add on remote start
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=129627
Printed Date: May 15, 2024 at 10:12 PM
Topic: add on remote start
Posted By: specs
Subject: add on remote start
Date Posted: December 10, 2011 at 3:34 PM
Hello all...looking for some assistance in choosing an add-on remote start module for a 2005 Audi A4 Quattro 1.8T Tiptronic. Thinking of either the Avital 4003 or the Prestige AS9076C, as I just want to use my factory keyless entry transmitter....any opinions on either of these two choices? Also, what would be the best bypass to use in this application? I'm not able to use remote door lock/unlock when the vehicle is running, is there a bypass that will get around this? Would the DLPK work here, without me having to give up a key? Thanks in advance for any input on this.......Al
Replies:
Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: December 10, 2011 at 5:28 PM
I can't think of any bypass that gets the factory keyless to work with the car running, and I'm 100% sure you'll have to give up a key.
You could try an Avital 4113....it's a single-button unit that does start and unlock, but also has an activation input so you can trigger it with your factory keyless. That way, you can use it either way, and if you change your mind you don't have to re-do your install: Press lock twice (or three times) on factory keyless to start, or carry the 1-button if you want.
The Audiovox AS9233ST can do the same thing, but costs more, because it adds an alarm too.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: December 10, 2011 at 6:26 PM
And if you have to give up a key use a valet key, programmed by an Audi dealer and a 556UW wired European fashion as per the instructions.
I just remembered there's a trick to override the locking system with engine running but it means the vehicle will be deadlocked in that state so I won't.
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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: specs
Date Posted: December 10, 2011 at 7:38 PM
Thanks for the quick replies guys.....as far as the keyless entry not working when the vehicle is under remote start, I think I can live with that....just have to use the key to access the vehicle, right? The only place I need the remote start is in the garage at home or out the back door at work so the diminished range of the factory remote is not a problem....and I can live with having to unlock the door with the key when I go to leave. As far as having to give up a key, wouldn't the DLPK or the Fortin EVO-CAN get around this....or am I missing something here?......Al
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: December 11, 2011 at 2:14 AM
You effectively need a by-pass to overcome the factory immobiliser (and I'd like to get my hands on the German designer/politician who in the 80s decided cars would need them) and a CAN unit to take care of locks, windows, triggers etc. One vehicle you almost HAVE to do D2D.
Having said that, left hand rear under the light fitting is the factory lock/alarm combi, might be worth while obtaining a wiring diagram for it and experimenting.
-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: December 11, 2011 at 5:18 PM
Sorry, I was thinking of the A3, it's in the right hand rear section on the A4.
-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: specs
Date Posted: December 11, 2011 at 8:39 PM
Thanks for the further information on this Howie....gonna do a bit more research on this before I proceed. Any opinions on either of the bypass kits mentioned in my post above this.......thanks again, Al
Posted By: graywire
Date Posted: December 12, 2011 at 12:49 AM
Hello, I just installed a Python 413 remote starter as add on to an alarm in a 2001 Dodge Neon for my nephew, when he bought this car it had an automate 435 alarm (no power locks, no power windows, no trunk release) everything manual. Remote start works with the Python remote or with the trunk release from the automate remote connected to activation input in the python 413. The problem is: the alarm has to be disarmed before remote start or it will go off.
I have checked the automate 435 installation manual and I can't find an alarm disarm wire. Does he have to disarm every time he wants to remote start his car or is there another way to disarm this system using the disarm wire from the 413? I disconected the ignition wire of the alarm and connected it to ignition output of the 413 as the installation manual says but no luck. Thanks.
------------- Millenium Chevy Impala.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: December 12, 2011 at 1:24 AM
To the last poster, unfortunately no!
-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: graywire
Date Posted: December 14, 2011 at 2:09 AM
Thanks howie II, I guess I'm gonna have to remove the alarm and install actuators for the door locks and use lock/unlock on the Python 413 remote. I can also use the siren as lock/ unlock chirp instead of the horn.
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Millenium Chevy Impala.
Posted By: specs
Date Posted: March 23, 2012 at 12:27 PM
Hello, just getting back around to actually installing the above mentioned Avital 4003 into 2005 Audi A4...using a TBXKEY bypass module with valet key contained inside. Just have a couple questions I hope someone can help me with. Used the blue/white lock wire (lock module in driver's door) for activation input...going to have it set to 3 pulses for remote start. My questions have to do with disarming the factory security on remote start......I'm assuming the alarm is going to go off when I R/S if I don't disarm prior to? Avital install manual shows light GREEN/ black wire on 9 pin harness being factory alarm disarm (-)....would I route this back to PURPLE / green unlock wire at driver's door lock module? Wiring diagram I have shows that factory alarm disarms with single pulse to unlock. Also, Avital mentions using a relay to provide either a + or - pulse to factory unlock wire...is this still necessary if the R/S module is already putting out a - pulse, which is what I need? Thanks for any advice, Al
Posted By: specs
Date Posted: March 27, 2012 at 10:49 AM
Hello, anyone able to provide any help on the above question? Also having an issue on getting the remote start to trigger off the lock wire in the drivers door. Don't know if I'm using the DMM properly to try and locate the proper wire needed for the r/s actvation input. Wiring diagrams seem to point toward the blue/white lock wire (-), at module inside drivers door, being the proper choice...when I hook up the meter (pos. red lead to 12 volt, probe wire with black neg) wire shows .77 V at rest and jumps to .78V when I hit the unlock button.Is this the wrong wire to use, or am I not using the DMM properly to check for negative trigger? Any assistance much appreciated.....Al
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: March 27, 2012 at 11:20 AM
Well then .77-.78 with the meter set at 20VDC?
Then you can ignore that one can't you.
Could I suggest using a Snap-On test light (incandescent bulb) ground the croc clip (not to a bolt in the door) or to a brown wire and probe your suspected cable with the lock catch thrown over.
You should be able to pick up lock control wire at the pump in rear or even 5 wire inside at the pump motor.
-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: specs
Date Posted: March 27, 2012 at 12:25 PM
Thks for the speedy reply Howie....as far as the proper way to use the DMM, should I be seeing a spike to 12V (with the meter hooked up as mentioned previously) when I probe the correct wire...indicating the - pulse I need to activate the remote start? Also, what advantage does using the test light give me over using the multimeter? Thks again for the help....Al
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: March 27, 2012 at 1:40 PM
Personally I find a DMM useless in these situations.
Test light is old school, the incandescent NOT LED bulb draws enough current to trigger the lock relay.
You have to be careful in using it. Only on known 12 volt circuits.
I was obviously being a bit sarcastic, that change isn't one in the real world.
Expect to see a change of 12volts, even 3-7V on a multiplex wire.
-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: specs
Date Posted: March 27, 2012 at 1:48 PM
Thanks again Howie.....will have a go tonight and let you know how it goes, much appreciated! Al
Posted By: specs
Date Posted: March 28, 2012 at 10:30 AM
Hello all.....had no success on this whatsoever last night! The wiring diagrams I have indicate blue/white wire at drivers door module, but this only pulses neg. when unlocking with the key.....not with remote unlock. Checked all the other wires in the 3 harnesses in the door and couldn't find a single one to do the job. Anybody have any further suggestions, or am I doing something wrong here (looking in the wrong place)? Any advice appreciated! Al
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: March 28, 2012 at 11:01 AM
I tend to run a mile from post 2002 German cars but what happens if you actually ground this wire as I've already suggested, does it do the job?
Just had another thought, try measuring the resistance down this wire, it might be multiplex.
-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: specs
Date Posted: March 28, 2012 at 11:36 AM
Howie, starting to understand your "affinity" for late model German cars! lol...but would like to try and see this through.Not sure I understand which wire you're indicating, are you asking me to try grounding the blue/white at drivers' door module? Also, I don't even to presume to understand the multiplex thing....how does this apply to my search for a negative trigger, maybe not do-able? Thks, Al
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: March 28, 2012 at 11:39 AM
As I already said, with only the driver door open, the latch thrown over, i.e. the door thinks it's closed, ground that wire it should lock the doors, possibly if you keep it grounded, close the windows as well.
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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: specs
Date Posted: March 28, 2012 at 1:30 PM
Howie, think I've been making you repeat yourself...sry 'bout that....didn't understand what you had meant by "latch thrown over" (as in the door thinking it's closed)! I'm with you now! From your above post I'm getting the impression that you think I'm looking for a way to lock the doors from R/S module....what I'm actually looking for is a - trigger to activate the R/S sequence....hope we're on the same page here. Your comment regarding tricking the door into thinking it's closed...is it possible that I couldn't find a - pulse with the remote unlock because the door was open? Will try a few more things tonight....Al
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: March 28, 2012 at 3:03 PM
And I'm with you now, look for driver door motor wire, use that as a (pos) pulse activating the R/S say 3 pulses.
-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
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