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need assistance compustar cm6200 f150

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=129441
Printed Date: May 09, 2024 at 10:50 PM


Topic: need assistance compustar cm6200 f150

Posted By: danspeed1
Subject: need assistance compustar cm6200 f150
Date Posted: November 29, 2011 at 6:40 AM

I have a 99 Ford F150 that is giving me hell. I am trying to wire in a Compustar CM6200 remote start, keyless entry system. Here is what is occurring.

I wired the door locks in with 2 relays because they require a positive trigger to lock/unlock. When I use the switch on the door, the door locks lock and unlock, however when I press the button on the remote its almost like there is not enough energy being given to the actuator. It sort of half moves, (I hear it engaging),.. the lock only moves half way and does not lock or unlock the vehicle. What could be causing this?

Secondly, the remote start is inoperable. It clicks 3 times, then clicks once and nothing happens. No ignition, nothing... In addition I have a Fortin Key overide all... yellow wire to ignition, Rx to Grey/orange pats, TX to WHITE/ Lt Green, and blue to the Cm6200... there is a button you can press to program it, the thing doesn't even light up???????

DG

-------------
1971 Chevelle SS
1989 Corvette
1996 Impala SS



Replies:

Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: November 29, 2011 at 6:30 PM

Think the 1999 F150 locks are either Type B(-) or 5 Wire REV not Type A(+).  If your truck does not
have Factory Keyless Entry then it should be 5 Wire REV.   Here is a link to the wiring diagram :
https://www.the12volt.com/doorlocks/page3.asp#5w

On the bypass module, how is Connector 1 wired up?  That supplies the power to the module.  The module must
be programmed to the truck for a successful remote start up.



-------------
Soldering is fun!




Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: November 29, 2011 at 11:11 PM
door locks should be neg or rev polarity.

you have 3 flash errors during remote start because you must have it in manual mode.

on the cm6200, there is a small door/cover. open it up and if its automatic snip the wire.

for the bypass, hold the programming button, plug in the 4pin power connector, and when the red LED stays solid release the button. connect the other white connector turn on ign and it will flash which indicates programmed.



-------------
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert




Posted By: danspeed1
Date Posted: November 30, 2011 at 9:18 AM
kreg357 wrote:

Think the 1999 F150 locks are either Type B(-) or 5 Wire REV not Type A(+).  If your truck does not
have Factory Keyless Entry then it should be 5 Wire REV.   Here is a link to the wiring diagram :
https://www.the12volt.com/doorlocks/page3.asp#5w

On the bypass module, how is Connector 1 wired up?  That supplies the power to the module.  The module must
be programmed to the truck for a successful remote start up.




I made a few calls to some local shops that seem to think I have type c 5 wire door locks. Right now ground the wires does nothing. I have 2 relays hooked up to the door lock/unlock wires that are feeding 12v+ to the door locks when I press the button. It is actuating the door locks, however they only move a little bit. I recently noticed when I press the door lock button more than a couple times the wires get hot! I am confused as to what type of system I have and how to wire it.

-------------
1971 Chevelle SS
1989 Corvette
1996 Impala SS




Posted By: danspeed1
Date Posted: November 30, 2011 at 9:21 AM
tedmond wrote:

door locks should be neg or rev polarity.

you have 3 flash errors during remote start because you must have it in manual mode.

on the cm6200, there is a small door/cover. open it up and if its automatic snip the wire.

for the bypass, hold the programming button, plug in the 4pin power connector, and when the red LED stays solid release the button. connect the other white connector turn on ign and it will flash which indicates programmed.




Got the remote start to turn over. It was a tach sensing issue. Spent 4 hours on the phone with fortin. Their Key-Overide-All is not working with my vehicle. They gave me 4 hours of their time and then washed their hands and told me to purchase another module.

DG

-------------
1971 Chevelle SS
1989 Corvette
1996 Impala SS




Posted By: danspeed1
Date Posted: November 30, 2011 at 10:27 AM
UPDATE:

Door Locks are now functioning correctly. It was in fact a 5-wire setup. Using the diagram on this site I was able to correctly wire the door locks. They function beautifully now.

Now for the only other issue. The key over ride. I would prefer not leaving a key in a box in the car but if I have to I will. What are my other options. I have the fortin Key-override-all wired in correctly per fortin tech support and it is still not working. Are there any other units that work better that I can try? or an I stuck with buying a second key, having it programmed, and then putting it in the box?

DG

-------------
1971 Chevelle SS
1989 Corvette
1996 Impala SS




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: November 30, 2011 at 11:26 AM
My favorite is the DEI 1100F, available "online" N.I.B. for $15.  The install guide is in the downloads section.  It's a Data type bypass so no key in the  box.  The module is now discontinued and actually an iDatalink piece.  Works flawlessly and is easy to program.

-------------
Soldering is fun!




Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: December 01, 2011 at 8:02 AM
for the key override, ground the blue GWR wire and what does the led show?

solid is programmed, if flashing its not programmed properly.

that blue wire from the bypass will be connected to black of the compustar ouput.

-------------
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert




Posted By: danspeed1
Date Posted: December 01, 2011 at 6:06 PM
Here is where we stand with the Fortin:

THE WHITE HARNESS:
The RX (receiving) wire on the Fortin (color:PURPLE / White) is connected to Grey/Orange on the Barrel Wiring Harness)

The TX (transmitting) wire on the Fortin (color: Yellow/Black) is connected to the WHITE/ Light Green on the Barrel Wiring harness

Yellow Wire connected to RED / Green Ignition wire (wire was tested for current when ignition turns on)

Blue wire on Fortin was connected to black wire on Compustar


BLACK HARNESS: Per Fortin Tech Support was cut in half.

Red wire on Fortin connected to constant 12+ power
Black wire on Fortin to Ground.


To program --- per Fortin Tech support:

Hold the button, insert the white harness, followed by the black harness... when LED is lit remove finger from button. First key goes in ignition, ignition on, wait for theft light to go off, remove key, repeat. Remote start vehicle....

Vehicle cranks continuously, theft light flashes, does not start.


Insert key into the ignition, remote start vehicle: vehicle starts immediately... signifies to me that the Fortin is not working.

DG

-------------
1971 Chevelle SS
1989 Corvette
1996 Impala SS




Posted By: danspeed1
Date Posted: December 01, 2011 at 6:21 PM
kreg357 wrote:

My favorite is the DEI 1100F, available "online" N.I.B. for $15.  The install guide is in the downloads section.  It's a Data type bypass so no key in the  box.  The module is now discontinued and actually an iDatalink piece.  Works flawlessly and is easy to program.


I only have 1 key, will this work with only 1 key?

Has anyone had success using this specifically with an F150?

DG

-------------
1971 Chevelle SS
1989 Corvette
1996 Impala SS




Posted By: metz35
Date Posted: December 01, 2011 at 6:41 PM
Will not work with only one working key. Me being a compustar guy the only way I know of to do a ford with only one key is by using a blade-al and using fm3 firmware then having idatalinks website decode the info with there KLON process




Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: December 01, 2011 at 8:26 PM
you will only need one key for this bypass module.

Looking at the 4pin connector from the back side, with the push connector facing up, the far left pin to the right is TX,RX,IGN,Ground.

PURPLE / white to RX pin 2
yellow/black to TX pin 1
Blue to compustar black gwr
yellow to ignition pin3

program:
hold black button, insert black 4pin cable, insert remaining white cable, release programming button.

insert key and turn onto ignition, wait for security light in dash to turn off and remove key. put key back in and turn onto ignition, wait for light in cluster to turn off, remove key and start vehicle by remote starting. wait for it to flash 10times and its ready.



-------------
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: December 01, 2011 at 8:50 PM

Agree with Ted.  Keep trying with the Fortin piece.  Black Connector 1 first, followed very quickly by Connector 2.  Also try the manual trans method by jumping +12v to the Ignition wire.

Your wire colors / connections are correct.  Only need one key for that year F-150 ( PATS1 ).

While I have not used it on that year F-150, the DEI 1100F should work.  It is listed in the install guide.



-------------
Soldering is fun!




Posted By: danspeed1
Date Posted: December 02, 2011 at 3:25 AM

tedmond wrote:

you will only need one key for this bypass module.

Looking at the 4pin connector from the back side, with the push connector facing up, the far left pin to the right is TX,RX,IGN,Ground.

PURPLE / white to RX pin 2
yellow/black to TX pin 1
Blue to compustar black gwr
yellow to ignition pin3

program:
hold black button, insert black 4pin cable, insert remaining white cable, release programming button.

insert key and turn onto ignition, wait for security light in dash to turn off and remove key. put key back in and turn onto ignition, wait for light in cluster to turn off, remove key and start vehicle by remote starting. wait for it to flash 10times and its ready.


Ted, that is my exact setup.  I spent 4 hours on the phone with Fortin and this unit refuses to accept the code.

The light comes on; no matter how many times we tried we could not get it to flash 10 times. 

I see you did not mention the first harness (the black one).  They told me red goes to a 12volt constant and black goes to ground.  Are their any other wires they are forgetting to tell me to connect, or is their an alternate way to hook this thing up?

DG



-------------
1971 Chevelle SS
1989 Corvette
1996 Impala SS




Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: December 02, 2011 at 7:45 AM
red is constant 12v, black is ground.

try this, switch the tx/rx wires and try to reprogram.
sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't.

if it does not work, check to see if the bypass has been locked.

Unplug all connections.
Press and hold the programming button
Plug in black 4pin connector

LED remains off - module is NOT locked, will still program
LED flashes - the module is locked and will NOT accept programming

-------------
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert




Posted By: danspeed1
Date Posted: December 03, 2011 at 7:08 AM
tedmond wrote:

red is constant 12v, black is ground.

try this, switch the tx/rx wires and try to reprogram.
sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't.

if it does not work, check to see if the bypass has been locked.

Unplug all connections.
Press and hold the programming button
Plug in black 4pin connector

LED remains off - module is NOT locked, will still program
LED flashes - the module is locked and will NOT accept programming


Tried everything above... module is unlocked however will still not accept programming and will not flash 10 times at the end. Any other ideas?

-------------
1971 Chevelle SS
1989 Corvette
1996 Impala SS




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: December 03, 2011 at 7:27 AM
kreg357 wrote:

Agree with Ted.  Keep trying with the Fortin piece.  Black Connector 1 first, followed very quickly by Connector 2.  Also try the manual trans method by jumping +12v to the Ignition wire.


Did you try it this way at Step 8a?



-------------
Soldering is fun!




Posted By: danspeed1
Date Posted: December 04, 2011 at 1:48 AM

That I did not try.  Let me try it and post back with my results. 

DG



-------------
1971 Chevelle SS
1989 Corvette
1996 Impala SS




Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: December 04, 2011 at 8:21 AM
i have a feeling there is a problem with the ignition wire from the bypass to the vehicle.

you can try what kreg mentioned and manually jump the ign wire, or just power on the ign to the bypass manually.

-------------
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert





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