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04 colorado, autostart 1775

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=129633
Printed Date: May 05, 2024 at 6:40 PM


Topic: 04 colorado, autostart 1775

Posted By: xc6rider
Subject: 04 colorado, autostart 1775
Date Posted: December 10, 2011 at 6:22 PM

First time poster here, but been reading lots of great info for quite some time, and certainly appreciate it!

Installing a Autostart AS-1775 on a '04 chevy colorado.  Installed one other Autostart before and it was a breeze.  On this one, they've changed the ignition output from the RS unit to a (-) as I'm pretty sure the last one I did was a (+) output. 

WIth the colorado, this is also the first time installing a PLJX or similar... 

Any problems caused if I reverse polarity with a relay from the RS ignition output? This needs to go to a (+) input on the PLJX. 

Also, the RS unit makes note of the output change to (-) and says a diode is required to isolate the circuit.  Never had to install a diode before, but will I need to worry about it if I go the relay route??

Outside of that polarity issue, I think everything else is gonna be straight forward. 

Thanks!!




Replies:

Posted By: xc6rider
Date Posted: December 10, 2011 at 6:32 PM

Almost forgot.... '04 Colorado. 

The PLJX has a jumper for Passlock 1    OR  Passlock2 & VATS.

I believe I set it for Passlock 1...  ???





Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: December 10, 2011 at 6:32 PM
Doubly so if you go the relay route, use a 1N4004 with the band towards the R/S on the -ignition output.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: xc6rider
Date Posted: December 10, 2011 at 6:39 PM
So I will need to use the diode (1N4004)? 




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: December 10, 2011 at 6:44 PM
Yes it protects your circuitry from the relay shut down spike, about 300 volts.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: December 11, 2011 at 6:28 PM

While the Colorado is considered Passlock2, it is slightly different.  Follow the PLJX guide for "ION, CANYON, COLORADO, COBALT, PURSUIT" on Page 3 of the install guide.  The jumper should be horizontal in the lower set of pins ( Factory Default ).

The PLJX Violet Starter wire gets connected directly to the Autostart AS-1775 heavy gauge Purple (+) Starter Output wire.  There is no Starter wire on the Colorado, it starts when it sees the Accessory wire drop.

The PLJX Pink Ignition wire gets connected to the Autostart AS-1775 heavy gauge Yellow (+) Ignition wire, which continues to the Colorado's thin gauge WHITE/ Green Ignition wire.  ( As shown in the install guide. )

Not sure there is any need for polarity changing relays.



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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: xc6rider
Date Posted: December 11, 2011 at 11:09 PM
kreg357 wrote:

While the Colorado is considered Passlock2, it is slightly different.  Follow the PLJX guide for "ION, CANYON, COLORADO, COBALT, PURSUIT" on Page 3 of the install guide.  The jumper should be horizontal in the lower set of pins ( Factory Default ).

The PLJX Violet Starter wire gets connected directly to the Autostart AS-1775 heavy gauge Purple (+) Starter Output wire.  There is no Starter wire on the Colorado, it starts when it sees the Accessory wire drop.

The PLJX Pink Ignition wire gets connected to the Autostart AS-1775 heavy gauge Yellow (+) Ignition wire, which continues to the Colorado's thin gauge WHITE/ Green Ignition wire.  ( As shown in the install guide. )

Not sure there is any need for polarity changing relays.


I appreciate the help guys, for some reason i'm having problems.  Thought I had it all in correctly, but having problems.  Went to "program the PLJX" by starting the truck with key.  Truck cranks and starts for a couple  seconds, then shuts down. Never saw the LED on the PLJX light.  Also, I notice the open door beeper is activated without the key in the ignition, which seems odd. 

I'll try to explain how I have it all connected, and maybe someone can help me nail the problem. 

Remote start connections are as follow: 

  (6 pin harness)          Yellow (which is supposedly - acording to the sticker on brain box)  wire has 1N4004 diode placed, then polarity reversed through relay... relay output then goes to Pink (+) of PLJX &  tapped  onto WHITE/ grn ign wire of truck.

Both Red are run to battery.       Orange Acc tapped onto WHITE/ red of truck.    Purple run to Violet of PLJX.    Green, not used. 

(5 pin harness)           Black to ground.     Purple to pink/white of injector.      Grey to hoodswitch.    Orange to brake switch.     Yellow to BROWN / white behind headlight dimmer.

(12 pin harness)        I believe only 3 wires are needed....   Brown to light blue lock wire of truck.    Green to white unlock wire of truck.     White will be connected to Brown of PLJX (after programmed) 

PLJX as I have wired...

Brown to White from 12 pin of R/S (after programmed).     Blue to WHITE/ blue ECM side.     Violet to Purple of R/S 6 pin harness.     Pink/white to WHITE/ blue KEY side.    Pink to output from relay I wired triggered by R/S 6 pin Yellow.      Red powered by battery.       Black to ground. 

My grounds test good.     Constant 12v is run from the battery to both R/S Red leads, to the Red of the PLJX, and to two terminals (86 and 30) of my relay set-up. 

Do I have any of that screwed up???  I feel as though everything is right, but the use of the relay for polarity change makes me wonder....   

Kreg... You're thinking my Yellow from the R/S should be wired to the Pink of PLJX, and to the WHITE/ grn ignition wire from the key? Thinking I don't need the relay and only the diode?    I had to of been feeding 12v into the WHITE/ green of the truck with my relay set-up, causing the problem of the door beeper without a key in. 

I was tired of messing with it for the night so I sent my friend home with it.  I disconnected the R/S etc... and  reconnected the WHITE/ blue wires.  Then my friend calls on his way home...  lights went out (on auto mode), and security light came on.    This obviously is worrying me.....

Sorry for the mess guys!  Just drives me crazy when I can't figure something out, especially when it's on a friend's truck.   

Once again, truly appreciate any help!!





Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: December 12, 2011 at 6:57 AM

I am not familiar with AutoStart units.  I found a Autostart AS-1775 Install Guide online and am using this as my wiring guide :  https://engines911.com/asdocs/AS_1775_wd_en_h60s60.pdf    The four output wires ( Yellow, Orange, Purple 7 Green ) on that 6 Pin heavy gauge connector are all (+)12V.  The 2 Red wires should be connected to +12V constant to supply their power.

Most remote starters rely on the heavy Ignition1 wire for more that just an output.  It should be connected directly to the vehicles Ignition1 wire and not isolated by a relay.  It is typically used for ignition/voltage sense, programming, etc.

The PLJX bypass might also need it's Pink wire directly connected to the vehicles ignition wire for the same reasons.  Did the PLJX program properly, Step 2 on Page 4 of the PLJX install Guide?



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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: xc6rider
Date Posted: December 12, 2011 at 7:10 AM
I have only installed one other Autostart on a Tundra and had no problems. I know I didn't reverse the ignition wire for it, but I also don't remember seeing the "this wire is now a (-) output sticker" on that unit.


I could not get the PLJX to program... Truck died right away, then I tried the apply brake, put in gear option, also with no luck.




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: December 12, 2011 at 7:22 AM
Think I would verify the AS-1775 outputs with a DMM just to be sure.  There is a YELLOW/WHITE (-) Negative Ignition output wire on a three pin connector.  This could be used to control a relay for an IGN2 or IGN3 wire.

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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: xc6rider
Date Posted: December 12, 2011 at 3:45 PM
Now the damn thing is dying on him after two seconds even after I installed everything back...
Grrrrrreat.




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: December 12, 2011 at 5:08 PM
Did you re-connect ( solder ) the cut Passlock2 wire?

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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: xc6rider
Date Posted: December 12, 2011 at 5:44 PM

I reconnected them with spade connectors as I intended to finish the install soon.  Was wondering if it may cause a problem, but left it as it worked fine multiple times before sending him off with the truck.  I suppose it could be causing just enough of a difference in resistance occasionally.   Security light came on when he was driving home last night but truck started this morning, then wouldn't when he tried to leave work tonight...   oops..  Now I feel terrible, and am gonna have a nice cold work session outside tomorrow (hopefully fixing it).

Now tempted to just remove it all and go back all stock, and hopefully not have any further problems! 

Thanks for all the advice so far, it's really frustrating me..






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