Printer Friendly Forum Posts - 2000 audi a4 1.8t quattro rs bypass

I have a 2000 Audi a4 1.8t Quattro. It has a switchblade style key and has HAA on the key. I only have one key for the car. I want to get a remote start system for the car, but don't know if or what bypass I will need. The remote start system I want to get is: Cool Start(TM) 1-Way OEM Add-On Remote Start System Model-RS00G2. The car is manual so I know I will have to do the relay for the clutch to bypass it. So please advise as to what bypass I need again I only have 1 key so any help is appreciated.

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BP

youre going to need another key.

get a blank and have it programmed by a locksmith.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

if I just get a blank key from ebay or something, can I program it myself? Does anyone know the steps how to do that? Also, would it need to be cut too or can I just use a blank uncut key if its programmed? Thanks.

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BP

The dealer does a black valet key for that year.
It's your cheapest option. Not something you can obtain from a locksmith.
Why only one key anyway? A bit silly.
Audi keys are only programmable by the dealers.
You will then need a DEI 556UW and wire it Euro style as owner's manual to the data leads on the ignition switch.
Is this remote start manual transmission compatible?
Is there a dedicated tach wire?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

When I bought the car, there was only 1 key, so I haven't bothered to get another one. Also yes it is manual transmission compatible and there is a tach wire:
Tachometer -- GREEN/ blue -- instrument cluster or ECM on the driver side firewall.

I was doing some research and came across the following, in which I think I may end up doing...

Take the key fob apart, in the long slot there is a glass pill, looks like a long black grain of rice.
That is the computer chip. Remove the chip from the flip and DO NOT BREAK IT $$$. Attach the computer chip under the steering column cover
and as long as it is in range, any key cut to fit the lock will work!
No more activating. You are fooling the system.
Don't damage the glass chip, $$$ and car will not start.

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BP

I meant a dedicated tach wire on the R/S. I'm fully aware of at least three separate places to pick up tach on that vehicle.
In theory that will work in fact don't do it!
We have a dearth of specialised by-passes in Europe and I pull this stunt on Nissans, GM Europe, Ford Europe, Peugeots Toyota etc. You can easily remove the RF chips with no problems.
What you will be doing is disabling the factory immobiliser permanently.
Our alarms here have multiple immobiliser circuits built in, yours don't.
Last but definitely not least try the extraction trick in a VW car and the glass enclosed chip WILL break!
Unlike any other manufacturer it's held in with Superglue which is stronger than the glass enclosed chip.
You are IMO being mean to save $20 probably to have a stuck car, $200 for the key and $150+ for the tow to the dealership. Because they won't program a key for you on site also you will have to buy the whole thing.
Think it through and don't be silly.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Sorry, I apparently forgot to put in my previous post that yes, the remote start does have a dedicated tach wire also.

So IF I were to take the chip out and either hot glue, put it between 2 pieces of Velcro or somehow fasten the chip on the inside of the column where it would be close enough to still start the car with the key I take it out of, it would work for the remote start, but the factory alarm system would no longer work and the door lock feature from the remote would no longer work as well?

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BP

No just the immobiliser which over here would technically negate your insurance.
You obviously intend to go ahead with this daft and IMO expensive route, I must also point out that I omitted BMW from my previous post the reason is that the BMW EWS system is very much like the VAG system and is a very low powered unit to reduce RF interference with the engine management, audio etc.
This means that even if you remove that chip without breaking it it's unlikely to work!
Ah well buy more shares in Philips NV Holland.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Well I am not sure if I am going to do it or not, just getting the reasoning not to as well. So what is the immobilizer? What does that do? Is it just pretty much a signal from the ignition to the ecu saying that it is the right key for the car and it allows it to start and stay running? And everything would still work from my remote, such as my door locks, the trunk pop, the factory alarm etc..?

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BP

You have everything right in your last post.
The car won't start and only an Audi dealer with their labour charges is going to make your car go.
All this for a valet key for $35 and a by-pass for $25.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

so a valet key will have the chip in it too? so i can just use the valet key in the bypass?

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BP

precisely

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Don't you love running around in circles Ted?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

Don't you love running around in circles Ted?

howie although I appreciate your previous help, it is just that...help. Forums are here for that as well, so If you don't want to help anymore, then don't comment. I would like to be sure about something before proceeding and/or buying it. So a snide comment such as the above isn't helpful nor appreciative, so either post something that is of assistance or relevant, or don't post anything, but please don't condescend others in search of assistance.

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BP

We've gone two pages here and you haven't even started! If you went to a shop they would throw you out.
You seem to have a bee in your bonnet that you can do this "on the cheap", well good luck but as Tedmond would probably point out to you there ain't too many here...me apart who've worked on them.
I've given you straight, lucid and to the point answers and now many posts later you seem to have realised what I was getting at.
If you don't want to benefit from my experience, 20+ A3 and A4 well there you go.
Sorry as the moderators here well know I don't do stupidity.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie, I'm not even going to stoop to your level and argue...as previously mentioned, if you're not here to help, then don't respond with anything, and that goes for anyone who tries to condescend others. Regardless, thanks for the help guys, I got it from here.

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BP

That's the whole point, help is me passing on my experience, yes I tried to do the chip thing with VW keys about 10 years ago after I was warned. My experience is what tells you not to but if you don't want to listen.....

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

NOTE to Howie II: I just did a Audi A4 (2004) and a 556UW will NOT work! You need a TBXKEY because it has the option for a 60 windings (euro style immobiliser) versus a 18 windings American style immobiliser!

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thetopinstaller

Thought the 556UW had that option. This excerpt from the 556UW dated N556U 09/04.
Jumper Settings
The 556U is shipped with the jumper set in a 60 winding position (mode 2). For most applications this should
be the optimal setting. Moving the jumper will set the 556U to work off of a 18 winding position (mode 1). You
may use the 18 winding for American and Asian vehicles, but for European vehicles the 60 winding setting is
required. Mode 2 jumper position will be more sensitive to picking up the key vice mode 1 jumper position.

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Soldering is fun!

X 2 with Kreg, but not only that, I never had to change the jumper position.
You might have a problem if you try to use the loop as I've stated here many, many times.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I think the TBXKEY kit has more windings in the LOOP. Maybe thats why it worked for me and not the 556U.............................

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thetopinstaller

You couldn't have read those 556U instructions properly!
Not only can you shift from 60 to 18 but it specifically says to cut and join and NOT to use the loop.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

oooohhhhhh..... Don't like the cut-n-join method-last time we did that we had issues..... I think we stick to the TBXKEY, it's a cut and dried solution. just wrap-n-go But thanks for the input!!

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thetopinstaller

Not a problem if you can solder correctly.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

Not a problem if you can solder correctly.

lol, I can't imagine how many pages this thread is going to have in the next few days. posted_image

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

tedmond wrote:

howie ll wrote:

Not a problem if you can solder correctly.

lol, I can't imagine how many pages this thread is going to have in the next few days.

Hahaha, see what I started!!! Hey, no publicity is bad publicity. Keep the posts coming, and bring on some friends to the forum too. posted_image

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BP

Can't you guys just let it go? Really, there MUST be some other rookies out there you can help. Things must be really slow out there at the Gold and Silver ranch!!

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thetopinstaller

I know I'm new to the forum and this is my first post but B5 Audi A4's do not have an immobilizer. The keys do typically have the chip inside of them but in my old Audi I could drive around just fine with my keyport key. I may be a bit of a noob when it comes to remote starts but I do know Audi's haha.

Or rather the US B5 A4's do not.

somebody5788 wrote:

I know I'm new to the forum and this is my first post but B5 Audi A4's do not have an immobilizer. The keys do typically have the chip inside of them but in my old Audi I could drive around just fine with my keyport key. I may be a bit of a noob when it comes to remote starts but I do know Audi's haha.

No edit feature? I should have been more specific, US B5's do not use an immobilizer.

You might be right but over here it was a requirement for ALL EU cars first registered from 1/1/97 although the Germans were fitting them (with loads of problems) from 92-3.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

You might be right but over here it was a requirement for ALL EU cars first registered from 1/1/97 although the Germans were fitting them (with loads of problems) from 92-3.

Sorry about the earlier triple post, didn't know what I was doing.... haha.

Here is a link to a thread, ironically I was the first one to post in it a year ago but it proves it. https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/361372-immobilizer-defeat.?styleid=8

OK, point taken I mean the bloody things are more trouble than they're worth, so many Mklll Golfs, Audis and Porsches being lifted back to dealers when they went wrong around about 95. Bloody German nanny state legislators.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

ok, so I actually do not need any bypass at all for the remote start because there is NO immobilizer since I have a US model B5?

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BP

No, but the final check is to see if you can hot wire it. Red to black then flash over on the starter wire with the key away from the vehicle. First make sure you're in neutral or park with the parking brake on.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

No, but the final check is to see if you can hot wire it. Red to black then flash over on the starter wire with the key away from the vehicle. First make sure you're in neutral or park with the parking brake on.

What do you mean "flash over on the starter wire with the key away from the vehicle"?

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BP

Have the key a few feet away. Flash = touch for a second or so.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.