2005 Honda Civic Si EP3, Viper 5902

Morning,

I've got conflicting information on wiring diagrams for a 2005 Honda Civic Si (ep3) model, the two door hatchback.

2002-2003 list a second ignition wire as BLACK/ red, but another listing I have shows the BLACK/ red as accessory.

Can someone post up if they have it, a wiring diagram/listing for this car? Thank you!

Another observation is the factory alarm. I can't find the arm/disarm wire at all. I've gotten conflicting info stating that it's a orange arm, brown disarm, but this hasn't been confirmed either.

Use a volt meter and see if the wire in question has power on it when attempting to start the car.  If it is an IGN wire it will have power under a starting condition.  If it is an ACC wire, it will have no power on it while the starter is turning over.

Thanks, I was having a blonde moment with no coffee in the AM. With my fluke next to me, the light came on. The alarm is in the car now, however I haven't figure'd out how to get the factory alarm to disarm/arm when the aftermarket alarm is armed/disarmed. Do I no longer use the OEM key fob? I've got the PKALL installed as well. I wanted to get the red led on the steering column to blink when the viper system is armed, so far no luck.

Well no such luck with the installation integrating with the honda factory alarm.

I have installed the PKALL, wired the 5902 up to the appropriate wires and door triggers. Diode isolated the triggers.

When you arm/disarm the car the red led on the steering column blinks rapidly then calms down to a slow steady blink. When the viper alarm is disarmed, the factory alarm is still armed, opening up the door will get the car to honk the horn. So you must click the unlock button on the factory keyfob as well. From the Civic manual, I can't find any alarm disarm wire to hook the Viper up to. I assumed the PKALL was going to take care of the arming/disarming of the factory alarm as I have it hooked up to the Viper D2D port.

Disarm will be brown...very small guage wire. Look behind the fusebox, you will see two harnesses wrapped in tape that come in from the drivers door. One of them has disarm, lock, and unlock.

Thanks all! I've gotten the factory alarm to work with the Viper 5902 now! The last problem I'm having, and it's too bad too, cause we're supposed to get 4-8" of snow tonight, is the remote start feature acts very odd.


Here's the scenario I'm experiencing.

Start car, push brake pedal down, engage e-brake, car is in neutral, take foot off brake and push remote start button on key fob, key fob reports remote start activated. I take the key out, and before I can get out of the car the car shuts off.

I don't know what I've done wrong, because I had another run with it, and it did the same exact thing as above, only this time the car stayed running while I had time to shut the drivers door and lock the car, then the car would shut off.

I've gotten all the appropriate wires hooked up or so I think. Do I just have another junk brain? My old Python 872 did this before, it would never just arm/disarm/remote start correctly.

:Sigh: bigtime on this cause I think I've exhausted all avenues of installation.

I know you said 2005 Civic, but I thought the Civic didn't get a factory alarm until 2006. Sure you have an '05?

As far as the reservation mode, I might have an idea for you. What did you use for door trigger? Domelight wire or individual doorpin wires with diodes?

One of my first manual-transmission remote starters was in a 2006 Civic Si 2-door.

I tried using the domelight as my door trigger, and I couldn't figure out why it wasn't working right.

The problem was that the car (and most Hondas, and many other cars too) turn on the domelight when the key is shut off. That made the remote starter think I had opened a door and cancelled the reservation mode.

So maybe it goes like this:

1. You park, and engage reservation mode.

2. You remove key, and domelight comes on momentarily. System thinks you've opened the door.

3. While you're getting your coat and wallet or whatever, the domelight times out. Remote start shuts off and is in ready mode.

4. Now you actually go to get out of the car to go into your house. Domelight comes on for a second time, and the remote starter thinks someone has been inside the car, which cancels ready mode.

Take your door trigger feed from the inst. panel door open display, instant shut down when door is closed, won't be affected by the dome light delay, will cure your last problem.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

This is an 05 Civic Si (hatchback). The factory car alarm is OEM, SECURITY SYSTEM CIVIC Si P/N 08E50-S5T-100, for 2002-2005 Honda Civic Si's. It's different than the other Honda security systems, because it has a green connector that hooks up to it, not two connectors as I've seen in the RSX, RSX-S and other Civic's. A link to the alarm from Honda is here --> https://www.handa-accessories.com/civic/03sialarm.pdf

Chris, you bring up a great point, I'll have to check that out when I get out of work today. I went with individual door pin wires and diode isolated each one. Front Left/Right door and hatch.

Howie, I'll also give that a once over mate. Cheers!

Had to step back from it for a few days as we got blasted with a snowstorm and lost power for three days, make that four now. I'll come back at it with a fresh head and hopefully get it sorted out before it dips into the teens and single digits!

Just pull the white plug, identify the wiring, e.g door triggers etc, join it to yours and ignore it, use the control unit for a paperweight if you like

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I double checked the dome light, it does come on after I take the key out, however, the remote start shutdown sequence worked, three times back to back this time. What isn't working is the actual remote starting now.

This 05 Civic Si has two switches on the clutch, one is for the cruise control, the other is the clutch safety switch, the plug is yellow, with a black and light green wire on it. It sees ground when the switch is depressed. I've hooked up the starter output 200ma wire to it, but when I activate the remote start, the dash lights come on, gauges register, but no clicking, the fuel pump primes but that's it, no cranking.

I have not hooked the parking light wire up yet, so I'm wondering if that has something to do with it.

You must have the "wrong" clutch switch.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Where exactly are you connecting your clutch bypass?  According to DirectTechs you can go to BLACK/ White in the fuse box to do clutch bypass... Are you getting to the point where you can get out of the car and still have the vehicle running or is it failing before that?

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The vehicle will stay running now with the remote start sequence. I can exit the car and then lock the car, the engine shuts off and the doors lock. It just won't start up. I'm wondering if the PKALL is defective, I went through the install process again, everything is hooked up correctly, the light flashed to register the key. I used the D2D port on the side of the 5902 unit, wondering if that needs to be disconnected and connected via the blue/white wire to the viper instead? Just grasping at straws and thinking out loud :)

The connections made to the car from the H3 harness are

H3 Green - Blk/White going toward ign switch

H3 Purple - Blk/White going toward starter

H3 Pink - Blk / YELLOW

H3 Orange - WHITE/ Red

H3 Red - White

H3 RED / Blk - White

What are you doing for a clutch bypass.  You should have your starter wires connected at the BLACK/ white wire in the fuse box.  It will be in the very top row, second plug.  That will do the clutch bypass.

Does it seem like the PKALL is programming correctly?

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I'm using the 200ma starter output (-) from the 18 pin H2 harness. It's hooked to the (-) clutch switch wire. I've even gone through the remote start sequence , sitting inside the car, then pressing the clutch down and it still won't crank. Gauge lights come on, fuel pump primes but that's it. I can count 5 relay clicks for the error, which is apparently the brake switch, but I don't buy that.

I've gone and spliced into those wires you mentioned but they're under the steering column. I sincerely appreciate everyone's suggestions and help with this!

The PKALL seems to have been programmed correctly. I went over it one more time to be sure.

Trying not to get negative about this but I'm starting to think I might have to just uninstall it. It's the only thing on my mind now, even at work, it's driving me nuts. lol.

Well, I would definetly recommend moving your starter wires to the one I said and disconnecting the (-) starter output all together.  Just to confirm, when you are entering MTS mode you get to the point where you can exit the vehicle, it stays running and you hit lock and it shuts down correct?  Or are you even getting that far?

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Yep, I am entering MTS mode, I can exit the vehicle, it will stay running till I hit the lock button, and then the motor shuts off.

The BLACK/ white wire I've tapped into, I've traced it to the second plug in the fuse box so I'm hooking it up at the right location. This wire is also cut with the ignition in/out hooked up.

When I go to engage the remote start it won't even crank, tried pushing on the clutch as well while it's trying to start, nothing, only the gauges move, fuel pump primes and then it shuts off and tries again.

The motor is supposed to shut off after you exit the vehicle and lock the car. 

 What do you mean ignition in/out is hooked up?  I have BLACK / YELLOW in that same plug listed as the correct igntion wire.

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I think he meant starter in and out, starter is BLACK/ white, ignition BLACK / YELLOW. I'm waiting for the usual question, why is the pink labelled ignition in/out?
By the way isn't there a second ACC on these?
What does the RED / black (not connected) do?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

The motor does shut off after I've exited the vehicle and locked the car with the remote.

I've got the pink wire on the viper going to the BLACK / YELLOW on the ignition harness.

The BLACK/ red isn't hooked to anything, that's labeled as accessory 2 on some and Ignition 2 on others.
Current info I have taken from an audiovox website. I tested with dmm to verify.
White - Battery
BLACK / YELLOW - Ignition 1
BLACK/ Red - Ignition 2
WHITE/ Red - Accessory 1
BLACK/ White - Starter 1

What did you do for a tach wire?

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Good point but I don't think you can enter manual reservation mode without the tach being recognised. This is either a wiring or by-pass problem. Have we tried to get an R/S with the key in the ignition?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

The tach wire was just a thought...Does the viper actually recognize the tach signal if the vehicle was started with the key or key take over has been performed though? Considering the vehicle is already running...just throwing it out there.



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OP seems to be doing the right things apart from the clutch switch but hey, never seen a clutch switch in Europe! (Maybe locally built small Toyotas).
He's left out ACC 2 but I don't think that's relevant to actually starting.
If it can be tried with the key in the ignition we'll eliminate poor wiring and that leaves us with the by-pass. But there again, not enough in Europe, so I chip -em! But it doesn't matter because the alarms we install have multi-cuts.
Unfortunately as wit5h most Civic owners the OP doesn't appear to be listening, I told him how to kill the useless factory alarm, which was his original reason for posting, a week ago and no acknowledgement.
We tell him one thing he does something else!

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I've tried to remote start with the key left in the ignition, it won't start. Same result, the gauges come on, fuel pump primes but no cranking.

I've disconnected the factory alarm system. Since the unit in my Si does not have a disarm/arm wire this was the only option available to me.

With regard to the clutch switch and the ignition wire in the fuse box. This wire comes directly from the top left harness and goes directly into the steering column, ignition barrel. I've tapped into this. I would still believe I need a clutch bypass for this to work, which is why I used the purple 200ma (-) output. The second switch is for the Cruise control, I've tested this and the switch I have is the correct clutch switch.

The PKALL unit I have is connected D2D, I've checked to make sure the jumpers on my 5902 are set correctly for an external D2D module. I have the Blue/white wire from the PKALL connected directly to the blue/white wire on the 18 pin 5902 harness. I'm wondering now if I have to use w2w now instead, but I'm not certain seeing how the remote start won't work with the key in the ignition either.

Howie I'm not sure if this will help or not, but my car is the equivelant of the 2005 UKDM Ep3 Civic Type-R. And I appologize, I did not mention that I had to disconnect the alarm from under the dash because mine did not have an arm/disarm wire.

Yes don't worry it's just that I find it easier with the UK version to simply remove that unit and wire your new alarm part (not the RS) into the leads on that plug.
I thought they would be the same.
OK It doesn't start with the key in.
Not the by-pass then.
With the key in ignition position, making sure you're out of gear (in neutral) can you start the car by joining a lead to the white and flashing it to the unit's H1 violet?


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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Yes I can start the car by joining the H1 violet wire to the white wire.

Now I'm scratching my head because your wiring is OK.
One more thing, leave a DMM, red probe on that violet wire, black probe to ground and try for the RS. Let's see if it's putting out 12v+ to start the vehicle.
I know there were some problems with that (internal) relay on the 5901 model.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Well I feel like a damn fool. There isn't any voltage coming out of the purple wire during the remote start sequence. I get 12v when I manually start the car at that purple wire, but not with the remote start trying to activate it.

OK, now we're getting somewhere, check H1 to make sure you're getting 12v+ (actually it's about 12.3-12.6) at the RED / white and red.
Would you humour me and connect up the RED / black as well please.
If you get that voltage, faulty unit!

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Howie, my sincerest thanks for your insight on this! It sounds silly but after you mentioned the RED / black wire on the h3 harness, I checked to see that it was already hooked up. Lesson learned, always check the fuses!!! Sure enough it was blown! I replaced it and viola, she started right up. I'm wondering now what I had hooked up backwards, if it was anything to do with the accessory wire or if someone just "borrowed" the fuse and swapped it with a broken one and it was a store return. In any case, I genuinely appreciate all your help. Now where do I send the pack of Boddingtons?

Nope I don't drink but if Kent deluxe cigarettes are still sold in the US......
Joking but seriously it's because you listened to what I was saying rather than questioned it. I may never have seen the 59xx in Europe but I think I'm still the best diagnostic guy around.
Humility not one of my better points.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.