prostart ct 3371, 2000 town and country

I don't know if this is the right forum to post this but if not please let me know.

I am installing a prostart CT 3371 in a 2000 Chrysler Town & Country with factory keyless entry/alarm. I got all the available info from the Autostart site and I'm just a bit confused with the wiring info that I downloaded.

I understand that I have to use some resistors and relays on the door lock/ arm, door unlock/disarm WHITE/ green mux wire. The wiring info also includes an arm/disarm WHITE/ red mux wire and I'm not sure if I need to hook this up(resistors et all) to the remote start or not as the WHITE/ green wire should also arm/disarm. Any pertinent info on this would be a great help as I'd like to have all the t's crossed and i's dotted before commencing. We've been lucky so far weather-wise but it's fixin' to get to REAL winter soon and would like to have this done.

trembuzz  

The van arms with a Lock and disarms with an Unlock.
First, program the CT 3371 for Secure Lock ( Function2, opt 2 ).  This will unlock the doors prior to remote
start up, turning off the alarm, and then relock the doors after the remote start up.

It appears that the Prostart CT 3371 does not have internal relays for the locks.  You will need to follow the
top diagram in the following link, using a 665 ohm & 4020 ohm resistors for Unlock & Lock, respectively.  
https://www.bulldogsecurity.com/diagrams/extrainfo/diagrams/14301_TOWN-&-COUNTRY_CHRYSLER%20MINI%20VAN%2096%20-%2000%20%201%20WIRE%20JBS%20UNITS.pdf

Another option is to purchase a DEI 451M Lock Module.  It has the relays pre-wired in a small module
with the necessary resistors included.  It connects directly to the CT 3371 Lock & Unlock outputs and the
vans Lock/Unlock wire.  Here is a link to the 451M install guide  :  https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=726
 

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Soldering is fun!

This is very good info and I thank you! I haven't got to the programming yet but I'll use the info when I do.

Thank you once again!

Trembuzz

Sorry to bug u again Kreg but do I ignore the doorpin or go for the illuminated entry?

Thanks in advance

Trembuzz

Not sure on your question.  Are you asking about the CT 3371 Gray (-) Negative Door input wire?

Not positive on the ProStart units but usually the Door Trigger Input is only required on alarm systems or R/S units installed in
a manual trans vehicle.  It probably isn't necessary on your auto trans van with a R/S w/Keyless entry ProStart unit.

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Soldering is fun!

Yeah, it's the grey - wire on the R/S and the wiring info from Autostart lists a BROWN / green or BROWN / white doorpin wire at the BCM. I'm thinking the only reason to use this wire would be for illuminated entry but FIIK!!lol.

Trembuzz 

Do the interior lights come on with a Unlock from the Factory FOB's?  Then you don't need Dome Light supervision, either.

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Soldering is fun!

Yeah, the lights come on with an unlock from the factory fob so I guess I can just ignore the doorpin info.

Thanks again for all your help. It was awesome!

Trembuzz

Would you happen to know the best location to bring the tach wire through the firewall? (Still a bit tentative.)

I'm finally going to start the install!  LOL

Trembuzz

Haven't done one for a while.  There should be a grommet somewhere.  Sometimes it is an empty one but usually it's one with a harness already going thru.  Use a coat hanger to push thru the rubber between the harness and grommet edge after making there are no wires in the way on the other side.

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Soldering is fun!

I tried to get through the hood release grommet from outside in but it binds up before I can see any coat hanger coming through. I'll take a closer under the dash look when it's a bit warmer. My toes are frozen!  LOL.

Thanks again,

Trembuzz

A little shot of WD-40 on the hanger works wonders.  

Had a heated garage for my mobile install today. 

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Soldering is fun!

Nice! A buddy's got access to a heated garage on Tues. so if I don't get it done by then we'll take it in there!

I've got the knee bolster and plate off already so as soon as I get the tach wire through the rest should be a piece of cake.

Have a good one now ya hear?

Trembuzz

Just to let you know that all went well and the unit works well thanks to your guidance.

I have a chance to buy an Ultra Start Model # U-1355A. I'd like to put it in another Chrysler mini-van of mine. A 1996 Grand Caravan SE and was wondering if you've had any experience with this model or brand. I'd appreciate any feedback you could offer!

Thank you,

Trembuzz

Glad the install went well.    Of course once the family and friends find out............. 

Ultra Start makes a solid unit with easy programming and enough programming options to cover most installs.  My favorite
is the U1272 series for basic remote start / keyless entry.  They can be had for around $50.  Never used the Ultra Start
1355A model.  They haven't made them for a few years.  Should be a good unit for your application.  Just connect the tach
wire to the coil pack for reliable cold weather starts.

The 1996 Caravan should be pretty easy.  Don't think it has a transponder immobilizer ( U.S. ones didn't ) but check to see
if the ignition key is black or gray.  Gray ones need a transponder bypass.  The van uses a one wire door lock system.  You
will need relays and resistors to interface it.  Best thing is a DEI 451M door lock module ( $12 ).  Comes with the relays in a
compact module and the resistor assortment .  Here is a link to the 451M install guide :  https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=726
Here is a diagram for the 1996 Caravan one wire system  :
https://www.bulldogsecurity.com/diagrams/extrainfo/diagrams/14301_TOWN-&-COUNTRY_CHRYSLER%20MINI%20VAN%2096%20-%2000%20%201%20WIRE%20JBS%20UNITS.pdf

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Soldering is fun!

in canada we have the immobilizer.

buy yourself a fortin INT-SL (cheap module) this will handle lock/unlock disarm, sliding doors, trunk, etc.


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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Yeah, I told all who know that I installed an RS not to tell anyone!

We'll see how that goes. The RS I was going to get got sold before I had a chance so I'll look for that U1272 that you mentioned.

Later, Trembuzz

Thanks for the input tedmund.

I got a local stereo shop to make the resistors I needed for my 1st install as they didn't have the ohms rated ones that I needed. The '96 Caravan is a less expensive model and I can pick up the resistors off the shelf. I have a bunch of relays that I need to get rid of anyway so I'll just build me another module. But thanks just the same.

Trembuzz

You still require a bypass module. If you use the int sl it only takes an hour to install everything.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

OK.

Thank you.

Trembuzz

Hey, I missed out on that Ultra Start Model # U-1355A but picked up a Ultra Start 1272-80 XR PRO. I don't know if it's much different than the U1272 but if you have any info I'd sure be grateful.

Thanks,

Trembuzz

Hi Kreg,

Hope I'm not becoming too much of a nuisance. Somebody posted these specs for my '96 Grand Caravan in the requested diagrams section. Just wondering if you could corroborate these?

Caravan:<br><br>12V+ = Red at ignition switch<br>Starter = Yellow at
ignition switch<br>Ignition = Blue at ignition
switch<br>Heater = BLACK/ Orange at ignition switch<br>Door
Trigger(-) = Yellow at BCM or light<br>Parking Lights + =
BLACK / YELLOW at lights<br>Trunk Release + = Gray/Black at
switch<br>Lock 3 wire + = ORANGE / Purple at BCM<br>Unlock " " =
Pink/Purple at BCM<br>Tach (-) = BLACK/ Gray at coil<br>Left
Window Up + = Lt. Blue at driver's switch<br>Left Window
Dn. + = White at driver's switch<br>Rt. Window Up + =
BROWN / White at driver's switch<br>Rt. Window Dn. + =
PURPLE / White at driver's switch<br>Horn (-) = BLACK/ Red in
column<br>Cold Side of Brake = WHITE/ Tan at brake
switch<br><br>As always, verify each of these with your meter.

Thanks again,

Trembuzz

Oops!

It's ok on the wiring, I found it in the wiring section.(duh, I was looking in the manuals section)

Have a good one!

Trembuzz

The Ultra Start 1272-80 XR Pro is a nice system. You will be satisfied.   

Here is a link to DEI for more wire info on the 2006 Caravan  :  https://www.readyremote.com/main.asp?make=Dodge&model=Caravan

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Soldering is fun!

Thanks kreg357, but this is a 1996 Grand Caravan SE with no factory alarm.

Trembuzz.

Oops, my error.  That link will still get you there.  Just select the "year" and "remote start" info.

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Soldering is fun!

Thanks again, you da man!!!!

Trembuzz

Man, I must be on a roll. I bought another UltraStart 1272 XR Pro (eBay). I'd like to put it in my 2002 Concorde LXI but I'll require an immobilizer bypass kit. Just wondering if you have any suggestions as to which one to use?

Thank you, Trembuzz

fortin int-sl+ for bypass
fortin evo-all for bypass/convenience features.

all in one unit

idatalink ads-al-ca

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Does it have the Gray Ignition key?  Does it have the Factory Alarm?
Unless you want to wire up a bunch of relays,  (+) Trunk, (+) resistor Door Locks, think I would go with an iDatalink
ADS-ALSL CH bypass module.   It comes pre-loaded with firmware and is ready to go.

You will still need a 30/40A SPDT relay for ACC2 ( program the U1272 for Menu 1, Item 5, Opt 1 and use the Black wire on the 9 pin
connector to control the external ACC2 relay ).

Bulldog Security has the wiring info and some pictures :  https://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/vehiclewiringdiagrams.asp
Also look under 2002 Dodge Intrepid ( sister vehicle ) for more pictures.

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Soldering is fun!

Yeah, it's got factory alarm and transponder (grey) key.

The iDatalink ADS-ALSL CH sounds like a nice way to make the install easier!

Just a couple more questions:

1. How much should the iDatalink ADS-ALSL CH set me back?

2. Is the extra relay that you mentioned (ACC2) for the heater or something else?

Thanks in advance,

Trembuzz

the idatalink should be around 65-80 bucks retail.
the additional relay is most likely for blower motor.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Thanks tedmond.

I appreciate the input.

https://img705.imageshack.us/img705/2368/concordewiring.jpg

https://img9.imageshack.us/img9/5946/concordewiring2.jpg

These are the specs for my "type 3" install but no mention of a relay.

Trembuzz

The install wiring diagrams from iDatalink show only the connections from the R/S to the bypass
module and the bypass to the vehicle.  They do not show the connections necessary from the R/S to
the vehicle.  ( You will notice there is no Chassis Ground or +12V constant connections illustrated.)

You will still need to make the necessary connections from the heavy gauge 6 Pin harness to the vehicle.
The selectable White wire will be left at the factory default of IGN2 and connected to the GREEN/ Red
IGN2 wire.  The extra relay will be wired as follows :

Relay Pin 85 to U1272 Black wire 9 Pin connector  ***
Relay Pin 86 and 87 to +12V constant thru 20A fuse
Relay Pin 30 to Concorde ACC2 BLACK/ White @ Ignition Harness
Relay Pin 87A not used - insulate ( or de-pin )

*** Set U1272 programming Mode 1, Setting 5 to Opt 1

Additional connections from the U1272 to the vehicle include :
Parking Lights
Chassis Ground
Horn ( optional )
Hood Pin Switch

While the U1272 is capable of one-way D2D communication to the iDatalink module ( all the Black
dashed lined ), I would go W2W with all the necessary connections.  Some connections like Door
status, Trunk status and E-Brake status are not required for your R/S system.  The U1272 will
learn the ADS ALSL CH's Tach signal automatically the first time you start the vehicle after install.

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Soldering is fun!

Wow!  I knew this would be a bit tougher than the T&C and Caravan installs but with your help and guidance I'm feeling more confident. (I think, lol).

Your preference being analog as opposed to digital I take it?

Thank you once again for taking the time.

Trembuzz

i still prefer wire to wire. if a fault occurs across data, you have no way of doing diagnostics (data). If you have w2w, that at least gives you an opportunity to test the wire itself, and see if it works.



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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

X2 with Ted.  W2W is the best way to go.  Only takes a half hour to mate the bypass module to the U1272 on the bench, making all the necessary connections with solder and heat shrink tube.   Gives you a nice, neat assembly to install that will last the lifetime of the vehicle.

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Soldering is fun!

Yeah, I get it on the w2w. It just makes more sense.

Thanks again.

Trembuzz