got a 50.7x for my ’05 mr2 for xmas

Hi all,

I received a Clifford 50.7x for Christmas, and was wondering what all I would need to install it myself.

I've transferred a Viper alarm from a 96 Prelude to an 07 Yaris, so I think I can handle the install. The new part for me will be the remote start. Even so, my time might be more valuable than the installation cost. How much do people normally charge for installation?

I know I need an override module. I've heard about the PK-ALL ($38) and iDataLink, but what would you recommend?

Also what do you guys think about adding these modules? Even from Amazon this is over $170 of extras.

530t window automation system - $46 - So I can crack or roll down the windows on hot days, or roll up the windows automatically when I lock the car. I'd also like to emulate how newer cars automatically crack the window open when you open the door, then seal the window shut after you close it.

508d dual zone motion sensor - $29 - My MR2 has a removable hardtop and no soft top, so this would be for those few occasions that I leave my hardtop at home.

507m tilt sensor - $26 - To hopefully help keep my wheels safe, though I'm not sure if this is a waste of money.

515r rechargable siren - $29 - To stuff, say, under the dash.

Do you know if your car has a chipped key (can you get a plain jane metal key that will start and run your car or does it require a more expensive key?)? If it is a chipped key then you will need the PK-ALL or similar bypass. I've had good luck with the PK-ALL for just the basic immobilizer system.

I have a 530T window automation system in my car and I love it. I have it run off the ground when armed output of my alarm so it will automatically roll up the windows when I lock the car. Then I run the down off of one of the aux outputs. Not sure how you would wire it up to crack with the door open then shut after closing.. will probably require some extra relay wiring.

The motion sensors are damn near useless from my experience. I have never had good luck getting them to program 100% especially on convertibles. I tend to get more false alarms on everyone I've installed than they were worth. Just my 2 cents.

The tilt sensors are nice to have, but its all down to personal preference.

Its never a bad idea to have either a battery back-up or rechargeable siren. Anybody looking to steal a car will more than likely quickly pop the hood and cut the battery terminal if they suspect an alarm is installed. Once that battery wire is cut, it doesn't really matter about the normal siren... I'm not sure though if even the rechargeable siren would help in this case because the alarm still wouldn't be able to produce the signal to activate the siren.

Another thing to look into, possibly instead of the motion sensor, would be a glass break sensor. Although it may not be utilized much on a convertible, if set properly, it could be used as a sensor for if someone is in the car making noise to set off the alarm... but it would be a real fine line between setting it low enough to activate with the little noise, and getting false alarms.

Hope all that helps...

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Sorry Kenny but I'm of the complete opposite view on sensors!
I would specify the 508d* as the primary, especially on a convertible.
Glass break is unnecessary.
The problem is that the best mounting place is in the centre console and guess what, you have to remove the chairs to get at it!
I've only done window close on one, the passenger switch was standard type A wiring. For the driver side I had to go to a processor above the wheel arch on the right (right hand drive, might be other side in the US) for the motor wires. You might also have a white factory alarm or alarm plug located near the instrument panel to pick up lock/unlock triggers and lights. If not door and at least hood triggers have icons on the rear of the instrument panel pick up the triggers there.
*If correctly set up.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Well I partially do agree with you. The 508d is usefull if you can get it set properly. I've just never had much luck. It seemed like every little thing including even air temperature seemed to affect the zones. I did one in a van because the guy had kids constantly climbing up on his van and even he was confused because the zones would be perfect for 3-6 months and then they'd be way out of whack and I'd have to re-set them. I reset that thing at least a dozen times within a few years. Luckily the guy was understanding and didn't mind the short trip every couple months.

And I wouldn't say the glass break is useless, but it is tough to set right. I've done it on a select few cars and was able to set it just right to minimize false alarms, but still trigger with the noise of say ripping out a radio...

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Today I placed the brain under the rear storage bins, and wired the antenna (placed behind the rear view mirror - came with BARELY enough wire to reach).

Over the next few days I'll hook up everything I can until all the modules come in.

Based on your input, I switched from the battery-powered siren to a 520T backup battery + 513T mini siren, and saved a few bucks in the process.

Gonna give the motion sensor a try, and I'll count on it + the built-in shock sensor to detect intrusion / glass break.

So, the final purchase list is:
520T Battery Backup - $22.73 (Amazon Warehouse)
513T Mini Siren - $12.23 (Amazon)
508D Motion Sensor - $26.43 (Amazon Warehouse)
507M Tilt Sensor - $26.48 (Amazon)
530T Window Module - $42.99 (eBay)
PKALL Bypass - $38.18 (Amazon)

Total $169.04

Sucks I can't edit posts yet. Forgot to ask - Any suggestions on a trunk release kit? Looking at this one, but don't know if it's any good.
https://r./obHZt3

Right correct install; control unit up under dash, siren to outside of spare wheel casing in the front, keeps all the wiring nice and short.
All the trunk release kits of the same price are as good or bad as each other, can't open your link, I'd go for the DEI kit.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Trunk release solenoids are touch and go. Sometimes they work, sometimes they don't. I've done very few (usually not worth the hassle) and I just did one on my Subaru and it was a no go. Even the high torque solenoid wasn't enough to release the trunk.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

X2 with offroadzj except that he and I both work out in the field where time is of the essence.
If you are going to do this yourself and unless you get very lucky with the positioning, you will spend all day on this!
I won't even quote for it.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Instead of under the dash, I put the control unit under the rear storage bin (behind the driver's seat). The antenna wire JUST reaches it without needing extension.

Since the ECU is right there, along with a grommet to the engine bay, I figured I'd at least have access to all of the remote start wires. Would the dash still be a better location?

Under the rear storage bin, I see two placement options:





Also, the PKALL had two harnesses - one with a plug that connects to the brain, and one that's just a pigtail. Is the pigtail for people who use the PKALL with non-DEI alarms?

Why do the charts say I need two keys? I glanced at the instructions and it doesn't look like I need a second key. I only have one master and one valet key, and I heard the valet key wouldn't work.

Is there some place that documents all of this? It seems like DEI guides are hidden from the public, and you need to be a dealer to get any vehicle-specific information.

Well, I ended up having the work done at a shop in San Jose since I was in town for a convention. I paid $100 for the alarm and $75 for each accessory (backup battery, siren, motion, tilt), for a total of $350. Seems like they were working on it for 4-5 hours, so I think the price was fair.

Since they're kinda far away (2.5 hours), I'm debating on whether or not I should try to fix some issues myself.

1. Engine cannot be started if FRONT hood is open, even with the key. First of all, the engine is in the BACK, not in the front (which is my trunk), so the hood pin connections need to be swapped. Secondly, I want to be able to start the car with the key, even if the engine lid is open.

2. I want the remote to unlock the driver door first, then the passenger door. Currently, a single click unlocks both doors.

3. I think a neutral safety switch is a necessity - any comments on a setup like this? It seems that Toyota C-series trannies don't have neutral sensor wires, so we have to build our own. At the time, the shop and I agreed to just bypass the neutral safety switch completely.

4. Install the 530T window module - the shop forgot to put it on the original invoice, so they called me later and asked for $100 extra to install it. It's understandable, but being $350 deep already, I figured I'd do the window module myself.

5. Relocate the motion sensor, which was stuffed under the dash / stereo and fell out under my feet while I was driving home.

You've been done!
1) a)Swap the grey and blue trigger wires over on the R/S.
b) You should still be able to start on the key with hood open, engine or luggage bays.)

2) Lock wire stays as is, unlock 5 wire relays the driver's unlock motor wire and second lock output gets connected to the wire the original unlock wire was connected to. Having said that why? No need in a car that size.

3) You need to check the engine management pin-outs, see if there's a neutral safety wire and connect the R/S BLACK/ white wire to that.
If not what you have now is highly dangerous and shouldn't have been done.

4) Connect the 530t to the window motor wires in each kick panel as they go into the doors, the driver side can't be done at the switch.

5) Sheer laziness, the prox should have gone into the centre console, in fact you have to pull the front seats to get at the console but it would have made the rest of the install far easier.


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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Got around to relocating the 508d tonight. Do you think my placement is ok?


Under the ebrake handle


Also, here's how I unscrew the center console without taking out the seats. I have celica seats though, not stock mr2 seats.

I really need the ability to edit my posts......

Anyway, I'm more concerned about protecting the area behind the seats than anything else. I noticed a green and red light on the module - green lights up if I move gently, red if I move quickly. They don't appear to correspond to distance. They're also kind of hard to trigger from the back of the car (which I want to protect).

I can't go setting off the alarm since it's so late/early, so I guess tomorrow I can test it out.

Placement is fine, if you're worried about the rear, see if you can mount it to the rear of the console or even under where the rear seats would be.
Carefully read the adjustments section in the 508d manual.
That trick's OK, but you can't get between the seat and the bolster like that with the OEM chairs.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Started getting false warnings from the sensor. Turns out I was supposed to have this rotated 90 degrees? It's not as convenient to mount that way, but it does seem to be working better.

However, I don't feel like the sensor is working well in the back of the car, where my subwoofer / storage is located (even though it's probably better than before).

I don't want to increase the strength because it'll pick up past the sides of the car. Instead, I'm thinking about relocating the sensor again.

Thoughts?

Try to understand that this is suck and see, you have to play with it to get it right.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Is it possible to install the 530T but keep stock window switch functionality?

I prefer the physical click for auto-down, and I don't really need auto-up from the switch, especially since I have a tendency to quickly tap my window switches to make miniscule adjustments.

Or maybe the window switch will keep its stock functionality and I'm worrying for no reason.

In case it's helpful:
https://www.testroete.com/car/Toyota/mr2%20spyder/Repair%20Information/Wiring%20Diagrams/09%20-%20System%20Circuits/18%20-%20POWER%20WINDOW.pdf

I had some trouble finding where the wires fed into the car - they disappear after entering through the door jamb. Looks like I can tap the driver side at the body computer, and the passenger side at the window switch (which runs under the stereo). This gives me easy access to all wires while requiring minimal length.

I don't really understand how to test the switch type (A/B/C) but I need to read it more thoroughly.

Type A at each door loom if you wire to those points you will keep your functionality and the passenger switch will now also have one-shot up-down.
Again if you are asking these questions???

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Got all my connections planned except Output During Activation (-, gray).

Does the brain already know to ignore sensors during aux activation? Is there an input on the brain to ignore all sensors (I don't see it in diagram)? Do I just need to bypass the 508d on my own? Or is it case-by-case and I need to test if the windows will trigger my alarm or not?

What kind of relay is recommended for this? Someone said to get a PCB / SMD relay. Is that enough? I have gigantic relays (like what come with fog light kits) laying around...

Suck it and see, it shouldn't but if it does use the grey to trigger a PCB relay to break the inner zone during activation.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

It's working! This is SO awesome!

Thanks for all your helpful posts throughout this whole effort. This has been a fun project!

Nice to hear.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.