2002 pathfinder remote starter

I just purchased a Avital 4113 remote starter unit for my 2002 Nissan Pathfinder. I found the wiring diagram on my vehicle on this website which makes life much easier thankyou! I am hoping to install this weekend. My pathfinder has two starter wires & my remote starter only has one. What is the preferred method of installation.

1. Take single wire and add 2 diodes to isolate the two starter wires....or

2. Take single wire and wire direct to one starter wire, and one to relay to activate second starter wire... or

3. Take single wire and wire to two relays

Pathfinder is an automatic, and I am also wondering if anyone knows where I would hook up the park/neutral safety or if it is even necessary.

Thank you.

There are several ways to do it. 

Option 1 will work if the vehicles actual current draw for both starter wires does
not exceed the Avital's rated starter wire current output and the diodes have a
proper current rating for their starter wire.

Option 2 will work if wired correctly. 

Option 3 uses more parts and is more costly but is the method actually illustrated
in a DEI install guide for another one of their remote starter units.  Here is a
link :  https://www.readyremote.com/pdf/manuals/24921.pdf  See Page 12 for the
diagram.

The easiest way uses one relay & fuse and provides proper isolation.  Just use the
Avitals' PURPLE (-) STARTER OUTPUT wire from the 4-pin satellite harness to control
an extra 30/40 Amp SPDT relay.  Wire as follows :
Relay Pin 85 to Avital PURPLE (-) STARTER OUTPUT
Relay Pin 86 and 87 to +12V thru 20 Amp fuse
Relay Pin 30 to Pathfinder Starter 2 wire
Relay Pin 87A Not Used - Insulate

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Soldering is fun!

I would go with option 2 wired as Kreg shows in the diagram for one reason. Why would some manufacturers "waste" money on two ignition or starter leads when one might do? On ignition and ACC it's for current load splitting, may be the same for the starter.
As for a neutral safety, as a fail safe you could wire the BLACK/ white NSS wire to the reverse light feed going to 12v+ on ignition, colour possibly green verify at the rear light, pick up in kick well floor loom of feeds at base of gear shift selector.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Thanks for the info I went with option two.

Have been battling this for a couple days now. Got everything hooked up and it turns over fine but it doesn't start. Bypass unit was not kicking in. Did some trouble shooting and I noticed the BLUE STATUS wire from the Avital 4113 is NOT giving me a negative when initiating the starter. So I disconnected the BLUE (-) STATUS wire from the PKALL unit is touched ground and Voila the car started.  I then hooked it up to H2/5 BLUE/WHITE second status wire, double checked the programming (section 8 option 1) but it didn't work either. No Negative on that wire either.

What are the chances that BOTH status wires aren't working on my AVITAL unit and I have a lemon? Or am I missing something?

Check your voltages with a DMM, set to 20VDC and black probe to your Avital's black ground (earth/0v) wire. Set your red probe to any of the inputs, should be at least 12.3v if not, then faulty unit, probably failed driver trannie.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Disregard last part, should have read if not, redo that ground connection, if you have 12.3v or more, then faulty unit.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Thanks again for your help. I am getting +12.8 on the test. As a "rookie" installer it makes it frustrating working on defective equipment.

I went over all my wiring again and everything tested out OK except the satellite harness on the Avital unit must be bad. The accessory, ignition and status output are all showing .6V with my DMM. Should be showing (-) when running. The cranking wire is showing +12.8 regardless if the starter is running or not. It also should be showing (-). Something really haywire.

it may be the way you wired your 2nd Start relay???  something feeding back perhaps?

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Kevin Gerry
Certified Electronics Technician
MECP First Class Installer

Owner/Installer
Classic Car Audio
since 1979

Thank kgerry. I will double check and post how I wired it shortly.

Double checked the relay setup - 5 prong relay
#86 - connected to Starter wire from Avital
#85 - Ground
#30 - 12V fused direct from battery
#87 - connected to Second starter wire.

I didn't see anything wrong with this so I gave up on the Avital unit and went with a Canadian Tire Prostart two way starter. Everything works but I think the Avital ruined the PKALL unit that was connected via DND.

I do not have DND on my new one so I wired the +12/ground from the PKALL unit direct. The PKALL is activating now when the remote starter is activated, as I am getting (-) on the ground when running wire. I have reprogrammed the PKALL unit a few time (maybe to many) and every-time I get the correct "10 flashes" on the LED to indicate it is correctly programmed. However when I go to remote start the PKALL led turns on (to show it is working) and motor turns over but doesn't start. If I put a key in the ignition (off position) it will start so it must be the bypass module.

Looking on this forum I am not the first one with this problem?