Printer Friendly Forum Posts - Viper 5901 in a 2011 Ford F-150

Nice truck!!! posted_image

DEI has the wiring info at : https://www.readyremote.com/main.asp?make=Ford&model=F150

Ford is doing some interesting things with the 2011's.

First check your key to see if there is a "SA" stamped on it. No "SA" is standard 40 Bit Encryption. Use any bypass module for PATS3 (that worked on 2009's). My favorite, DEI 1100F, should work ( used one a 2010 F150 ).

If it has the "SA" stamp, it could still be 40 Bit. Preform the test with a DMM outlined in the Fortin EVO-Ride Install Guide on page 5 : https://ifar.ca/en/download/3626/preview.html

If it tests as 40 Bit, then use any PATS3 bypass. If it tests as 80 bit, your options are limited. You can use the EVO-Ride, DEI PKTX or the ADS AL CA with the KLON process. A "Key In the Box" will work. "SA" keys can be found for under $10, 556UW is $15 and programming the new key goes the same sequence as the older 40 Bit keys.

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Soldering is fun!

Almost forgot. A little gotcha... Use the (+) Parking Light wire at the SJB ( aka BCM ) in the passenger kick panel.

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Soldering is fun!

Hey Kreg,

Thanks for all the info, I really appreciate it.

My key does have SA on it but I'm not sure I am acknowledgeable enough to figure out if its 40 or 80 bit.

I didn't have any real problem with the install ion the dodge but that truck had a simple system.

I may have to find a pro for this one or just do the oem system which has very few options.

Again, appreciate all the info.
Jess

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2011 F-250 Super Duty

Flash-Logic/Idatalink has that vehicle covered as long as you have 2 keys for programming. Very simple install. Another installer here said the parking light positive wire can be found in the large loom going to the engine compartment, located above the drivers footwell. I havent verified this so definitely used a DMM to test before hooking up anything!

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To master and control electricity is perfection. *evil laugh*

Thanks....that procedure to determine which bit key I have seems simple enough....

I'm gonna give it a try... Wish me luck.

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2011 F-250 Super Duty

I believe you will find the F150 easier than the Dodge Ram. You will have to lengthen a few wires if you make any connections at the SJB / BCM but being as you are re-using the Viper system you will have to add / splice some anyway. Solder and heat shrink tube.... posted_image

The note about the (+) Parking Lights was to keep you from using the (-) Parking Light wire and frying the light switch PCB.

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Soldering is fun!

Well I'm not having much luck finding and buying a bypass for my truck.

Everytime I think I have the right one I am re-directed to another one (brand)

I tried to pick up the Flash-Logic/Idatalink "FLCAN" for my truck (I believe that's the right one) but I can't seem to be able to find a place that sells them online.

I've searched Google, ebay and a couple auto security sites and the webpages I do find it on don't offer a purchase, these sites seem to only be an advertisement for the product.

I'm not really sure where to buy it from. I stopped by a couple mobile security stores here locally and they refuse to sell me a bypass with out doing an install of "their" alarm which defeats my intentions of not having to purchase another alarm when I have a perfectly good Viper right here, which I'll add I already know how to use.

Any suggestions on where I can go online and actually buy the right bypass....

Thanks.

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2011 F-250 Super Duty

just put a 556u in there with a blank 80 bit key. key should be around 25 at dealer. maybe ask dealer if they have a miscut.

Thanks for the suggestion but I'm trying to avoid the "Key-in-the-box"

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2011 F-250 Super Duty

I've used that way plenty of times. it always starts fine for me. idatalink i believe also has a bypass. use an ads-al-ca. it will not require a key.

dei xpresskit also has a pktx module that requires no key.

Did you determine that your "SA" key is programmed as 80 bit? The FLCan or ADS AL CA is a good choice but you must be registered with the KLON process and have the ADS USB cable to program the bypass module to the vehicle.

The "key-in-the-box" is the least expensive and the key does not have to be cut for the lock, only the transponder has to be programmed. A blank or mis-cut key won't turn the ignition cylinder and start the truck but will work as the transponder key-in-the-box.

Your other choices are the EVO-Ride or DEI PKTX. Not cheap but possible for the DIYer.

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Soldering is fun!

mobileedgeny wrote:

dei xpresskit also has a pktx module that requires no key.

Appreciate it... Yeah, I'm looking around the web right now...

The ADS-AL CA module requires a $40 USB cable to download the required firmware for the module to work... It also says you can only get firmware access if your a professional so that counts me out lol.

Unless I am misunderstanding, the Flashlogic module seems like my best choice for the features it offers and the online access to firmware. It doesn't appear to be accessible only to professionals.
I'm not sure if it also requires a special USB cable as well, there is no mention of it online.

I just gotta find a place to buy it and get this install done. :-)

I miss my remote start and hate not having the truck secured with an alarm.

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2011 F-250 Super Duty

Flashlogic / FLCan = iDatalink / ADS AL CA Still need to be registered to download and use KLON.

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Soldering is fun!

kreg357 wrote:

Did you determine that your "SA" key is programmed as 80 bit? The FLCan or ADS AL CA is a good choice but you must be registered with the KLON process and have the ADS USB cable to program the bypass module to the vehicle.

The "key-in-the-box" is the least expensive and the key does not have to be cut for the lock, only the transponder has to be programmed. A blank or mis-cut key won't turn the ignition cylinder and start the truck but will work as the transponder key-in-the-box.

Your other choices are the EVO-Ride or DEI PKTX. Not cheap but possible for the DIYer.

Yes, it's 80 bit unfortunately...

As for the cost... I'm looking at it like this...I have a choice..I can buy a bypass for under $100 and install the Viper or I can spring for $289 and get the OEM plug & play remote start with no security so IMO the bypass is the better choice. :-)

Ford gives you the choice of "either" remote start OR security but not both at the same time using OEM parts. They are all plug and play but it Kinda sucks the way they do it but it is what it is.

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2011 F-250 Super Duty

kreg357 wrote:

Flashlogic / FLCan = iDatalink / ADS AL CA Still need to be registered to download and use KLON.

Yes but it looked like anyone can register...not just professionals.
I could be wrong, I didn't go to far into the registration process yet.

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2011 F-250 Super Duty

I just wanted to jump in here and update this thread with some info that may help somebody else doing this type of install on a 2011...

Following the instructions on the Fortin EVO-Ride Install Guide on page 5 : https://ifar.ca/en/download/3626/preview.html I noticed the wire color in the 2011 is different then the instructions say...

The wire to test whether it's 40 or 80 bit is Yellow/red, not just yellow as the instructions show...

As for my install, I have not gotten very far with it... I've determined it's 80bit and I can find several places to buy the FLCAN online but so far I can't find anyone who is willing to program it for my truck and sell it to me over the counter. Not too many even want to do the install and the ones that will want several hundred dollars.

I may be forced to put my Viper 5901 on ebay and use that cash to just take the truck to best buy or something and get one installed...

Kreg, you were very right in being limited with the 80 bit.... Not too many around where I live even want to mess with it. They say it's very difficult to get around. I dunno, seems kinda silly to me.

Jess

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2011 F-250 Super Duty

Forgot to ask...

Does the "Key in the box" work regardless of the 80 bit setup?

According to the programing instructions for adding a third key, it will need to be cut to program it as you have to be able to turn the ignition on with the new key to get it to learn the transponder code.

I was think about going this route and just cutting off the key part and leaving just the head in the box. Sound feasible?

Thank you!

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2011 F-250 Super Duty

Very feasible. Go on FleaBay. Get a N.I.B. 556UW universal bypass module for around $15. Get a Ford 80 Bit "SA" key for about $20. There is a N.I.B. PKTX listed for $44, too.

You can leave the key un-cut and still program it to the truck. Just follow the normal programming procedure to add a new key using the two factory keys, then insert the blank key into the ignition switch and do a remote start. posted_image Getting the key cut, programming it to the truck and then removing the blade works, too. Just secure the key head in the box so it can't shift.

The programming for the FLCAN or ADS module is a multi-step process. Basically flash the program, install in vehilce and gather specific key data, remove from vehicle and upload data, download/flash bypass with specific program for vehicle, re-install in vehicle. The blank key in the box is the least expensive, next is the PKTX and EVO-Ride ( both are DIY-able ).

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Soldering is fun!

As long as you have 2 original keys you can just get a blank key to program. Put the blank in a key in box bypass start car with key one shut off start woth key two then remote start it to program the third key which is the blank. I would not advise to cut off metal part of key as the bpass uses that part to hold the key down and prevent movement.

Thank you Kreg and mobileedgeny

I'm buying the KITB and 80 bit key off ebay now.

I appreciate the help. I'll update the thread when I get the KITB installed.. It will be nice to be able to use the R/S :-)

I just picked up the PKTX off ebay for $43
I also bought an 80 bit key with out all the factory keyless buttons so it isn't so bulky attached to the big Viper 5901 remote.

Seems like it's the best option for what I'm trying to accomplish here...

Thanks Kreg for mentioning it.

Would anyone know where I can find a replacement valet toggle switch and wiring that plugs into the Viper module?

I must have left it in my Dodge when I traded it. Without it I cannot use the R/S.

I've searched ebay, Amazon and Directed's website and all I can find is the toggle itself with out the plug that goes into the module.

Thank you.

just get an extra valet switch and use the plug from that and splice it to the toggle switch. i believe they are same size.

Yeah, that's kinda what I was asking...where to find one but I found a two wire plug off a PC tower fan in my PC parts bag that fits the alarm module so I made it work

Thanks

You guys are probably already getting sick of me but I need help...

Let me begin by saying I cannot find a 2011 wiring diagram so I am using a 2010 and the colors are different, the locations for the connections are right so that is mostly what I'm using it for.
I am having to probe every wire to find the ones I need..It's extremely time consuming.

Now I have the alarm pretty much installed, it arms, disarms, locks & unlocks the truck, shock and motion sensors working, door triggers working and it will remote start (but dies, no bypass yet)

My problems are the parking light connection, the hood pin connection and the tach connection.
I don't have the bypass yet so it will just start and stall out. I also found out while hooking up the viper that I have a factory alarm... I had no idea I had one. My dash lCD display keeps telling me "To cancel alarm start vehicle within 15 seconds" The viper is making the factory alarm go off when I disarm the viper.
I'm not exactly sure why...I have the key sense wire hooked up. (but not sure if it's right)

Now I think I fried something in my parking light circuit trying to get them hooked up. The 2010 wiring diagram says:

Parking light + PURPLE / white Drivers kick, harness to engine
or
Parking Light - Yellow/orange Headlight switch

I probed and found both wires, the hot when parking lights on and the negative when parking lights on (Neg is open when the P/L are off) and so I originally went with the - connection and I had no parking lights at all with arm and disarm. I then reversed the polarity of the P/L wire and hooked it to the + wire I found in the drivers kick and then I had all lights, parking and headlamps. I disconnected the alarms P/L wire from the truck and now my lights will not shut off at all. I had to pull the rear parking, front parking, L headlamp and R headlamp fuses to get them to turn off.

I screwed something up and not sure what.

I apologize in advance for being a pest but can somebody please help me get this thing hooked up. I can't even take it anywhere now because "I" started installing it. Nobody will touch it.

If anyone knows what I need to replace to fix my lights not going off will be extremely helpful as well. I can't afford to pay the dealer to tell me it's something stupid like the headlamp switch or something..

As for the tach wire...I am aware I can hook it to any injector (except blue) to pull a signal...problem is I have the twin turbo EcoBoost and it has direct injection so the injectors are buried in the center of the engine, under the intake and I cannot get to any of them. I cant find the harness that comes out of there with the injector wires to tie into so I am not sure where else I can pull a tach signal from.

I can offer a donation to anyone knowledgeable in the 2011 to give me some honest help. I need some verification to what I have already hooked to be sure it's correct and to finish what is not done yet.

Thank you,
Jess

You can not use the negative wire, as far as i know, you likely have fried the head light switch (circuit board) The PURPLE / White + drivers kick to engine compartment is the correct parking light wire.

Not familiar with the tach wire on these hopefully someone else chimes in!

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To master and control electricity is perfection. *evil laugh*

you burned up the headlight switch. need to replace it. can't hook direct neg to it. use pos lights or go to trailer plug.

you shouldn't need tach. set voltage for 4 sec crank. it should have over crank protection.

Oh, and you must pulse the + ignition wire, Disarm wire, unlock wire, turn on wire (GWR) on the bypass, and possibly the + accessory wire to disarm the factory alarm. Multiple relays and/or diodes will be needed for this.

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To master and control electricity is perfection. *evil laugh*

racerjames76 wrote:

You can not use the negative wire, as far as i know, you likely have fried the head light switch (circuit board) The PURPLE / White + drivers kick to engine compartment is the correct parking light wire.

Not familiar with the tach wire on these hopefully someone else chimes in!

Thanks, I had it hooked to the Purple white + and nothing worked. The problem I'm finding is that they use the same color wires multiple times in each harness so it makes it very confusing.

mobileedgeny wrote:

you burned up the headlight switch. need to replace it. can't hook direct neg to it. use pos lights or go to trailer plug.

Thank you...Trailer plug...Never thought of that..Great idea!

mobileedgeny wrote:

you shouldn't need tach. set voltage for 4 sec crank. it should have over crank protection.

It has "tip start" so basically it starts itself...I bump the key and it starts it by itself... So I can eliminate the tach wire? That sounds good to me!

racerjames76 wrote:

Oh, and you must pulse the + ignition wire, Disarm wire, unlock wire, turn on wire (GWR) on the bypass, and possibly the + accessory wire to disarm the factory alarm. Multiple relays and/or diodes will be needed for this.

Please tell me your kidding... :-(
goodness, All I wanted was remote start for the cold mornings lol.

Not trying to be a jerk, but this is why it costs $200-$400 for a pro to do it...

It really isn't as complicated as it sounds. There are multiple diagrams available (none of which i have access to until Friday), but someone should post it up soon.

I agree with forgetting about the tach wire as long as the viper is happy with it lol

Future reader tip, that large harness has the PURPLE / white brake wire in it also. Thats why there are multiple wires of the same color. :)

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To master and control electricity is perfection. *evil laugh*

I understand... This system was originally installed in my Ram by me...I didnt have any problems. I took it out when I traded the truck to put it in here..
I couldn't find anyone willing to install a previously installed system so I figured I'd do it again.. I couldn't afford to pay another $500 for the alarm when this one works fine.

Trust me, if I could of found someone to put it in, or afforded it I would have done it. Trust me!

I don't mind and don't usually have problems doing stuff like this when I have good diagrams to go by...being the truck is a 2011 there isn't much literature out there yet for the public.

as for the brake wire, I just pulled it directly from the switch. It was easy to get to.

You can repair the Headlight/Parking Light PCB if your eyes are good and can solder. Do a search on it. There should be some other posts on this forum about this problem ( been happening for several model years now ). Another safe place to get the Parking Lights is at the SJB.

Just as a note on the Alarm issue, newer Compustar systems have this programming option :

Menu-Item Description
1-11 Ignition / Accessory Out Upon Unlock

Opt 1 = Off ( Default )
Opt 2 = Ignition Pulse-same timing as disarm pulse
Opt 3 = Acc Pulse-same timing as disarm pulse
Opt 4 = Ign and Acc Pulse-same timing as disarm pulse

Cuts down on relays and diodes..........

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Soldering is fun!

https://www.directechs.com/tech_docs/Document26147-2049.pdf Hopefully you can read that, if not I will convert to an image

Looks like i was off on whats needed. The 2 sqaures with a stripe on them coming off the unlock wire are 1 amp diodes.

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To master and control electricity is perfection. *evil laugh*

kreg357 wrote:

Almost forgot. A little gotcha... Use the (+) Parking Light wire at the SJB ( aka BCM ) in the passenger kick panel.

Sorry, I tried to warn you back on Page 1. It's a pretty common error... posted_image

Here is a link to another post on repairing the parking light switch PCB : https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=110416&KW=jim+hunter&tpn=1

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Soldering is fun!

kreg357 wrote:

You can repair the Headlight/Parking Light PCB if your eyes are good and can solder. Do a search on it. There should be some other posts on this forum about this problem ( been happening for several model years now ). Another safe place to get the Parking Lights is at the SJB.

Thanks Kreg, I'll try and find it... I tried to find it at the SBJ/BCM first but had no luck... 500 wires and no clue what color I was hunting for.

racerjames76 wrote:

https://www.directechs.com/tech_docs/Document26147-2049.pdf Hopefully you can read that, if not I will convert to an image

Looks like i was off on whats needed. The 2 sqaures with a stripe on them coming off the unlock wire are 1 amp diodes.

Thanks, All I get is the log in page for directech..Wont let me view the pdf.

kreg357 wrote:

kreg357 wrote:

Almost forgot. A little gotcha... Use the (+) Parking Light wire at the SJB ( aka BCM ) in the passenger kick panel.

Sorry, I tried to warn you back on Page 1. It's a pretty common error...

Here is a link to another post on repairing the parking light switch PCB : https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=110416&KW=jim+hunter&tpn=1

I know you did Kreg, I honestly kept your post in mind when I was hunting the connection but I somehow did it wrong anyway.

Thanks for the link...I really appreciate it.

Took my headlight switch apart and I cannot find anything burnt on the circuit board. I looked along with my wife and neither of us can see anything that looks like it even got hot. So I don't know what to think now.

Isn't the 09 and older a different body style and different switch?
My switch has no screws and snaps together.

posted_image

I'm inclined to think I may have damaged the automatic headlight controller.

Nice pictures. Think the 2009 and 2010 are the same. Never had to take one apart.

While the (+)Parking Light wire color might have changed on the 2011's to Yellow/Blue, it still at SJB Plug E, Pin 6 in the Passenger Kick Panel. Plug E should be on the right side, second one down from top.

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Soldering is fun!

Thanks Kreg,

Thanks to all of you for your assistance and "Happy Thanksgiving"

I appreciate that info Kreg... The 2010 diagram shows it listed in the second plug from the bottom... which is why I tried the drivers kick. I couldn't find the P/L at the SBJ second plug from the bottom.

I do have a question... a couple posts up it was said that I needed to relay, pulse and diode isolate several wires to disarm the factory alarm to be able to use this viper in the F-150... I thought that was the purpose of the PKTX bypass to signal the truck (ie: disable the Factory alarm) to allow the R/S to operate.

I am now facing either buying a $90 headlight switch not knowing if that's the problem and hoping it fixes it or taking it to the dealer and letting them soak me for 4 or 5 hours labor finding and fixing my headlights.
Or
I can take all of this Viper out and try to hide the fact I put it in and play dumb and see if they fix it under warranty.

I imagine that if it's the auto headlamp controller it's gonna be expensive. I tried to find it online to see where it's located in the truck but no such luck...

Again, you all are great and I really appreciate your help but I now gotta focus on getting my headlights fixed and then go from there on a alarm/remote start system.

I just wish Fords new plug and play system was more elaborate and had shock sensors... it would be so simple.

Jess

Disarming the alarm, and bypassing the transponder are 2 different beasts. The PKTX or whatever interface you chose, is simply to supply the BCM with the missing Transponder signal.

Disarming the Content Theft Alarm is entirely different requiring giving the truck everything it normally sees if you had pressed unlock and had the warning message and simply turned on the key to disarm that part.

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To master and control electricity is perfection. *evil laugh*

Ok, that explains it better...I was under the impression the PKTX provided the truck all it needed to work with the Viper.

I will have to reevaluate this whole situation and see if I want to continue with this viper install unless of course there is a simple way around this. I don't want to risk any more damage to my "new" truck.

All this would have been very easy for me if I just could of found the "2011" diagram in the first place. I installed this alarm in my Ram a year ago and from start to finish it took me 4 hours...but I had a good diagram with all the correct wire colors and locations.

Makes a big difference when you have what you need lol

Honestly it sounds like you are just overwhelmed, and I dont blame ya one bit. It really isnt as hard as it appears. Ford actually is one of the last manufacturers to retain use of simple 12 volt electronics. Try a new chrysler product and then you can say you can do anything! lol

Definitely get the head lights working before you go any further, any aftermarket system needs the factory stuff to work before it can work.

Check around with vehicle forums, alot of times there will be dealer parts guys hanging around on there offering deep discounts on things like this. Especially if it is a known common problem. Quick googling brought up a few cheap sources but they all had the incorrect part shown.

Alot of times us pro's don't even have a diagram for a new vehicle, and we are forced to go back to basics and bust out the Digital MultiMeter DMM. When in doubt bust it out! :0)

If you truely feel you cant complete the install with our help, and the help of the rest of the internet, by all means pull it all out, put it back to stock and save up to have a new one installed by a pro. Nothing wrong with knowing your limits!

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To master and control electricity is perfection. *evil laugh*

I'm not overwhelmed "persay" I just don't want to damage anything else... I paid $44,000 for this truck and I can't afford to break it.

When did Chrysler go to the "difficult" wiring... I know my 2006 Ram was simple as hell. The most difficulty I had with it was getting the IOM-Chrysler-7 bypass programmed... It was a bear but did eventually program.

I only have these wires left from the alarm to hook up:

White + parking light wire
WHITE/ violet tach wire (which I'm told isn't needed)
Orange - ground when armed output
Dark Blue - status output (which I believe goes to the PKTX)
Grey - hood pin input (I need to buy a new pin switch, mine broke and the factory switch is open when the hood is open. Alarm looks for ground when hood open.)
Green - door trigger wire

everything else is hooked up and is working... It arms, disarms, locks, unlocks, goes off when I open a door, shock sensors and motion detector working & remote starts but stalls without the bypass. Bypass should arrive via UPS tomorrow. Right now I get a R/S error on my LCD Viper remote which I assume is due to no bypass installed.

It is a very clean install with everything hidden and all the wires in wire wrap.. much cleaner install then my Ram was lol

Seems all I'm lacking is disarming the factory alarm at this point.
so I don't think I am overwhelmed...just a bit confused and don't want to mess anything else up.

Jess

Well they aren't so much difficult as just complicated. Alot of computer controled crap. lol

After the problems with Honda's a few years ago I no longer do starter kill relays, so that and the Ground When Armed I would forget about as well.

I mean really all you are doing is pointing out which wire is the starter wire right? And, of course opening the door for it to leave you stranded some day.

Like I said, just think about what the truck is seeing when you are disarming the content theft system. Unlock and disarm, alarm activates, then transponder, ignition, key sense, and accessory.

You can pulse all of those at the same time, or which ever ones are needed anyways.

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To master and control electricity is perfection. *evil laugh*

Thanks Racer... I'll figure it all out when I get my truck back..
I'm not going to continue any further on it until I can find a complete 2011 F-150 wiring diagram.
I purchased a month subscription to www.motorcraftservice.com to download the 2011 wiring however the way they have it listed online it's hard to decipher. You cant just pull up a connection and see what is in that plug. I'm hoping to figure it out.

I took it in to the dealer this morning and around 11am they sent me home in a rental.

They swapped a headlight switch and a SJB from a new truck off the lot and it didn't fix it. So they are telling me it appears to be a shorted wire in the dash harness and I'm looking at 3 days repair time if he can't find it quickly.

I'll keep you all posted on what they find...

Ouch on that news, sorry to hear. Those dealer manuals are helpful, but are typically laid out in engineering form, not the typical diagrams we are used to seeing. Easiest way is to find the section of exterior lighting or whatever it is called, and use that to begin to track down what you need.

One other source I saw said to use the negative wire at the switch, the black ground wire had to be split open while the ground is applied to the correct wire. I don't think it sounded like a good idea, but may help us to understand how the system works, and may help you make sense of those factory diagrams.

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To master and control electricity is perfection. *evil laugh*

I find with trouble vehicles or easy vehicles i have troubles with, it is simply a matter of who is more stubborn...you or the vehicle! lol

Worst case, you go to each parking lamp, split open with a relay the positive side, and feed power directly to each bulb. Yes, I have done that when I got frustrated and exhausted all other options. Not fun, and definitely shouldn't be required here.

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To master and control electricity is perfection. *evil laugh*

Well hopefully I'll figure it all out Racer... I keep researching everything.

I didn't hear anything from the dealer today so I guess it will be next week now.

On another note, another member on here sent me a PM and suggested wirecolor.com for info so I went and bought a 1 vehicle subscription.

They don't let you copy and paste the info but I was able to snapshot all the info so I'm posting it here for anyone else hunting this particular truck. So here you go, you guys have been very helpful to me so I hope this can help somebody else on here:

Smart Junction Box:
posted_image

Ignition plug:
posted_image

Lock/Unlock wires:
posted_image

Parking light + at SJB (according to wirecolor.com):
posted_image

Great info! Thanks.

While the wire colors have changed from the 2010 somewhat, the SJB plug layout is similar. The Lock and Unlock wires can also be found in Plug C of the SJB (top plug, left side), Pins 6 and 8, respectively.

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Soldering is fun!

Thanks Kreg,

I think between all of us putting our heads together we can come up with a solid diagram for the '11....

I also want to throw out there that I know for a fact the 2010 and 2011 are different in terms of wire colors so I can not confirm as of yet if the wiring I just posted is accurate therefore I want anyone using it to please verify connections beforehand so they don't end up with a problem as I have.

Ok I got the PKTX yesterday in the mail and I was looking over the install instructions and they look simple enough.... I do however have a question.

It says I have the choice of a regular connection or a D2D connection if the Viper supports D2D, which it does...

My question is, can somebody explain to me the purpose of the D2D and how it makes the install easier?

The instructions/programing are a bit confusing because it says to hook up the D2D to program and then for the last step it says to disconnect it and go back to step one...

based on the instructions it appears it is only needed for programing but my Viper shows it's connected permanently...

Thanks guys

Just another update:

Just heard from the dealer, They have narrowed it down to the dash harness and ordered a new one which should be in tomorrow. So I should be able to pick it up tomorrow.

Maybe you accidentally sliced across multiple wires without realizing? I don't think there is an installer alive who hasn't done this at least once.

Well glad they figured it out anyways.

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To master and control electricity is perfection. *evil laugh*

While anything is a possible, I seriously doubt it. I am very cautious working with any wiring. In all honestly, I think I just tied into the wrong wire.

I'm certainly not an "installer" by any means however I've installed probably close to 30 or 40 car alarm and remote starts since I was in high school and I've never experienced anything like this before.

As thin as the wires are on my truck, my guess is I accidentally powered a ground with that parking light wire from the alarm and burnt a ground wire in the harness. They are really thin wires.

anyway, it is what it is....I'll find out tomorrow if I'm paying a huge bill or not. I hope not lol.

Wonderful News guys!

Picked her up last night and it's fixed.

I may NOT have caused this after-all... It's hard to tell at this point.

I spoke with the tech that worked on her and he said that I actually had two problems..but he thinks one caused the other...It's hard to tell.

He found the dash wiring harness was pinched where the dash bolts into the cab. Probably happened during assembly. He replaced it and then discovered the headlamps switch was shorted out so he replaced that and it was fixed.

He believes the pinched/shorted wires shorted out the switch.

So I have a new dash harness properly routed and a new switch...

And the best part of all.... NO CHARGE. Warranty covered it all, even the rental truck.

Very happy camper now.

So I guess I'll get back on this month long viper install Saturday when I'm off work.

Great post thanks for the input

Excellent! posted_image Buy that dealers service personnel a couple of dozen doughnuts on your next visit!

To answer your PKTX D2D question...

The D2D harness can be used to save some wiring between the bypass module and the Viper. In your case, the PKTX is only performing the bypass function and it only saves you 3 wires ( Power, ground and GWR ). With other modules and vehicle applications, the number of wire connections eliminated can be 12 or more. Check out the DB-ALL install guide on a 2010 Titan. D2D saves like 14 wire connections ( if it works, I still go W2W ).

That last step in the PKTX programming guide ( disconnecting the 4 Pin D2D harness ) is only necessary if the LED gos solid red after you get the ten blinks and step on the brake pedal ( to cancel the remote start up ). Basically you are starting the process all over with a reset.

-------------
Soldering is fun!

Good to hear on the no cost fix :)

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To master and control electricity is perfection. *evil laugh*

kreg357 wrote:

Excellent! Buy that dealers service personnel a couple of dozen doughnuts on your next visit!

Yeah I need to do something for them.

racerjames76 wrote:

Good to hear on the no cost fix :)

Yes it is....I'm very happy. The harness alone was over $400.

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2011 F-250 Super Duty

Well guys, I have conceded in defeat.

I feel very defeated and quite frustrated with myself.

I reinstalled the Viper, programmed the bypass and everything worked but the remote start. It would start it but immediately shut off.
I went through everything verifying, double and even triple checking connections and everything was right. I made sure the bypass programmed and even reprogrammed it multiple times and each time the same thing. Would start and shut right off even with the key in the ignition.

I've wasted enough time trying to put this Viper in this truck so I'm putting the Viper and all the add-on's I've bought on ebay.
(Second shock sensor, Field disturbance sensor, voice module)

Hopefully I can get enough out of it to cover the Ford OEM remote start or possibly another system that WILL work with the 2011 security.

It's very frustrating!

posted_image

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2011 F-250 Super Duty

I forgot to tell all of you I am very grateful for the help and info you all offered. It was very much appreciated! Thank you!
I guess it just wasn't ment to be posted_image

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2011 F-250 Super Duty

dont give up so easily yet. your problem was a tach error. the xk doesnt offer a good tach output in my opinion.

from the viper unit, connect the tach to the vehicle and it will start up every time.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

I appreciate the info but another member told me in this thread that the tach shouldn't be needed.
I have the Eco Boost which has direct injection and the injectors are buried under the intake so I can't get to them to hook to.

I have spent hours, and I mean hours on this thing and I am at a loss. I need a "Key Sense" + wire so I used the one from the PKTX and every time I plugged it into the key sense it would drop power. It had power until it made contact with the Key sense wire then it would go to zero. So I took a relay and went to make one by grounding the relay to the chassis and using the alarms + accessory wire to power it so it only powered the key sense when I activated the R/S. I kept getting some kind of back-feed so everytime I hooked to the key sense wire it would turn the ignition on.

Something is definitely different with the F-150 then I have ever worked with before. Just the wire sized used on the ignition really surprised me when I first opened her up... I dunno. I'd love it in there and I'm sure it will work but I guess I am not proficient enough in these new systems to figure it all out.

Thanks

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2011 F-250 Super Duty

I called a couple of the alarm places around here to see if they would take a look at it and see what I was doing wrong and as soon as I told them I have it 90% installed they weren't interested in touching it.

I found one place (Best Buy) that would even consider installing it and they told me to completely take it out and they will look at what I got and give me a price on installing it if it isn't too much additional work installing a used system.

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2011 F-250 Super Duty

as an installer its much harder to fix someones work, i would rather rip it out and start over.

i think you should save the buck and attempt again, or find a member that installs on the board.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

I probably will if it doesn't sell on eBay. when I get frustrated enough I walk away for a while but I usually don't give up for good. it eats at me when something I know I can do wins lol

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2011 F-250 Super Duty

take the challenge on, in the end you will thank yourself for saving the buck, and knowledge gained.

i will send you over wiring diagrams/guided picture installs from fortin, wiremagic, and astro. im sure you will have it up and running.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Thank you! Anything that you can offer will be helpful and truly appreciated.

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2011 F-250 Super Duty

shoot me a PM with your email, and i shall forward some useful docs over.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Done.

One of the main things that bugged me when I installed it before was all the left over wires from the Viper... I had a ton of unused wires and it left me wondering if I missed something, hence the R/S not staying running...

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2011 F-250 Super Duty

If you really think the info you have will help me get it in and working let me know because the Alarm is currently on eBay and with two days left the bidding is not far from hitting my reserve now and I want to end it before it hits the reserve.

thanks

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2011 F-250 Super Duty

you would have to be the judge of that, however the info forwarded is pretty much a step by step. just don't forget to test the wires.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

OK, I ended the auction and plan to give it one more try this week end. wish me luck and thank you again Tedmond.

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2011 F-250 Super Duty

Does anyone know exactly what voltage the viper is looking for, for the tach wire?

I can't get to the injectors on this EcoBoost so I was wondering if I can use the feed for one of the coils...

I have three wires going to each coil, one is 12v when it's running, the other fluctuates from .12 to .50 as you rev the engine so I am thinking this may work for my tach wire.

Thanks

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2011 F-250 Super Duty

I went on Xpresskit's site and tried to find an answer under support but I couldn't find anything. I'm hoping one of you guys know.

What does it mean when the LED on the PKTX does "2 flash then pause" over and over?

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2011 F-250 Super Duty

It's back in the truck except this time I am focusing solely on the remote start first and not messing with all the other stuff.

It didn't take me long to get it back in (I'm getting pretty good at this in and out crap) and I've verified all the wires and unfortunately it won't remote start unless a key is in the ignition.

With a key in the ignition (off position) it remote starts and remains running (I was able to pull a tach signal off a coil)

Take the key out and the R/S goes through it's sequence but the starter doesn't engage. the ignition comes on and I can hear the on-board R/S starter relay engage and I verified 12v is being applied to the starter side but the starter doesn't do anything...

So I have to figure this out.

I'm also not sure if the PKTX is programing. It doesn't give any kind of indication whether it's programmed or not... I can program it and one time it will give me 10 LED flashes and then nothing and the next time I try to program it, it gives me the 2 flashes pause over and over. None of the LED's on the bypass come on during the R/S process which I find odd.

I don't think this thing likes me.

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2011 F-250 Super Duty

Here are my exact connections. Can somebody please look this over and see what, if anything is wrong or incomplete?

All the connections at the ignition switch and transponder are soldered so I can't see there being a poor connection issue here.

FROM VIPER TO TRUCK, R/S HARNESS 10 PIN

Orange to PURPLE / green
Pink to ORANGE / White
Purple to Blue/White Starter side
Green to Blue/white Ignition side
RED / White to Battery
RED / Black to Battery
Red to Battery

VIPER MAIN HARNESS 12 PIN

Red to Battery
Black to ground

Viper H2 HARNESS 18 PIN

PURPLE / White to Coil (Tach Signal)
BLACK/ White to Ground (Neutral Safety)
Dark Blue to Dark Blue on bypass (-Status input)
Brown to PURPLE / White (+ brake switch input)

PKTX CONNECTIONS (From bypass to truck)

PURPLE / White to PURPLE / Gray at Transponder plug (RX)
Yellow/Black to Yellow/Black at transponder plug (TX)
Pink to PURPLE / Orange (Immo Power)

As I said earlier, the Starter does not do anything unless a key is in the ignition in the off position. It remote starts fine and stays running with a key in it... Take the key out and the R/S goes through it's sequence but the starter does nothing.

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2011 F-250 Super Duty

All looks right, I don't see keysense listed..Maybe thats the problem? Wrap the key head in aluminum foil ( shiny side out) so that the matal key blade is the only thing sticking out(to block the rf chip in the key). This will tell us if it is key sense or a bypass issue. There is a 2nd status out you can use on the viper (blue/white - ) (must relay to positive if using a positive key sense wire).

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To master and control electricity is perfection. *evil laugh*

Ok here's an update:

After posting my wire connections I had to leave so I unplugged the bypass because it was hanging in my way to drive it. I put the bypass in my center console and left for about 2 hours.

I got your post RacerJames, on my phone, while I was gone so when I got home about 15 minutes ago I had planned on doing your suggestion.

I get home and reprogram the bypass (because it was unplugged for the last 2 hours) to do racerjames idea and low and behold it remote starts!!!!!

I've remote started it about 10 times now with no problems so it seems like it is now working...

I have no idea why it wasn't working before as I did nothing different this time as I did on the previous 20 program attempts lol.

YEA!!!!!! I was really beginning to believe this just wasn't meant to be!

So now that the R/S is working (I can't say YEA enough) I can move on to all the other stuff. I've got to figure out how to get the Viper to disarm the oem content alarm when I disarm the viper. Last time I had it in there it kept setting off the oem alarm when I disarmed the viper.

Thanks Racerjames for the suggestion... I appreciate all the input from you guys... It keeps me from giving up.

Jess

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2011 F-250 Super Duty

I've finished for the night... Too difficult to see with a drop light.

I have most everything hooked up including the parking lights which is a different color wire then the DirectWire shows for the 2011. I need to go back and look at it again and post the correct color for others who may need it.

It appears now that the bypass is working right, the OEM alarm is getting whatever it needs to disarm as I am no longer getting the Alarm Alert on my LCD screen when I disarm the Viper. So that seems to have remedied itself. (Thank god)

I still have dome light supervision to hook up and I've got to figure out why the Voice module is not working...Other then that, It seems to be pretty much completed.

I am trilled that I've finally gotten near the end of this project, and I couldn't have done it without you guys so I thank each one of you.

This project has reaffirmed my belief that I need to keep my day job and not jump into stuff like this head on without doing the proper research first. Trying to "figure it out" as you go is quite difficult.

Jess

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2011 F-250 Super Duty

I am a bit confused on this dome supervision....

On the Violet H1 wire the Viper wants to see 12v when a door is open and rest at ground when it's closed. So I hooked the Violet (+ door trigger input from H1) to the gray/purple at the BCM which is + Dome supervision according to the DirectWire.
The gray/purple at the BCM provides 12v when doors are open but it's open when the doors are closed. So it's not triggering the rearm process when the last door is closed. So obviously I have this wrong.

Please correct me if I'm wrong but If I can find the right dome connection then I think I can avoid all the diode and resistor connections needed for all 4 door triggers as the Viper can use the dome light to determine when a door is open right?

as a note, the Ram I took this out of had 12v when the doors were open and rested at ground when they were closed so it saved me from having to hook to each door and worked fine.... This truck is obviously different.

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2011 F-250 Super Duty

I've built the Door trigger thing the DirectWire shows is needed...It's not pretty but I'm hoping it does the trick.

posted_image

Can somebody please explain to me what this thing does so I can better understand it's function?

After I got it done I applied 12v to the power wire to it...This gives me 12v at all the door outputs and 12v at the door trigger wire coming out of it.

All the inputs have nothing on them.

I'd just like to better understand what I've made here.

Thanks

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2011 F-250 Super Duty

I've looked through all the relay diagrams on here and can't seem to find one that will do what I need, if it's even possible. I'm wondering if I can even do this.

on the + Dome light wire (Purple) from my Viper, it's looking for 12v when the dome is on and ground when the dome is off.

The dome light wire in my truck is +12v when the dome is on and open when the dome is off so how can I put together a relay to allow the alarm to see 12v when the Dome is on and switch to negative output when the Dome light turns off without feeding that -neg into the trucks wiring?

The purpose of this is so the Viper will see the neg and know that the Dome has turned off (Doors have closed) and will begin the rearm process. Right now it won't begin the rearm process and when I manually arm the Viper it keeps telling me a door is open.

Thanks

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2011 F-250 Super Duty

Did you try these? Info from DEI.

Door Trigger BLACK/ white(-) security module, pin B12
Dome Supervision lt. blue(-) security module, pin A2

The security module is located under the passenger seat.

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Soldering is fun!

thanks Kreg, I didn't have that info.
I'm hooking up that door trigger box I built per the DirectWire now. if that doesn't solve this ill look into your idea.

thank you

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2011 F-250 Super Duty

Well low and behold I think I can f-i-n-a-l-l-y say I am done.

I built and installed that Door Trigger thing the DirectWire said it needed (pictures posted above) and to be totally honest I was not very confident installing that thing in my truck after my Parking light issue. Mostly because I wasn't entirely sure of what it was I was building and putting in my truck. But, I followed the diagram to the "T" and built it inside a Radio Shack project box so it looked somewhat decent and the door trigger thing worked...

I'm still unsure how or what in the heck it does but regardless it's providing what the Viper wants to see on the Violet +door trigger to make it work properly and it isn't causing any problems with my LCD display showing me which door is open...

The only issue still outstanding is my 516U voice module apparently has failed...It wont talk. I've verified the connections and all are ok so I guess it just decided to die on me so I'm gonna have to buy another one but that's no big deal. Other then that everything is working as it should.

So in light of my lack of understanding on a few things and the fact it has taken me three weekends working on it here and there, I have managed to successfully get this Viper installed in my F-150.

I realize that I have been a pain in the ass throughout this process with all my questions, some probably pretty stupid...I can't thank all of you enough for helping me get this in there. I couldn't have done it Without you guys.

When it comes time to trade trucks again I will not be taking this Viper out...It has found a new permanent home as long as I own this F-150 lol.

Thanks to all of you!
Jesse

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2011 F-250 Super Duty

can you indicate what colour the park lights you used

also how did you do this?

It appears now that the bypass is working right, the OEM alarm is getting whatever it needs to disarm as I am no longer getting the Alarm Alert on my LCD screen when I disarm the Viper. So that seems to have remedied itself. (Thank god)
??

please help!!!!! lol

I'll have to pull the SJB cover off to see exactly which wire I tied into for the parking lights...I've forgotten.

As for the rest of your question...I don't quite understand what you want to know..... Be specific in your questions and I'll answer the best I can.

J

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2011 F-250 Super Duty

how did figure out how to get the Viper to disarm the oem content alarm when I disarm the viper?

The Bypass is taking care of it.

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2011 F-250 Super Duty

so once you got everything working the bypass for the remote starter did the trick?

also how did you wire yup the unlock and lock wires too?

Yes the bypass for the remote starter is arming and disarming the oem alarm.

The lock and unlock wires are in the drivers kick panel. The wire colors are listed in this thread.

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2011 F-250 Super Duty

you don't need any diode to isolate the Door Trigger??

I've read in some other forum u need it?

when you can, please tell me what wire you tapped the park lights on

thanks

Please read this thread and I think most of your questions will be answered... Yes the doors need to be diode isolated... There are pictures of the door trigger diode box I built in this thread.

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2011 F-250 Super Duty

Door trigger box link

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2011 F-250 Super Duty

what i don't understand is what this is for?

this is to unlock the doors?

No, This box is for the Purple door trigger wire that goes to the alarm. The factory uses negative door triggers that open when you close the doors..

The alarm needs to see a positive door trigger that rests at ground when the doors close and this is what the diode box does... converts the door triggers to what the alarm needs to see.

There is now way I found to get around it on the 2011 F-150.

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2011 F-250 Super Duty

i can't just tap the door lock 3-pin connector to these wires?

posted_image

green to 70 lock and blue to 74 unlock

Your asking about two different things... The box is for the door triggers.

The picture you posted is for hooking up your lock and unlock from the alarm... You will still need to do the door trigger diode box.

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2011 F-250 Super Duty

okay can you post the specks on how you created that lil mod for the door triggers?

Primary harness (H1), 12-pin connector
H1/1 RED / WHITE (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT
H1/2 RED (+)12v CONSTANT INPUT
H1/3 BROWN (+) SIREN OUTPUT
H1/4 WHITE/ BROWN LIGHT FLASH ISOLATION WIRE - PIN 87a of onboard relay
H1/5 BLACK (-) CHASSIS GROUND
H1/6 VIOLET (+) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT
H1/7 BLUE (-) TRUNK PIN/ INSTANT TRIGGER INPUT
H1/8 GREEN (-) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT
H1/9 BLACK/ WHITE (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT OUTPUT
H1/10 WHITE/ BLUE (-) REMOTE START/ TURBO TIMER ACTIVATION INPUT
H1/11 WHITE PARKING LIGHT OUTPUT

looking at the install guide there two wires for the door trigger, h1/6 (+) and h1/8 (-)

that would mean i don't need the mod you built right? where do you connect this h1/6 wire to?
H1/12 ORANGE (-) 500mA GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT

I'm looking tat

This is what I have right now.... Anything more will have to be dug up another time as I have to get to bed for work... See if this helps you.

FROM VIPER TO TRUCK, R/S HARNESS 10 PIN

Orange to PURPLE / green
Pink to ORANGE / White
Purple to Blue/White Starter side
Green to Blue/white Ignition side
RED / White to Battery
RED / Black to Battery
Red to Battery

VIPER MAIN HARNESS 12 PIN

Red to Battery
Black to ground

Viper H2 HARNESS 18 PIN

PURPLE / White to Coil (Tach Signal)
BLACK/ White to Ground (Neutral Safety)
Dark Blue to Dark Blue on bypass (-Status input)
Brown to PURPLE / White (+ brake switch input)

PKTX CONNECTIONS (From bypass to truck)

PURPLE / White to PURPLE / Gray at Transponder plug (RX)
Yellow/Black to Yellow/Black at transponder plug (TX)
Pink to PURPLE / Orange (Immo Power)

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2011 F-250 Super Duty

i have the 2012 f150 crew cab and am pretty sure its a 80bit encryption, what are the connections for the xpresskit PKTX bypass?

according to the manual,

pin1 IMMO POWER -- what is this? Is the colour PURPLE / orange?
pin2 Ground -- colour black
pin3 TX -- whats the colour? on my truck pin 3 is yellow/orange
pin4 RX -- whats the colour? on my truck pin 4 is PURPLE / gray

is this right?

fordgru wrote:

i have the 2012 f150 crew cab and am pretty sure its a 80bit encryption, what are the connections for the xpresskit PKTX bypass?

according to the manual,

pin1 IMMO POWER -- what is this? Is the colour PURPLE / orange?
pin2 Ground -- colour black
pin3 TX -- whats the colour? on my truck pin 3 is yellow/orange
pin4 RX -- whats the colour? on my truck pin 4 is PURPLE / gray

is this right?

PURPLE / White to PURPLE / Gray at Transponder plug (RX)
Yellow/Black to Yellow/Black at transponder plug (TX)
Pink to PURPLE / Orange (Immo Power)

If your key has SA stamped in the metal it is most likely 80 bit.
The PKTX does both the 40 and 80 bit systems

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2011 F-250 Super Duty