2006 jeep grand cherokee rs
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=129109
Printed Date: May 23, 2024 at 8:44 AM
Topic: 2006 jeep grand cherokee rs
Posted By: ffyter
Subject: 2006 jeep grand cherokee rs
Date Posted: November 05, 2011 at 10:56 PM
Hey folks, I need some help. I am installing a remote start in a 2006 Jeep Grand Cherokee. I am using a DB-ALL bypass from directed and a 1272 ultra starter. I am confused by the bypass instructions as I will be doing everything via wire to wire. Directions show that I have to connect starter and ignition to the bypass from the rs unit. is this all the ignition, starter, and accessory wires that I have to connect (2) or do I have to connect them to the vehicle as well?
Replies:
Posted By: dasbogie
Date Posted: November 05, 2011 at 11:21 PM
If you take the time to do a nice bench prep, you can tie your dball wires(start and ignition) into the heavy gauge on the remote start, then just run those to the vehicles ignition switch. You will also have to catch the mux wire at the igniton switch. You will also catch the can wires at the immobilizer plug which is adjacent to the ignition switch. Those wires are a bit of a pain to get at but take your time and it will go alright. I highly recommend soldering them so you never have to go back in there for a bad connection/splice.
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Posted By: ffyter
Date Posted: November 06, 2011 at 8:05 AM
Your clarification makes perfect sense. Thank you! This should be a fairly quick install. One other question. Others on the forum have either not done the parking light hook up or have tied into the hazards for this vehicle. Any ideas about this?
Posted By: ffyter
Date Posted: November 06, 2011 at 8:17 AM
Forgot to ask if I should get power directly from battery or grab the 20 amp wire at the ignition and swap out the fuses in the power leads from the rs for 20 amp ones? What type of amperage does a rs draw anyway?
Posted By: dasbogie
Date Posted: November 06, 2011 at 4:27 PM
Directechs canada lists RED / green in the top plug at the fuse box for juice. I've used it before without incident.
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Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: November 06, 2011 at 5:02 PM
Here is a bit of info from copied from another post concerning the Jeep Grand Cherokee Parking Lights :
Jeep Parking Lights:
Straight negative at Pin 1 of the parking light relay at the IPM under the hood. To test the connection, remove the relay and test for a ground signal in the relay socket of the IPM when turning on the parking lights. Solder a thin gauge wire to directly to the pin of the relay and you are good to go. You cannot use Positive lights because the relay rests at ground. There is no negative wire in the car because the lights are turned on from the switch via data. We've been doing the "relay" trick since the '99 jeep cherokee came out.
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Posted By: samuraibuddha
Date Posted: June 30, 2012 at 12:10 PM
I am doing an alarm/remote start system, viper 5901, in 2006 Jeep Grand, dball interface. everything works except for the remote start... have T harness for dball, PURPLE / brown wire connected to key side of mux wire, relays with 560ohm and 180ohm resistors connected to carside of mux wire (per Directed Document 1084, operated from the negative Accessory and Start wires off the 5-pin "remote start auxiliary" harness of 5901), the start and ignition wires from H3 harness (remote start heavy gauge on 5901) are connected to the corresponding wires on ignition harness (pink/lt.green and pink/orange), and all three Red wires on H3 are connected to 12+... valet switch plugged into 5901 not dball, grounded hood-pin switch and grounded neutral safety switch...
when I plug in the dball (freshly flashed and reset), I get red light, insert key and turn to accessory, orange blinking light, turn key to on, green blinking light, but green blinking light does not go solid...
If anyone can see a problem with any of these connections or know something I missed, please help!!?!? It would be greatly appreciated :) Thanks!
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: June 30, 2012 at 12:38 PM
Those resisters on the NEG wires...they won't overcome the resistance, you might need relays.
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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: samuraibuddha
Date Posted: June 30, 2012 at 12:45 PM
I did use relays, like the pic shows... thanks for responding, amazed it was that fast!
Posted By: dasbogie
Date Posted: June 30, 2012 at 1:39 PM
If you are using dball, then all you need to follow is the dball guide. There are no relays/resistor required for mux wire because dball takes care of it.
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Posted By: dasbogie
Date Posted: June 30, 2012 at 1:41 PM
You also said you grounded hood pin which would cause a no remote start condition. Hood pin needs to see ground only to shutdown the remote start.
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Posted By: samuraibuddha
Date Posted: June 30, 2012 at 1:56 PM
I used bitwriter to change the hood pin condition to the other setting... forgot to mention that... also, so the 1084 diagram only applies to non-bypass module install?
Posted By: dasbogie
Date Posted: June 30, 2012 at 8:01 PM
to answer your question about the 1084 diagram, it applies when you use a bypass that doesn't cover the mux circuit. The dball does assuming you followed the diagram to a T. ------------- Advanced
Posted By: dasbogie
Date Posted: June 30, 2012 at 8:12 PM
To add to programming, when you turn the ignition to run and you get a green blink, do you then turn off ignition, remove key and press lock or unlock on the factory fob? Once you hit one of the keyless commands it usually will then go solid green. ------------- Advanced
Posted By: samuraibuddha
Date Posted: July 01, 2012 at 9:14 AM
actually yes, that is what I have to do to get it to stop blinking, but it doesn't stay solid green when I do that, it just goes off and then all of my other functions work... except the remote start.
Btw, last night I removed the relay setup I had, reattached the PURPLE / brown wire I had cut per 1084, reset the dball (not reflashed), and no go. Just to make sure I have the right heavy gauge wires connected... I have the H3/1-pink to pink/lt green @ ign hrn; and H3/4-violet to pink/orange @ ign hrn, and that is all, aside from the 12v to all fused inputs on H3 harness. And this is the dball diagram I have been using:
Posted By: dasbogie
Date Posted: July 01, 2012 at 9:39 AM
whenever you send the command to remote start, does the viper or vehicle respond at all? Does it flash the vehicle parking lights 7 times? Does the ignition turn on? Does it try to crank? Do you get any lights on the dball?
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Posted By: samuraibuddha
Date Posted: July 01, 2012 at 11:42 AM
well, I must have just screwed something up royally, because now I can't even start the car... it turns over and runs for like 5 secs and then dies... If I can get it back to just working I am gonna forget the damn remote start... it won't lock now either, even from the door... it will unlock but not lock... I think I am gonna have to pull the whole thing and start from scratch again...
Posted By: samuraibuddha
Date Posted: July 01, 2012 at 1:11 PM
So, i pulled the battery for a bit, disconnected both the 5901 and the dball, plugged the battery back in, and the the doors lock now from the door switch... so that's good... but the car still shuts off after 5 secs, does this possibly have to do with a starter kill on the OEM alarm?
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: July 01, 2012 at 1:15 PM
More likely tach not learnt.
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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: samuraibuddha
Date Posted: July 01, 2012 at 1:34 PM
oh no the remote start is not even in the picture anymore, this is just with the key!
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: July 01, 2012 at 1:36 PM
Fuel pump or factory immobiliser.
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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: samuraibuddha
Date Posted: July 01, 2012 at 1:38 PM
factory immobilizer is what my gut is saying, something about if the oem alarm is going off and the battery is disconnected it won't restart?
Posted By: samuraibuddha
Date Posted: July 01, 2012 at 1:39 PM
Is there a way to reset it?
Posted By: dasbogie
Date Posted: July 01, 2012 at 1:57 PM
if the factory immobilizer is keeping the car from starting usually the red theft deterrent light stays solid when you start the car. I know in some cars you can turn the key to ignition and leave it sit awhile.
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Posted By: samuraibuddha
Date Posted: July 02, 2012 at 9:37 AM
So, I read somewhere that to reset the computer you pull the ground terminal on the battery and let the car dissipate any charge over 24 hours. So I pulled it last night and am waiting till after work to try again.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: July 02, 2012 at 10:07 AM
Actually, 20 minutes.
And it cured a factory immobiliser problem for me on a Lexus LS once.
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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: samuraibuddha
Date Posted: July 02, 2012 at 10:19 AM
Well, I'm at work now, and it is a decent walk back home... but I will be testing it tonight, just scared doodieless that I damaged my car computer... and I am through trying to get the remote start to work, wish I would have listened to the echo throughout every forum I read "don't try this yourself, take it to an installer and spend the money"
btw, thanks dasbogie and howie II for all of the assistance!
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