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compustar 1w900fm s module

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=128489
Printed Date: April 18, 2024 at 7:18 PM


Topic: compustar 1w900fm s module

Posted By: qlopp
Subject: compustar 1w900fm s module
Date Posted: September 10, 2011 at 10:13 PM

Hi,

 I posted questions during the initial install way back in 12/2005 and received great help, thank you.  Remote start system in question is a late 2005 Compustar 1W900FM-S with the 1 way, white, round, 4 button fobs.  The vehicle is a 2001 Toyota Highlander 2.4 auto AWD with transponder key.  This remote start has worked great for 6 years now until the (-) lock output recently stopped functioning.  My problem isn't with testing the module or the add-on wiring and relay to fool the door lock detect circuit; all of that is working perfectly.  I can ground the (-) output from the CS module and operate the lock function every time.  Every other feature of the system works as perfectly as when it was new.

I just need another module to replace this one so I don't have to wire in another system.  I have not had luck locating a replacement through the original retailer, another CS dealer, nor the main company Firstech.  Firstech said it may be possible but never called back.  As the pic shows, this module is labelled "CM4200-V.2".

Below are pics of the top (with labels and the access cover off) and both sides with connectors in plain view.  I believe that any CS module that had the blue FM antenna connector and all of the white connectors on the other side would work but that is just speculation.  I've found a couple actual pics of "CM4200" modules that aren't exactly the same and seem to lack at least one of the smaller white "input" connectors.  Another compatibility concern would be if the original remotes would work with the new module.

If any installers could sell me the module or any owners have a working used module from on old installation lying around I'd like to buy it.  I want to avoid rewiring this car since I spent the effort getting the wiring perfectly soldeRED / integrated originally.

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As an alternative, I have two scenarios that I'd like to discuss.

1) The delay from the time you hit either lock or unlock button to time of lock actuation has always been long, but even worse is when attempting two stage unlocking of the vehicle.  It seems the system must pause for one to two seconds before accepting an additional unlock request.  It is not the vehicle, it is the module.  This is the way it always has been and it's my only complaint of the system.  I am using the 250mA (-) unlock and lock outputs from connector CM4, pins 4 & 5, colors Blue & Blue/Black respectively through the driver's door key switch circuits with the aforementioned door lock detect circuit bypass.  The door key switch (electrically) allows for immediate reaction and can be customized with a factory scantool to act as a single or two stage input for unlocking.  That's just some added detail to show that I specifically desired to tie into these circuits and they are not the cause of slow operation.  Does anyone know if a newer Compustar RS kit would activate these (-) signals faster than mine?  I would be looking for a kit that offers the same large 8-way connector for the ignition circuits to avoid rewiring that portion of the install.  There isn't a Highlander ignition harness jumper available or this wouldn't be such a big deal.

2) Along the lines of point #1, do most/all basic Compustar RS kits have the same exact 8-way connector on them?  Some of the pics I found would suggest yes, but there's no telling if the wiring is the same without more research.  The only other inputs/outputs I need on the new unit (no starter kill) are light output, hood switch, brake input, alt/tach sense, status output, horn output, (-) lock and (-) unlock.

Thank you very much for reading this and I look forward to hearing from you!




Replies:

Posted By: JWorm
Date Posted: September 11, 2011 at 8:07 PM
A much simpler solution....
Instead of replacing the unit, have you tried using the "rearm" output in place of the "lock" output?




Posted By: qlopp
Date Posted: September 12, 2011 at 1:43 PM

JWorm,

Thanks for the suggestion, I would have never thought of it given the ambiguous documentation for the rearm output in the manual.  I looked over the way that would change operation and I'd still prefer it to work exactly as designed.  Another member PMed me with an offer to sell me a functionally identical module so I took him up on it.

If for some reason that doesn't work out I'll update this post.

Thanks to everyone for reading.






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