viper 5101 in 2006 pontiac g6
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=129348
Printed Date: June 07, 2024 at 1:56 PM
Topic: viper 5101 in 2006 pontiac g6
Posted By: tealtuna
Subject: viper 5101 in 2006 pontiac g6
Date Posted: November 23, 2011 at 11:49 AM
I have unfortunately decided to do my first remote start/keyless install on my girlfriend's 2006 Pontiac G6 Sedan (base base base model).
I am a mechanical engineer who thinks he can get into these types of projects without trouble but I am finding this car much more difficult than the older cars I have worked on...but enough about me.
The car had a Viper keyless entry installed in it previously, which I thought great, I'll get a remote start/keyless to replace the old unit (which had stopped working reliably).. This did help me tap into a number of wires such as the trunk, grounds, +12V, door lock easily since I just cut the wires and attached the new harness. The problems I am having are both:
1) The keyless entry only locks the doors, does not unlock. I kept the previously installed 1.5kOhm resistor in line and it is still not working. However, after I snipped the wires and re-installed the resistor (wrapped in electrical tape), it is possible they have included a diode and I may have it facing the wrong direction... When I lock/unlock I measured a (+) signal and a (-) signal... however I need a (-) signal for both lock and unlock... Is there another method here that I am missing?
2) The remote start. I was under the impression that her car had no immobilizer or anti-theft device since her car was completely stripped stock. However, I did get the Viper remote start to try and start the car (i hear the relays, parking lights come on/off, etc) but no cranking. As I read more, I believe this car DOES have the immobilizer and I should have figured that out a long time ago... So, to fix this issue I know there are a number of bypass options out there and I am a complete NOOB to each and every one. Since I have the doors and trunk working (after I fix Q1, above).. I don't see the need to buy an expensive module that will interface with these options when they are already hooked up.
I found the Bulldog 791 Immobilizer Bypass and it looks like that can be used to bypass this and be wired directly to the Viper system...
At the moment I have the Viper IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT (Pink) wired to the Pink wire at the tumbler harness and (+)FUSED (30A) ACCESSORY/STARTER INPUT wired to the Brown Accessory wire in the harness. (Should the Orange ACCESSORY OUTPUT viper harness wire be attached here as well - I thought this went to the climate control system, which I cannot find out where to hook this to so the heaters turn on, etc.)
This post is long enough as it is I will wait patiently for questions and grief about me diving into this. I am obviously trying to save money and I'm sure I could buy an expensive module or pay for an install but I would rather learn this myself. Thanks in advance.
-Ryan
Replies:
Posted By: flobee4
Date Posted: November 23, 2011 at 1:35 PM
for the door locks you need a diode on both the lock and unlock wire. The diodes need to be installed with the strip towards the 5101. The 1.5K resistor needs to be on the unlock wire.
I used to use the xpresskit PKG7 bypass which take car of both immobilizer and the special white wire at the ignition harness.
As for the 791 Unit you have, you have to put one of her keys inside the box and get that ring(lasso) around the key cylinder. You also need to hook up both the ignition & accessory wires from the 5101 to the car. You don't need to interface with the white wire at the ignition harness at all. On the G6 and the 5101 while using the 791 bypass, you won't use the ignition 2 and starter wires on the 5101 at all.
Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: November 23, 2011 at 1:37 PM
1.) Door Locks - While it has been done with resistor & diodes, the standard method includes
relays ( on R/S units without built-in lock relays ). Here is a link to a diagram : https://www.bulldogsecurity.com/diagrams/extrainfo/diagrams/17044_G6_G6%20%201%20WIRE%20JBS%20UNITS.pdf
The top diagram would be correct for your Viper system.
2.) While the bypass costs under $50, you can get a bypass module that will take care of the PK3,
doors, trunk, factory alarm and ignition MUX. Saves time & adds reliability and security. Check
out the DEI DLPK at : https://www.xpresskit.com/product.aspx?productid=122 The Bulldog 791 will
work, but you will lose a working key under the dash.
3.) Your wiring on the Vipers H3 harness should look like this.
H3/1 PINK IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT Pink @ Ignition Harness
H3/2 RED / WHITE (+) FUSED (30A)FLEX RELAY 87 Not Used
H3/3 ORANGE ACCESSORY OUTPUT Brown @ Ignition Harness
H3/4 VIOLET STARTER OUTPUT Not Used
H3/5 RED (+) FUSED (30A) IGNITION 1 INPUT Battery
H3/6 PINK/WHITE IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY OUTPUT 30 Not Used
H3/7 PINK/BLACK FLEX RELAY INPUT 87A FLEX RELAY Not Used
H3/8 RED / BLACK (+) FUSED (30A) ACCESSORY/STARTER INPUT Battery
Battery +12v found at RED / black (50A) + BCM, red 41 pin plug (C3), pin D1 ------------- Soldering is fun!
Posted By: tealtuna
Date Posted: November 23, 2011 at 1:44 PM
Great input - It's starting to make a lot more sense to me. The weather is looking good here and finally a long weekend so I am going to at least give the door locks a whirl later today or over the weekend. That DLPK was the other unit I was looking at. I don't have the Bulldog unit, I was just looking at it like it would solve my problem. I am going to doublecheck that it has a transponder or not.
Thanks a bunch. More questions to come I'm sure.
Posted By: flobee4
Date Posted: November 23, 2011 at 1:45 PM
I just reread your last paragraph. the heavy wires need to be hooked up as follows:
H3/1 PINK to Pink at ignition Harness
H3/2 RED / WHITE to Constant 12V = RED / Black at BCM
H3/3 ORANGE to Brown at ignition harness
H3/4 VIOLET = No connection(tape up)
H3/5 RED to Constant 12V = RED / Black at BCM
H3/6 PINK/WHITE = No Connection (Tape up)
H3/7 PINK/BLACK = No Connection (Tape up)
H3/8 RED / BLACK to Constant 12V = RED / Black at BCM
*EDIT* - Kreg beat me to it and I didn't even catch it. He's a faster typer then me - LOL
So all your Red colored wires get connected to the same RED / black at the BCM.
Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: November 23, 2011 at 2:16 PM
The factory keys should have a PK3 stamped on the blade if it has transponder immobilizer.
------------- Soldering is fun!
Posted By: tealtuna
Date Posted: November 23, 2011 at 8:24 PM
Flo - yes I see that now and I'm kinda face-palming myself but it's all good.
As for the key... It has the simple black pontiac logo and a + inside of a circle stamped into the steel portion. (+) No Pk3's...
I will complete the wiring and then give it a try without any bypass and hope this one came without it!
Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: November 23, 2011 at 9:10 PM
A "circle +" key is a PK3+ immobilizer system.  ------------- Soldering is fun!
Posted By: tealtuna
Date Posted: November 25, 2011 at 3:20 PM
flobee4 wrote:
for the door locks you need a diode on both the lock and unlock wire. The diodes need to be installed with the strip towards the 5101. The 1.5K resistor needs to be on the unlock wire....
That worked! Thank you very much. I was about to start fixing the remote start wiring then read about the PK3+ key... So looks like i'll have to wait until I get the module before I continue. The girl is happy to have her keyless entry working again - and with 5x the range than the last one!
Posted By: graywire
Date Posted: December 27, 2011 at 1:20 AM
Hello I need some input about this viper 5101 RS/KE:
I just installed one of this but the remote start section does not work, I installed door lock actuators and plugged them to pin 30 of a pair of relays like this https://www.the12volt.com/doorlocks/page3.asp#arp
keyless entry working good and programmed system for automatic trans.
Anyway, when I push remote start the parking ligts flash 8 times, then checking the remote starter diagnostics: "Neutral safety wire has no ground or neutral safety switch is in off position" I doublechecked (with a multimeter) there is ground at this wire and neutral safety switch is not installed as this car has automatic transmission, (I did the neutral safety check and it's all ok) checked fuses, hardwired tach, hood pin, brake switch...
I'm starting to think that the module is bad. If anyone thinks I missed anything, I'll appreciate it.
Thank you.
Al heavy wires connected except for pink black. ------------- Millenium Chevy Impala.
Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: December 27, 2011 at 1:29 AM
The Neutral Safety Switch must be plugged in and set to ON. The BLACK/ White Neutral Safety wire signal ( connected to Chassis Ground ) gets passed thru this switch.
-------------
Soldering is fun!
Posted By: graywire
Date Posted: January 08, 2012 at 2:28 AM
There is ground on the neutral safety switch input wire.
How about the "diesel wait to start" wire, does this wire needs to be connected in order for the remote start to activate in a gasoline engine or is it just for diesel engines? do I have to connect this wire?
Thank you. ------------- Millenium Chevy Impala.
Posted By: graywire
Date Posted: January 13, 2012 at 2:02 AM
plugged neutral safety switch, tried and now gave me the 7 light flashes!!!
After checking Remote start menu (#3) found out that it was in manual trans mode, I must have changed it while messing with programming of the unit. It is working now that the real cold is here in Illinois.
Thank you kreg357 ------------- Millenium Chevy Impala.
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