways.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

I will give it a try today, if this doesnt work..I dont know. Ive never had problems with the auto installing remote starters, but this is my 1st manual car. It sucks because xpresskit customer service wont give me any info at all because Im not a viper dealer. But I do order from my dei from distributor so I dont have to stock a lot of products since I only do custom audio, air suspension stuff. I do alarms and remote starts once in a while.

fixed my remote starter, It works finally. I went online to expresskits to look at the install guide for the DB-ALL bypass module again. I notice the install guide was different from the one I downloaded months ago for the 2011 dodge challengers. The newest guide at the ignition you only hookup can low, can high and ignition( which you have to cut in half for wire one side to car side and the other to key side). which on the old install guide tells me to hook up 4 wires at the ignition can low, can high, ignition and 12 volt. In which the 12volt wire had to be cut also like the ignition wire, in half. The 12 volt wire was the issue, thats why the 2 ways kept reading low voltage on my 2 way in manual mode and automatic mode. Thats the reason the car would never crank. I kept telling the xpresskits tech support guys there is something wrong with the wiring diagram manual months ago, they thought I was crazy. Im just glad I got it to work. I also had to update to the new firmware also. I still have the tach wire hooked up, but I will see if I unhook it if it still remote starts for me. thanks guys for all your input for this issue.