Printer Friendly Forum Posts - troubleshooting, porsche boxster 2001s

Thanks for replies, I would appreciate some help with troubleshooting.

I have installed as follows:

CN1
ACC - not connected
Starter - to yellow (via relay)
Ignition - Black
Ground - ground
12v constant - RED / white
12v parking output - grey/black [left side parking lights]

CN2
Output to starter kill - Blue from starter relay
Parking light output #2 - not connected yet
Ebrake input -- not connected yet
Foot brake input -- not connected yet
2nd ignition output -- Connected to pin 85 of relay 2 and relay 3. pin 86 and 87 of both are connected to 12v constant.
pin 30 of relay 2 - Orange (ign #2)
pin 30 of relay 3 -- BLACK / YELLOW
Door trigger -- not connected yet
Tach -- PURPLE / green tach wire

CN4
unlock output - BROWN / red
lock output - blue/black

Every wire seemed to test fine. The car now starts fine (and I have cut the starter wire). Those that are not connected I just deferred until I had at least the programming and doors working.

But the brain is not programming -- i have tried cycling the car on/off 5 times and then pressing my remote over and over. I don't get any response at all when i cycle the ignition key (no lights).

Can I get suggestions for troubleshooting?

Just a few things to check, I am sure you already have but sometimes they need to be asked.

- You are doing on/off 5 times in less than 7 seconds right?
- The antenna is plugged in?
- You have the proper antenna and remotes?

lol.
yes to all 3.

...i'll go back and retest voltages with my dmm tomorrow. what are the minimally necessary but sufficient leads (ie, the ones I should test), if anyone knows? i'm guessng constant 12v, starter, ignitions 1-3, and antenna. anything else?

Good start at least.

Well pretty much the two most important things are

- 12v Constant
- Ground

I believe everything else would affect a certain function.
Example: Doors not lock/unlocking, not starting, alarm not triggering, etc.

Check for 12v Constant in the plug on the remote start. Another stupid question but both 12v constant wires are connected correct?

One last thing I can think of is too check you haven't blown any fuses on the remote start.

Do you have to have the door open in order to go in to programming mode on your unit? If so, you'll need to either hook up a door pin or ground the door pin out temporarily.

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Kevin Pierson

its the cm6000 and it does not say that the door needs to be open. How would i tell?

good idea on the fuses....

I find most brains need to see accessory to program. Try feeding some power and see if goes in to programming mode.

I've Tested all voltages on cn1 (At the brain connector end) correctly.

I tried connecting ACC (white wire on cn1) to 12v constant to power per the posted suggestion. ... No change. Of course, if the brain were recognizing the ACC on/off then this idea might not have been enough????

Any ideas? Need to figure out the next step... Stumped

I usually program the remotes to the brain on the bench. With a CM6200, I make these connections:

CN1 Pin 5 Red x 2 - either one to +12V
CN1 Pin 4 Black to ground
CN1 Pin 6 GREEN / WHITE to LED test probe + ( test probe (-) lead to ground )

CN7 or CN8 to antenna

CN4 Pin 4 Blue Unlock to another LED test probe (-) lead ( test probe (+) lead to +12v constant )

Using a jumper connected to CN1 Pin 3 Green, quickly touch the other end of the jumper to +12v five times in
seven seconds.
The Parking Light test LED should flash once, signaling the entrance into remote programming.
Within 5 seconds, press the Lock button on the first remote, the Parking Light test LED should flash once.
Within 5 seconds, press the Lock button on the second remote, the Parking Light test LED should flash once.
After a five second idle period the Parking Light test LED will flash once signaling the end of the remote
programming session.

To test, press the Unlock button. The Parking Light test LED should flash twice and the second test probe
on the Unlock wire should blink once.

You can use a standard +12v test light on the CN1 Pin 6 GREEN / WHITE Parking Light wire as it is a 10A circuit.
You will hear the Parking Light relay clicking each time the brain outputs that signal. A Digital Multi Meter
can also be used but the output pulses are brief ( less than a second long ).

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Soldering is fun!

I have tested voltages to pins 4/5, as well as the parking light on 6. I could try to simulate on the bench, but am wondering what to use as a 12v power source?

Is there any way to confirm/disprove that the brain is dead?

finally ... reservation mode!

a huge thanks to kreg375!!! ... the idea to program on the bench inspired me. Rather than remove the brain from the car I just used a jumper to connect the constant momentarily to green. I did not use the test lights because the unit was still in the car ... I did get parking light flashes (as well as clearly audible clicks).

still don't think i can get it into programming mode with the keys though???? Pretty sure my ACC (white on CN1 was not attached to 12v constant at the time. it is not connected to anything now).

had (have) an issue with the brakes ... the wiring diagram shows yellow/black negative ... it was the one wire i didn't bother testing ... turns out that it is p reading +12v at rest and 0v / continuous with ground when depressed. I'll test the other wire tomorrow or use a relay to convert? I reached reservation mode today by simply temporarily disconnecting the foot brake input.

This is what I have connected. What if anything do I need to diode, other than the parking lights?:

CN1
Parking light output (PLAN: connect single output to two diodes, connect to split R/L parking light wires)

CN2
Output to starter kill - Blue from starter relay
Ebrake input
Foot brake input
Starter to clutch bypass via relay
2nd ignition output -- to ignition #2 and #3 via two relays
Door trigger (drivers side only)
Tach
Horn

CN4
door unlock output - BROWN / red
door lock output - blue/black

Ensure the diodes used to isolate the right & left (+) Parking Light wires are rated at 6 or 8 amps. The common 1N4001 thru 1N4007 diodes won't handle the current in this application. Two relays controlled by the Compustars Parking Light output with their own fused +12V source is another option. ( Or connect the Compustars (+) Parking light output to one side and use the Compustar (-) Parking Light output to control a relay for the other side. )

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Soldering is fun!

Brake light output will be positive on this vehicle probably RED / black.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Of course or is this too obvious, check the colour at the brake light.
You can even pick it up there.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

if the brake output is +12v then the wiring diagram is wrong and it will be the other wire at the brake switch. Will confirm later today.

Re the parking light circuit ... Thank you once again kreg375. extremely helpful and much appreciated.

Sounds like nothing else needs diodes?

ps. just as an fyi for anybody doing a boxster subsequently the only issues I ran into were: there are 3 RED / white wires coming off the boxster ignition harness -- they are NOT all +12v constant (need to test). Door lock/unlock/trigger wires are the thin wires going into the factory alarm under the driver's door. I did, in fact, do the bypass by using the RFID (rather than the key in a bypass unit) ... placement was really, really finicky -- had to be in the middle of key cylinder side ... off by 5mm and the car wouldn't read it.

clueless111 wrote:

Door lock/unlock/trigger wires are the thin wires going into the factory alarm under the driver's door.

Ooops, i meant driver's seat (i unscrewed it and took the seat out to give me more room ... highly recommended).

I'll post if any probs with final hookups tho none anticipated at this stage.

It was always standard procedure to remove the chairs from 911s, alarm, audio amp etc.but with those moving tapped plates and hex bolts it was a right PITA.
You might be getting false readings at the brake switch for the following reasons.
1) What you think of as the brake switch might be a cruise control brake cut-out.
2) Like BMWs the brake switch is data and variable voltage, as you brake harder the brake lights get brighter so tap the loom going to the rear for the brake lights, or if there look at the rear fuse/ECU box around the trunk or engine bay area or even front hood area.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

i did figure out the brake switch (it was BROWN / black wire) ... and ran into a different, weird, and really stupid problem.

the boxster has a central locking system that disarms with unlock. The Cm6200 has an option to unlock the doors/disarm before remote start. But i have the RF-BAM1 which is a 1 button remote. so i cannot program the options. indeed, it took me a while to even piece this together because if i unlock the car it takes the car out of reservation mode / if its locked it won't remote start because of porsche alarm.

Can anybody suggest the easiest way for me to either program my CM6200 with access to only the 1 button remote, or alteratively provide a negative pulse to the disarm wire of the porsche alarm, right before remote start i imagine. is there a better idea out there than running a(nother) relay from the 2nd starter output (which now goes to a relay grounding the clutch switch)? Can I just use the one coil and split the ground output to the clutch and the alarm unit?

Don't know how much of a hurry you are in, but why not buy a used Compustar 4 button, one way, AM remote FOB. The Compustar CM6200 can have 3 remotes paired with it and you could have the two one button remotes and the 4 button remote paired all at the same time. Search on Compustar ( FCC ID ) O44JR1600. They can be found for about $15. Another option is the OP-500 programmer, which runs around $80 but is easier to use and allows changes in the Special Option groups.

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Soldering is fun!

things that should be very easy are not.....

I took your advice kregs357. grabbed the cheap 4 button 1 way remote.

programming this remote confirmed that the car will NOT enter programming mode with the ignition key (i have absolutely NO clue why not), but will enter if a apply 12v to the green wire in cn1 directly 5 times. the remote is programmed. all buttons work.

I cannot seem to enter the special options programming mode?????

I hold the lock & unlock buttons simultaneously for 2.5 sec. I see three flashes (they actually begin before the 2.5 sec is up). I then do this again. I get another 3 flashes.

I press the hood and remote start button simultaneously for 2.5 sec. I get one flash. I wait. Nothing happens. I hold the buttons simultaneously for 2.5 sec again. Again only 1 flash.

Ugh. What the heck am I doing wrong now?????

OK. Took a while but I think I got it figured out. I always use the OP-500 programmer so I am unfamiliar with the programming procedure via the 4 button remotes. The three beeps when you try to enter programming mode for Menu1 ( or any menu for that matter ) means that the CM6000 is currently Locked.
To make changes to the program options you must first unlock the system ( by pressing the unlock button ). Then you can start with the programming procedure by pressing the Lock & Unlock buttons simultaneously, etc. There is a time limit between steps, so don't hesitate between steps too long.

In summary : ( This will set the system for unlock before start and lock after start. Menu 1-01 to Opt 2 )
1. Press Unlock to unlock the brain. The system responds with two flashes & unlocks the doors.
2. Press and hold Lock & Unlock for 2.5 seconds. The system responds with ONE flash.
3 Press and hold Lock & Unlock for 2.5 seconds. The system responds with ONE flash.
4. Press and hold Trunk & Start for 2.5 seconds. The system responds with ONE flash.
5. Wait until the Parking Lights to flash once, for Menu 1-01, in about 5 seconds.
6. Press Unlock to select Menu 1-01 Opt 2. The system responds with two flashes.

All done.

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Soldering is fun!

as i said, things should be easy just aren't....

first off, thanks again. epic. you were right on the money. the option is now programmed and is working as advertised. the door unlocks first.

except....

the car only starts with the key in the ACC or ON position. There is no transponder in the key, only the RFID attached at the steering column. The car starts with key. The car also remote starts fine if the key is in the ACC or ON position.

The CN1 white ACC wire is not connected to anything per the porsche wiring diagram.

One other WEIRD thing. When I remote start the car (but NOT when I start with the ignition key) instead of shutting off/entering reservation mode when I close the door the car stays on forever. (or until I kill it by releasing the parking brake. Even the foot brake does not interfere. I obviously don't know if this is related.

does this sound like anything? any ideas where to start troubleshooting??????

Did you connect the CM6000 to supply power to all 3 ignition circuits? Reading this post over, I only see where the Black Ignition 1 wire is powered. That and the fact that cycling the ignition key did not supply the CM6000 the ignition signal to program the remotes and the fact that the car will only remote start with the key in and ON means problems with the ignition wiring.

Here is what CN1 should look like :

CN1-1 White ACC1                        Not Used
CN1-2 Yellow Starter                    Yellow @ Ignition switch harness
CN1-3 Green IGN1                        Black @ Ignition switch harness
CN1-4 Black Ground                      Chassis Ground
CN1-5 Red x 2 +12V                      RED / White or Battery
CN1-6 GREEN / WHITE (+) Parking Lights    to Rt or Lt Parking Light

The loose extra relay supplied in CM6000 kit gets used for the IGN2 circuit. Wired as follows :
Relay Red wire with 30 Amp fuse goes to +12V constant source.
Relay Blue wire goes to BLACK / YELLOW Ignition2 wire in Boxster
Relay Purple wire goes the CN3-7 Green

That still leaves the Boxsters IGN3 circuit ( Orange wire ).
If you had the OP-500 you could reprogram a POC# in the Special Option Group 2 to provide another (-) 250mA Ignition 2 output but...

Being as we are talking about a Boxster with 3 ignition circuits and no accessory circuits, keeping everything isolated at the ignition harness is a good idea. Obtain a 30/40 Amp SPDT relay and wire as follows :
Relay Pins 86 and 87 to +12v constant thru 30 Amp fuse
Relay Pin 85 to same CN3-7 Green wire as external IGN2 relay
Relay Pin 30 to Orange IGN3 wire in Boxster
Relay Pin 87A not used - insulate

Note that there are now two wires connected to the CN3-7 Green wire, each going to Pin 85 of two separate relays. I would wire the external relays up, and before connecting the Pin 30's to the cars ignition wires, put a DMM on each Pin 30 to verify +12v when the remote start button is pressed.

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Soldering is fun!

Doubt if the RFID chip removed will R/S this vehicle . On VWs (the same) and similar BMWs you HAVE to use a 556U wired Euro style, i.e. no antenna loop as per the instructions, other wise it just won't work.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I have the relays set up exactly as advertised.

I was assuming the RFID chip beside the ignition was working for the following reason ... when using the key (with the RFID REMOVED) the car will not start, when the RFID is placed at the ignition but just a little bit off target the car does not start, but when the glass RFID is moved to right where it should be the car starts with the key.

Interestingly there are NO other electronics in my key (eg, the circuit board is gone).

The car, of course, starts with the remote starter and the key in ACC or ON. It does not remote start with the key in but in the off position.

I don't know what you mean by no antenna loop ... I thought the 556U was based on an antenna loop around the key ring.

In any event ... I'm happy to order a 556U if that's consistent with my symptoms ... but before I do want to make sure this makes sense ... I am not understanding how the chip at the ignition trick would work for a key start but not a remote start???

Thanks guys.

EWS is the BMW name for this type of immobiliser. I've always found that with BMW, VW group and Porsche the unit's RF power is that low the chip trick won't work; whereas, all Japanese and Korean, German Ford and GM and the French and Italian* cars, using just the chip** is effective.
When you purchase the 556U, read the instructions carefully, section 2, European cars, then you might understand my point about discarding the loop, again using the loop is virtually ineffective on Euro cars.
*There's no point in me importing by-passes from the various Canadian manufacturers, for example, Valeo in France make the immobilisers for Honda, yet the version that works on the US model doesn't work on the European model. Euro Fords with keyless go and push start use Volvo equipment for the immobiliser and circuitry, those without use Ford systems.
**I know chip removal is frowned upon in this game but in my defence we have a shortage of by-passes in Europe and the UK Cat l alarms have inbuilt dual immobilisers anyway.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Just to clarify.

1. You have removed the RFID chip from a working key and secured it to / by / near the ignition switch at an exact location that allows the car to consistantly start with a plain key.

2. The car starts OK with the plain key.

3. The car won't remote start. ( No key in / near the ignition switch. )

4. The car won't remote start with the key fully in the ignition switch, but not turned.

5. The car will remote start if the key is in the ignition switch and turned to ACC or ON.

Sounds like an ignition wire / power problem with the remote starter due to the fact that turning the ignition key to ACC or ON does some / most of the ignition circuit powering for the remote starter and allows a start. Did you verify the CM6000 Ignition outputs from CN1-3, the Blue wire on the first external relay and Pin 30 from the second external relay?

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Soldering is fun!

I will test the 3 ignition wires ON the failed remote start with remote control (i tested the 3 ignition wires previously with dmm as part of install ... i never checked the relay voltage out on remote start which is what i'll do tmr ... hard for me to believe its a bad relay but who knows).

as far as the rest of your assumptions, yes, you got it EXACTLY correct.

I did mention the RFID in my initial post because it seems similar to the way the car doesn't start without the RFID ... so howie ii's posts have me thinking about that too. I'll actually go check that tmr too ... but it looks like the instrument panel lights up but no clicking. same thing with failed remote start. All I could imagine would be that the key in the ignition (at ACC) somehow powers an antenna that picks up the RFID? It sounds to me from howie ii's post that the 556U bypass can NOT be simply a wire looped around the ignition but instead wired directly???? Is this right? I tried to read up on how beemers and such were wired with the 556U bypass but was quite confused. Many posters wrote that the NON-EURO instructions had to be followed, even tho the instructions said it wouldn't work. One post said following the EURO instructions could cause damage. It was actually quite confusing.

And then of course if I do need to wire in a 556U bypass I have absolutely NO clue what wires would be the transponder wires in the boxster lol.

...to be continued i guess.

2 points:
a)I'm supposed to be the BMW* King on this site, I've ALWAYS used the 556U in EURO mode never the other. No problems.
b)The confusing thing here is that BMW and Porsche both use a wire that goes live on both ACC and cranking. This is the mystery wire that causes so much confusion, to be treated as the second ignition on BMWs and third on Porsches.
*For practical purposes all German vehicles.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.