2008 cobalt, alarm/remote start

Hey guys. I know this has been covered, but after searching and searching I didn't quite find the answers I was looking for... maybe I just wasn't looking hard enough and if thats the case I apologize.

My brother asked me to do his g/f's 08 Cobalt. However, the car is located 4 hrs from me and I will be heading up there to grab his sled and was thinking about doing it there to make things easier... so I won't have my normal resources.

I remember doing multiples of these back at C.City, but looking at the diagrams now, it doesn't seem to be coming back to me at all and I had a few questions/concerns. I will be putting in the Python 4103 (maybe the 1401) and DLPK bypass:

1) I'm assuming this is just like most newer GM's and that the starter wire is not used... and that the drop in the accessory voltage automatically triggers the BCM take-over starting. Is this a safe / correct assumption?

2) According to the DLPK install guide it says to make all normal ignition connections. If my above assumption was right, then that will just be 12v constant, ignition, and accessory... correct?

3) I do remember that pretty much every connection can be made right at the BCM in the pass. side of the center console. (not really a question here...)

4) I don't really plan on using the tach signal from the DLPK, but since it really isn't required because of the BCM take-over, is the DLPK tach output sufficient for the over-rev protection or do I need to hard line it to the injector / coil?

5) What is the better parking light wire to use... the + or the -? I usually prefer - since that way it is only driving a relay... but does it need to be isolated with a relay; or am I just better off going with the + wire?

6) With the DLPK, will that integrate both the immobilizer and Passkey protection or will I still need to do the old relay and resistor setup? Going by the DLPK wiring it seems like it takes care of both...

Thanks in advance for the help. The installation won't be happening for another 2 weeks, but I wanted to get all the insight I could now since I won't have it then... and really don't feel like getting it all put in only to find something doesn't work.



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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

I just did this car over the weekend so I'll help where I can.

1) Yes.

2) I can't comment on the use of the DLPK as I used a idatalink ADS-AL CA after talking with the local install shop. I bought an XK09 (fancy version of DLPK I think) and they said they have some trouble with those and some of the cars they use them in come back a couple times a year to get the module reprogrammed. After the simplicity of the ADS-AL I'd certainly recommend using it if you can but I can't badmouth the DLPK as I've never used it. I did not need a relay to hook up the idatalink module as it looks like you will with the DLPK. Everything worked great in D2D mode when hooked up to a viper 5501 and I didn't have to wire in a foot brake status wire either.

3) Most of them yes just make sure the ign and acc wires are hooked up at the ignition harness.

4) Can't help you here.

5) I used the - wire at the BCM and it worked just fine.

6) I would assume it would do both but you know what happens when you assume...

Hope this helps a little.

I thought the ignition wires could also be tagged at the BCM??? When I was searching, I did find that one really in depth write-up with all teh nice pics but it was for an 05. Are the 05 and 08's the same? I'll look into the ADS-AL CA. Did you have to load any firmware or is it pre-loaded from the factory?

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

As far as the ignition and acc wires I was referring to this.

You may be able to find the wires and tap them elsewhere but I wasn't going to chance it I guess.

Ths ADS-AL CA I was told needed to be loaded with the correct firmware before install or it was useless. The guy at the local shop just did it for me before I bought it. I think there are places on the web you can get one and have it programmed for your specific vehicle before they send it out for you.

Thats good to know about the ignition wires. I will probably just go to the switch to play it safe.
As far as the ADS goes, I may look into picking up the programmer since I am doing a few starters this year, and the ADS modules could have come in handy. So to make things easier I may just pick up the programmer and then I don't have to worry about programming it.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Well this is actually going to work out pretty good. i completely forgot but a week or so ago I ordered an ADS-ALSL-GM for a 03 Hummer and the guy backed out. So now I have this bypass with no vehicle to go in... and hey, according to the idatalink site this will work perfectly in an 08 Cobalt.
So this may actually turn out to be not that bad. I'll probably get as much prepped as possible at home and then bring everything I can up there for the install... and hopefully it will all go smoothly.

Insight / opinions / tips are still appreciated!

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Another quick question. Looking at the idatalink install guide, it does not show a parking light connection from the starter or the module. I'm assuming the lights come on automatically when remote starter, but will they flash with lock / unlock or do I have to still make the parking light connection???

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

I'm not sure if they would flash or not without making the parking light connection. I just made the connection (-) assuming they wouldn't.

Well I did this car a while ago but I could not for the life of me get the bypass to program. Because I was in a rush I had to leave it unfinished, but it is coming back tomorrow for me to hopefully finish up. So I need some help one what would not allow the bypass to program. I'm going to recheck connections and firmware, but I'm 99% sure they are both good.

Ted, I remember in a previous thread you mentioned something about needing to connect the starter input to the ADS bypass. Is this just a temporary connection for programming or does it need to be connected solid? And what do I connect it to. If it is just a temporary connection then can I just jumper it during programming and then tape it up and out of the way.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Bring your ADS USB cable with you and re-flash the ADS ALSL GM with the ADS ALSL GM2 firmware.  Do a factory reset, select the install
mode and then program to the Cobalt ( doing a full 3 second wait between key positions ). 

The module needs to see Ignition and Accessory from the vehicle and R/S for programming purposes and to know when to start the
engine ( ACC drops while Ignintion stays while GWR is true ).

Did a 2011 Malibu recently with the GM2 firmware.  The wiring, even the colors, looks identical.

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Soldering is fun!

Luckily its coming to me this time so I'll have full use of my resources. I'll try reflashing it with the GM2 firmware and go through the programming again. That plug looks exactly like the one in the car (from what I can remember)

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

no need to connect the start wire. Only vehicles with the start wire requires the connection.

make sure you power acc and ign at the ignition switch and not the BCM @ dkp.

reflash the idatalink module with the GM2 as kregs mentioned, that's the actual correct firmware for that vehicle. one other thing to note: make sure you correctly wire the passlock wire (car vs switch side)

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

I have a feeeling it is firmware related. Granted I was doing the install in about 10*F weather so my brain may not have been functioning very well, but I went through all of the connections and I'm 90% sure they are good. I'll let you know how I make out tonight.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Success. Sure enough I plugged the bypass into the computer and it was the GM1 firmwared. Updated the firmware, did a system reset, and sure enough it programmed like a charm. The only thing I had to change was driver priority. I originally turned it off (thinking it would unlock all on 1 press) but it ended up throwing it all off. 1 press did nothing, 2nd press did driver door, 3rd press did all doors... lol. So I turned priority unlock back on and everything was great. Started up, tach learned, unlock worked, lock worked, factory alarm arms/disarms, trunk release works, brake input works.
Thanks for the help guys!

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

compustar + idatalink blade = pricey, but the best total integration solution.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

That would be my choice now, but the original install was done before I was able to get compustars. I think I've used the blade bypasses on every car that needed one since I started doing compustars.. lol

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

are you using the TB or the AL?



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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Depends. Because I don't physically stock anything, if the car is not data for anything but immobilizer I use the TB (cheaper). If it is data controlled convenience then I fork out the extra few bucks for the AL. Either way, I love them... lol. I'm very anal when it comes to wire management and the blade modules make it so much easier. Its 1 less item to try and tuck away. Now I just can't wait til the CM7000 so I don't have to keep stuffing extra relays for any 2nd ignition/accessory/starter...haha.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205