2009 honda accord, remote starter

I will be doing a remote start install in a 2009 Honda Accord sedan.  Any tips/advice?  I am thinking of putting in an Avital 4113 one button remote start.  Thinking of using the directed PKALL bypass.  Any advice or tips would be greatly appreciated.

My other choice of remote start I may use is the Audiovox aps901 which I recently put in a 2007 Civic.

Both units are good, and similar to install.

I like the Audiovox unit's remotes better, and the LED and valet switch built into the antenna is a nice touch.

The Avital requires you to lay on your back and squint at the onboard LED during programming, and then there's also the programming and control switches to decide where you're going to put them.

But you definitely wouldn't go wrong either way.

Accord doorlock wires are in the door, so if you're doing a transponder-only bypass, you'll need to run wires into the door to disarm the factory alarm, and unlock after remote started.

If you can find a Fortin HONDA-SL-3, it'll probably be a few dollars cheaper than the PKALL and work just as well.....it's cheaper because it just does Honda.

(The PK-ALL would give you the ability to remove it and put it into another car later, like a Ford or Toyota, if that's in your future plans. Otherwise, it's extra money you don't need to spend.)

Where I work, we use the HONDA-SL-3 and run the wires into the door, so we get paid more labor commission.

On the other hand, if you have some money in the budget and you want a cleaner/easier install, consider the FLCAN to go with the APS901C. It plugs data-to-data into the remote starter, and handles locks, tach, brake, and disarm........the entire remote starter installation will all be at the steering column. Really: just your ground, antenna, bundle or wires running up the column, and that's it.

If you do buy an FLCAN, make sure you either have the cable to flash it, or buy from a seller who will flash it with the proper firmware for you.

Also, see if this Accord has automatic headlights, and if the car's driver uses them. If the switch is left on "auto" and the remote starter it started and then times out, the headlights will stay on indefinitely, draining the battery.

At the steering column harness there is a "lights off" wire that will test as ground in the Off position, and then the ground goes away in all other positions.

Connect a "pulse after shutdown" output to the "lights off wire" so the autolamps will go out when the remote starter times out. (GREEN / WHITE on Avital, BLACK/ red on Audiovox.)

if you are installing for the first time, i suggest a CAN module that will do door locks, disarm, trunk etc. It will reduce install time.

a fortin evoall will work or idatalink ads-al-ca

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/downloads.asp?srch=all&term=accord

you will find the second and third links posted very helpful.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

I am really leaning towards the Audiovox.  I want the car to remote start, be able to unlock with the RS remote.  Would like the rear defroster turned on.  So I should get the Honda-SL3 for bypass, but what about the locks/disarm and whatnot.  Should I use the CAN-SL2 or FLCAN?

Chris you have PM

youre going to have a hard time finding the can-sl2 as its not made anymore. the flcan or EVOALL or idatalink ads-al-ca will all do the same job.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Ok so this is what came in the mail.  Audiovox APS901, Honda-SL3 and CAN-SL2.

From what I understand this is all I am going to need beside couple of relays to do the install. 

What is the best way to wire these all up together?  I would like to make this as easy and simple of an install as I can since the weather is getting pretty cold.  Both the Honda-SL3 and the CAN-SL2 have input connections with 12V, Ground, and two Data-Link wires.

If anyone who can give me details on exactly how they recommend I wire all this up to the Audiovox it would be greatly appreciated, Thanks.

you shouldn't need any addition relays for the install. no addition acc/start/ign required.

the only relay you will need is the starter kill if you choose to add one.

make w2w connections short and clean and no issues should occur.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

the can sl2 will do more than just locks. it allows trunk pop, disarm/rearm etc. just tap off power and ground and gwr.

i used the exact combination on my vehicle. look at the link in my previous posts.



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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Well the RS I am using is an Audiovox APS901.  It does not do trunk, and it does not have a lock, arm, unlock and disarm wires.  I have pulsed ground before start, pulsed ground during start, ground after start and after shutdown. 

According to one of your links, the lock,unlock, arm and disarm are in the drivers kick.  Reason for me purchasing the CAN was to not go into the door.  Now since my RS does not have disarm and arm wires as mentioned before and I do no see arm and disarm on the CAN paperwork, I can take the pulsed ground before start out of the RS and connect that to unlock on the CAN, take the pulsed ground during start from the RS and connect that to the lock on the CAN.  What about arm/disarm? 

arm and disarm is done via data. you just need to have the igniton wire from the bypass connected to the car.
when the cansl2 senses signal from the STATUS it will send codes through CAN to disarm the car. hook the REarm to the loc kon the can-sl2

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Ok to clarify this is how I will make the connections.

HONDA SL3

12v, ground, and gwr. Data wire for bypass

CAN SL2

12v, ground (these i will connect together with honda sl3) gwr, the two data wires, lock from RS to lock of can, unlock from RS to unlock of can.

Am I missing anything?  Audiovox has no trunk so I will skip that.  It does have ground pulsed after shutdown which I may wire to the Accord's rear defrost not sure yet.

the defrost is a constant (-) 8 min trigger.

using the ground pulse after shutdown wont work. even if that was a mistake and you meant to say ground pulse after running.



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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

I ment after shutdown I will use that to turn off auto headlights. After start for defrost.

okay.

however as i mentioned, the pulse after start wont work to turn on your defrost. it is a latched (-) which can be your status or third acc (-)

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Out of curiousity I have heard and read that the to do door locks I would have to go inside the door (if not using CAN) however there is a link on this site that has the wiring info and it says driver's kick.  I find this to be misleading and not sure which one is right, driver's kick, inside the door but both places it can be done.  Like I said I am just curious, I am going to be using a CAN module so I dont need to worry.

the door locks are inside the driver door, it is sent from the window switch module to the inside of the car via data.

the fortin wiring guide as i posted states in the driver kick panel, but its really not there.

you can get locks inside the car, but its a PITA to get to. When i did my car, i dug for it in the dash area. Same colours as inside the door, but very hard to get access to.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Does anyone know which wire is the "lights off" in the steering colomn? What color?

pulse driver door pin or

autolights RED (-) At Light Switch, 12 Pin Plug, Pin 9


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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

So thanks to everyone for their comments and advice, super easy car.  Took me less than 2 hours to do this car.  Just wish I could have done something with this RS to turn on the rear defrost. 

Someone should add to the wiring list that "lights off" wire for Accords with auto headights.