viper 5301 mazda protege03

I have a Viper 5301 Currently mostly installed into my Mazda Protege 03.

I have wiring diagrams and install manuals.

Currently working: Parking lights & horn honk.
Not working: Remote Start & doors (I don't have the relays yet for the doors).

I'm trying to get the remote start to work currently.
When I hit the remote start button, the 5301 responds and the remote acknowledges the command. The 5301 will then try 3 times to start the car at 5 sec intervals. Each time, the parking lights flash once. after the third try, the remote emits an error message.

I've checked the voltages at the 5301 connector. The Purple (ignition - H3/1) wire actually drops it's voltage to -10mV when it tries to start the car. The same reading point obtains 12V when the ignition start is used. This implies that soldering job was sufficient.

My current wiring setup:
H1/2 - tied to Car's 12V
H1/3 - tied to horn trigger
H1/5 - grounded
H1/11 - parking light trigger

H2/9 - tied to Tach line
H2/17 - tied to Brake switch
H2/18 - Grounded

H3/1 - tied to ignition wire
H3/3 - Tied to Accessory line
H3/4 - Starter

Does anyone have any ideas?

How many flashes from the parking lights do you get after the third attempt?

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Do you have all of your large gauge RED / red WHITE/ red black tied in to 12 volts?

Is the unit in auto transmission mode?

Do you have the neutral saftey switch connected?


Need more info on your end.

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did you connect the rpm/tech pickup wire? does your protege have an imobilizer system?. ive just run through a nightmare of programming problems with one of these

as a note my 5301 would not start the vehicle without a teach input. also you may need to teach the virtual tach (start car with regular key, once at idle hold valet button until it blinks)

1. Yes, the tach line is connected (assuming I found the correct line - the wire bundle is not accessible to find the individual pin - so I had to go by color).

2.Neutral safety line is tied to ground

3. I changed the system to automatic transmition mode

4. There is only a single flash of the lights after the 3rd attempt

5. I am unaware of any imobilizer system. I've looked it up, but didn't find anything.



I'll try to teach the car the virtual tach and try that.

buddholly wrote:

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Do you have all of your large gauge RED / red WHITE/ red black tied in to 12 volts?

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Which large gauge wires? On the Car's end, or the 5301?

For the 5301, I have no large gauge wires tied to 12V. Only one of the smaller gauge wired (labeled +12VDC constant input on the 5301 wire diagram).

On that H3 harness there are three heavy gauge wires that are fused with 30 amp fuses.  Those need to be connected to the constant 12volt source.

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I didn't feel the direction of the 30 A fuse lines were clear, so I didn't do anything with them. However, I soldered them all together to the 12V line and the car starts now easily.

Thank you guys for the help and clarification.


So, now onto the second question - getting the door lock/unlock working. According to my car wiring sheet, the door lock/unlock is a single line. Based on this, the sheet tells me that I have to use a relay with a 1000 ohm resistor to get the doors to work correctly. Can anyone show me a diagram or give me a better idea on what actually has to be done?

Use the 451m in the box.

Violet and Violet/Black to Ground

Blue/Black to Lt. GREEN/ Red

Cut the Green Black wire in half, put butt connectors on the pieces you just cut, insert the 1000 ohm resistor in the butt connectors, then run to Lt.GREEN/ Red

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