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remote starter in 1998 maxima

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=129252
Printed Date: May 10, 2025 at 3:58 PM


Topic: remote starter in 1998 maxima

Posted By: jdtipper
Subject: remote starter in 1998 maxima
Date Posted: November 16, 2011 at 5:51 PM

Well Im about at my wits end, and I need some input.

A Viper 4204 remote starter (with the Responder LE remote) goes in a manual Maxima. Ive hooked up everything but doors and hood pin. I did BOTH Ignition wires and figured I would try it out before buttoning things up.

So with the car running, I set it into MTS mode and it worked fine. Car ran with ignition shut off, open door, closed door, pressed lock button on remote...car shut off. Perfect.

But when I try to use the remote to start the car, it activates the ignition, but does NOT try to crank the engine. It does this cycle 3 times, and the same result. Now I know what your thinking, theres no clutch bypass....true, but Im still in the car holding the clutch pedal down. Now I thought it had to do with the factory alarm system.... but the doors were never locked. The RS system just thinks its locked.

im lost and dont know what to try next.

Any thoughts?




Replies:

Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: November 16, 2011 at 6:56 PM
MTS Mode requires Tach Mode ( for most Viper units ).  Did you program it for Tach Mode, connect a Tach wire to a good tach source and do a Tach Learn?

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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: jdtipper
Date Posted: November 16, 2011 at 7:23 PM

I did attach the tach wire directly to where it attaches to the cluster instead of the ECU.

Also went through the menu and changed it to Tach learning instead of the Virtual Learning used in autos.





Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: November 16, 2011 at 7:38 PM

Sounds like a Tach issue.  Don't think they started using a transponder until very late 1999. 

Did you verify the tach signal with a DMM?  Did the Tach Learn work OK?

What does Shutdown Diagnostics show?

Did you connect / power both Starter wires?  Does the Viper output +12V to the Starter Outputs during the remote start attempt? 

Perhaps if you listed your Viper to Maxima connections we might see something there.



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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: jdtipper
Date Posted: November 16, 2011 at 9:48 PM

I started thinking about the two starter/ignition wires.

From one of my readings on some random site, it noted that they are 2 IGNITION wires, so I wired into the Viper

  • Blk/Red  into IG 1......                                                                                                                Pink
  • and I believe  RED / Blue into IG 2                                                                                           Pink/White
  • Wht/Pur as Constant 12V  .....                                                                                                Red
  • Blu/Wht as Accessory......                                                                                                       Orange
  • Also added RED / Wh,Red,RED / Blk from the Viper unit to a constant 12V for IG 1&2,ACC, and starter relays in unit.

Im going to veify everything tomorrow when I can get out of the cold, Ill make sure that the tach wire is correct as well as the 2 starter wires joined as one

Thanks for the input.





Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: November 17, 2011 at 5:15 AM

Can't find an install guide for the Viper 4204, but you should keep the two Starter wires
seperate / isolated.  The Viper should have an output called (-) 200mA Starter Output,
usually a thin  Violet wire.  Use that wire to control an extra 30/40A SPDT relay to
power the Starter2 ignition wire. 

Wire extra relay as follows :
Relay Pin 86 and 87 to +12V constant thru 20 Amp fuse
Relay Pin 85 to Viper (-) Starter Output
Relay Pin 30 to Maxima Starter2 wire @ ignition switch harness
Relay Pin 87A not used - insulate

There appears to be some differences between major wiring guides.  Use a DMM to
test the ignition wires to be sure.

DEI info  ( Bulldog is basically the same )
12volts         wht/red - wht/pur   +       ignition harness
Starter          blk/yel - blk/wht   +          ignition harness  
Starter2        grn/blk - RED / blu   +         ignition harness  
Ignition         blk/wht - blk/red   +         ignition harness  
Accessory    RED / yel - red       +            ignition harness  
Accessory2  blue - wht/blu      +         ignition harness
***  The ignition harness wires change color at a plug. The above listed
       colors show both sides of the plug.

Tachometer  WHITE/ green         ac     ECM
***  The ECM is located in the front of the center console on the transmission
       hump. The wiring is easily reached by removing the small black panel just
       to the front of the center console on the passenger side. the wire is in the
       middle row, 7th one in from the left.

Audiovox info ( Omega is the same )
 Battery             WHITE/ RED  (+)           IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS  
 Ignition 1        BLACK/ WHITE  (+)        IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS  
 Ignition 2        RED / YELLOW  (+)         IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS  
 Accessory 1   BLUE  (+)                        IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS  
 Starter 1          BLACK / YELLOW  (+)    IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS  
 Starter 2          RED / BLUE  (+)              IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS



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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: jdtipper
Date Posted: November 17, 2011 at 4:20 PM
Now Im really going to lose my cool.

I was right, I did use the second starter wire as an ignition wire, so temporarily I just attached it to the other starter wire.
Wired up a relay for the clutch and everything worked great.
Car started on its own, beautiful.

So I finished all my soldering,heat shrink and tucked the unit up and away, put the panels back on and went to try it one more time and....NOTHING!!!

Door lock/unlock works, double pulse for the unlock.
But I cannot for the life of me get it back into MTS mode.

The sequence is brake on/park brake on/brake off/button on remote/key off/ remote lock.

But it wont enter this at all. The shutdown/startup diagnostics say its (A) + Brake shutdown and (B) transmitter shutdown

I verified the brake wire with my DMM,and it shows 12V only when the brake is pressed.
Verified my park brake, and it is grounded when applied, like its supposed to

I checked every wire utilized and everything is just like it was when it worked.

I need a toke man :)




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: November 17, 2011 at 4:33 PM

Time to triple check everything.  Here is what DEI has listed in the install guide :

• Remote start MTS mode failure
   The remote emits a failure notification when trying to enable the manual transmission
   mode or the vehicle fails to stay remote started when the key is turned off.
Possible causes are:
   • Hood Open (gray wire).
   • Foot Brake active (brown wire).
   • No Parking Brake input, BLACK/ white neutral safety wire not showing ground with parking brake set.
   • Tachometer is not hooked up or programmed.
   • The unit has not been programmed for tachometer mode
   • Toggle switch not installed or not in the ON position.



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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: jdtipper
Date Posted: November 17, 2011 at 5:18 PM
I think im onto check-over number 8.

I unplugged everything from the unit, plugged everything back in. Re-learned the tach sensor.
Went through the menu and changed from Virtual Tach to Tach.
Park brake is grounded,
Foot brake is grounded unless pressed, then it shows 13.4V
Toggle switch is ON,
Hood pin is not hooked up so its not grounded, so it sees the hood as closed.

Went through the MTS sequence, and nothing happens with the unit, no internal relays click over and no park light flash.
Remote signals back Error, but system never flashes lights as to why.

Shut car off, Go through RS S/S Diagnostics.
Now it says ... MTS mode not enabled & + Brake shutdown & Transmitter shutdown.

Checked to make sure it was NOT in Valet mode, Re-Paired the remote to the system.

You don`t know of a way to restore the brain to factory default? Ive looked everywhere for a way, but nothing for a total reset.

By the way, I really appreciate your help with all this. Being the `electronic guy`out of everyone I know, I have no one else to turn to when Im stumped, So again, Thanks




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: November 17, 2011 at 6:52 PM

A BitWriter would be nice right about now ( to verify Tach Mode, etc ).   Perhaps a Viper person can add some insight.  I believe unplugging all the connectors for a 20 minute time period might reset the brain. 



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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: jdtipper
Date Posted: November 17, 2011 at 8:12 PM
Its okay, unfortunately what I thought it to be turned out to be right.
I somehow fried the brain.
I wasn't sure what that spark was when I was shoving it, ever so gently, into place. Now I know.

Oh well, went to the store, spent another $268 for a new one, carefully switched packaging, now time to return it in a few days.
Those pesky Christmas presents, you never can get the right one.

Many thanks again.




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: November 17, 2011 at 9:13 PM

                                             posted_image



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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: jdtipper
Date Posted: November 17, 2011 at 11:44 PM
Its okay... one of the guys that works there owes me a favour and once its returned, he can make sure it goes back to the supplier as a defective unit. posted_image




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: November 18, 2011 at 4:49 AM

 

         posted_image    



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Soldering is fun!





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