new 06, 10 tacoma door locks

I have noticed that on the newer tacoma's it says that there are both the factory arm/disarm wires as well as actual lock wires that may need to be used if the arm/disarm wires do not work when the vehicle is running.

The question is, if the arm/disarm wires off the unit are connected to the arm/disarm wires in the car AND the lock wires off the unit are connected to the lock wires, will there be an issue with both wires being pulsed during lock/unlock??? Basically, will it be "double locking/unlocking" every time either button is pressed? I would prefer to keep the factory alarm working but will also need the lock/unlock wires if the locks don't work while the vehicle is running.

Hopefully that all makes sense and someone can chime in here. I have a 2010 Tacoma tomorrow and I'd like to know if I have to do anything special before I get into it.

-------------
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

idatalink modules will keep factory keyless intact/working.

double pulse disarm to unlock.

connect gwr to keysense to disarm without unlock.

-------------
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

The 2010 I'm doing tomorrow is still a 40bit, not the 80bit so I don't believe the idatalink will control locks on the 40bit trucks (from what I have read). I already grabbed the bypass (key-override-all).

I would also prefer to maintain the factory alarm if it is equipped. And from what I was reading on the readyremote.com wire diagram is that even the aftermarket lock/unlock will not work correctly when the vehicle is running... which is why connection to the lock/unlock may be required.

-------------
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

factory alarm arm - purple (-) DKP white 10pin plug
factory alarm disarm - GREEN/ black (-) DKP white 10pin plug *double pulse*

Use factory arm/disarm wires for lock and unlock. if the vehicle does not unlock or lock with the aftermarket system while remote started, diode isolate and connect to lock and unlock wires

Lock - blue/white (-) DKP white 10pin plug
Unlock - Gray (-) DKP white 10pin plug


-------------
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

I was planning on just connecting the lock/unlock outputs if the locks didn't work when running... I just wanted to make sure that it wouldn't cause any issues having both wires pulsed (essentially sending 2 different unlock/lock pulses when the truck is not running).

-------------
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

the 2 wires are common to one another. You can verify with 2 meters if you wish with the key in the driver door cylinder. i did one of these last week and it worked out fine for me.

if in doubt use a relay to break continuity on the factory arm/disarm wires and have them connect right to the lock wires.

-------------
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

What happened to the previous page Kenny? I also mentioned keysense as a possibility.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Having the same kinds of issues on a 08 Tundra quad cab... Wont unlock with the remote start transmitter when it is not in remote start.. and as usual the Toyota Fob does not work while it is in remote start.. I used the XK05 for immobilizer. That requires a connection to key sense wire. I was wondering if I pulsed the keysense wire for unlock if that might make a difference.. or should I try the arm and disarm wires ????  I hooked the red and white in DKP!!!

howie ll wrote:

---

What happened to the previous page Kenny? I also mentioned keysense as a possibility.

---

That one was specific to that one truck I was working on, this is more of a general question regarding the locks... that would show up better in a search for future people wondering the same thing.

-------------
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Thanks, got to explain that to senile old fools like me.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Haha. Well I did the 2010 today with connecting both the arm/disarm and lock/unlock and everything worked pretty well. I did notice that they still didn't seem to work when the ignition was turned on with the key, but that wasn't a big deal. They worked fine with the remote starter which is what mattered.

-------------
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Ok, I'm sure I'm just looking over my previous thread but I can't find the darn thing.
Anyways, I had an 06 Tacoma I did a few weeks ago that is having trouble with the locks. I thought it was just because I tagged the arm/disarm wires and not the lock/unlock wires which I found out apparently don't work when the truck is running. Well just this past weekend I did a 2010 Tacoma and now he is having the same issue.

Basically the lock function works perfectly, but unlock will work if its running but won't work if the truck isn't started. I have both the arm/disarm wires and the lock/unlock wires connected on the 2010 so its not that.

Anyone have any ideas? I thought maybe the 06 was a fluke but now 2 having the same issue is something weird. And I have another 2010 Tacoma coming next week so I'd really like to get this figured out asap.
Thanks

-------------
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

what color is the unlock wire you used on that truck? where did you get it? and did u double pulse it ?

-------------
triniforever

First, thanks for merging the threads... right after I posted the new one, I was able to find the old one... lol.

On the 2006 I think I only used the arm/disarm wires (GREEN/ black and violet) and I can't remember if I double pulsed or not... I'm pretty sure I did, but can't say for sure.

On the 2010 I connected the arm/disarm wires (GREEN/ black and violet) and the lock/unlock wires (blue/white and gray). I did not do double pulse on either (disarm or unlock) since the wire diagram did not show it as double pulse required on the unlock wire.

All wires were connected in the driver kick panel.

The truck is coming back in about 20 minutes so any help is appreciated. I'm going to try connecting the unlock/lock output into the arm/disarm and setting it for double pulse unlock and see if it works. If no

-------------
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Got it all figured out. Apparently the new DEI units come preprogrammed as disarm only for remote start (not for unlock) so with splitting the wires it wasn't disarming the alarm before trying to unlock... so it was locking out the unlock wire. So I tied the lock/unlock wires into the arm/disarm wires and set it for double pulse unlock. Then turned the Safestart on so that the truck will re-lock after starting (rather than running another line to the keysense which I will do in the future).

-------------
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205