2006 acura tl, viper 5902, ads-dlsl-ha

I'm currently mapping out my install of a Viper 5092 using the Idatalink ADS-DLSL-HA in my 2006 TL.   I'm going with the Wire to Wire method because from what I read the datalink cable is not very reliable and this is the best way.

I've mapped out most all my connections but I'm having trouble figuring out how to utilize the Lock / Unlock and the arm/ disarm connections between the Car, Idatalink & 5902.

I want to be able to use the comfort closure feature, so I know I need to go inside the door for this. Also I don't want the car to unlock before it remote starts.   I've read about installs where they wanted to avoid going in the door so these feature were not part of there install.

Here is what I have below. Whatever I left out of the H2 connector I'm not using unless I need to (let me know). I also left out the H3 connector because I have no questions about that harness.



Please any help would be appreciate!! I'm ready to get out there and start ripping the car apart!


VIPER MODULE

H1-HARNESS

H1/1 -RED / White (-) 200mA channel 2 output -- IDATALINK Trunk (-) input RED / White
H1/2 -Red 12V Constant input –- Grey wire 520T
H1/3 -Brn(-) Siren out-- Siren
H1/4 – (not used)
H1/5 - Black ground -- connected with IDATALINK “ground black”
H1/6 - Violet --(NOT USED)
H1/7 - Blue (-) 2nd unlock output -- Blue wire 520T
H1/8 - Green (-) Door Trigger Input –- (NOT SURE ???????)
H1/9 - BLACK/ White (-) 200mA dome light -- (NOT USING)
H1/10 - WHITE/ Blue(-) activation input -- (NOT USING)
H1/11 - White (+) parking light output –- (RED / Black Connector J Body)
H1/12 - Orange ground when armed output-- (NOT USING)

H2- HARNESS

H2/1- Light GREEN/ Black (-) -- Factory alarm disarm (White-Inside Door)
H2/3- GREEN / WHITE (-) --Factory alarm rearm
H2/9- Violet/white TACH Input –-(Center Console Connector A Pin 15-20)
H2/10 Dark Blue- Status Output – (?????)
H2/16 - 2nd Status Defroster output –- Relay
H2/17 – Brown -Brake Shutdown Input –WHITE/ black Pedal connector
H2/18 - BLACK/ White- Neutral Safety Input – Ground Temporarily


Door Lock , 3 PIN

1. Blue Door Unlock (-) 500mA Unlock Output—(?????)
2. Empty
3. Green Door Lock (-) 500mA Lock Output- (?????)


IDATALINK MODULE

-Ground out when running Blue/White – (?????)
-Ground black - Connected to H1 ground and H3 Neutral Safety input and grounded at same location
-12V Red – Grey 520T
-LOCK/ARM INPUT (-) INPUT Grn/Blk – (????)
-UNLOCK INPUT (-) Blu/Blk – (????)
-TRUNK(-) INPUT RED / White -- RED / White H1/1 ON 5902
-DISARM(-) INPUT Brown –- (????)
-STARTER INPUT Blk/white –- ( VIOLET SAME AS H3/4)
-Door/Trunk Status (-) output Green -- (NEEDED???)
-Tach Output PURPLE / White – ( SAME AS Violet/White H2/9)
-Wht/Blk Security light input – ON DIAGRAM
-WHITE/ Red Security light output – ON DIAGRAM
-Yellow Hood (-) Output –- (NEEDED???)
-ORANGE / Black Key Data –- ON DIAGRAM
-Orange Door lock Data –- ON DIAGRAM
-Pink Ignition input –- ON DIAGRAM

Here is a link to some info on the 2006 TL.  https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~127525~KW~kreg357~PN~2~TPN~2
Check Page two for pictures of the connectors and wires.
The ADS DLSL HA is a good choice.  The module will handle the door locks for you, including when the engine is
running.  The modules trunk release will only work while the engine is off. 

-Ground out when running Blue/White –       (-) 200mA Status Output from Viper H2/10
-Ground black - Connected to H1 ground and H3 Neutral Safety input and grounded at same location
-12V Red – Grey 520T
-LOCK/ARM INPUT (-) INPUT Grn/Blk –         Viper Green Door Lock
-UNLOCK INPUT (-) Blu/Blk –                         Viper Blue Door Unlock
-TRUNK(-) INPUT RED / White -- RED / White H1/1 ON 5902
-DISARM(-) INPUT Brown –-                           Viper LIGHT GREEN/ BLACK (-) 200mA OEM ALARM DISARM OUTPUT  H2/1
-STARTER INPUT Blk/white –- ( VIOLET SAME AS H3/4)
-Door/Trunk Status (-) output Green --          Viper GREEN (-) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT
-Tach Output PURPLE / White –                          Viper Violet/White H2/9 only
-Wht/Blk Security light input – ON DIAGRAM
-WHITE/ Red Security light output – ON DIAGRAM
-Yellow Hood (-) Output –-                             Viper GREY (-) HOOD PIN INPUT  ** Verify TL has Hood Pin Sensor
-ORANGE / Black Key Data –- ON DIAGRAM
-Orange Door lock Data –- ON DIAGRAM
-Pink Ignition input –- ON DIAGRAM

Additionally, here are the H3 connections :
H3/1 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT                                               BLACK / YELLOW @ Ignition Switch
H3/2 RED / WHITE (87) FLEX RELAY +12V INPUT (30A FUSED)             White @ Ignition Switch
H3/3 ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT                                              BLACK/ Red @ Ignition Switch
H3/4 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE STARTER KILL)         BLACK/ White @ Ignition Switch
H3/5 GREEN (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE STARTER KILL)              optional - must cut Starter wire
H3/6 RED IGNITION 1 +12V INPUT (30A FUSED)                                    White @ Ignition Switch
H3/7 PINK/WHITE (30) FLEX RELAY OUTPUT                                         WHITE/ Red @ Ignition Switch  ** Flex relay set to ACC2
H3/8 PINK/BLACK (87a) FLEX RELAY INPUT                                           Not Used
H3/9 RED / BLACK ACC/STARTER RELAY +12V INPUT (30A FUSED)     White @ Ignition Switch
H3/10 NC No Connection

I would use the (+) Parking Light RED / Black wire shown in the linked pictures at the fuse box.

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Soldering is fun!

Thanks Kreg for the response!    

Now the only concern I have is from what I've read the Comfort window closure will not work unless you tap into the lock/unlock wires inside the door. This was because usually this feature would be activated by the key in the door lock cylinder.   Are you familiar with the TL and this feature specifically?    I had in my notes from someone that I had connect the green Lock wire from the 5902 to the Lock & Arm wires inside the door. (Diagram below for my door connector)

Also with the connections you listed the TL will disarm for remote start without unlocking the car correct?

Also all my H3 connections are the same as your except you have H3/5 as optional.   I understand I would need to cut the starter wire but what would be the disadvantage of not using the H3/5 ??

This is the Door key cylinder switch (BELOW).   



FACTORY ALARM DISARM(-) :WHITE
KEY SWITCH UNLOCK OUTPUT: BLK/RED
FACTORY ALARM ARM(-) : WHITE/ RED
KEY SWITCH LOCK OUTPUT(-): BLU/WHT

Diagram of circuit (door switch above is in the middle)

Most TL's have a factory alarm.  That along with the transponder immobilizer and the Viper's alarm provide
plenty of security.  The Starter Kill might be "over-kill".  However, anti-grind might be useful and make
cutting the Starter wire worth while.    See Menu 3, Item 13.  ( Cutting the starter wire also adds a slight
risk if there is a bad connection or the relay goes bad.)

The iDatalinks' Disarm is an individual input, unlike the Lock/Arm input.  The Viper will send a Disarm with a
remote start, unlock and trunk release.  See Menu 2, Items 6 & 7.  The Vipers Disarm signal going thru the ADS DLSL HA
during a remote start will turn off the alarm without unlocking the doors.

The iDatalink bypass module controls the door locks thru data.  If you want to have "Comfort Closure" you will
need to connect the Viper's Lock output wire directly to the vehicle along with making the necessary programming
change extending the Lock pulse. See Menu 1, Item 9.

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Soldering is fun!

Thanks Kreg I'll look everything over in the morning.   

Quick Question, if I need to run the Viper Lock Output (Green wire) to the vehicle wiring inside the door Lock( Blue/White I think), does the idatalink wire GREEN/ black still link in to this connection?

I Need someone to walk me through this last part cause I cant seem to get the locks to function properly!! Everything is working great remote start, trunk release running of separate relay, several aux outs etc. Everything is W2W from the idatalink.


The problem is whenever I pop the trunk my doors unlock first instead of just disarming and every worse this also happens before remote starting and they lock after started.    

All the wiring on the datalink for lock data & key data are hooked up I just omitted them from the diagram.


I have tried running the blue/green wires directly to the door harness which supposedly controls the arm disarm functions & several other combinations but cannot seem to get it to just disarm.

I do have comfort closure working when I tie the green viper lock wire into the blue/white-WHITE/ red wire at the door harness.   I cant believe there isn't an option to run the lock/unlock signal as validity or at least the unlock wire as a double pulse-hold that way I would be able to roll down my windows also without an extra controller.    

Can someone help me connect the dots between the Idatalink- Viper & the TL??