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2011 hyundai, viper 5101 wiring

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=129673
Printed Date: March 28, 2024 at 11:17 AM


Topic: 2011 hyundai, viper 5101 wiring

Posted By: ieetgluu
Subject: 2011 hyundai, viper 5101 wiring
Date Posted: December 12, 2011 at 7:56 PM

Hello, Im looking for wiring info on a 2011 Hyundai Sante Fe and perhaps compatible bypass modules.

Thank You




Replies:

Posted By: id sean
Date Posted: December 20, 2011 at 10:22 PM
Is the Hyundai Push to Start?

-------------
Sean McAuliffe
Sales Rep.
Installation Distributors




Posted By: ieetgluu
Date Posted: December 21, 2011 at 10:58 AM

id sean wrote:

Is the Hyundai Push to Start?

 No it has a battery and a starter and a key for starting.....  haha, joking

Im not sure, researching for a family member. Good question though, I hadnt planned on that. The Bulldog site seems to think the '10 and '11 is the same for wiring. Guess thats all I have to go on.......





Posted By: id sean
Date Posted: December 21, 2011 at 11:02 AM
lol good one

12 Volts     red (40A)     +     ignition switch, black 6 pin plug, pin 5
Second 12 Volts     pink (40A)     +     ignition switch, black 6 pin plug, pin 2
Starter     green     +     ignition switch, black 6 pin plug, pin 1
Second Starter     N/A          
Ignition     orange     +     ignition switch, black 6 pin plug, pin 6
Second Ignition     N/A          
Third Ignition     N/A          
Accessory     blue      +     ignition switch, black 6 pin plug, pin 3
Second Accessory     yellow     +     ignition switch, black 6 pin plug, pin 4
Third Accessory     N/A          
Keysense     yellow     +     ignition key switch, white 6 pin plug, pin 3
Data Bus     (only Canadian models have the immobilizer system)          
Can Bus High     yellow (B-CAN), blue (C-CAN)     data     data link connector, black 16 pin plug, pins 1 and 6
Can Bus Low     black (B-CAN), orange (C-CAN)     data     data link connector, black 16 pin plug, pins 9 and 14
Can Bus Sw     N/A          
Power Lock     blue/black     -     driver kick, brown 24 pin plug, pin 18
Power Unlock     gray/black     -     driver kick, brown 24 pin plug, pin 19
Lock Motor     orange     5 wire     dash fuse box, gray 18 pin plug (D), pin 18
Driver Unlock Motor     blue     5 wire     driver kick, brown 24 pin plug, pin 1
Passenger Unlock Motor     blue     5 wire     dash fuse box, gray 18 pin plug (D), pin 7
Parking Lights (-)     blue/orange     -     headlight switch, white 18 pin plug, pin 14
Parking Lights (+)     green (L), yellow (R)     +     dash fuse box, gray 18 pin plug (D), pins 3 and 4
Hazards     gray     -     BCM, white 22 pin plug, pin 7
Turn Signal (Left)     white     +     dash fuse box, gray 18 pin plug (D), pin 11
Turn Signal (Right)     pink     +     dash fuse box, gray 18 pin plug (D), pin 10
Headlight     green (functions with ignition on only)     -     headlight switch, white 18 pin plug, pin 15
AutoLights     GREEN/ black (interrupt to turn off autolights)     -     headlight switch, white 18 pin plug, pin 16
Reverse Light     blue     +     passenger kick, red 20 pin plug, pin 2
Left Front Door Trigger     orange     -     driver kick, brown 24 pin plug, pin 12
Right Front Door Trigger     same as left front door trigger          
Left Rear Door Trigger     same as left front door trigger          
Right Rear Door Trigger     same as left front door trigger          
Remote Start, Security, Keyless Entry, Accessories (Continued)
Item     Wire Color     Polarity     Wire Location
Dome Supervision     brown     -     dash fuse box, red 16 pin plug (B), pin 1
Trunk/Hatch Pin     yellow/black     -     driver kick, brown 24 pin plug, pin 15
Rear Glass Pin     N/A          
Hood Pin     RED / black     -     driver kick, green 24 pin plug, pin 4
Trunk/Hatch Release     locks/unlocks along with doors          
Trunk Release Motor     N/A          
Fuel Door Release     N/A          
Power Sliding Door (Left)     N/A          
Power Sliding Door (Right)     N/A          
Factory Alarm Arm     BROWN / org (key lock), gray (lock/unlock detection)     - and open     driver kick, brown 24 pin plug, pins 5 and 4
Factory Alarm Disarm     pink (key unlock), gray (lock/unlock detection)     both -     driver kick, brown 24 pin plug, pins 6 and 4
Disarm No Unlock     see factory alarm disarm          
Trunk Alarm Shunt     N/A          
Tachometer     NOT orange     ac     any fuel injector
Wait to Start     N/A          
Neutral Safety     N/A          
Clutch Pedal     black (input), WHITE/ orange (output)     - N.O.     clutch switch, white 2 pin plug, pins 1 and 2
Fuel Pump     blue     +     passenger kick, red 20 pin plug, pin 17
Rear Defroster     gray     - latched     driver kick, green 24 pin plug, pin 15
Mirror Defroster     same as rear defroster          
Left Front Heated Seat     GREEN/ orange     -     driver kick, brown 24 pin plug, pin 8
Right Front Heated Seat     GREEN/ black     -     driver kick, brown 24 pin plug, pin 7
Speed Sense     brown     4-Pulse     data link conn, blk 16 pin plug, pin 3 or radio, gry 8 pin plug, pin 1
Brake Wire     GREEN/ black (2.4L), gray (3.5L)     +     brake switch, white 4 pin plug, pin 1
Parking Brake     gray/orange     -     driver kick, blue 22 pin plug, pin 12
Horn Trigger     gray/black     -     driver kick, green 24 pin plug, pin 20
Wipers     green (low), pink (high), yellow (ignition)     +     wiper switch, black 14 pin plug, pins 2, 1, and 5
Left Front Window (Up/Down)     pink - white (without safety power window)     A     power window main switch, white 14 pin plug, pins 6 and 5
Right Front Window (Up/Down)     green - gray     A     driver kick, door harness
Left Rear Window (Up/Down)     brown - pink     A     driver kick, door harness
Right Rear Window (Up/Down)     ORANGE / black - blue     A     driver kick, door harness
Sun Roof (Open/Close)     orange - blue (function with ignition on only)     -     sunroof switch, white 4 pin plug, pins 4 and 2
Sun Roof (Limit/Close)     N/A          
Memory Seat 1     N/A          
Memory Seat 2     N/A          
Memory Seat 3     N/A          

-------------
Sean McAuliffe
Sales Rep.
Installation Distributors




Posted By: ieetgluu
Date Posted: December 30, 2011 at 9:01 AM
Cool, thank you




Posted By: ieetgluu
Date Posted: January 01, 2012 at 11:08 AM

So I  wired a Viper 5101 into this vehicle a few days ago. I am not sure exactly what I was supposed to do with the factory alarm disarm wires. I have wired the 5101's disarm wire to the vehicles pink disarm wire. I have noted that listed with both the arm and disarm wires is the gray lock/unlock detection wire. I was unsure about the connection of this wire so I left it alone. The 5101 will not lock or unlock the vehicle once the factory alarm is armed. Im sure this has to do with the gray lock/unlock detection wire. 

So, Im looking for some information on how this gray wire is connected to the system. This should solve my troubles. Currently the family member who's Sante Fe this is in, is using the viper fob to lock/unlock and r/s the vehicle, as it does not arm the factory alarm and allows for proper control of the door locks. Assistance is appreciated.  Thank You.





Posted By: ieetgluu
Date Posted: January 13, 2012 at 6:19 AM

So I wired a Viper 5101 into a 2011 Hyundai Sante Fe a few weeks ago. I am not sure exactly what I was supposed to do with the factory alarm disarm wires. I have wired the 5101's disarm wire to the vehicles pink disarm wire. I have noted that listed with both the arm and disarm wires is the gray lock/unlock detection wire. I was unsure about the connection of this wire so I left it alone. The 5101 will not lock or unlock the vehicle once the factory alarm is armed. Im sure this has to do with the gray lock/unlock detection wire.

So, Im looking for some information on how this gray wire is connected to the system. This should solve my troubles. Currently the family member who's Sante Fe this is in, is using the viper fob to lock/unlock and r/s the vehicle, as it does not arm the factory alarm and allows for proper control of the door locks. Assistance is appreciated. Thank You.





Posted By: chev104275
Date Posted: January 13, 2012 at 6:30 AM
If there the same as the kia sorento you need to tie that wire with you're vipers unlock wire through a diode band facing remote start system. To test it put you're black lead to ground and you're red lead to the suspect wire. There should be 12v at rest then when you turn the key in the drivers door to unlock 2 times that wire should show ground for a second. I do this to all the newer kias because of that problem

-------------
If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe




Posted By: chev104275
Date Posted: January 13, 2012 at 6:38 AM
I just looked up the wiring for both the kia and the Hyundai.it shows the same wiring they both mention that lock detection wire I've never used it and never had an issue. I've done dozens of the new sorentos just using the yellow/black in the back of the fuse box diode isolated from the unlock wire like I said in my above post. If you look in the pictorials I have one for the sorento

-------------
If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe




Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: January 13, 2012 at 8:21 AM
hey chev, you got a diagram of that? ive always used the lock detection relay diagram from directed and fortin, and it works for me. If i can avoid the relay i would.

-------------
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert




Posted By: chev104275
Date Posted: January 13, 2012 at 11:21 AM
Sorry I don't have a diagram. I'm on my droid right now so I can't make one. But I use the blue/black for lock,pink for factory disarm,gray/black for unlock then from the unlock wire I go to the back if the fuse box and there is a yellow/black wire in the middle connector pin 2 that I tie the unlock wire to. I use the diode to keep the circuits separate. The yellow/black according to the kia shop manual is the 2 turn unlock relay control. The wire is open when locked and grounded when the key is turned twice in the drivers door. This is how ive always done the new kias so the locks work after the car is armed. I started doing these before there was info on them and this it what I found worked for me. one good thing about working for a kia dealer I have all the factory wiring diagrams. I had this problem originaly on a kia soul when they first came out took me 2 days to figure it out. Same with the slight starter grind on key take over that the forte and soul both do need to open the acc wire wuth a relay and GWR to stop thec grind.   Fun times do you have that sheet from directed I've never seen it

-------------
If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe




Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: January 13, 2012 at 4:51 PM
I'm on my mobile device too I'll post it when I get to a pc.

-------------
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert




Posted By: ieetgluu
Date Posted: January 14, 2012 at 1:35 PM

Ive got some spare 6amp rectifier diodes, one of these should work, right?

Thanks





Posted By: ieetgluu
Date Posted: January 14, 2012 at 1:45 PM

chev104275 wrote:

If there the same as the kia sorento you need to tie that wire with you're vipers unlock wire through a diode band facing remote start system. To test it put you're black lead to ground and you're red lead to the suspect wire. There should be 12v at rest then when you turn the key in the drivers door to unlock 2 times that wire should show ground for a second. I do this to all the newer kias because of that problem

Im a bit confused here after re-reading. chev, in your first response you mention that I need to tie "that" wire into the viper unlock wire. I assume "that" wire is the lock detection wire I had mentioned.   (continued on next post) 





Posted By: ieetgluu
Date Posted: January 14, 2012 at 1:49 PM

chev104275 wrote:

I just looked up the wiring for both the kia and the Hyundai.it shows the same wiring they both mention that lock detection wire I've never used it and never had an issue. I've done dozens of the new sorentos just using the yellow/black in the back of the fuse box diode isolated from the unlock wire like I said in my above post. If you look in the pictorials I have one for the sorento

Then you mention in your next response that youve never used the lock detection wire and never have an issue. You then talk about some yellow/black wire that you diode isolate from the unlock wire. Im thrown off. What is the yellow/black wire you mention? And the door sticker says made by Kia motors which explains a bit  :)

And as for the 'pictorial', where would that be?

Thanks for helping me figure this out.





Posted By: chev104275
Date Posted: January 14, 2012 at 3:03 PM
Ok sorry I've never used the gray lock detection wire you and tedmond refered to. The yellow/black wire I was talking about controls the drivers door unlock and wakes the locks up. Its in the middle connector in the back of the fuse box pin 2 take a wire through a diode band facing remote start and connect it from the gray/black unlock wire to the yellow/black and that takes care of locks . I get both locks and factory alarm disarm in the front of the fuse box bottom left connector. I just finished 2 this morning. Did them both this way.    As far as the pictoral go back to the main forum screen right above the link to this one there is one that says pictorals

-------------
If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe




Posted By: ieetgluu
Date Posted: January 15, 2012 at 8:33 AM
Ok thanks, I found the pictorial too. So I need to join the current unlock connection(viper(blue or green) to vehicle(gray/black)) with that yellow/black via diode. Will this make the viper fob still unlock all doors? And do I need to set the unlock to double pulse to simulate the key turning twice?




Posted By: chev104275
Date Posted: January 15, 2012 at 9:13 AM
Yes it will unlock all the doors I dont set to double pulse. I thought the same thing but for some reason it works. If you lock the doors then take that yellow/black wire and touch it to ground once it will unlock the drivers door. The blue should be your unlock from the viper. So use the blue to the gray/black and from there to the yellow/black and you should be good

-------------
If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe




Posted By: ieetgluu
Date Posted: January 15, 2012 at 10:34 AM
Awesome, thank you again. I think I had the polarities of the viper lock wires wrong as I had to switch them after installation. Its funny how the pics in your pictorial are almost identical to the Sante Fe. I didnt know at the time of installation that the ignition wires were where you showed them on the fuse box. I figured some of them were there, but was thrown off by them not all being together on one harness like they come off of the ignition switch itself. Instead I struggled to tie into the wires that came off of the ignition switch harness near the center of the car. They seem to go up into the center dash from there... what a pain it was, literally.




Posted By: chev104275
Date Posted: January 15, 2012 at 10:45 AM
The sorento with keys has the ingition in the column not the dash so even going to the switch isnt bad. Switch the polarities ? They should be negitive

-------------
If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe




Posted By: ieetgluu
Date Posted: January 16, 2012 at 7:48 AM
I had glanced at the install .pdf and its reads blue: (+)Lock (-)Unlock Output    green:  (-)Lock (+)Unlock Output. I disregarded the polarity and wired blue to lock, green to unlock for some reason, only to find the buttons doing the opposite of there function, thats all




Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: January 16, 2012 at 9:05 AM
the unit has flip flop polarity locks. reverse the wires, put a diode inline and you should be fine.

-------------
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert




Posted By: ieetgluu
Date Posted: January 16, 2012 at 9:56 AM

yes, i just reversed the wires and all was well.





Posted By: ieetgluu
Date Posted: January 16, 2012 at 3:25 PM
why would the locks need a diode inline? I have not done so on the 3 vehicles Ive put a 5101 into




Posted By: chev104275
Date Posted: January 16, 2012 at 3:28 PM
Sorry I forgot the 5101 has flip flop locks diodes are to keep only the ground pulse from getting to the truck

Did you finish the install ?

-------------
If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe




Posted By: ieetgluu
Date Posted: January 16, 2012 at 3:33 PM
So the Sante Fe needs a diode to the yellow/black and to each lock/unlock wire? And perhaps you could explain flip flop locks for me 




Posted By: offroadzj
Date Posted: January 16, 2012 at 4:12 PM
By connecting them Blue as unlock and Green as lock they are (-) pulse. But by flip flopping them (green as unlock; blue as lock) they become (+) pulse.

-------------
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205




Posted By: ieetgluu
Date Posted: January 16, 2012 at 4:31 PM
they "become"?  They change in terms or what the viper sends out for a pulse?




Posted By: ieetgluu
Date Posted: January 16, 2012 at 5:59 PM

ieetgluu wrote:

they "become"?  They change in terms or what the viper sends out for a pulse?

in terms of*





Posted By: offroadzj
Date Posted: January 16, 2012 at 7:43 PM
they don't really change per say. But if you have it hooked up as negative locks (blue to unlock; green to lock) when you send an unlock signal it will send a (-) pulse to the blue wire and a (+) pulse to the green wire. And visa versa. On some vehicles thats not a big deal as the non-used wire will have a + resting signal anyways. However on some cars it can create an issue... which is why its better to use diodes.

-------------
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205




Posted By: ieetgluu
Date Posted: January 16, 2012 at 8:03 PM
Oh ok. So the diodes would have to be placed band facing r/s on the (-)unlock and band facing vehicle on (+)lock? I didnt know that the band direction depends on pulse polarity until chev indicated the diode direction on that yellow/black and I then looked at the diode diagrams.




Posted By: ieetgluu
Date Posted: January 16, 2012 at 8:06 PM

ieetgluu wrote:

Oh ok. So the diodes would have to be placed band facing r/s on the (-)unlock and band facing vehicle on (+)lock?

And chev, from your experience do you think the kia/hyundai is a candidate for needing the dioded lock wires?

Thanks guys, big help





Posted By: offroadzj
Date Posted: January 16, 2012 at 8:09 PM
you will put both bands towards the r/s unit. That will prevent the (+) signal from being sent to the factory wire.

-------------
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205




Posted By: ieetgluu
Date Posted: January 16, 2012 at 8:13 PM
ok, i just went back and re-read your explaination. I get it now




Posted By: chev104275
Date Posted: January 17, 2012 at 9:37 AM
Yes I use diodes on any of the systems with flip flip locks if nothing else its peace of mind

-------------
If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe




Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: January 17, 2012 at 10:17 AM
chev104275 wrote:

Yes I use diodes on any of the systems with flip flip locks if nothing else its peace of mind


agreed. heres the doorlock diagram i was talking about.

https://directechs.com/tech_docs/Document26208-1.pdf

ive been using the relay method and it works for me. if i could avoid the relay, the install would be much cleaner.

-------------
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert




Posted By: chev104275
Date Posted: January 17, 2012 at 1:43 PM
Thanks for the link but I'm not a directed dealer so I can't see it


-------------
If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe




Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: January 17, 2012 at 4:08 PM
just C/P into the browser you should be able to see it.

-------------
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert




Posted By: offroadzj
Date Posted: January 17, 2012 at 4:11 PM
I just tried Ted and it won't work for me either. I think directechs automatically locks it out if you are not a directed dealer.

-------------
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205




Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: January 17, 2012 at 4:12 PM
uploading right now.

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/downloads.asp?srch=all&term=tech+tip+1300

-------------
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert




Posted By: ieetgluu
Date Posted: January 18, 2012 at 9:04 AM
Well I can see why you would like to avoid this by using the yellow/black. It would be a bit easier. Question is, if Directed supplies this info specifically for kia/hyundai losks, are there adverse effects if you use thedioded  yellow/black instead?




Posted By: chev104275
Date Posted: January 18, 2012 at 12:13 PM
I can't answer that as I've never done them the other way but I have about 40 sorentos out there done like this and I havnt had 1 comeback yet with an issue. Also I do the souls, optimas, sportage all the same way

-------------
If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe




Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: January 18, 2012 at 12:28 PM
i just follow diagrams to a "T" If i can use diodes i rather do that, than put a relay in place for the same purpose.

-------------
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert




Posted By: chev104275
Date Posted: January 18, 2012 at 1:17 PM
I agree makes for a cleaner install. I didn't have a diagram when I started doing these except for the factory one so I went from that

-------------
If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe




Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: January 18, 2012 at 4:48 PM
if it doesnt cause you problems i think i will try that next time.

so unlock diode isolate to disarm and keysense wire?
can you pm a diagram so i know what you mean?

thanks

-------------
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert




Posted By: ieetgluu
Date Posted: February 15, 2012 at 9:34 PM
So I finaly got a chance today to pull the fuse box on the Sante Fe and the only yellow/black wire I found was not in the middle plug, nor did it ground when the key was turned twice. It was in the top/right plug(when looking at the front of the fuse box) and also had a red wire in the same spot.  Could the wire be a different color on the hyundai?




Posted By: chev104275
Date Posted: February 16, 2012 at 8:37 AM
unfortunately I haven't done a sante fe so I can't answer that I've done all kias

-------------
If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe




Posted By: ieetgluu
Date Posted: February 16, 2012 at 9:00 AM

Its weird. The sorento pictorial yields the same exact everything in comparison to the sante fe. but like i said, the only yellow black was in a different plug, and the only time it seemed to be grounded is when the plugs on the front of the fuse box were disconnected. So, i dioded the lock wires and left it be. the relative who owns the vehicle doesnt care about the factory alarm as its almost useless so he'll put the factory fob away and use only the viper fob for lock/unlock. this will leave the alarm out of the situation and maintain control of the locks. If i had the time i would have tested all wires in the 'middle' plug to see if the wire color was different but maybe on the same pin, but that didnt happen.

After the initial install, I would have left the car be, but he was having problems with the viper not always unlocking, but it would always lock. Seemed to happen when it sat for a while or when cold,as he stated, although the issue was never duplicated for me. Im hoping the issue had to due with the scotch locks used to tie into the lock wires, so when i dioded them i was sure to solder them this time around. my fingers are crossed. atleast everything else works thus far. Sucks that my 03 Sierra and 06 Civic 5101 installs went fine(aside from the bypass programming issue on the civic) and this one has issues.





Posted By: ieetgluu
Date Posted: February 19, 2012 at 10:50 AM
So i just compared wiring charts on the hyundai and kia, something i should have done long ago. They both call for the yellow/black drivers unlock wire, but, the plug and pin locations are different. So I guess i had found the correct wire, and didnt use it. I also still have the disarm wire connected. Could this have something to do with the unlock not always working, and should i disconnect it after connecting to the yellow/black?  Thanks guys




Posted By: buddholly
Date Posted: February 22, 2012 at 1:32 PM

Heres a super easy way to do it, no relays or diodes. 

Lock to brn/ogn

disarm to gray (set to double pulse)

unlock to pink (set to double pulse)

All wires are in the brown connector in the driver kick.



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Posted By: buddholly
Date Posted: February 22, 2012 at 1:33 PM
If your locks are still falling asleep after that, run keysense wire.

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Posted By: ieetgluu
Date Posted: February 22, 2012 at 4:11 PM
Thanks, but they seem to be great now. The hyundai's driver unlock yellow/black wire ended up being behind the fuse box in the BCM. It was the missing link that I needed.




Posted By: ieetgluu
Date Posted: February 22, 2012 at 4:13 PM
And, with using that wire, the locks automatically became progressive through the viper.





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