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ultra start 1272 r/s issues

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=128936
Printed Date: April 29, 2024 at 7:04 AM


Topic: ultra start 1272 r/s issues

Posted By: boulderguy
Subject: ultra start 1272 r/s issues
Date Posted: October 22, 2011 at 2:36 AM

Have just installed an Ultra Start 1272 remote starter in a 2002 Ford Econoline & have a couple issues for anyone familiar with their products.

First, the parking lights aren't blinking, they're staying lit solidly anytime either the ignition is in the run position or during programming. With previous Ultra Start units they always blinked the way you'd expect them too. There's an audible relay click as soon as they're powered up (in the RS) but it doesn't un-click. Anyone run across this? They will blink properly with keyless entry.

Also, no tach learning success (using a wire to CTO under hood, tests positive for AC). The program LED flashes rapidly when engine is running but never learns the tach. I'm using a relay on the starter wire which means the RS isn't seeing 12v+ from the starter wire when engine is keyed into ignition - is this significant?

Tried auto-tach/tachless but no luck there either. Will try a hard system reset in the AM.

The only thing atypical about this install is lots of relays on the ignition wires. One on the starter, one on accessory #3 (triggered by acc#2) & one on ignition #2 (trigger IGN#1). It's a 7.3l diesel needing lots of current - the starter wire off the key cylinder is freaking 10 awg.

Any ideas?



Replies:

Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: October 22, 2011 at 7:03 AM

As with most remote starters, the Ignition1 and Starter1 wire must see a direct connection
to the vehicle. 

In the case of the Ultra Starts Blue Ignition wire, it is used for programming, to know the
car is ON with the key, and for Tachless voltage sampling.  As such the U1272s' Blue wire
must be connected directly to the vehicles Ignition1 wire.

After a Factory Reset ( or the first time out of the box ), the Yellow Starter wire is used
to know when the car has been started so the Ultra Start can begin its' automatic first Tach
Learn by checking the Blue/White Tach wire for a valid Tach signal.  If you used this Yellow
wire to trigger a relay, you have insulated it from the vehicle.  Newer U1272's can / should
handle this by allowing the vehicle to idle for 30-35 seconds.  I have found it easier, on
vehicles with no Starter wire ( newer Chevrolets, etc ), to start the vehicle with the key,
allow engine to warm up, then quickly apply +12v to the U1272's unused Yellow Starter wire.
This will trigger the first Tach Lean process.

Try a Factory Reset and make sure you get the three Beeps / Flashes.  Pull the fuse on the
extra Starter Relay and start the van with a key.  After the engine is warmed up, use a
jumper to apply +12V to the U1272s' Yellow Starter wire.  That should trigger a Tach Learn.

Also, with a Diesel, don't forget to program a 20 second delay or connect the Blue Glow Plug
wire.



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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: boulderguy
Date Posted: October 22, 2011 at 9:15 AM
Thanks Kreg.

Thought about it this AM & I'm thinking the relays are tying together certain wires that shouldn't be connected - like ACC 2 & 3 for example. That may have something to do with the parking lites.

I'll check your ideas shortly & report back.




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: October 22, 2011 at 10:48 AM

2002 Econoline ( wire guides do not specify diesel, so yours might be different )

Bulldog Security info
12 VOLT CONSTANT             YELLOW (+)        @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
STARTER                                 WHITE/ PINK (+)    @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
STARTER 2                              N/A
IGNITION 1                               RED / GREEN (+)     @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
IGNITION 2                               BLACK/ GREEN (+)   @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
IGNITION 3                                N/A
ACC/HEATER BLOWER 1     GRAY / YELLOW (+)   @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
ACC/HEATER BLOWER 2     N/A

DEI info :
12volts                         yellow +             ignition harness
Starter                          WHITE/ pink +      ignition harness   
Second Starter           N/A    
Ignition                         RED / green +      ignition harness   
Second Ignition          N/A      
Third Ignition              N/A  
Accessory                   gray / YELLOW +    ignition harness   
Second Accessory   N/A    

AudioVox info :
Battery                  YELLOW  (+)                             IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS  
Ignition 1             RED / LIGHT GREEN  (+)         IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS  
Ignition 2             BLACK/ LIGHT GREEN  (+)     IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS  
Accessory 1        GRAY / YELLOW  (+)                  IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS  
Starter 1              WHITE/ PINK  (+)                        IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS

Yours sounds like a 2004 - 2008 Econoline, they have a bunch of ignition wires.
Three Light GREEN/ Purple +12V constants alone...



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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: boulderguy
Date Posted: October 22, 2011 at 3:35 PM
Yeah, sorta like that. 2 yellow constants, 2 RED / gr IGN, 1 BLACK/ gr IGN, 2 gray/yel ACC, and one starter. All between 12-10 gauge.

I've disconnected the R/S til I have a minute to play with it...

What's the difference between ACC & IGN in terms of what they power?




Posted By: boulderguy
Date Posted: October 22, 2011 at 8:06 PM
Problem solved, everything working great now. Thanks for the help.

To follow up for posterity's sake, the 'parking lights staying on' issue was resolved when the system tach-learned.

Getting the tach-learn to work was just like mentioned above, the system needed to have a signal to the yellow starter wire going to the R/S. I pulled the relay apart & used jumpers to send 12v+ to both the starter & the R/S, then the tach-learning process worked as planned.

None of the relays at the ignition cylinder were causing problems.

Also used a DEI 528t timer to get a 10-sec start delay. It wouldn't work with a negative trigger but it did go with a positive trigger.





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