clifford 590.2x
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=129267
Printed Date: July 12, 2025 at 12:58 PM
Topic: clifford 590.2x
Posted By: dranedc5
Subject: clifford 590.2x
Date Posted: November 17, 2011 at 5:02 PM
I just have a couple questions about the wiring for this alarm and the bypass module i got for my 2005 acura rsx type s.
H1/4 Parking Light Isolation Wire - Pin 87a of onboard relay
H1/11 Parking Light Output
I am just wondering which one i connect to my car parking lights and if it is a negative or positive output and if i can choose the polarity how do i set it up for negative output ( there is also a fused jumper internally thats labeled "Light flash polarity") what i think is if i take out that fuse then it will be a negative output and i connect H1/11 parking light output to my negative parking light wire in my car
also i bought xpress kit pkh34 for my acura
well i dont have time for this question right now so ill be back on later if someone can answer that first question for me thanks i advance
Replies:
Posted By: dranedc5
Date Posted: November 18, 2011 at 8:11 AM
okay so i figured out the parking light, there is a fuse when you pop open a little compartment on the alarm module and there is a negative and positive contact...
but now i have another 2 problems
first is the common door trigger, for my car wiring it says to use both driver and passenger wires and diode isolate each... what i did was connect a diode to each door trigger wires with the polarity mark going towards the alarm input and it is not working.. please any help would be appreciated
also i connect the lock and unlock wires to the power lock and power unlock wires on the car and it is not working... am i supposed to connect the alarm to the power lock and power unlock or am i supposed to hook the alarm up the the lock motor and unlock motor??
please someone have these answers for me i want to hurry up and get this done its getting colder by the day and i need the common door triggers to work so i can program manual transmission mode
thank you again
Posted By: dranedc5
Date Posted: November 18, 2011 at 9:59 AM
can anyone help??
Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: November 18, 2011 at 5:30 PM
Your 2005 RSX has (-) negative door triggers. Split the wire from the Clifford (-) Door Trigger Input to both vehicle door trigger wires & add an in-line 1N4004 diode with the bands towards the vehicle ( away from the Clifford ). Here is a link to a diagram : https://www.the12volt.com/diodes/diodes.asp Scroll down to the two diagrams. The correct one is on the left ( negative door triggers ).
You can also use 1N4001, 1N4007 or similar diodes. ------------- Soldering is fun!
Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: November 18, 2011 at 5:43 PM
Connect to the lock wires, not the motor wires. The Cliffords' Green (-) Lock wire should be directly connected to the vehicles WHITE/ Blue wire. The Cliffords' Blue (-) Unlock wire should be directly connected to the vehciles WHITE/ Green wire. As always, use a Digital Multi Meter to locate and verify all wires prior to connection.
The DEI wiring guide has this info :
Power Lock WHITE/ blue (-) driver kick, white 20 pin plug, pin 9 Power Unlock WHITE/ green (-) driver kick, white 20 pin plug, pin 10 ------------- Soldering is fun!
Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: November 18, 2011 at 5:47 PM
Here is a link to the DEI wiring info mentioned earlier : https://www.readyremote.com/main.asp?make=Acura&model=RSX
------------- Soldering is fun!
Posted By: dranedc5
Date Posted: November 19, 2011 at 9:46 AM
that is what i did for the lock and unlock and it is not working, i have to check to see if the connector came loose while neatening up all the wires and stuff but i doubt it... ill double check the wiring but if someone has an idea about the lock and unlock please share..
also the common door trigger, when i was at work i cut out the diodes just to see if it works and it sets off the alarm and everything but when i tried setting the remote start to manual transmission mode it was not working ( and i assume u need the door trigger because in the procedure you have to open the door)
i am going to go in the garage right now and try soldering in a couple diodes the other way around, i didnt know with a negative system you solder diodes the other way....hopefully it fixes it and allows me to set the remote start
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: November 19, 2011 at 10:19 AM
That's why we have a whole series of diode diagrams on this site, also just to tee you off the best place for door and trunk triggers on Hondas is to go to the rear of the instrument panel, look for the icons showing door open and trunk open, 1 wire to each, job done.
In fact you could even go to the dome light, no supervision required, it shuts down on vehicle lock after about 3 seconds, well inside DEI 10 seconds settle time for door triggers.
------------- Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: dranedc5
Date Posted: November 21, 2011 at 6:22 PM
Ok well i have everything all set and working as for all triggers i want siren lock/unlock and everything but the remote start....... its really wizing me off i am just having trouble getting it in to manual transmission mode i dont think ita any of the wiring u checked most of the wires but i am going to go through them again sometime ths week wen i have time...but wen i hit start button it says remote atart not available and the parking lights flash 7 times...in the manual that says remote start activated but not initialized...idk wat else it could be i tried the switch bpth ways....
Any suggestions please and thank you
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: November 21, 2011 at 6:33 PM
What's connected to where and have connected and programmed tach?
------------- Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: dranedc5
Date Posted: November 21, 2011 at 11:21 PM
oh well that could be my problem, i didnt know i had to have the tach wire connected.. i was gonna do that down the line, the last remote start i put it my car didnt need the tach wire hooked up...
ok well after i connect up the tach wire, is there anything else i need to do or set before the remote start could work???
Posted By: dsire
Date Posted: November 19, 2012 at 2:57 PM
I am new to this forum and have an issue I need help with. I am installing a Clifford 590.2x into an older (1986) Porsche. I am trying to hook up the parking lights to flash during arming, disarming and alarming. I don't have an relay with an 87a connection for the parking lights for the WHITE/ brown wire and I don't get 12v or ground out of my white wire that is supposed to go to the parking lights. How do I connect this?
Also, I am not going to use the auto start feature of this alarm but which wire do I connect to the ignition to sense that I have turned the key on?
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: November 19, 2012 at 5:26 PM
dsire
Don't hijack someone else's thread it's bad manners.
Also what model? Very relevant.
The first answer by the way is that the WHITE/ brown isn't required.
What have you connected to where?
Pink at H3/1 is both ignition input AND output as it says on the instructions which you obviously haven't read from your questions.
------------- Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: dsire
Date Posted: November 19, 2012 at 7:40 PM
I have a 1986 Porsche 911 Carerra Targa.
I did read the instructions and I did have H3/1 pink connected to the ignition. I initiated an alarm activation by bumping the car to test it. That part worked. I then applied 12v to H3/1 to reset the blinking indicator on the control center and couldn't get it to clear.
I wasn't trying to Hijack anyone elses thread. Just wasn't sure of the proper procedure.
Posted By: soundnsecurity
Date Posted: November 19, 2012 at 8:14 PM
the alarm might need to see an open door too in order to reset the blinking LED.
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Posted By: dsire
Date Posted: November 19, 2012 at 8:27 PM
Ok, now that kinda makes sense. It's a convertible so I didn't have to open the door. Thank you
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: November 20, 2012 at 6:58 AM
Easier to pick up lights etc. from the underhood fusebox, all labelled.
Control unit goes there and siren either behind headlight or in rear engine bay remove rear "seat" upright to access grommets in lower corners.
If central locking, the neg triggers are either in plugs adjacent to hood hinges or control unit under right hand seat (at least they are here).
------------- Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: dsire
Date Posted: November 20, 2012 at 9:52 AM
I have the central locking hooked up and that work great. I have the siren all hooked up an in a good location (facing downward in the front air damn). My problem is that the parking light output wire white H1/11 gives me no +12v or ground. I get nothing at all from that wire during arming or disarming. What am I missing?
Posted By: soundnsecurity
Date Posted: November 20, 2012 at 9:59 AM
is there a parking light input wire that needs to be hooked to something or there is a missing fuse or jumper. DEI usually has a separate fuse for the parking light output and there is a jumper that is used to select the polarity. if either the fuse or the jumper is missing then there will be no output. newer DEI alarms use the fuse as the jumper so check and make sure it is there and that the fuse is not blown.
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Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: November 20, 2012 at 10:03 AM
And, by the time the Viper gets from Taiwan to the US then to Romania and then to the UK, the fuse has usually slipped out, worth a look.
Also, is your H1/1 connected to a constant power source?
------------- Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: dsire
Date Posted: November 20, 2012 at 1:09 PM
That worked. There was no fuse there.
Thanks a bunch for your help!
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: November 20, 2012 at 3:15 PM
Great! Thanks for posting.
Next time, PLEASE make, model and year and START a thread.  ------------- Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
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