python 592, 97 jeep grand cherokee

Hello i have been reading some topics lately and decided to join to forum.I will be installing a Python 592 system on a 1997 jeep grand cherokee with a factory alarm.I have a working key fob for the jeep and factory alarm.My first question is do i need anything else to make it work?Im going to do the remote starter and shock sensor first,then add additional componets later.Is there anything else i need to get before i can start to install the alarm the way it is out of the box?Thanks for any help in advance i really appreciate it.

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-= Michael Ingram =-

hi,
you'll need to find a DEI 455t, it will help with the door lock and factory alarm interfacing. otherwise you'll be going into both doors to do the locks.
mark

Is it a triangular head key or round head key? Gray head or black head? I think you are ok with the 97, but there is a possibility you have an immobilizer system that you will need an additional bypass for. But again, I don't think the 97's had it.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

The key is like the shape of a half of a stop sign and it is black.

I dont mind going into the door as they are already mostly taken apart for a fiber glass speaker enclosure im working on.

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-= Michael Ingram =-

Ok, then no immobilizer bypass is needed. Honestly, you are better off getting the door lock module. Even if you don't mind doing the extra work, you will have to get 2 relays at the very least (or a 451m door lock relay) which will probably run you $20 or more. Then you will have to cut your factory lock / unlock wires and wire them reverse polarity. The only downside to the module is it can be hard to find.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

I will look for the 455t and see what i can come up with.

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-= Michael Ingram =-

If i were to get the 451m relay would i need one for each door or just 1 will lock/unlock all doors?I found one for $9.50 free shipping.I am looking for the 455t but it seems they are discontinued.Did they not release a different model of that unit or what?Those of us with the jeeps that need the 455t are out of luck...?


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-= Michael Ingram =-

Yea, the 455T's can be a pain to find. You can use a 455TW but they are almost as hard to find. You will only need 1 451M for each front door. The front pass. door will work all pass. doors. Does your Jeep have a factory alarm? If so, you will basically lose the alarm with the hardwiring setup... and you will have to make sure to not use your factory remote anymore or it will set off the alarm when you start it.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Yea it has factory alarm on it.This python alarm dont have lock relays built in it?figured it would for the price of it but what can i do now ya know lol.I am pretty sure i can get the main stuff hooked up on the alarm.I may have problems with reversing polarity and remote start...i can do the siren,main power wires,led, stuff like that for sure.I can def use a bit of help.I will start on it tomorrow when i get some free time and go ahead and order the lock relays.I will let you know on progress or any problems.Thanks very much for the help so far.

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-= Michael Ingram =-

If you search on this site under the relay section you can find the reverse polarity (aka 5-wire) wire diagram that will show you exactly how to wire it. The remote start is not that difficult. Its only a few more connections than the alarm... and if you are doing starter kill on the alarm, then its even less connections. The hardest connection on the remote start is the tach wire... which you will have to run under the hood and connect to the odd colored wire off any of the injectors.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Ok i found that article.If i get relays like those it shows in the 5 wire diagram is that all ill need to get my doors to lock/unlock?What would be a good place to get them from?

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-= Michael Ingram =-

The 451mon relays are the easiest as they are already prewired. You will need one dor the driver side and one for the pass. Side.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Go with the 451M x 2 - you can get them off Amazon for $10 each. If you want to wire them up an save yourself the $20 then this may help:

https://www.bulldogsecurity.com/diagrams/extrainfo/diagrams/14301_GRAND-CHEROKEE_JEEP%20GRAND%20CHEROKEE%20LOCKS.pdf

Ok fellas i have ordered the 2 451m pre wired relays.I will let you guys know when i get them.Untill then i am going to go ahead and wire all the basics up and get the brain mounted.Thanks for the help ill stop back if i run into something i need to pick your brains about.thanks again.

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-= Michael Ingram =-

Hey guys i got the 451m relays but yesterday got a call from a local place that had a dei455t in the backroom they said i could have for 20 bucks.Should i just use the 455t instead of the 451m's?Im not really good at hooking up alarms i just know the basics.Im actually have trouble finding wires.In the wiring diagram it shows a pink/black wire in the ignition harness and there is no pink and black wire there,only black,or 2 solid pink wires.I gave up after running into that problem and havent started back yet.

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-= Michael Ingram =-

since the 455T is available, i'd say get it. the instructions for it are in the downloads section here if they aren't in the package. should be able to test the unit in vehicle..requires power, ground, and the data wires. the inputs would just be needed to be connected to ground momentarily.

Ok i got the 455t.Would anyone mind telling me what all wires on the python 592 i will be wiring up and where they go to?Im just finding multiple wires in the same area that the wiring diagram says the wire should be,there 2 or 3 wires thats blue and red in the locations its giving me.Very confusing.


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-= Michael Ingram =-

That is very common. You have to use your DMM to test out the wires til you find the correct one.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Can you explain what i should be looking for with the dmm?Like volts or ohms or ?I have a Dmm just never used it before.

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-= Michael Ingram =-

It all depends on what you are testing.
12v constant - (+) Voltage at all times
Ignition - (+) Voltage with key turned on
Accessory - (+) Voltage with key turned on, but drops during cranking
Starter - (+) Voltage when cranking
Parking lights (+) - (+) Voltage with parking lights on
Parking lights (-) - Ground with parking lights on (connect red lead to known 12v source, connect ground lead to wire being tested)
Brake Wire - (+) Voltage when brake pedal is pressed
Lock/unlock - Ground when lock/unlock button is pressed (red lead to known 12v source, ground lead to wire being tested)
Tach - AC Voltage fluctuating with RPM
Hood Pin - most likely needs to be added on that car.

If this is your first time ever using a DMM you may really want to think about having this starter done by a professional. If you don't know what to test for and you connect to the wrong wire you can do a lot of damage to the vehicle. I'm all about trying things to learn, but I would suggest starting on something a little simpler than a remote starter.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Hey i know what you mean lol i am really dreading trying this by my self.Im am going to have to think about this because i dont want to mess anything up i might just have it installed.

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-= Michael Ingram =-

If you were local to me I'd do it for you for pretty cheap.. but that would be a pretty far drive to just get a starter put in... lol. Maybe someone on here is local to you and may be able to give you a hand. Unfortunately you may find that most shops will be hesitant over putting anything but their own equipment in for liability reasons.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

I have the main alarm unit working.I can arm and disarm via remote.will pick up the 455t for the locks.

I have a couple questions.
How do i make the lights flash with the alarm?
On python 592 main harness H1 it has a WHITE/ brown wire for-parking light isolation wire /pin 87a of onboard relay.
There is also on harness H1-white wire-parking light output.
Does both of these get hooked up or just 1?I know 1 or both should be hooked up to Blue/Red + - left of steering column or light switch.

On the remote start harness H3/4 violet -car side of starter kill,what does this mean and where do i hook it up at?
Same question H3/5 green - key side of starter kill,what does it mean by key side and where do i hook it up at?

I think i pretty much have the alarm itself figured out,im working on the remote start now but had these questions before i got to into it.Thanks!

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-= Michael Ingram =-

To make the lights flash connect the white parking light output and connect it to the parking light wire in the vehicle. Use the jumper on the unit to set the polarity of the output.

The violet wire goes to the car side of the cut starter wire. The green wire will go to the ignition side.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

About the cut starter wire,thats what is confusing me i dont know the difference between the ignition side and car side.Is it 1 wire and i wire into it at different points or....?

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-= Michael Ingram =-

The starter wire is a single wire. You will physically cut that wire and connect the green wire to the side of the wire coming off the physical ignition switch and the purple goes to the starter side of the wire.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Ok i got the 2 wires hooked up to the starter wire on the right ends.

This is what i have hooked up so far please correct me if im wrong.
H1/2 Red 12v+ constant , hooked to pink/BLACK/ ign switch harness
h1/3 Brown + siren output,hooked to + on siren
h1/5 Black chasis ground,grounded to bare metal
h1/11 white parking light output,hooked to blue/red (+) light switch

H2/17 Brown + brake shutdown

H3/1 PInk (+) ignition 1 input/output,hooked to dark blue/grey ign switch harness
H3/2 RED / White (+) Fused ignition 2/flex relay input 87,hooked to RED / black ign switch harness
H3/3 Orange (+) accessory output,hooked to ORANGE / black ign switch harness
H3/4 Violet (+) starter output (car side of starter kill),hooked to the car side of yellow starter wire in ign switch harness
H3/5 Green (+) starter input (key side of starter kill),hooked to key side of yellow starter wire in ign switch harness

Thats all the wires i have hooked up untill i get the dei455t hooked up which seems pretty simple.What am i missing or what looks wrong to you?The alarm is a python 592 its the same as the viper 5902 incase you dont mind double checking my wiring,the vehicle is a 1997 jeep grand cherokee with the black key.It has the factory alarm on it and i have a working Chrysler key fob if it matters.


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-= Michael Ingram =-

What other wires on the remote start harness H3 python 592 do i need hooked up?

I got the arm setting and un setting,parking lights working when setting and un setting,the siren working,shock sensor adjusted,dei455t will take care of the locks,i have some wires hooked up from the remote start harness,but im unsure where the other go?

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-= Michael Ingram =-

As for the Main harness on the 592 (H3)
Red, RED / White, and RED / Black all go to the RED / White 12v Constant wire
Pink goes to the Dark Blue/Gray Ignition wire
Pink/White goes to the RED / Black 2nd Accessory wire
**Make sure to change the flex relay programming option in the menu from 2nd ignition to 2nd accessory
Orange goes to BLACK/ Orange Accessory wire
Then cut your factory starter wire (Yellow)
Purple goes to the starter / vehicle side of the cut starter wire
Green goes to the key switch side of the cut starter wire
Pink/Black has no connection

Do you have an install manual for it? The install manual should tell you exactly what each wire is for.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Ok i got those wires hooked up.I hit the remote start button and it says on the remote "remote start un available" but after a few seconds the alarm box start clicking and the parking lights flash.I have the toggle switch set to "on".Should it be working or is there something else i have to do?

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-= Michael Ingram =-

Do you have it programmed for automatic? How many times are the lights flashing? Also make sure your hood is closed (if you connected a hood pin)

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Ok i think i know it isnt starting because i have to change theflex relay from 2nd ignition to 2nd accessory and i have to change transmission to automatic.I cant really get into those features without the door pin hooked up because its saying to open the door turn on the ignition turn off the ignition then press and hold the control button untill the number of chirps confirms the menu number you want.is that correct?


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-= Michael Ingram =-

You can simply temporarily ground the green (-) door pin wire to duplicate the door being open. Then it will allow you to go through the programming.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Ok i did that and programmed.Now im getting 8 flashes from the parking lights when i try to remote start,it means the neutral safety switch has no ground or is off,i have it plugged in,i flipped the switch both ways and i get the same error message.It even says on the remote "toggle switch off" when i try to remote start.any ideas?


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-= Michael Ingram =-

ohhhh i see on the H2 harness neutral safety input (-) do i just need to ground that wire?

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-= Michael Ingram =-

Yea man i hooked that wire up and it tried to start,dang battery was dead though from fooling in it all night in the cold lol.It did start to crank though.I cant believe this my first time ever hooking a remote start up i appreciate the help so much man i truly appreciate it.Now i just have to put the 455t in and clean up everything sweeeeet.Saved me atleast $150 bucks.Thanks again very much!

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-= Michael Ingram =-

Ok on this 455t i just wire the door lock wires up to the door lock wires on the alarm cpu correct?then i plug the data cable into the data port of the vehicle.Do i need to hook to door trigger wire up from the cpu to the door trigger wire of the vehicle or does the 455t control that as well?

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-= Michael Ingram =-

Not sure if you have it, but here is the install manual for the 455T:
https://www.directeddealers.com/manuals/ig/accessories/N455T_04-98.pdf

Red goes to constant 12v (can connect to main 12v wire for remote start/alarm.. but make sure its fused)

Black goes to ground

Blue/Black goes to the Blue (-)200ma status output of the remote start/alarm

Blue goes to the Blue (-) unlock wire from the remote start/alarm

Blue/White - no connection unless you want driver priority unlocking (unlocks driver door first, then all other doors on a second press of the unlock button)

Green goes to the Gree (-) lock wire from the remote start/alarm

BLACK/ White - no connection.

Violet/Brown goes to the Violet/Brown(+) CCD bus at the diag connector

WHITE/ Black goes to the WHITE/ Black (-) CCD bus at the diag connector.


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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

cool thanks man,i charged the battery over night and it was awesome to be in the house and one button press boom fired right up.Didnt hear any excess starter noise or anything so i think i got the cranking time set right.ill get this 455t wired up and let you know how it turned out.

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-= Michael Ingram =-

Did you end up connecting the tach wire or no? If the tach is connected and programmed then the crank time won't matter. Crank time is only used when using voltage sensing or no engine sensing.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

No i didnt hook the tach up but i will go ahead and do it.Better safe then sorry.

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-= Michael Ingram =-

I got the 455t wired up and the door locks are working fine.The factory alarm sets with the python alarm now.
I have one problem though,i hooked the (-) door trigger green wire to the yellow wire in the drivers kick panel and the remote is saying the door is open.How do i fix this?Thanks.

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-= Michael Ingram =-

The yellow wire is a domelight wire so there is a delay until the dome light turns off. Once it turns off the icon should turn off.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Damn man what would i do without you lol.I feel like i owe you a beer or something.Ill go wire it back to that wire and see what happens.Thanks again.

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-= Michael Ingram =-

Ok so i hooked it back up,green wire from the alarm to the yellow wire in kick panel,when i set the alarm it locks the doors and turns the dome light off.It still says "door open" and when that goes away it shows a yellow caution sign on the door on the remotes main display screen.any ideas?


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-= Michael Ingram =-

I see the green wire on the alarm harness can be normally open or normally closed,maybe this is the problem or has something to do with it?

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-= Michael Ingram =-

How do you have the door pin connected? Is it straight from the brain to the car or did you wire up the relay that is shown in the 455T manual? The programming for the door pin should be set at normally open.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Its straight from the alarm brain to the car,i didnt realize i need to to that relay.I thought it was just the 455t.I can do the relay looks pretty simple i just have to try and find a relay.Thanks.

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-= Michael Ingram =-

Yea, that should fix your issue. When the starter is activated it disarms the factory alarm which turns the domelight on temporarily. In doing so the brain will think the door is being opened and can trip the alarm.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Its saying door open when i just set the alarm normally,says it everytime regardless if i try to remote start or just hit the lock button.

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-= Michael Ingram =-

Put a meter on that wire and make sure it is showing ground ONLY when a door is opened. Keep in mind that your trunk trigger is also tied into that wire. Check all doors to make sure the door pins are functioning properly. Worse comes to worse you can connect to each individual door pin wire to the side of the steering column and diode isolate each.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

its showing ground with the door open and closed.Will getting a 5wire and hooking it up like the 455t manual fix my problem or do i need to go another route?

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-= Michael Ingram =-

Did you wait for the domelight to turn off during your test. If it is showing ground with the door open and when it is closed and the light is off then you have a bad door pin somewhere. Try disconnecting the door pins one at a time (if you can get to them easily) until the wire no longer shows ground when everything is shut and the light is off.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

i pushed all the door pins in 1 by 1 and set and unset the alarm,it worked but was still giving me the open door thing.I didnt pull the door pins out or anything,but when i would push them in and hit lock the siren would chirp,when i would let the doorpin open and hit lock it wouldnt chirp.I couldnt find the door pin for the rear hatch if there is one.


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-= Michael Ingram =-

Im not sure if when i open the rear hatch the interior lights should come on.They didnt.But i dont have the liftgate open on the screen in the lower dash.Also when the gate is open the factory alarm wont set, when it is closed the factory alarm will set.


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-= Michael Ingram =-

What do you have the door input programmed to? Normally open or normally closed?


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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

normally open,i double checked it last night.I read that without that relay hooked to the 455t it will cause false triggers.Maybe that is the problem.I know the door trigger isnt working on the python alarm,but if i open the door when alarm is set the factory alarm goes off.


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-= Michael Ingram =-

should i try the normally closed?

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-= Michael Ingram =-

It wouldn't hurt to try it. Next step would be to test each individual door pin. I still think it sounds like a bad door pin... and the trunk/hatch may be the culprit.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

ok ill pull the rear hatch cover off and see if i can find that pin,i know there is one for the rear lift glass and the hatch itself.ill report back.


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-= Michael Ingram =-

Before you do that, you can test the individual pins below the dash and test each one with your DMM set on continuity (audible is easiest). They should show ground when the door is open and nothing when its closed. Test each one and see if there is one that is showing ground all the time.
Here is the info from DEI:
To avoid dome light delay there are 5 separate trigger wires in a 14 pin black plug at the BCM located between the steering column and the drivers kick panel. The plug is located in the drivers side front corner of BCM just behind the knee bolster. All wires in the plug exit straight down. The door trigger colors are tan, tan/red, tan/orange, and tan / YELLOW. The trunk trigger color is tan/black. All of them are negative trigger. Grab each wire and diode isolate. See Tech Doc 1076 for wiring information.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

ok ill do that so i dont have to take off the plastic on hatch.

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-= Michael Ingram =-

Exactly. If you have someone to help you it might make it easier (you can hold/watch the DMM while they open/close the doors. Those wires should not have any delay to worry about.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

I checked all the door pins and it seems they are funtioning correctly.

I got a 5 wire relay because on the dei 455t it says when installing the security syetem with remote start,the BLACK/ white wire from the dei455t is hooked up to the relay along with the door trigger input from the security system so that it stops false door triggers.I believe this is my problem.

I am a little confused on the wiring diagram of the relay.What is confusing me is there is 2 87 pins one is a 87 and one is 87A,it shows on the diagram a little split with arrows and i dont know if that means they get hooked together or?Also the pin for 30 shows a line going up towards the 87 and 87A,its just confusing me im not sure if all them get wired together or what.Any help is appreciated as always.Thank you.

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-= Michael Ingram =-

No, a relay works just like a switch. When the coil (pins 85 & 86) is NOT energized then Pin 30 and 87a are connected together. When you energize the coil (put 12v to one side, ground to the other) you "activate" the switch which disconnects Pin 30 from Pin 87a and connects Pin 30 to Pin 87. I believe for that you want to connect the 2 wires of the door trigger to Pins 30 and 87a so you temporarily disconnect the signal to prevent the false trigger.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

ok so id hook the door trigger wire coming from the security brain up to pin 30,and i would hook pin 87a up to the door trigger wire of the vehicle?
Id use the BLACK/ white wire which is a - from the 455t to hook up to the ground of the coil,and i would use a 12v constant fused hooked up to the positive of the coil?
Which pin is negative and which pin is positive out of 85 and 86?
my door trigger is for the vehicle is a negative i that helps with anything.

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-= Michael Ingram =-

85 is neg and 86 pos. You should connect a 1N4004 diode between 85 and 86 with its band to pos, 86.
Kenny's point about looking up diagram/tech tip 1076, that's how you should connect your door triggers.
Kenny you should be a Platinum after this.
At least our poster is asking the right questions

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

And he is actually trying the suggestions which is very nice. It just sucks that its gotten this far with still no solution... lol

And is there a reason that the pos/neg matters in regards to Pins 85 & 86. I've always thought it didn't matter, but it better going one way vs. the other? Also, what exactly is the diode for? I've never used on on the relay and I've never had problems, but I always see people use it.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

A lot of my problem with upgrading my user status is because I went so long idle on the site (joined in 2005, posted for a while, but then pretty much dropped off the site while I wasn't in the business anymore) so although my total posts are around 750, my posts per day is less than 1... so my status won't be changing for quite a while.. lol

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Yes that's what I meant. Makes you glad to help, I think the answer lies with loads of 1N4004 and good old DEI 1076. Just to think on Fraud Mondeos over here I used to use relays and nasty 10k strapping resistors before some clever sod came out with the diode idea, fiddly but so much cheaper.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Well just don't do a Howard and evoke sarcasm when in my case my beloved soccer team has lost and I'm in a bad mood, usually around midday your time on a Saturday or Sunday, then some moron asks me a daft question. I've been a Platinum TWICE before and got demoted!

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

It will be a long time til I get anywhere near platinum. I'd be happy with silver for now... lol.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

So how many total diodes would i need to pick up?And i just wire them up exactly like in the diagram,with a diode on each individual switch wire then splice a wire with another diode off each of them wires connecting to the trigger input from the alarm?I kind of get it but i just want to be sure lol sorry about all the questions and double checking.

I will pick the diodes up tomorrow when i know how many total i will need.

Thanks again.

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-= Michael Ingram =-

It depends on if the unit has a separate trunk pin input or not. If so then you will just need 4 for the 4 doors. If it does not have a separate trunk pin input then you will need 5. Connect all of the diodes together to the door pin input (band facing towards unit) and solder the connection to make sure it doesn't come undone. Then its much easier to solder extension wire to the diode rather than trying to connect the diode straight to the door pin wire on the car. With the extension wire you will be able to solder the connections and then bundle the diodes together to help keep the connection from breaking. Then connect each of the separate extension wires into the separate door triggers and you are done.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Ok thanks ill pick them up tomorrow and give her a go.Thanks for all the help i was not the smartest and still aint but i have learned alot from the help you and others have gave me.Its cool being able to understand something that before was so hard to catch on to.

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-= Michael Ingram =-

Kenny, it's either 8 or 10, not 4 or 5, you still have to diode them together if we're using 1076; by the way is this a sleeper circuit needing all those diodes?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Its a 1997 jeep grand cherokee with factory alarm.I installed a python 592 alarm/remote start and the DEI 455t module.The door trigger wire is a (-).Everything on the alarm is working except the door triggers.Thats where im at now.

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-= Michael Ingram =-

I haven't really worked on these since the early 90s when they first came out in R/hand drive for the UK but back then there was a puddle (floor) lamp under dash on both sides, if still there disconnect the plug from the lamp and test, one side reads 12v+, it's the other wire you want, then see if that loses it's ground when you shut the door. If so go there. Probably too simple but there you go.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

no, I think he would only need 4 or 5 diodes. All he is doing is separating the different door triggers. On that car he has an option of using the dome light circuit (which I believe includes that little lamp) but that will trigger when disarming the factory alarm and can cause false alarms. So the easiest solution is to just get the 5 different door pins at the BCM/module next to the steering column. And then he just has to diode isolate each doorpin. I still think that is the best way to go and then he won't have to worry about wiring up the relay with the 455t or have issues with false alarms.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Thanks Kenny, I did loads of alarms on the pre 94 Cherokees, but apart from phones and audio on 98 and on Grand Cherokees, I've had no real contact with them, I thought they didn't need 1076, now you've confirmed it and your method is correct.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Guys the false alarm thing is gone since i hooked up the relay.I Need to get the door triggers working.Still when i set the alarm and open a door the door triggers do not sound the alarm.

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-= Michael Ingram =-

Did you check the programming on the unit to see if it was programmed for Normally open or normally closed? It may just be a simple programming issue.

Have you confirmed that you are getting a ground signal on your door input wire whenever you open the doors?

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

i picked up the diodes.I will go check again to see if the doors are showing ground when opened and make sure the programming is set for normally open.

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-= Michael Ingram =-

If you are getting a good ground signal on your door input wire then you will not need to go to the separate triggers. I thought you were still having an issue with the false alarm... my mistake. Also just to be sure, you do have the yellow (-) door trigger connected to the green (-) door trigger input on the Python correct?

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

i have a yellow wire from the drivers kick panel connected to the green wire yes,it is wired to that relay i did yesterday.BEfore i put the relay on i was getting that error on the python remote saying door open after i would arm the alarm.Now it is not saying door open anymore,but when i unarm the alarm i get the door trigger message on the python remote.

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-= Michael Ingram =-

That still sounds weird. If you already have the diodes and you have already tested the separate door triggers then you might as well just connect it and not worry about that relay. I can't say for sure that it has anything to do with that, but its 1 less thing to worry about.

Also make sure to check the programming setting for normally open vs. normally closed.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205