2007 chevy cobalt remote start

Hello, I am trying to install a remote start/alarm/keyless entry on a 2007 Chevy Cobalt LS, 4 door. I was able to install everything without a problem except the remote start. I am using the key in the box bypass (556U) with ICBM 7071 remote start. If anyone has a few minutes to share the relay and resister diagram with me for this car I would be for ever greatfull! And do I have to do the accessory drop out circuit along with resister & relay? Thank you in andvance..

Here is the Passlock2 diagram  :  https://documents.audiovox.com/700122.pdf

Not familiar with the R/S unit you are using but most quality brands do drop the Accessory output when the Starter output goes positive.

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Soldering is fun!

Thank you for for posting that diagram. The 2007 Cobalt uses the passkey 3 system. Do you know if this diagram would work on passkey 3? I know the diagram shows a 4 wire ignition, but mine has a 5 wire ignition. Thank you again for your help

Ooopps, sorry.  They did change to all PK3+ in 2007.  Here is a link to the DEI Tech Tip 1606  :  https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=528     ( I usually use an iDatalink bypass module on PK3+ vehicles for the extra features, never tried it this way. )

Here is a link to the DEI wire guide :  https://www.readyremote.com/main.asp?make=Chevrolet&model=Cobalt

Here is another link to some good info on the Cobalt  :  https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=717   It's listed as covering the 2005 - 2007 models but it shows the 2005 model.

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Soldering is fun!

for what its worth, just get a data bypass and you wont have to worry about failed remote start attempts.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

I know there are a lot easiers ways to do this. This is the first key in the box unit i have ever tried to install. The 556u will most likly be replaced by PKUCG2X after I am sure i know how to use the key in box. Thank you again kreg357 for taking the time to help other people!

If you get an un-cut PK3 Circle + key you can leave it un-cut and program it with a remote start at the proper time.  A little safer that way.  There are a number of vehicles that the "key in the box" is the only way to do it.

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Soldering is fun!

A lot of diagrams show to use the correct resister on the WHITE/ black wire, but the one of 556u does not show to use a resister. Does the antenna loop provide the resister value from the key? And thank you for confirming that I don't have to have the new key cut. I was wondering if blank key could be programmed to the car through the antenna loop.

The DEI 556UW will only bypass the transponder ( PK3 ) portion of the immobilizer.  It will not bypass the Passlock2 ( resistor ) part of the system. 

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Soldering is fun!

So basically the Ion/Cobalt diagram you linked in your first reply would have been the right one to use? The relay in the 556u diagram is the same as one of the relays in the Ion/Cobalt diagram with the exception on 3rd ignition (-) which I would think would serve the same purpose as (-) when remote start wire? And the other relay looks like it should work as well.
Thanks for answering all my noob questions. Tons of help!

the bypass will need to turn on prior to ignition, it might work with for this car using that 3rd ignition. does the unit you have offer a status out or gwr?

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

The remote start I am using does have a (-) bypass output when remote start. That should serve the same purpose as a (-) 3rd ignition right? It should just ground the relays and bypass modual only during remote start.

use the (-) bypass output for the bypass, and use the 3rd ignition for your addition ignition wires if you need it. down the road if you have problems, you can diagnose it more easily.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Does anyone know if I used DEI dlpk with 2007 cobalt. Does the accessory wire from remote start need to be connected to car also? The diagram shows to connect the accessory wire from bypass to car. So would the bypass unit power the acc wire in car? My remote start does not drop accessory power when starting. If acc from R/S does connect to car & I use a relay to drop power during start would acc from bypass connect before or after relay?
Sorry if this sounds like I am confused.

what starter are you using? Are you sure it isn't a programming option??? If not, then I would connect the bypass after the relay so that the bypass sees the drop as well.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

So I decided not to use the DLPK. Instead I'm using DB-ALL (GM5 firmware, W2W). When I programmed the bypass the led light on the bypass did everything the instructions said it would to indicate it programmed correctly. When I try to activate the remote start everything acts like it going to start. The parking lights flash, headlights come on, radio and all dash lights come. But the engine never tries to crank. I was just wondering if there could be something I am missing, or what could cause everything to start working but never turn over? The remote start I'm using is Performance-Teknique ICBM 7071.

Post up how you wired up the acc drop circuit. the remote starter should drop the acc. automatically, but its possible the starter you have doesn't drop it. Test the acc wire while remote starting it and make sure it is dropping voltage during what would be the cranking period.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

I have done 3 Cobalts within the last month....I have used the DB-ALL bypass module flashed with the GM5 firmware and it has worked flawlessly every time.  The module runs me just short of $70 from my distributor, but the time and convenience it saves makes up for the cost.  No "extra key to bury", no relays at all, and definitely no resistors are needed.  You should check it out.

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I apologize for my previous post as I did not read far enough along to see that you are indeed using the DB-ALL.  Are you sure that it has been flashed with the correct firmware (which is GM5)?  You may be making the same mistake I did when I used one for the first time....Since it's a DB-"ALL" I assumed it would work right out of the box but it did not.   After researching a little bit, I found out that the DB-ALL comes preloaded with one version of Chrysler firmware but that's it.  I had to buy an XK-Loader2 and flash it myself with the firmware that I needed.  Once I did that it worked perfectly.

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I am using the DB-ALL bypass mod. For some reason i just cant get the car to start. Everything comes on like it is going to start but the engine just never does crank over. The DB-ALL's LED light flashed according to the instructions to show it programmed correctly. I have tested the break wire to make sure it never shows volts during RS. I have tesed all door triggers with door open & closed, hood & trunk same way. I also tested each door 1 @ time, hood & trunk too with the query button on my key fob. They all show open when they are open & closed when they are closed. Is there another place I can connect the tach wire other than a fuel injector? The RS says I can use rpm signal or constant +12v power. It also says the tach is self learning. No way to program the tach. I have checked to make sure it is not in diesel mode, & the only way to put it into manual trans mode it to cut a loop on outside of unit. I have also wired in a relay for an accessory drop-out circuit. still no luck. I am lost here.

It is flashed to GM5

Just wanted to thank everyone who has given me advice & helped me with this project. With the help from everyone the R/S finally works on car. So if anyone else is having problems with the DB-ALL on Cobalt, be sure to connect the starter output wire from R/S to starter input wire on DB-ALL. That was my only problem. So thank you again everyone!