door locks on 98 legacy outback

So I need some assistance again. A long time ago I did a remote start w/ keyless entry on my buddy's 98 Legacy outback. When I got under the dash I found a horrible rats nest of what appeared to be an aftermarket added factory keyless entry module. I have since learned that I'm not so sure it was aftermarket added, and it may have just been a complete factory rats nest (have seen the same thing in a few other subaru's around that year). It was just really odd because the module was loosely ziptied up and was mostly hanging down in the footwell.

So anyways, at the time I figured I would clean up his underdash and disconnected the module and threw it in the trash. I then went through and did the rest of the starter/keyless with a lot less rats nest and loose modules. However after the install we noticed only his driver side front door wasn't unlocking. We chaulked it up to a bad actuator since he had just picked the car up and couldn't remember if it was ever working or not.

Well fast forward to a week or so ago. I did another remote starter in a 98 Legacy and found the same rats nest keyless entry module. I did the same thing (unconnected it and moved it to the side) and after the install we found the exact same thing with the driver side door actuator... which I knew for sure it was working prior. So I plugged the module back and and viola it was working again... but of course I still had this nasty rats nest module that did not seem to really fit nicely anywhere.

Ok, enough background, onto the real question at hand. My buddy's factory module is long gone so I was trying to see if anyone knew if there was a way (hopefully without going into the door with a 5-wire configuration) to possibly jumper a couple wires or work some magic to get the driver side door lock working again. It makes no sense to me that every other door lock works fine with the module disconnected and only the driver side front door does not lock/unlock.

Any and all help is appreciated. I know I could always go into the door with a 5-wire setup but I would prefer to find a different way that I can possible incorporate into my future installs that have that big, nasty, rats nest factory module.

Thanks guys!

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Are talking about this door lock module?

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Soldering is fun!

No, from what I have read, this one is a Code Alarm factory style module... and may even be an alarm module instead of just keyless entry. Its roughly 8" long by 6" wide and 1-2" thick... and it does not bolt in anywhere, it literally has no good place to put it and just zipties under the dash in hopes of not falling out. One the 2nd one I did, I even tried moving some harnesses around to stuff it up out of the way but its just too damn big.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

OK, sounds like an aftermarket unit.  I've only done a few of these Outbacks ( 1997 - 1999 ) and all have had this style Factory unit shown in the photo.

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Soldering is fun!

Well it looked aftermarket as far as the mounting was (zip ties) but it was 100% a factory connector, no hardwired connections or anything. I believe it may be a factory alarm. I have the 2nd one coming back today to add some things so I'll try to get a picture of it tonight.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Ok so maybe I exaggerated a little on the size, but here is the unit that he had in there:
Here

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

I seem to remember doing some grey import Imprezas in the late 90s with "factory" KE and the module was slightly smaller than Kreg's photo, but also a right rat's nest with believe it or not the antenna in the driver's door.
In our cases I 5 wired the motor wires, you might try that Kenny.
Every time I've come across a grey import from R type Hondas (00-05 the nice hot one, never sold in the US, tried to battle it out with the Cossie Focus and VW Golf VR6 but not as good) to twin turbo Supras, the Japanese wiring has been poor, scotchlocks etc, grounds = bare wires under bolt heads. The OEM wiring is good but I get cars from all over Europe, the only aftermarket wiring that's any good comes from North America, the UK, believe it or not Russia (think Canadians with a funny accent) and Israel.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

i may see if the driver side actuator wires come through the door directly and if so I can hopefully 5 wire it right in the driver kick. If not then into the door I go. If I don't diode isolate the 2 wires then that should also activate the actuator with the switch correct? I think I'm thinking of it right but I want to make sure.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

I just went through this also. The person bought this car used and the drivers door actuator wasn't working. I think it has to do with the factory keyless. The factory keyless according to the internet had drivers door priority unlocking. I believe the factory unit must have had the relay for drivers door priority built into it. When it is unplugged and removed you loose your unlock motor wire. What i did to fix this car was i jumped a wire from the unlock motor wire located in that picture above(though the doorlock module in the 98 i was working on had alot less wires). I tested for a wire that went positive when I hit unlock and sat at ground when nothing was pressed. That wire jumped into the drivers kick panel. In the kick panel there is a hole with alot of harnesses tucked into it. There was a 2 pin harness, Those are your motor wires. One is your lock the other is your unlock. I tested to see which one was the lock wire by pressing lock and testing for positive. The other was the unlock wire. I sniped it and added my jumper wire to the wire going out to the door. Presto, the doorlocks worked. Of course I had the door panel off also. That helped me to find the 2 pin plug in the kick panel because I already saw the actuators motor wire colors in the door.

oh and the factory door lock module is to the left of the steering wheel facing you, plug facing the floor. You can't miss it. It has your white and WHITE/ red negative doorlock wires from the door panel switches.

Yea, I thought I remembered seeing the motor wires in the door. Are you sure they were just positive pulse and not reverse polarity? The picture above is nothing like the one that is in this car. I had a link posted but apparently its not working anymore. I will probably just 5 wire the actuator wires in the driver's kick panel to make it work.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

you are right they are five wire rest at ground, but you don't need to use relays. I was all set to use relays also, I even had an actuator with me to mount. The factory door lock module is like less then 3 feet away and already is doing all the work for you. When I mention Positive, thats just for testing purposes to see which wire is the motor wires. I think one was RED / green and maybe the other was blue/something.... Once you find the motor wires at the door lock module you tap into the unlock motor wire and jump it down to the kickpanel. Then I cut the actuators motor wire and connected the jumper to the wire heading into the door. You don't have to do anything to the Lock motor wire. Its already still connected to the door lock module. Like I mentioned before, I think the drivers door priority unlock went through the keyless module and unplugging it(wherever it was located) looses connection between the drivers door actuator and the door lock module on the unlock motor wire only.

I'll give it a shot. But I don't think the lock was working either. I'll test everything out and see if it works. Not quite sure when I'm going to get to it though... I'm getting pretty busy with the bitter cold that's hit us here in NY.. lol

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Oh don't you start Kenny, I just went out to a 95 3 series BMW that supposedly had a dealer fit alarm and it had failed (Italian POS) taking out the fuel pump.
Well it certainly wasn't dealer installed and 2 hours later (instead of 40 minutes) everything was removed and the car running again. Apart from scotch-locks, they were also using blue butt connectors in the engine bay yes that was the real reason for the failure, meanwhile freezing rain turning to snow. So glad I'm effectively retired.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

haha... that is the exact reason I got out of this as a job and stick to it as a hobby now. If I get a car like that I feel no remorse in saying "No way in hell am I touching that." haha. Doing it as a hobby makes it much more enjoyable. Plus if I ever get to the point of being burned out for the season I can simply say no more. I doubt I'll get to that point with how many I do at the moment, but its always an option.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Exactly my attitude except the state pension doesn't keep me in cigs, women and HD/Tivo style satellite TV!

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Well if one of the motor wires is an open connection, the lock or unlock won't work. Remember how door lock actuators work, Both legs rest at ground. Then one leg gets positive and the other stays at ground as a result the actuator moves one way and that leg returns back to ground and the actuator sits still. Then to get it to move in the opposite direction the opposite leg gets positive and the other leg stays at ground and the actuator moves the opposite direction.
    So, The fact that one of the door lock wires is an open connection, the actuator isn't getting ground to lock or positive to unlock. Therefore the actuator won't move in either direction.
    Oh, and another thing is, when testing and you press lock, you will find you have positive on both wires. The Positive is actually crossing over the motor coil and outputting on the wire that is supposed to be on ground. It confused me, I had to cut the wires going to the actuator in the door to isolate my meter. The actuator wires run across the bottom left hole in the drivers door. Or you can test at the drivers kick panel by unclipping the 2 pin plug and testing from the car side of the plug.
      I'm in NY also and its FREEZING here with the wind chill. I did a 07 Elantra yesterday outside at the person's job, and my feet were freezing. Tricky door locks, but it worked on the first shot. Thank God! LOL

I uploaded a copy of the service manual to this site. The door lock wiring diagram is on page 37. Just goto the download section on this website and search "outback"