viper alarm problem

Hi everyone, have just been reading the forums and PMed a member who looked to have some knowledge about alarms, but thought I may as well post it here as well.

I have a Viper 460XV alarm installed which has ultrasonic sensors installed on the a pillar. It seems usually after i park up and arm the alarm anywhere from almost immediately to 30 mins(usually within the first ten minutes) the alarm will trigger, and when i disarm it the status LED reports that its my ultrasonics which are triggering.
I was told by someone with the same make alarm it may be the warm air from the heaters cooling causing it to trigger, and I have noticed if i drive the last ten mins of my journey with the air con on it is less likely to trigger, but not always, and this is a pain.

I have also tried turning the sensors sensitivity down using the remote, out of 20 settings the default is 10, i have set it to 5 and it still does it, I havent attempted to turn them down under the dash yet however.

Could you shine some light on this issue please? I'm thinking of installing a 508d proximity sensor and turning the ultrasonics right down, if this is possible, but would prefer it to work as is if poss?

Thanks

Yes, what car is it. I assume you're writing from the UK, well so am I and I have one question, where are the sensors fitted? Top or bottom of the A pillar? I never install them.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Yeah I'm writing from the UK mate, its a Toyota Starlet Glanza V, and the sensors are fitted at the top of the A-pillar.

The alarm was fitted a few months before i got the car at a professional dealer.

Hope this helps :)

Thanks

Remove as in throw away the u/sonics and install a 508d.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Really? I'd say the alarm was under a year old(will confirm when i check the receipt) and the guy i bought it from said it was never a problem to him, but he did keep the car garaged and hardly ever drove it lol. Seems a bit pointless having them if they are crap?

I hear theres a control module for the U/s sensors in the dash I can adjust as well as on the fob? Should I try these or just go for the 508D?

Don't really wanna void my cat 1 status so could i turn the U/S down to 0 or 1 maybe? or would i still get trouble from them?

Thanks

I've never installed a 460 or 480 with ultrasonics, I've always used a 508d and it won't affect the certificate.
460 and 480 u/sonics plug directly into the unit, no physical adjustment.
The only physical adjustment is on the 509U add-on u/sonic.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Ah I see, well my insurance isn't affected by the alarm so its not too important anyway, well I don't exactly have anything that resembles a certificate but have a bit written out receipt with a sitcker and signature on I assume is similar to the certificate?

Basically I just wanna ensure the car is gonna be secure enough with just the microwave 508D item, or should I get any more sensors? Is it hard to fit and set up? Also if say i fitted the 508D would setting the ultrasonics down to 1 on the remote be beneficial or would it be better with them completely removed?

Is there a particular reason for them messing up and the a/c affecting them?

Sorry for all the questions but thanks a lot for your help, i've asked this questions on so many car forums i'm on but no real help.

How hard would it be to add some features such as boot pop and mirrors to fold in when the car is locked?And maybe remote start?
Theres only one aux port in use that I know of which is to hold the lock and unlock buttons for turbo timer.

What you have is simply a receipt, no insurance company/broker would accept that, get the installers to issue you with the proper embossed certificate.
Ref trunk pop, changing the linkage from mechanical to electronic isn't so difficult....for me, I've done it on an Almeira and a pair of Glanzas. If this was installed by a firm in Harrow that moved to Watford, I know them and wouldn't let them change a light bulb!
I've done mirror fold on them as well, some parts needed.
The idea is to remove the u/sonics completely, what's the point if you have a 508d giving you exterior warn away anyway?
Ref r/start, done that as well but I would have based it on a Clifford Con 650 MkII which has the add-on intellistart, manual transmission capability. The 460 is vastly inferior to the 650.
Where are you in the UK? I'm in North London.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I do apologise I do actually have a printed receipt stating what components were installed, as well as an installation certificate which has a header saying Armourauto or something along those lines, it has 3 copies stuck together(that type of paper which writes through onto the next, it is filled out by hand and has the car, alarm, and installation technicians details as well as a stamp area although this just has the company business label stuck onto it....but I assume thats a correct certificate? The company was called John Kleis car audio according to the certificate and receipt, I hope those aren't the ones you are talking about?

I'll probably leave the other items for now, I may add them in future, the boot popper especially.

I'm up in yorks unfortunately mate :(

P.S. I meant to say, where is a suitable place to buy the 508D from?

Cheers

John Kleis is a very long established and well regarded company.
Yes you do have the right form, incidentally called NCR paper for "no carbon required".
Kleis would sell you the 508d, but why don't you speak to them about the problem, they might have some answers.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Sorry for the triple posting, but also I have just been checking and both doors will trigger when opened, the boot doesn't seem to have its own specific trigger but it does trigger the u/s sensors.

Would this be okay once a microwave is installed or should i wire up the boot trigger, and how hard is this to do?

Finally the bonnet also isn't connected to a trigger I don't think, I'm not sure if this is necessary as I believe there is a battery back up siren, but I believe it may be more secure to install one, if so how is this done?

Thanks

Boo boo!! If it isn't connected to bonnet and boot it technically isn't a Cat I!
Take it up with them, they should have done both on installation, I wouldn't dream of not doing it.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Ah right I see, erm I haven't spoke to them as they are down in London where I bought the car and i'm up here, surely it would mean travelling down to them?

And really? Thats strange, why have they provided me with a certificate then if the alarm is not installed under Cat 1 regulations? I really can't spare the time to travel all the way back down to them, would it be worth installing those sensors myself? They may have been hidden behind the dash as the LED and valet button were?

The alarm is pre-wired (grey and blue) for bonnet and boot, why they didn't go to the boot light and fit a bonnet switch, they had to run cable through for the siren anyway.
Contact armour auto, tell them your problems and ask for a local dealer.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I don't think I have a boot light in my model tbh mate, it may trigger the interior light though if that makes it easier to install?

The bonnet one I could do myself though, id be a bit sceptical of drilling a hole in my slam panel though? :/
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Auto-Alarm-Pin-Switch-Door-Bonnet-Boot-Adjustable-/170747042650?pt=UK_Car_Accessories_Safety_Security&hash=item27c1511b5a#ht_500wt_949

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUTO-CAR-DOOR-BONNET-ALARM-PIN-SWITCH-ELECTRICAL-DP1-/280800688862?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item4161067ade#ht_597wt_698

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-CUT-2-SIZE-CAR-ALARM-VAN-DOOR-BONNET-PIN-SWITCH-/400265684792?pt=UK_Car_Accessories_Safety_Security&hash=item5d31b1a738#ht_5159wt_754

Would those be suitable switches?

As for the 508D, would it be triggered while my turbo timer is running as thats one thing I hadn't thought of?


I may just do as you say, but I prefer to be hands on and do things myself if possible. I assume i'd be charged quite a bit if I was put in contact with a local dealer to rectify the problem, even though it should have been fitted to a better standard in the first place?

Just had another look at my receipt ant certificate.

The receipt deffo says cat 1 on it so no idea why they havent wired these up.

The certificate says insurance category no. and the installed has filled in what looks like "T1" or "TI" in the box if thats any clue?

The weird thing is the customer satisfaction box hasnt been signed and i've got all 4 copies of the certificate for some reason?

I can't remember a boot light, if not they should have installed a switch.
Haven't a clue about the switches this site blocks fleabay.
Your last post, 4 copies and unsigned, WRONG someone is being lazy! Sorry I'm late been watching United get slaughtered, he he no you're guess is wrong I'm a Spurs fan, not City.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Right i've been having a little think, if its gonna cost me money to take it to a local dealer i think i will convert to the prox sensor, and rectify the boot and bonnet trigger myself, as apart from that, the alarm seems to be installed and function perfectly well, and I do have the certificate, if I ever need it for my insurers in future.

I just need a bit of info on what bonnet and boot switch to fit, if this requires any options setting on the alarm, and if i can fit one without drilling holes especially to the boot area.

Also, will the microwave sensor be affected by my current turbo timer add on with the alarm?

howie ll wrote:

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I can't remember a boot light, if not they should have installed a switch.
Haven't a clue about the switches this site blocks fleabay.
Your last post, 4 copies and unsigned, WRONG someone is being lazy! Sorry I'm late been watching United get slaughtered, he he no you're guess is wrong I'm a Spurs fan, not City.

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sorry i keep typing a post then forgetting to click post lol so I miss you posting.
Ah I see, how would I go about installing a switch then? Do I need to drill holes as I hate rust :/

Basically i just searched bonnet alarm switch are they all basically the same?

As for the certificate, is that bad then, its weird the company had a good rep but they seem to have been a bit lazy on mine, probably saw the guy coming as he was a bit clueless about the car itself when i bought it from him.
Would the certificate still be valid then? and does T1 or ti mean cat1?

If the turbo timer is an add on, probably not but I always rip them out and use the alarm to control it, in which case it won't matter.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

To your last post no idea, Halfords and car alarm specialists stock them and yes you will have to drill, spray everything with a moisture retardant afterwards.
Since you don't quite know what you're doing here's the trick.
Obtain some plasticine, measure a spot where you think your going to drill, place the plasticine to the switch plunger length at your guess then shut bonnet or hatch. If the plasticine is depressed by 1/4" or more, you're spot on.
Now can I go to bed please?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

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If the turbo timer is an add on, probably not but I always rip them out and use the alarm to control it, in which case it won't matter.

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Its with the alarm mate thats what i meant, you hold the lock and unlock buttons before turning off the ignition to set it?

howie ll wrote:

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To your last post no idea, Halfords and car alarm specialists stock them and yes you will have to drill, spray everything with a moisture retardant afterwards.
Since you don't quite know what you're doing here's the trick.
Obtain some plasticine, measure a spot where you think your going to drill, place the plasticine to the switch plunger length at your guess then shut bonnet or hatch. If the plasticine is depressed by 1/4" or more, you're spot on.
Now can I go to bed please?

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Ah i'll have a look see what I can find in halfords, is there a specific one I need?
And ah I see, moisture retardent? I shall look for that not heard of it before lol.
And ah brill thats a good idea, yeah i don't really know what i'm doing with alarms but have done pretty much everything on my all of my cars witout too much trouble, including some electrics.

Do you know if my certificate will be valid if i have all 4 copies?

Yeah course u can mate lol, if im being irritating jusst ignore my posts, I do apologise just your the only fountain of knowledge I have found in this area lol.

Thankyou :)

Then no problems with the turbo timer, the alarm shouldn't activate until the turbo timer shuts down.
Yes to validity.
14mm drill or hole cutter for the switches.
Go on line and look at Armour auto.com or ALL car audio/alarm stores and specialists keep a copy, even Halfords stores, page 535, PC5-34 for front and possibly rear.
PC5-53 for the rear hatch.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Ah brilliant, I wondered if maybe the ultrasonics were programmed not to arm until the timer had shut off and if this would need implementing with the 508D?

Sory, keep a copy of what? I shall look out for those, my local alarm installer is trying to source the 508D now for me but usually only deals with sigma etc.

A physical Armour catalogue though you can look it up on line.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Ah I see, is this for the 508d or the pin switches? I've never seen it in Halfords but I assume they will have it if i ask? As for online I had a look at the site but can't find the pin switches in the Autoleads department of their site?

I just did a little check, my alarm does indeed start to arm when the timer is running as if i sit inside while the timer is running and wave my arms, the alarm chirps to say it has been bypassed?
Although I have a feeling this should be okay, due to the fact the manual states if when the system is first armed one of the inputs is triggered, it will bypass that sensor until it stops triggering, then remonitor it, am I correct?

This is now getting rather boring and I have to make a living.....
General or Security catalogue page 595.
Thank you.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

wow sorry, i thought this was a help forum? Am I mistaken? :/

Yes but 3 pages on something that's already been done, come on why do you think no-one else has joined in?
Your problem is best solved by contacting the original installers with your issues and requests or a local dealer or Armour Auto themselves not on a could be should be basis with a third party like myself.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie II wrote:

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Yes but 3 pages on something that's already been done, come on why do you think no-one else has joined in?
Your problem is best solved by contacting the original installers with your issues and requests or a local dealer or Armour Auto themselves not on a could be should be basis with a third party like myself.

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I did search but nothing came up about the ultrasonic issue etc so I created the topic, you seemed genuinely helpful so I assumed you could answer my questions. As said I can't return to the original installers as it would not be viable both on a cost and distance basis, and I feel if I am able to complete tasks such as wiring in a turbo timer using a custom harness built from scratch on a previous car,  in addition to other tasks such as clutch replacement then I assumed I would be able to remedy this issue myself with a little info, and it would be more rewarding both cost and experience wise, after all this is why you all use this forum is it not?

I do thank you for your input so far and will let you know how I get on if you so wish, I respect that you do need to make a living but I though you would use this forum in your spare time, if however you would like some form of payment for the advice given I am perfectly happy to do that as you have given me a further understanding into the matter, I just feel that your last post was a bit rude in all fairness, but that is of course my opinion.

I don't want payment but I've already given you three remedies, one at least local.
If as you say there's no hood and trunk switch fitted, you should in the first case take this up first with John Kleis, as these are MANDATORY requirements for a Cat I certificate.
The fact that the completion signature wasn't there points to a problem with John Klies rather than anything sinister, call it lazy. I ALWAYS get it. If they can't help, your next recourse is Armour. If that doesn't work, the legal remedies but thus I can say no more.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Whats the big problem with me fixing the issue myself though, I don't know why but I always prefer to do things myself? If nothing else I find it interesting?

TBH I would rather not contact Kleis as I know all they will do is tell me to bring it down to them which as i've stated isn't really possible, if I go local they will probably charge me through the roof for something I could do myself in an hour or two, and I could take extra care to ensure the switch is placed how I want it and the hole is treated for rust prevention etc? For example I was thinking about mounting the boot pin switch onto my rear light plastic base(the black plastic where the bolts go through to mount the light to to car chassis, not the lense) and then run a ground wire from the chassis itself, as this would remove the need to drill a hole, if the switch is triggered by the boot in that area that is.

Sorry if you don't agree with this but I don't see whats the big problem, if you think by the questions i am asking i'm not up to the job I just like to be thorough thats all, I was gonna ask if with the 460XV and the 508d plugged into the mux port will the warn away chirp and full alarm be set as default or will i need to go into the advanced menus....but if you don't want to answer thats fine...