nissan 300zx central locking unit

Hi

I am after some assistance in installing an aftermarket Door Locking unit.

Hopefully all the details/story leading up to where I am now will be on this link.

There are clear photo's of wiring diagrams also posted by myself there.

I am at the stage where I have got the unit powered up, indicators flash when the fob is pressed, the wires are giving out a pulse, but even after connecting these directly to where logic would dictate for me to do so, nothing happens as far as actuating the locking mechanisms.
I have looked through the forums but can find nothing specific to this problem :(

Any help/time taken to look on the 300ZX link would be appreciated!300zx Forum

The car in question is a UK spec Nissan 300zx TT Manual, 1992. I have no details for the make of the unit I'm fitting but the circuit diagram available via the link reveals all.

It's a 1 wire system, what make of KE system and what are the lock wiring colours of the KE system. The car's colour is probably RED / yellow.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

No I was wrong, you will need to add an actuator in the driver's door for that vintage, any way I can't access that forum.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Hi, there is already an actuator in the drivers door, it is operated by a rod pushing the actuator down, this presumably creates a pulse which actuates the passenger door.

Here's the pictures...

So what we have from the drivers door actuator is four wires...a constant live, a constant negative, two pulse wires which reverse their polarity when the door key is turned.
I have configured the R/C/L unit to a reverse polarity as the third option indicates on my 3rd picture.

Many thanks for the help so far, I think I was getting poor info from the person trying to help me on the ZX forum...

Open the loom going to that blue unit, it's an aftermarket actuator, there will be either 2 wires or 5 you want the blue and red wires.
Disconnect them in the car and rewire as your right hand diagram called incorrectly pos and neg trigger.
The wires in that diagram with arrows go to ground, the 2 marked + go to a 12v+ constant fused at 10 amps.
Alternatively all 5 wires on that actuator might go back to a blue relay, in that case wire as negative trigger, left hand diagram and connect the lock and unlock triggers to the brown and violet wires at that relay.
If it works the wrong way round, just turn your wires round!

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Hi Howie

The actuator unit has four wires, these can be seen on my 2nd pic down. The connector has the connections listed in my previous post.There are Blue, Green, Black and a Red wire.
Does what you said in your first paragraph of your last post stand?
I already have the wiring from the locking unit connected as you have described, so in theory connecting up to the blue and the red wires should do the trick!

I'll let you know how it goes once I've tried it out tomorrow :)

That's an aftermarket actuator, MES brand. ALL aftermarket actuators have either 2 or 5 wires.You can see how the door skin has been cut and worked to accommodate it. NO Japanese OEM actuator looks like that.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Behind that actuator is the OEM switch which activates the OEM relay locking and unlocking the passenger door.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Ok, so what is the next move then? When you say the relay is behind the actuator, do you mean towards the latching mechanism of the door?.

I thought it sounded a little too straight forward lol

I never said the relay is behind the actuator read my last post again, also reread my third post the answer is still the same.
With the door panel and under dash and driver kick panels out I could do this job in an hour and I'm 65 with arthritic knees.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

You're quite right - my apologies! I'm just trying to ensure what I do is correct, I really don't want to introduce unnecessary additional problems, so I'm checking it all out fully first.

You've reassured me that I'm able to do this job although it is very tricky trying to access the fusebox etc with the car being so low :s

Thank you very much for all your help, I will post a follow up.

Surf the web for MES and Spal locking systems, also Armour auto, they might print installation diagrams and you might get a look at the components so you know what to look for.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.