locating txct and code wire

Hi, I am trying to install an Autopage 665 2way and an idatalink ids-tbsl-ko on a 2006 Sienna and I am having trouble locating the TXCT and Code wire on the car. I've downloaded the manual off of the idatalink site and it said the wire should be "yellow" for Code on a 4 pin plug and Yellow/Red for TXCT on a 5 pin plug but I can not locate these wires. The only wire that looks like yellow/red is on a yellow plug on the bottom of the steering wheel and I figure that might be for the airbag. Am I wrong? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

I think you are confused, the wires are in a 7 pin plug, pins 4 and 5. It will be under the ignition switch and have the light around it in the same module. Not all Siennas had immobilizers in 2006, the base model did not. The easy way to tell is to look for a security light next to the radio, no light = no immobilizer...

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

The seven pin connector should be at / on the igntion switch itself.   The colors are correct and Pin 3 should be empty.  While all the Sienna's in that model range ( 2004 - 2007 ) that I have done had the immobilizer, it is possible that your van does not have one.  Have you tried a remote start without the bypass module?

Stay away from that Yellow plug / connector, it's probably the airbag...

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Soldering is fun!

Haha, thank you guys for your quick reply. Yea, I was a little confused when posted last. I do remember seeing the picture of a 7 pin plug on the idatalink information sheet, but I could not locate a similar 7 pin plug anywhere, so I assumed it was 4 and 5 pin plugs. It is already 2230 here, so I've already wrapped everything up. I will double check to see if it is equipped with an immobilizer and also try to remote start without the by pass module once I have some time to work on it again. I will keep you guys posted on the status. Once again, thank you.

Sorry, I don't mean to double post, but I can't edit for now.

Mike, I am using the diagram you posted for the 2006 Sienna to do my install and was wondering if there is a way to verify the blue wire for the door trigger. I tried testing for voltage by opening and closing the door but the meter screen just stays the same.

Thanks.

You are using the blue wire on the dome light switch? It is the only one on the switch. Sometimes it is easier to test on voltage instead of ohms. Try putting your meter on voltage, it will read 12volts closed, nothing open.

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

TX and RX: Look at the keyhole where you put the ignition key. There's an illuminated ring around it.

Put your hands around the black plastic part that houses the illuminated ring and follow it deeper into the dash. The connector with your TX/RX should be plugged in there.

If you unplug it and try starting the car, it'll just crank and not start.

From there you just have to find pins 4 and 5. Note that Pin 3 is empty; this will help you know which end is #7 and which end is #1.

Door trigger:

If you're using the domelight wire, the domelight takes a LONG time to go out after closing the door.

Instead of waiting forever, insert the key and turn the ignition on. Now you'll notice that the domelight goes out right away when you close the door, so you don't have to wait while you're testing the wire.

NOTE: You're already going to the ignition cylinder for TX and RX. The illuminated ring around the key cylinder catches all five doors.

All you have to do is test the wires there and find out which is the negative light-ring-trigger wire.

NOTE 2: The illumination ring is powered separately from the dome lights, and is not a high-power circuit. If in the future you decide to add more domelights to your car, don't tap in at the illumination ring.

Thank you everyone for the replies. I found the 7 pin plug containing the txct and code wire. I've been hooking everything else by looking from the bottom up and was not able to find the plug. I got in the car today and look straight down at the key cylinder and found the plug.

The door trigger on the dome switch has one and only one blue wire and it is the one I probed. I also did set the meter on voltage.

I decided to just use go with that blue wire and hooked up the last few wires, programmed idatalink, program my tach signal, and then the car started up remotely. But there are a few things I need to look into further.

1. The driver door did not trigger the alarm when I first test it by arming the system and then sticking my hand in to unlock the door and open it. So, I ignored it for a moment and went to check the other doors. When I flip the unlock toggle on the door handle on all the other doors there is a ~2 seconds delay and then the alarm triggers. I then went back to the driver door and it is also triggers now.

2. Second thing I need to look at, and this could be the actual module and or the alarm disabling it, is that the remote starts works fine for a few times and then it wouldn't start the system. I would hit start on the remote, get an "ign" icon as feedback saying it's trying to start and then it would beep twice and not start. In between the time it works and it stopped working I've set off the alarm severytimes testing it. I also got remote start to work again after several cycles of arm and disarm.

3. This was the last thing I worried about but I think I f*ed up good. The parking lights didn't come on when it started remotely even though I've connected the Parking Light Output of the remote start module to the GREEN/ Black wire on the headlight switch. So...I started the car remotely and flip the parking lights on and the car shuts off. After that the module didn't respond to any command from the remote. I checked all the fuses and it's still good. The system won't arm, disarm, or remote start. The blue light inside isn't blinking any more. I unplugged all the wires and reconnected it and still not working. I opened the brain up but didn't smell or see any burnt mark. Could I have fried anything inside?

I'm pretty sure all my connections are good, but I will double check tomorrow or when I get a chance. Please help or tell me what I'm doing wrong. Thank you.

BTW, this is my second install. The first one was a similar module, autopage 603 with just remote start, on a 2001 camry and everything is working fine.


For those interested, the rear defogger wire is the YELLOW /GREEN wire behind the defogger switch.

Your first problem really isn't a problem, since you used the dome light feed for the door switch, the delay will cause the doors to only trigger once the dome light extinguishes completely, and also trigger a few seconds after you open the door, since the light does not come one right away when u do, so no problem there.


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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

Thanks t&t tech. I will try the suggestion Chris Luongo gave when I get a chance.

Okay, so I looked at my parking lights connection this morning and checked the voltages on the wires again. There are two GREEN/ black wires on the light switch plug, one has 12v regardless what position the light switch is in and the other has about 10v when the lights are off and 0v when I switch the lights on. I made my connection to the one that was 10v. Should I have connected it to the other one or am I missing something completely? Thanks.

The 2006 Sienna should have a total of three GREEN/ black wires in the steering column harness; they're all the same size and look the same:

1. Negative-trigger parking lights
2. Negative-trigger left turn signal
3. Negative-trigger horn

Test carefully whatever wire you hooked up to.

Also, I've never installed an Autopage, but are you sure you configured the unit for negative-trigger parking light output? I think there's one wire (with a fuse) (and is it maybe WHITE/ red?) that you tie to ground, and then the other (white) wire goes to the parking light wire on the car.

If you accidentally set it up for positive, and turned on the car's negative parking light switch at the same time the Autopage unit was feeding positive to the same wire...........If you got lucky, maybe you'd just blow the Autopage's parking light fuse. If unlucky, maybe some damage to the car.

So, in summary: Check the Autopage's fuses, check the Sienna's parking light fuse, temporarily disconnect the Autopage light-flash wire from the car.......then, separately, test the Sienna wire AND the Autopage wire for proper function before reconnecting.

Thanks Chris Luongo and everyone else for your help. Yea, I blew a fuse on the car because the module's parking light output came default with +, but the car used a - trigger. I cut a wire on the module and grounded it to make the parking light output to -, replaced the blown fuse and there is power going to the module now. I decided to keep the door trigger on the dome light because I had already hooked it up and it also triggers the alarm if the door is unlock. I got everything working to my liking now.

One problem I noticed is that every now and then the car would remote start and only last about 10 secs before shutting down. But it only does it every now and then and other times it would stay running the whole preset time. I believe it may have to do with my bypass module. I will probably reset it and reprogram it when I have a chance.

Hey, no problem. Good to see you got the parking lights figured out.

As for running ten seconds and shutting down, definitely not the bypass. The car (pretty much every car) only needs to see immobilizer at startup.

You could start the car with the key, break the chip out of the key and throw it away, and you could drive around forever as long as you don't shut the car back off.

I haven't installed Autopage, but it's probably a voltage-level or tach issue. Did you use tach or voltage?

I've almost always used voltage on those Siennas, because the two locations for the tach wire are a little hard to get to.

Next time it shuts down, the Autopage unit should have a diagnostics menu that shows you the reason. Maybe you can reprogram the voltage threshold.

If you end up needing to connect tach, you have two options if you won't want to go under the hood:

1: Above the gas pedal is a bundle with dozens or BLACK/ orange wires. One is tach, but you have to test them all.

2: Pop out the upper glove box; it just pulls out. Reach in there and down and off to the right; the ECM has five plugs in a vertical row. Tach is the only BLACK/ orange in the second plug down from the top.

Thanks for the reply, I used Tach and connected near the ECU behind the glove box. So, you recommend voltage over tach on this particular car? Where would be the best place to tap to get the voltage signal or any voltage signal will do?

Sorry, should have been more clear.

I use voltage sensing because it's a feature built into the remote starter, and requires no extra connections. It saves time instead of connecting the tachometer wire.

But the tachometer connection is generally considered the best, so you didn't do anything wrong by using it.

You'll definitely want to go into the Autopage's diagnostic menu to find out the reason for the remote starter shutting down. It should show different things like brake, hood, over-rev on tach, and under-rev on tach. Hopefully that'll point you in the right direction to start troubleshooting.

Also, did you "teach" the tach rate to the Autopage? I'd assume it has some kind of method for the unit to learn the tach signal. And it might not work right if you didn't do that.

Sorry for taking so long to post an update, but I wanted to test it for awhile before posting the results. I took your advice and went into autopage's diagnostic and found out that it was shutting down due to over revving. I had already taught the tach signal to the remote start when I installed it, but I went ahead and relearned the tach signal and it has been working fine since then. I guess the engine was idling alot lower than usual when I taught it the tach signal the first time. Once again, thanks everyone's help.