door lock wire color on 2009 mazda5

Im doing a remote start and keyless entry on a 2009 Mazda5. I think the wiring is different from year to year and I'm finding info that tells me to tap the Blue wire in the driver kick panel. I want to be sure this is the right info since the factory service manual I have does not even show a blue wire in the system. I also bought a DEI 451m module to interface with the factory setup, so if anyone could verify that connection I would really appreciate it. Oh and yes I do have a transponder bypass as well. Thanks in advance.

From what I found..the blue wire is the lock/unlock wire in the driver kick panel or behind glovebox at BCM.

https://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/vehiclewiringdiagrams.asp

Yes, that's where I got my info from. I just wanted someone who knows for sure to confirm it. I found conflicting information out there and want to be sure. Also do I hook up my relays to go to ground once activated from the alarm brain? I know I need a 1000k resistor on the unlock wire.

Yes you will need relays if the R/S only has a 2 wire lock output, WHITE/ black and BROWN / black, don't use and tape up.
Violet and violet/black to a good ground.
Blue/black, wire your resistor in line then join to GREEN/ black and then to the blue wire.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Looks like I was on the right path then. Howie, you have earned your gold status in my book! I have 2 other questions, if you dont mind.

My Python 533 has a wire for a -200mA 2nd unlock output. Do I need this to unlock all the doors at once or can this be accomplished with programming the module for 2, instead of 1, unlocking pulses on the relays? Its confusing to me because, if so, I dont see a point for the second wire in the first place.

Question 2 is they show a button attached to a (-) remote start activation input wire. It says I need 1 ground pulse on this wire for the remote start to activate or deactivate. Should I hook this up to the -200mA status output wire that supplies the pulse when the remote start process begins? I am confused because this would be hooking up wires from the same unit that I would think should be wired internally.

Thanks again, I'm going to get started on this perhaps tomorrow and I cant wait!

Thanks but I've been a Platinum member twice before but they keep demoting me because I've no patience with morons who won't listen/think they know it all without testing.

1) The second wire is for priority unlock. i.e. driver's door initially, then the others only if you activate 2nd unlock.
You will have to slightly mod your 451 but here's how:-9A9_multiplex_priority_unlock.bmp
Note you are going to have to mod the 451. One, either the violet or violet/black (the lock side ) goes to ground, the other side goes to 12v+ constant.

2) If the wire you are referring to is BLACK/ white, ground it through the switch with an auto, or straight to your reverse light feed.
If manual to the parking brake switch.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Well thats not fair to you at all. My 5 year old learned from other kids that crying will you get you what you want, and get other people in trouble, so I guess that how some people still try to get through life. Thanks for your help on this, the manual for this thing really stinks, very vague and there isn't any tech support from DEI on it either. Im an electrician by trade, and this is my 3rd alarm install so its pretty humbling to not know exactly what I'm doing this time around.

As for the priority unlocking, I dont want it that way if possible. I want them all to unlock since its a family car. Frankly, I think its a stupid option in the first place. All the doors should open, if you want only the one door, and the remote and key are in your hand, use the key.... I thought thats what was the 2 pulses on the unlock wire was for. Is that an option for another type of system? Im attaching a scan of the manual, its file Python533.2 Item 2-7

The other wire I was asking about is WHITE/ Blue. Its not the neutral safety switch. I scanned this as well, file Python533.1 wire H1/10

Lastly, the PKALL transponder unit needs a Pink wire to +12v Ignition, is there a reason I cant take it from the 4 pin bus connector at the Ignition switch where I'm tapping the TX and RX wires? It says N.C. in the PKALL manual for that pin, which I take to mean no connection, but it seems a logical place to feed it from. I scanned that one as PKALL.

Thanks again for all your help in this install. Is there a standard wiring code for alarms BTW? That might help me figure some of this out on my own.

Thinking about it, I believe that WHITE/ blue is just a way to start the sequence without the remote. Consider that one solved :)

Then ignore the second unlock wire, just leave it as was before.
Blame the US for priority unlocking, the Scandinavians for daytime running lights and the Germans for immobilisers!
Don't use the WHITE/ blue as you thought.
Better to take from the main ignition 1 wire, otherwise you might get
data related problems.
By the way, with regards to switches and relays, NC usually means normally closed such as 30 and 87a so be very careful there.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Ok then I will just hook up the door locks as normal and change the programming for 2 pulses. I will also take the pink from the PKALL and take it to the regular ignition wire. I figured it might cause some issues, glad I asked! As for the WHITE/ blue, I guess I will get a momentary switch eventually so I can hook it up. I dont think I will use it ever, it may be useful for testing the system if I ever need to.

I know about the NC for relays and switches. In that diagram though, I'm pretty sure its referring to wire connections only. Thats why I assume its No Connection in that instance and why they seem to be steering you from taking power from that source. Thanks again, you have been incredibly helpful and I'll let you know the results. FWIW I will be posting this as a DIY over at the Mazda5 Forum once its done.

You've lost me there...why double pulse?
And I'm always prepared to help those who listen, do and learn.
I'm not here to hold anyone's hand and do it for them, especially not from 3000+ miles away!

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Hmm seems we got a little out of sync, lets start from the beginning.

The WHITE/ Blue wire for "remote start activation input". This was the first page I scanned and wire H 1/10 in the installation manual. I have come to believe this is to trigger the remote starter manually from a switch under the dash. I just need to connect this one through a momentary switch to ground and when I press it once, it will begin the remote start sequence. Is this correct?

Priority locking:
I dont want to have priority locking if possible. I want them all to open at once. According to Item 2-7 of the programming options page, I can select if the blue unlock wire does 1 or 2 pulses. Unless I'm not reading it right, I take this to mean it will be as if I hit the unlock button twice and it will unlock all the doors with only one press of the remote control.

I know the alarm has a second unlock output but I'm really at a loss to understand why. Priority unlocking needs 2 presses to open all doors, if I just hit my remote button twice, wont this be the same thing? Why is there a second output at all? I clearly must be missing something here.

Sorry about the delay, been watching telly, switching between a British drama series, a top soccer game and believe it or not the Big Bang Theory, lordy don't you love HD satellite +HD Tivo?
Right you are absolutely correct about the WHITE/ blue wire, ignore it.
Ignore priority unlock, it's for paranoid housewives or van security, on Ford (UK) Transits and MB/Dodge Sprinters, it first unlocks the front only leaving the cargo area secure. Don't bother to program for it, it won't make any difference programming double pulse unless you set it up as per my diagram. The second lock output will only work if you set it up as per that diagram.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

No worries about the wait. I had to winterize my motorcycle and it was sunny and 60 degrees here in NYC! I also threw in the new Ohlins shock while I was at it. Therefore, I think this will have to wait until January anyway. Yes I do love all the tech for watching TV these days. My dvr is full of Motogp, F1 and 50 episodes of top gear. The American version is garbage and i'm not even sure its still on. I was in London in 2005 and one highlight was getting to watch it uncensored and in person so to speak. I'd love to go back, one day soon I hope.

I think I have all my connections in order now, if anything pops up I'll let you know but I think it should be smooth from here. The only hitch I might have will be trying to hook up the rear defroster option. This BCM business is a pain! If it doesn't go easy I may just skip it. Thanks for being patient with me and I really appreciate the prompt replies too. Enjoy your holidays.

Joel

Same weather here, this time last year I was under a foot of snow! From my point of view a happy Chanuka to you too.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Happy Hanukkah to you as well, I guess Joel was a tip-off? Happy New Year as well!

Yup, my last name is Messias, far as I know I'm the only Ashkenazi with that name. It comes from Russia, all the others in England were of Dutch Sephardi origin. I've been pestered in a nice way by the Sephardis since my Barmitzvah, why are you having it in an Ashkenazi Synagogue, etc.
Heck I lived in Florida in the early 80s, did Spanish back in school in England and they all thought I was from Columbia or Venezuela!

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Greetings! I finally started the starter install, its not complete but it does remote start! I have a question, when I test for the door lock wire, how should I test it? Continuity to ground and hit the lock button? Wasn't sure about that part. Thanks for all your help so far, I had doubts lol

If you're not sure if you have the correct wire, it's better to ground through a bulb test light such as the Snap-On unit.
Assuming you've installed the 451 and everything is powered up including the R/S and the 451 to ground. Make a temporary connection to the suspect wire.
Close all but the driver door, throw over the striker catch at the back of the door so the car thinks the door is closed.
Taking your grounding lead or test light, one end to ground first touch it to the lock wire at the R/S. That should lock the car, the touch it to the unlock wire at the R/S. This should unlock it.
Solder up your connection.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I'm sure I have the right wire, I just wanted to be a pro and test first :) I put a multimeter to it and checked for continuity to ground when I hit the lock button, it didn't read anything. I didn't want to ground the wire in case it was something with the com bus and it would have shorted out. I did all the wiring on the drivers side and now when I go to the passenger side to finish up, I wanted to know how to test it properly. Should be cake from here though. I was surprised it started after I programmed the PKALL, they didn't mention that in the instructions!

Got the locks working today. I had to reverse the wires though, the diode went on the green, not the blue. I can't understand because its the reverse of what I thought was right. It works now so I wont stress out about it. Now for the kicker, my door pin works backwards. I hooked the green on the R/S to the blue/black at the driver kick and it only arms with the door open. The wire should be a (-) N.C. But its not, I get voltage with the door closed. tomorrow I'm going to pull the switch on the rear door to check the color. Is it possible the color code is wrong?

Ford and Mazda both suffer this problem, there might be a note (NC door triggers) in your programming, otherwise look it up in the Manuals/Downloads section. I posted it (the fix) a couple of weeks ago.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Ford tectip 1921 and someone else entered it before me!
Mazda 2 = Ford Fiesta
Mazda 3 = Ford Focus
Mazda 6 = Ford Mondeo (Europe), Edge (US).

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

As far as I know, my car doesn't work the same as that. I think the 2008-2010 use a simplified system. I got my info from Bulldog security, the 2006-7 list the individual wire colors for each door and the 2008-10 list only one color and no notes about diodes.

Very simple, meter that trigger if when door is shut it should either read 12v+ or open circuit.
When door is opened 0v.
That's the normal method NC closed,ground on open.
If you have the reverse, i.e. ground on closed then that tech tip is for you.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I just checked it out on Directwire, that tech tip is the only way to go.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I tested it and I got 12v with the door open and .2v with the door closed. I guess I qualify for the tech tip. Thats unfortunate though because they dont list the other colors for the other doors. The 2007 5 has the same color for the driver door so I will see if the color code matches for the rest. It seems whenever I try to do this kind of stuff, I run into a problem no one knows about or I got bad info somewhere. If I knew I was going to have this much trouble, I could have gotten a DB-ALL instead. DEI said I needed a programmer to use it though so I didn't go for it. I even asked them what they recommended on live chat and I got zero help. I'm off to go finish this thing up, wish me luck!

any bypass would have done the same. only some mazda models use data.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

I punked out and went to an installer for the trigger pins. Im very ashamed but a third day of laying outside in the cold, in the street, was not appealing anymore. I paid $60 and he ran the siren for me, door pin, hatch pin, and hood pin. I was surprised to find he hooked the door trigger to the domelight wire. If I knew I could have done that, I would have done it myself. Its all back together and works great. My only question now is that it locks passively but I dont get confirmation on the 2 way remote, is that normal? It shows it still unlocked even though it obviously is until I hit the lock button myself.

i was going to suggest domelight, but its a poor way of doing triggers on the newer vehicles.

it works, and its NOT wrong. just you dont get instant triggers. there is a slight delay, and it can cause false alarms on some cars.


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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

It's also about knowing the vehicle, against Ted's advice, I have no problems doing this on late Toyotas and some Hondas, if doing the domelight works for you fine. It certainly DOESN'T work on MkI Focus but does on the MkII (we've had 2.5 distinct Focus shapes in Europe, you've had one).
You might have taught us something here.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

So far it works perfectly. The trigger is instant, no delays that Ive noticed. Too soon to tell about false alarms though. The guy got his info from DEI directly, he spoke with them on the phone and that's what they told him. I'm not using the domelight supervision feature on the alarm since the car does it on its own when unlocked, maybe that has something to do with it? Howie, like I said, everything I do involves something new that people didn't know before. I just wish I wasn't always the test dummy! Oh and we now have the 2nd Focus here currently, not the RS of course, you guys get all the good stuff.

Now for some general alarm questions:
1. When it passively locks, I don't get notification on the remote that it locked, is this normal?
2. If a zone is open, the remote wont tell me which one, is this normal?
3. When I turn off the ignition, it begins the arming sequence even if I dont open the door, is that normal? and is this probably because of the Domelight door pin hookup? I think I just answered my own question though......

as howie suggested, it works great for most vehicles, and select models from certain makes. I prefer using door triggers, but every installer is different, and there is no right or wrong. Simply preference.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

General rule,if it has domelight supervision initially, don't bother.
This thing about domelights, try it on an initial model Focus (talking about the UK models here), 1998-2005, the dome lights stayed on for 1 minute ex factory AFTER locking and you HAD to go to the door triggers.
Toyotas as an example, here the dome light dumps immediately the vehicle locks and thus I've always gone to the dome light. Never a false alarm.
Now normally, especially on DEI, it takes 10 seconds after arming for the door triggers to come on line, known as settle time.
If your dome light extinguishes in less than 10 seconds after lock and arm, you're O.K.
05 On, with the Focus we went to the dome light BUT we had to diode the 12v+ feed, that might be your only problem. Is the Mazda 3 or 5 the Focus?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

It is a 5. So I might need to diode the trigger and then it won't start arming without opening the door?

No the diode is only to prevent false alarms when the doors lock and you get a spike when the light shuts down.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Ok how about my first 2 questions?

OK, one comment. I never ever use passive lock and arm, stupid and IMO dangerous.
So without the experience I can't answer the question.
Except I can guess.
It's because you've gone to the domelight which goes through a processor rather than directly from a door pin, it's giving the alarm the wrong info.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I guess I'm stupid and dangerous then. I cant even begin to tell you how many times, with this car, Ive gotten in my home and said to myself, is the car locked? Then I venture back out with my remote held to my head until I'm practically next to it anyway because the factory range is pathetic. I've had passive arm and lock on all my cars since 1993 and locked myself out the second week after installing it. It has not happened since. Some people shouldn't have passive locking. I like to walk away from my cars, with my keys, and not worry about leaving it open all night.

It looks like the spring project will be to remove the domelight trigger and find the door pins. I dont like that it will set when I haven't gotten out of the car. I like it even less the remote wont confirm it. I'll have more patience then so its ok for now.

One last question, whats the deal with the techtip you linked me to and this diagram I found on another site? This one is for my car but is using a - trigger. The DEI one uses a +. How can they both work?


Why is this happening to me?! lol Youre all being very patient and helpful with me, I appreciate that more than you can imagine. Without the guidance I got here, I couldn't have done any of this and for that I'm grateful!

Not you I make my customers sign waivers if they wan't it.
I earned lots of money in the 80s doing call-outs to rescue fools who had locked themselves out of their vehicles, armed with my special universal key, a.k.a. a hammer, hence the waivers.
Only seen the DEI tech tip, not properly looked but I imagine it's the way they set up their diodes hence the polarity difference, doesn't matter, just use the pos trigger wire.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

hammer...lol the best tool for getting into locked cars

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Update: I do get a confirmation of passive locking on the remote, sometimes.....I called DEI and they said it will confirm if the 2 units are talking to each other at that moment. I usually get it when I leave the car normally but not if I unlock it and then let it lock again without entering. I am surprised it doesn't tell me which zone is open when I arm it though, seems like a no brainer for a cool feature.