remote start 02 sonata

Hi everyone, I could use some professional help. I have the downtime so I figured I would install my remote start. I have done a few before, but never a 2 way. Last one I did had a LOT less wires. The car is a 02 hyundai sonata v6 with no chip in the key. The remote start/alarm is a avital 5303.
Please bear with me as I have a lot of questions and more to come.
First I was running the antenna and can't tuck the wire under the headliner, I even used a flat head and it won't go in. Maybe because the glue seeped through when the windshield was replaced recently, I don't know. So can I have it mounted at the bottom of the window and still get good range?
I'm installing all the 10g thick wires now. 3 of them have constant 12v ignition and I only have 1 RED / constant on my ignition harness. Is it safe to just bundle all 3 of these together?

Wiring for my car is here:
https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~3829
Remote start wiring is here: (and takes awhile to load)
https://www.directeddealers.com/manuals/IG/Avital/N5303_2008_07web_.pdf
I do not see a neutral safety switch anywhere. Anyone know where it's at or just ground it out? (car is auto btw)

If I don't use the hoodpin do I just ground that out as well or leave it disconnected?

How do I wire up the rear defroster to work?
[quote]blue (-) status output
orange (-) 200mA 2nd accessory output
Violet (-) 200mA starter output
Pink (-) 200mA 3rd ignition output[/quote]
I'm assuming I don't need any of these?

[quote]
blue (-) status output
ORANGE / black (-) 200mA anti-grind/ground when armed output
Violet (-) 200mA starter trigger
orange (-) 200mA accessory trigger
Pink (-) 200mA ignition trigger
Yellow (+) ignition input to remote start
Pink/White 200ma programmable ignition/accessory trigger [/quote]
I'm going to assume I don't need any of these either? I just need alarm/remote start/trunk pop. I think that's it. Nothing fancy.

[quote]Light GREEN/ black (-) factory alarm disarm
gray/black (-) wait to start input
GREEN / WHITE (-) factory alarm rearm
violet/black (-) 200mA channel 4 output
WHITE/ black (-) 200mA channel 5 output
Light blue (-) 2nd unlock output [/quote]
Car isn't a diesel so I don't need that. I do believe the factory alarm works off the factory remote so as long as I don't use that then I shouldn't need this I assume.

That's all for now, I'll have more questions when I finish soldering the big wires and wrap them up.

Really appreciate the help!

Can't edit, but does this make it easier to read.


Hi everyone, I could use some professional help. I have the downtime so I figured I would install my remote start. I have done a few before, but never a 2 way. Last one I did had a LOT less wires. The car is a 02 hyundai sonata v6 with no chip in the key. The remote start/alarm is a avital 5303.
Please bear with me as I have a lot of questions and more to come.
First I was running the antenna and can't tuck the wire under the headliner, I even used a flat head and it won't go in. Maybe because the glue seeped through when the windshield was replaced recently, I don't know. So can I have it mounted at the bottom of the window and still get good range?
I'm installing all the 10g thick wires now. 3 of them have constant 12v ignition and I only have 1 RED / constant on my ignition harness. Is it safe to just bundle all 3 of these together?

Wiring for my car is here:
https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~3829
Remote start wiring is here: (and takes awhile to load)
https://www.directeddealers.com/manuals/IG/Avital/N5303_2008_07web_.pdf
I do not see a neutral safety switch anywhere. Anyone know where it's at or just ground it out? (car is auto btw)

If I don't use the hoodpin do I just ground that out as well or leave it disconnected?

How do I wire up the rear defroster to work?

instructions wrote:

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blue (-) status output
orange (-) 200mA 2nd accessory output
Violet (-) 200mA starter output
Pink (-) 200mA 3rd ignition output

---

I'm assuming I don't need any of these?

another wire bundle wrote:

---

blue (-) status output
ORANGE / black (-) 200mA anti-grind/ground when armed output
Violet (-) 200mA starter trigger
orange (-) 200mA accessory trigger
Pink (-) 200mA ignition trigger
Yellow (+) ignition input to remote start
Pink/White 200ma programmable ignition/accessory trigger

---

I'm going to assume I don't need any of these either? I just need alarm/remote start/trunk pop. I think that's it. Nothing fancy.

more wires wrote:

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Light GREEN/ black (-) factory alarm disarm
gray/black (-) wait to start input
GREEN / WHITE (-) factory alarm rearm
violet/black (-) 200mA channel 4 output
WHITE/ black (-) 200mA channel 5 output
Light blue (-) 2nd unlock output

---

Car isn't a diesel so I don't need that. I do believe the factory alarm works off the factory remote so as long as I don't use that then I shouldn't need this I assume.

That's all for now, I'll have more questions when I finish soldering the big wires and wrap them up.

Really appreciate the help!

1.)  Neutral Safety - Verify the car can't be started in gear then connect
      NSS wire to Chassis Ground or E-Brake.

2.)  The Hood Pin Safety is important.  If the car has an alarm it might have
      a factory Hood Pin.
      Hood Pin      lt. blue  (-)       ETACM, 12 pin plug, pin 2
      If not, install the one supplied in the kit.

3.)  For a basic install most/all of those wires are not used.

4.)  Here is some info from DEI on the Factory Alarm :
      Triggering the Keysense wire at the same time as the Ignition and
      Accessory wires will disarm the factory alarm without unlocking the
      doors.

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Soldering is fun!

I'll just ground out the neutral safety switch then.
There was 2 wires (red) that had 12v so I used the 3 wires on the remote start to those 2 wires. All the heavy gauge wiring is done.
What is ETACM?
I understand what keysense does, I just don't see a wire for it on this instruction manual.

As long as those two Red wires are large enough to supply the required current, you will be OK. 

There usually isn't any specific R/S wire designated for the Keysense wire.  Most of the time it isn't necessary to connect it.  Most vehicles have a Keysense wire and it can be either (+) or (-) polarity.   You Sonata's is (+) so you could use an ( isolated ) Ignition (+) output.

Here is a link to the DEI wiring guide :  https://www.readyremote.com/main.asp?make=Hyundai&model=Sonata

The ETACM (Electronic Time and Alarm Control Module) is attached to the fusebox below the fuses.

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Soldering is fun!

kreg357 wrote:

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You Sonata's is (+) so you could use an ( isolated ) Ignition (+) output.

---

Can you look at the directions I have in the first link and just tell me which to use? That would help me out a ton.

Moving right along. Tach wire sucked to get to so did the brake wire, but I got them and they are all soldered up.
I can't figure out the defrost so I'm just going to skip it.
All I have left is the

wth'] wrote:

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green (-) lock (+) unlock
blue (-) unlock (+) lock

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That makes zero sense to me.

And then the wire harness that has the biggest amount of wires.

Here are some I don't understand

HELP' wrote:

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Orange (-) 500Ma ground when armed output
WHITE/ blue (-) activation input
RED / white (-) 200mA Aux trunk release output
blue (-) trunk trigger output

---

So do I use both for the trunk or just 1?

This bundle also has
door trigger input (+ and a -) so why is there a plug with 2 wires

wth'] wrote:

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green (-) lock (+) unlock
blue (-) unlock (+) lock

---

Do I use all of those for the door locks?

As for the Factory Alarm, if you don't use the factory FOB to lock the car ( and maybe don't lock the car by pressing the door lock button with the door open upon exit ) the alarm won't set. And you won't have to worry about it.  Short of that, you could use the LIGHT GREEN/ BLACK (-) FACTORY ALARM DISARM wire to a polarity conversion relay to develop / supply the (+) Keysense signal.  Here is a diagram : https://www.the12volt.com/relays/page1.asp#n2p
Note :  While Bulldog Security indicates that the Factory Alarm can be disabled with the Keysense signal, DEI says FOB only but also mentions that it can be disabled with a pulse to Keysense, Ignition and Accessories.

Did you verify that the car has a Factory Alarm?

The Avital door lock outputs are the "Flip-Flop" type.  The Green wire would be used as the lock output on a vehicle with a (-), Type B, door lock system like your Sonata.  The Blue wire would be used for the unlock wire.

The next wire needed is the RED / White Trunk Release wire.  Connect to :
 TRUNK RELEASE   GREEN (-)    @ 12-PIN PLUG, PIN 5, @ ETACM

The two Door Trigger Input wires are to accommodate various vehicles.  You connect only one wire to the vehicle depending on the vehicles' available polarity.  In your case its the (-) Door Trigger going to :
DOOR TRIGGER   YELLOW (-)    @ 12-PIN PLUG, PIN 9, FRONT OF FUSE BOX

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Soldering is fun!

OK I need some help. I wired up the door locks and everything else (minus the siren and trunk pop) I hooked up to the yellow wire in the back of the fuse box because there wasn't one in the front that matched then I cut it and figured I will deal with that later.
And it doesn't work. Like nothing works. I tried to reprogram the fob and nothing still.
The LED doesn't even go on at all. The led on the shock sensor worked. I have verified that I have good ground on the 12pin connector as well as a good 12v. The heavy gauge wiring also has 12 volts per my fluke.
So where do I start to troubleshoot?

Trunk, siren, horn, keysense are not wired in. I think that is it though, everything is wired, soldered and plugged into the unit. Double checked the led and valet switch are plugged in. Never hooked up the hood pin either just left it disconnected, neutral safety switch is grounded out.

Well I feel stupid. I forgot to plug in the antenna duh!
Few issues. The car keeps cranking and won't stop.
Also when I hit the lock button the remote it started to crank. wth?!

Lock and unlock were backwards so I switched those 2 wires around but the lock button still tries to start the car. And there is no delay the second I hit the button it starts to crank. I'm use to having to hold the button down for 2 seconds to try and get it to start. How do I fix these issues?
I think I wired into my fog lights instead of my parking lights. Oh well, fine by me. lol

How do I fix these issues? After that I'll make it look pretty and button it all up.

If I pull the fuse on the heavy gauge RED / white then the lock/unlock work no problem but the car won't attempt to start.
I'm even more confused now.

OK, here goes.  Info from DEI.  All connections should be verified with a DMM.

H1/1 RED / WHITE (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT                         Green(-)  ETACM, 12 pin plug, pin 5     
H1/2 RED (+) CONSTANT POWER INPUT                                                    Red @ Ignition Switch Harness
H1/3 BROWN (+) SIREN OUTPUT                                                                  Avital Siren +
H1/4 EMPTY NOT USED
H1/5 BLACK (-) CHASSIS GROUND INPUT                                                 Chassis Ground
H1/6 VIOLET (+) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT, ZONE 3                         
H1/7 BLUE (-) MULTIPLEXED INPUT, ZONE 4
H1/8 GREEN (-) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT, ZONE 3                                    Yellow(-)  front of fuse box, 12 Pin plug, pin 9
H1/9 BLACK/ WHITE (-) 200mA DOMELIGHT SUPERVISION OUTPUT
H1/10 WHITE/ BLUE (-) REMOTE START ACTIVATION INPUT
H1/11 WHITE (+)/(-) SELECTABLE LIGHT FLASH OUTPUT                      lt. blue(-)  headlight switch  ***5303 Jumper/Fuse set to (-)        

H1/12 ORANGE (-) 500mA ARMED OUTPUT

H2/1 LIGHT BLUE (-) SECOND UNLOCK OUTPUT
H2/2 WHITE/ BLACK (-) AUX 2 OUTPUT
H2/3 VIOLET/BLACK (-) AUX 1 OUTPUT
H2/4 GREEN / WHITE (-) FACTORY ALARM REARM
H2/5 GRAY/BLACK (-) WAIT-TO-START INPUT
H2/6 LIGHT GREEN/ BLACK (-) FACTORY ALARM DISARM                  to relay & then to (+)Keysense - if necessary

1 LIGHT BLUE (-) UNLOCK OUTPUT (+) LOCK                                      white(-)  rear of fuse box, 16 Pin plug, pin 10 
2 EMPTY NOT USED
3 GREEN (-) LOCK (+) UNLOCK OUTPUT                                                lt. blue(-)  rear of fuse box, 16 Pin plug, pin 11

1 PINK/WHITE (-) 200mA PROGRAMMABLE IGN2/ACC2 RELAY TURN ON
2 YELLOW (+) IGNITION INPUT TO ALARM                                             Pink(+)  ignition harness
3 PINK (-) 200mA IGNITION RELAY TURN ON
4 ORANGE (-) 200mA ACCESSORY RELAY TURN ON
5 PURPLE (-) 200mA STARTER RELAY TURN ON
6 ORANGE / BLACK (-) ANTIGRIND/GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT
7 BLUE (-) 200 mA STATUS OUTPUT

H/1 PURPLE STARTER OUTPUT TO STARTER (STARTER SIDE)              Yellow(+) CUT  ignition harness
H/2 GREEN STARTER INPUT FROM IGNITION (KEY SIDE)                          Yellow(+) CUT  ignition harness 
H/3 RED (+) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT                                                          Red @ Ignition Switch Harness
H/4 ORANGE OUTPUT TO ACCESSORY CIRCUIT                                          Orange(+)  ignition harness
H/5 PINK OUTPUT TO PRIMARY IGNITION CIRCUIT                                       Pink(+)  ignition harness
H/6 RED (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT                                               Red @ Ignition Switch Harness
H/7 PINK/WHITE OUTPUT TO SECOND IGNITION CIRCUIT                        Brown(+)  ignition harness   ***Menu3, Item8, 2Chirp  -  ACC2
H/8 RED / WHITE (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT                                 Red @ Ignition Switch Harness

H3/1 BLACK/ WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH INPUT                                     Chassis Ground
H3/2 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT WIRE                                                     White(ac)  instrument cluster or ECM   ***Menu3, Item1, Opt4
H3/3 BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT WIRE                                                 lt. blue(+)  brake pedal switch 
H3/4 GRAY (-) HOOD PINSWITCH INPUT, ZONE 1                                                    lt. blue(-)  ETACM, 12 pin plug, pin 2
H3/5 BLUE/WHITE (-)200mA 2ND STATUS/REAR DEFOG - Latched Pulsed 

See Avital Install Guide Page 32 for Tach Learn procedure.

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Soldering is fun!

That is how I have it. Except for the trunk and keysense. Is the tach learning for having it wired or virtual tach? And why if I unplug a consistent 12v power feed the locks work but the remote start won't.

KREG357 wrote:

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H/1 PURPLE STARTER OUTPUT TO STARTER (STARTER SIDE)              Yellow(+) CUT ignition harness
H/2 GREEN STARTER INPUT FROM IGNITION (KEY SIDE)           Yellow(+) CUT ignition harness
H/3 RED (+) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT             Red @ Ignition Switch Harness
H/4 ORANGE OUTPUT TO ACCESSORY CIRCUIT            Orange(+) ignition harness
H/5 PINK OUTPUT TO PRIMARY IGNITION CIRCUIT        Pink(+) ignition harness
H/6 RED (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT Red @ Ignition Switch Harness
H/7 PINK/WHITE OUTPUT TO SECOND IGNITION CIRCUIT        Brown(+) ignition harness   ***Menu3, Item8, 2Chirp - ACC2
H/8 RED / WHITE (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT   Red @ Ignition Switch Harness

---

I had the pink and orange backwards from what you had and after switching them around. Same issues. Keeps cranking and lock button starts the car. Now what?

I even moved all the 12+ wires to one red wire instead of across 2. No change either.

The Avital does a Virtual Tach learn automatically the first time it is remote started if Menu 3, Item 1, Opt 1 is set ( Virtual Tach ).  See page 31.

If you change the programming to Tach Mode (Menu 3, Item 1, Opt 4) you must connect to a tach source and do the Tach Learn procedure on Page 32.

Not sure why the issue with the H7 RED / White wire.  It supplies power to the H6 Pink/White wire that you are using for the Brown ACC2 wire ( programmed in Menu 3, Item 6, Opt 2 Sorry just noticed the Typo in my wiring response above).  If memory serves me, the Brown ACC2 wire is thinner and the circuit powers the radio and other non-important items.  You could disconnect those two wires & see what happens.

Think I would pull out the DMM and re-verify all vehicle wires and check all solder connections.

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Soldering is fun!

kreg357 wrote:

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The Avital does a Virtual Tach learn automatically the first time it is remote started if Menu 3, Item 1, Opt 1 is set ( Virtual Tach ).  See page 31.

If you change the programming to Tach Mode (Menu 3, Item 1, Opt 4) you must connect to a tach source and do the Tach Learn procedure on Page 32.

Not sure why the issue with the H7 RED / White wire.  It supplies power to the H6 Pink/White wire that you are using for the Brown ACC2 wire ( programmed in Menu 3, Item 6, Opt 2 Sorry just noticed the Typo in my wiring response above).  If memory serves me, the Brown ACC2 wire is thinner and the circuit powers the radio and other non-important items.  You could disconnect those two wires & see what happens.

Think I would pull out the DMM and re-verify all vehicle wires and check all solder connections.

---

I have a dmm and checked all the voltage and ground. Not sure how to check the ignition wires though.
I took the BLACK/ white for the domelight output and grounded it out and the lock button will lock the car and attempts to start it also. Before it wouldn't lock it.

It's reset to factory defaults and no tach wire is hooked up. Just no idea on why it keeps cranking with the lock button. I'm ready to pull my hair out. What's my next step in troubleshooting.

With the orange and pink wires disconnected, nothing changes.

The guy that usually does my installs says the starter wire is backwards. I cut the yellow and purple goes into the loom and green goes into the 6pin harness that plugs into the key. Seems right to me. If it was backwards I would assume it wouldn't crank at all. Right?

If the starter connections were backwards and the Avital was locked/alarmed the remote start's Starter signal wouldn't get to the vehicle and start the car.  For what it's worth, you can go without Starter Kill / Anti-Grind by reconnecting the cut Yellow wire and just attaching the Purple wire to it.

Do you have any extra wires connected from the 5303 to the car that aren't on the list?
Almost sounds like the Lock or Arm wire is connected to this wire :
H1/10 WHITE/ BLUE (-) REMOTE START ACTIVATION INPUT
All of the unused wires should be insulated and safely secured out of the way.

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Soldering is fun!

Also on the manual for the remote start I didn't see anything for lock motor wire. What does that do exactly?
And my manual says it's gray (5-wire type), what does that mean?

kreg357 wrote:

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If the starter connections were backwards and the Avital was locked/alarmed the remote start's Starter signal wouldn't get to the vehicle and start the car.  For what it's worth, you can go without Starter Kill / Anti-Grind by reconnecting the cut Yellow wire and just attaching the Purple wire to it.

Do you have any extra wires connected from the 5303 to the car that aren't on the list?
Almost sounds like the Lock or Arm wire is connected to this wire :
H1/10 WHITE/ BLUE (-) REMOTE START ACTIVATION INPUT
All of the unused wires should be insulated and safely secured out of the way.

---

For now I'm going to leave it otherwise I would have friend my starter :)
White blue is not connected. I taped up all my connections and every connection connected is soldered.
I think I gave you everything I got so far.

The Lock Motor wire is not used for your install.  It is another way to directly lock a specific door.  You should be able to control the door locks with the standard Type B (-) connections via the 5303's Blue & Green wires.

This DEI manual gives a pretty good description on how to test / identify the ignition wires :  https://www.readyremote.com/pdf/manuals/24923.pdf

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Soldering is fun!

That is what I used to do the door locks and they work, but the lock also starts the car. I talked to someone that knows remote starts and sent him some pics and he thinks it's a programming issue and is asking me if I'm setup for voltage or tach. I have no idea how to change it or do the programming.

Even with those 2 wires disconnected (the lock wires) the lock button still starts the car.

I can't get this thing into programming mode. I turn the key on then off and hold the button and the light doesn't go on or chirp. Instead it goes to valet mode. Now here is something on. LED stays on while in valet mode and the lock/unlock buttons work perfectly fine and don't attempt to start the car. And the * works to start the car just like it should. I need this but not in valet mode lol

Not an Avital person but check Page 37 of the install guide.

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Soldering is fun!

Anyone else have input?

Even if I switch the purple and green starter wires around it still tries to start.